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Found 14 results

  1. Valentinik

    Valentinik's Duratec Build

    Yesterday i went over to westfield and placed an order for a kit. I've decided to go for an FW body, a couple of the other things i ordered was wide track front suspension, chassis provision for a full cage, quick rack and westfield complete alumium upright,hubs and calipers. Im going to be using a 2L duratec from an ST150 fiesta with an Mk3 mx5 gearbox, westfield don't offer a chassis for this engine/gearbox setup so I'm going to have to fabricate the gearbox mount myself. Although they use the mx5 gearbox and diff in a chassis, a few of the guys there reassure me the chassis is nowhere near the same as the one for mounting a duratec so its up to me to make it work. The kit will be ready for collection around the beginning of february but I'm told il get a definite date this week. So until then, il be working on the engine and gearbox. A few pictures of what i've done so far: Mx5 Box mounted to engine : Engine started to be stripped for cleaning, painting and a little bit of modification. The oil filter will be moved by using a filter relocation kit, and the st150 sump will be replaced with the mx5 item. The cam cover will be removed and power coated, and the point which the fiesta engine mount will be removed on the miller to make it look as tidy as possible. GSXR1000 itbs stripped and parts not needed removed: How they stand now, i just need to fill the holes left from the secondary butterflies and injector ports, as i won't be using these. I just need to make up some spacers from some 12mm aluminium bar on the lathe, to space them to suit the duratecs port spacing. If anyone can see any mistakes/oversights i ever make, please feel free to comment. I am open to criticism, all opinions are welcome. Mike
  2. Hi, I have a leak on my hydraulic clutch and not sure what could be the source, I guess could be the nipple got loosen and then draining would be ok or worst case that the seals are gone and need replacement. My question is what is the best way to tackle it, as the bellhousing is hidden under the cowl?. I thought in propshaft out and the gearbox and get access keeping the engine in place or propshaft out and move the engine forwards and get access to the bellhousing from the engine bay? Please let me know your thoughts, I think that this is something that for sure somebody has gone through already. Thanks a lot. Kind regards.
  3. Hi all, Selling my beloved high specification Duratec-engined Westfield as my wife is having a baby - full details and photos are as follows: https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/westfield/other-models/westfield-duratec-203bhp-fw-2008/7447993 Many thanks, Rob
  4. Hello all, I am gauging interest with the intent to sell my much loved Westfield Sport with the FW body kit. It’s a 57 plate factory built Westfield which pretty much every factory upgrade on it. My only reason for sale is I dont drive the car enough and my other car is a Golf R which is just quick and a bit more practical, but definitely not as much fun!! The car has an MOT valid until 20th September 2017, and two new tires were added on 15th Sept 2016 at the mileage of 7302. The current mileage of the car is 8100 miles. The engine is a 2.0 litre Ford Duratec has been upgraded and the final components are listed below. The work was carried out by AMS on 13th July 2016 and custom mapped by Track n Road on 28th November 2016 resulting in an impressive 220.3 BHP and 154.6 lb/ft (I have the print out of the dyno chart for proof) The engine now revs upto 8500rpm and the car tachometer has been changed to a 10k gauge. Additional VDO oil temperature gauge and voltmeter gauges have been added. Ultimate performance 200 camshafts Wossner 12.5:1 High Compression Forged Piston K1 Forged Conrods ARP Rod bolts KMS MP25 ECU KMS EUGO Controller KMS Inlet Manifold KMS Throttle bodies 4-2-1 Exhaust Additionally the engine has a Raceline low profile wet sump and a Raceline front engine cover in matt black I have added in a bigger radiator to help keep the engine cool on those summer days, its a full stainless steel 55mm core radiator by Coolmax. The drivetrain consists of the following components: 5 speed manual gearbox, I think its an MT75 (not 100% sure) Lightweight Billet flywheel ARP Flywheel bolts AP Racing clutch The other factory upgrades include: Limited Slip Differential Front anti roll bar and the wide track wishbones. Rear anti roll bar Heater kit Contoured dash ProRace 1.2 wheels with 205/50 R15 tyres. Front brakes to 4 pot calipers Heated front screen Leather touring seats The car also has the factory wet weather gear which includes the doors and roof, additionally I have the Perspex side windshields which are great. Also there is a tonneau which has a zip down the middle, and finally I purchased an outdoor full car cover which is a StormForce plus with extra security and fixing straps at a cost of £230.. In the spirit of honesty and to save you time or uncertainty there are a couple of things that need doing on the car that I haven’t got around to do and don’t plan to do before selling, this has been reflected in the price. The tracking needs doing (Typically costs £50-80) There is a small crack in the windscreen, however it has passed 2 MOTs like it so not a problem but wanted to call it out. Based on the spec of the car, the upgrades and the performance, I'm taking into consideration the above I'm looking for £17,000, the car will be available from July but this is open to negotiation.
  5. M6 WSC

