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I'd be more interested in the add-on's like if either of them had wide front-end or long-range tank etc. Personally I prefer the FW look of the back-end, but beauty is very much in the eye of the beholder.
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Yea, that might work, I'll let you know poss this weekend and I'll drop you a PM
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I have revised the finish date, bodywork has been ordered today and I'm being told that'll be with me at the end of August. So I am planning to be on the road in September.
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I hope so, did I read you got your AIM Strada direct for AIM Motorsport or was it from WF?
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I believe mine may be slightly different as I have a the kit car specific IVA add-on unit. Maybe this will make life a little easier, may it won't !
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I have one of these if that's helpful: http://www.flir.co.uk/flirone/ios-android/ Happy call round with it at some point....! Bob
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Only fuel if it's the same as mine, you get the oil pressure sender, that has a short fitted lead, with an extension cable. The speed sensor is a long single piece cable, and both of these go into the AIM Expansion unit, and are from what i can work out digital. The fuel is an analogy input and connected into the larger plug on the AIM dash, and this is the one most have had issues with.
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It's deff not a criticism, I'm just amazed at your fast progress Keep up the work rate and you will be on the road before you know it, and then you can come along to the group meetings to show off your beast Think your doing a cracking job, keep the pictures comming
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Simon at WF is going to get the correct sensors sent out to me. I need to order some shielded wire for the fuel, oil and speed sensors now.
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Aim mxs info thread
Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO replied to Steve (sdh2903)'s topic in Tech Talk
All I’d say is try and avoid analogue inputs. The aim dash doesn’t like them. edit: like is the wrong word, I meant requires patience and better wiring to work correctly - Today
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classic shape or FW
Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO replied to miller's topic in The Start Line
Personal taste is the main one. FW is more “modern” looking and ZK more “classic”. Who knows which one may be more desirable in future? Could go either way but currently they both seem to be holding their price well. Personally i’d look into what is the exact spec, condition and build quality of each as that’s more important. If they truly are the same other than body type, then it’s up to you which one floats your boat. -
The GAz damper you have does not match the dampers we produce for the rear. Ours are 14" open, although 13 is fine for the car. I could build you a pair of dampers with Shperical bearings... the price would be £90 each + VAT. I'd need to know the inner diameter of those bearings, to be be sure your top hat spacers fit. and the inner diameter of the spring. it looks 1.9" but its hard to estimate of a picture The challenge is....Realistically the dampers would not be compete until Wednesday and delivery would there for be thursday cutting it all a bit short!. I think you could probably talk nice to GAZ and drive to darkest essex . They should be able to rebuild them as you wait. I would say its stopped working due to some maching/ assembey swarth sticking in a valve. If there is no rebound its stuck in the piston. If it is both bump and rebound its likely to be something in the poppet valve in the adjuster. There is just one doubt !...the body is stamped 120 85 this is just a generic non vehicle specific damper which should be 12" open 8.5" closed. If these have been modified to 13" open by making the shaft 1" longer it is possible the base valve has taken a clout by the shaft going in to far. Usually this only destroys the compression damping but!
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Hi guys I posted a week ago that I was waiting delivery of my westfield a 2ltr black top wide body (still Waiting ) but to be fair the seller has kept me updated BUT he has now had a FW bodied same spec as the one I have bought and has said I can change to the FW if I prefer I was wondering if there is much difference in the cars or is it just down to shape, and personnel choice ? do the FW hold there price as well as the older shape just wonder as a newbie and my first westfield what the pros and cons are of the FW and siew thanks guys
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I have the standard Sierra calipers on the rear and use cheap and cheerful pagid pads. I have 4 pots on the front and basically have the rears turned off with a bias valve. If I do turn the rears on they are very easy to lock. So as above the rears do virtually nothing. Pads and general brake setup are such a personal choice that experiment until you find what you like. Also set ups vary hugely too. For example I have mine set up for a good bit of travel on the pedal whereas my friend has a nearly solid pedal on his car, which I hate.
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I must work quite quick ! TBH I haven't rushed anything just tried to work efficiently and not waste time over thinking items that were causing me issues too much. Apart from 2 evenings and half a day yesterday I have worked alone.
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My Zetec still has the torx blanking grub screw in. I'll speak to simon at WF today.
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Have to echo Monty's comment, and I though i did mine fast
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Firstly from Yorkshire Be nice to understand what else you are putting on the car and what you intend to use it for (brakes, ARB's, Diff etc.)? As many others have said we Love pictures, and from my own experience I'd recommend getting along to you local group meeting and introduces yourself. I found a great bunch of like minded people who have helped me along the way with my build.
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Still not booked this one, but if the weather forecast is still looking good and there are still places available, I'll probably book Wednesday or Thursday.
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TRACKDAY - Rockingham 5th July
Andrew replied to Howsafe Workwear and Safety Equipment's topic in Track Days
As Mole appears to have gone under ground.. .. 20th July Donny day is with RMA. https://www.rmatrackdays.com/Track-Days -
i have just wrapped a short section adjacent to the steering top UJ rather than the entire pipe, so hopefully that will protect the UJ without compromising the rest of the stuff in the bay. I'm going to try to get hold of one of those cheep infrared temp sensors gizmos going forward to have a look at things in a bit more depth Thanks to all for all contributions
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This has to be the fastest build I've ever seen, rolling chassis with engine in 10 days after collection
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I broke it, again.
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary replied to Jonathan.edwards's topic in The Start Line
Yup, untill such time as “complete” solution can be sorted out, I’d take it seriously more steady at slow speeds and when it comes to launching! Just remember, those sort of power levels on sticky, grippy tyres will keep hunting out the next weakest spot, you will get to a point where that’s the chassis and rear diff mounts. The modern cars, running 200 + bhp from the factory, have considerably different and much more beefed up rear chassis sections to the early Sierra i dependant cars, which in turn was more beefed up that the early Escort diff in WF cast housing independant cars.- 14 replies
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On my 250 the oil pressure sender was bolted to the engine already, might be worth looking over the engine. The speed sensor was in my AIM box, along with the expansion unit, and you then need the bracket supped by WF to mount this on the RH side front upright, so it picks up on the 4 mounting bolts.
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Aim mxs info thread
Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO replied to Steve (sdh2903)'s topic in Tech Talk
I used One of these cheap as chips and worked perfectly. For oil pressure I used a 5V digital one (bought off a mate) via my ECU and then through CAN so that I used less analogue inputs. The std VDO analogue sender was a bit flakey when not going to a VDO analogue sender.