    Problems starting engine

    Hi All, I've got an issue with my Westie that I hope someone can shed some light on. Recently when I go to start the car, nothing happens... I'll explain. 1. Turn key on 2. Wiggle immobilizer fob next to wire, can hear fuel pumps running 3. Press the start-stop button, and it just makes a 'click' and the starter motor does nothing. (The click seems to come from around the induction side of the duratec) However, 1 time in 20 or so, it starts fine! Things I've checked already: 1. Battery - fully charged 2. Starter motor - works fine during the time when it actually starts 3. Fuel pumps - Working 4. Immobiliser - Pretty sure the fob + wire contact is working fine. 5. Same issue whether it's a hot or cold start Any thoughts? Many thanks as always, Rob
  6. Raceline wet sump for a 2000cc duratec engine Incredibly rare to find used. Taken from a speed series car being upgraded to dry sump. Photos show cleanliness of sump after oil drained only no internal cleaning done. Includes dip stick kit New cost £504 inc VAT £350.00 + postage although collection preferred Can be taken to stonleigh sun or mon or delivery can be arranged along M1 M25 corridor from Northampton to Swanley
  7. Scottc88

    Webcon alpha throttle bodies

    Selling my alpha webcon throttle bodies off my 2006 2.0 Duratec good condition! Car was set up by Troy at NMS with these on last year 181 hp from standard engine. Includes titan inlet mani pico injectors 260cc filter and back plate linkage and throttle cable brand new TPS ready to bolt on and go £1200 new from burton .. £600 plus delivery
  8. DTHIRLWALL

    Duratec 2.5 on 48/50 Carbs

    Hi All Building a 2014 2.5 4i Duratec but must use 48/50 DCOE Weber’s for class rules. Been advised to use 2.0/2.3 head as the ports are way too big on the 2.5 head for carbs. Will be using quality rods and pistons but keeping the std crank. Any one done this or similar?
  9. Last week I bought a Westfield with a 2.0 Duratec engine. This car was factory build in 2009. The previous owner barely drove it and currenlty it has 14300 km (8885 miles) and always stored it inside. So I can say that it's an almost new car. But I have the feeling that it is running way too rich: I have a very high fuel consumption, the car easily stalls and when I'm driving it doesn't feel like a 2.0 Duratec. There is also a lot of backfire in the exhaust, even in the lower rpm-band 2000-3500 I searched here on the forum and it seems that I'm not the only one with this problem: http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/75321-duratec-owners/ http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/86191-anyone-with-kms-duratec/ OP's of the above topics also have a KMS ecu which was mapped in the Westfield factory and our cars are from the same period (2008-2010). There is nothing wrong with KMS. Those are solid ecu's but I think something went wrong with the map. Here are a few pictures: I removed the sparks; Current brand is Champion S9YCC but I'm going to replace them with Autolite XP104 As you can see, sparks are very back/oily. I also found the location of the ECU (above the passenger's feet) It's a KMS MP25 http://kms.vankronenburg.nl/nl/producten/kms-ecus/mp25-management-ecu/ I was already able to connect my laptop with the ecu and download the map. The software can be donwloaded for free from the manufacturer's website. On the left of the ecu there is serial connection (you can hardly see it on the picture) and with a serial to USB cable I was able to make a connection. Gonna take a look at the map. I'm not an expert so I don't know if I can see something. I'm def. not going to change anything
  10. Hello All, I'm David, I live in Belgium and since last week I have a Westfield with a 2.0 Ford Duratec engine and KMS ecu. The car was factory assembled in 2009 and I'm the 2nd owner. The previous owner turned 75 and it became too difficult for him to get in/out of the car. So he decided to sell it. He now has a Morgan Aero. I think that's an acceptable replacement The previous owner barely drove it, at the moment the car has 14300km (8886 miles) and always stored it inside. So I can say it's a barely new car. But at the moment I'm not happy about the Duratec engine: It seems that the car runs much too rich. I have exactly the same as these guys had, It seems that a few (or most?) Duratecs from around 2009-2011 left the factory without a decent map: (I'll open a separate topic about that shortly) http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/86191-anyone-with-kms-duratec/ http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/75321-duratec-owners/ I added some pictures but I don't like them very much because it was rainy. Will post more and better pictures on a sunny day... hopefully soon. And hopefully soon also happy about the Duratec
  11. So as you can tell from the title, yesterday did not end well... I've had my SEight for 6 months now and in that time have uprated the cooling system, sorted the brakes, fitted new wheels and have done a basic service - oil, filters etc. Not done anything on the engine apart from that. However while cruising home after a great day at Bedford Autodrome, the old V8 punched a hole in the side of the block, spitting lumps of metal on to the road. Presumably some sort of con rod failure - the RAC man suggested possible blocked or oil starved con rod bearing. - Is it worthwhile or even possible to repair the damaged block and rebuild the bottom end? - If not, is it worth sourcing a new block and rebuilding the engine using my existing parts? - Are the cylinder heads in my car completely standard, or uprated in the Westfield builds? How can I tell? - Could I find a fully build engine and fit the cylinder heads etc from my existing engine? - Where's the best place to find spares / whole engines? I do love the drama and performance of the V8 but more modern engines could 'add lightness' whilst providing a similar power output. As another option, how complicated would it be to replace it with a 2.0L Duratec for example, but keep the existing LT77 5-speed gearbox? Anyway, I don't have the work space or time for a long term perfect rebuild project, I would just like to get it back on the road as soon as possible, hence coming here for some advice! This is my first kit car so go easy on me, I have much to learn and any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Oscar
  12. Widebodied Westfield Sport 2000 Duratec. Built by me in 2006 as a modular build using all new parts supplied by the Westfield factory. In 2010 I had the standard Webber ECU removed and a better re-mapable Omex 600 installed along with a custom re-packable Techcraft exhaust, oil catch tank and a softbitsforsevens half hood. Having I built it all the servicing, MOT’s and upgrades have been handled by the well respected Interpro race and rally prep in Bristol. (A huge file of receipts is available for anyone interested in looking through.) For the last 18 months I’ve just been too busy to really use the car as it deserves and last year covered just 900 miles in it. Sadly, I think it’s time I parted company with it. Currently at 10300 miles, 11 months MOT remaining and 6 months tax. SOLD Full Spec as follows:- Engine & Power: Westfield / Ford 2.0 - I4 DOHC, 16v, Duratec (201bhp with print out), with lightened flywheel, AP racing clutch, Raceline shallow baffled sump, Raceline side mounted oil filter (all factory standard), Jenvey throttle bodies, bespoke aluminium oil catch tank with gauge. Transmission: Mitchell Cotts MT75 - 5-speed gearbox (all syncromesh) with quick shift stick, connected to Ford 3.9:1 limited slip differential. (all factory standard) Engine / Ignition Management: Omex 600 ECU, with pipercross air filter. Techcraft Megaflow custom repackable exhaust. (also included a second “MOT/road” exhaust) Suspension & Wheels: All round fully independent double wishbones - Front anti roll bar, anti roll bar fitted to rear, all wishbones fitted with nylon bushes for improved handling. Wheels – ATS lightweight 15” alloys with Toyo R888 tyres Brake System: AP Racing master cylinder, front - AP Racing calipers with solid discs, rear - VW golf callipers with solid discs. Bodywork and Lights: Main body in chrome yellow, with yellow rear wheel arches (detachable) and yellow standard nose cone. Front cycle wings in chrome yellow. RAC roll bar with modified boot box. Interior and Dashboard: Interior and carpet colour - Black Seats - Black with yellow pipe trim with Westfield 4-point racing harness. Dash – Standard black dashboard with VDO gauges Heater / demister option fitted. Racetech quick release steering boss and MOMO professional race steering wheel. Wet Weather Equipment & cover: Standard factory issue side screens, with full tonneau cover - All in black. SoftbitsforSevens bespoke half hood with storage cover Bad points: I'd rather be upfront about any minor niggles than try and hide them so I've posted them here Crazing in gel coat layer around one of the retainer bolts on front left cycle wing and also adjacent to left rear wheel arch.
  13. Blue with chrome fittings. Everything you need for road/touring and track days. Garaged on trailer. Excellent Condition. Built by myself from Westfield Modular Kit. • 12 Months MOT • AP Racing Brakes • Limited Slip Diff. • Anti-Roll Bars Front and Back • RAC Roll Bar • Boot Box Lid • Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 Wheels (5 off) C/W Toyo R888 Tyres • 6” Sports Silencer • 4 point harnesses • Full weather gear. • Catch Tank with Level • Tonneau cover • Wind deflectors • Immobiliser • Suspension setup and mapping by Northampton Motorsport. • Hood Bag • Boot Top Bag • Second set of alloy wheels (5 off) with wet weather tyres. • 5 1/2” silencer with CAT (MOT) • Silencer wadding x 2 • CTEK Battery charger / conditioner. • Brian James Minno Max Trailer (2008) – as new (the galvanise is still shiny!) • Locking fuel storage box c/w 3 x 20 litre jerry cans • Hitch lock • wheel rack • wheel clamp • Garaged at all times. Call me on 07021558696 SOLD.
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