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Thank goodness for that!

Yes, fortunately the outer ring of connections that have the +12V input & ground connections were OK, it was the inner ring of connections that have the warning lights and analogue inputs that were shifted.

Wow, given how sensitive DASH2's are, or at least used to be, to miss-wiring, you've done well to escape damage to it!

I got my Dash back from Race Technologies this week - no fault found. I took apart the Westfield dash loom connector to the dash (didn't want to do it before because I was worried about breaking one or more of the tiny connections), and all the wires are shifted one connection to the left... i.e. what should be green (pin 13, indicators) is actually blue, what should be blue (pin 12, analogue input 2) is actually yellow/white, etc. As soon as I re-soldered all of my connections (since some of them needed the pull-up resistor moved) the dash seems to work fine... Now I can try to tidy up the wiring and then head to the hardware shop to get the little screws that I need to mount the front indicators properly...

Look very nice!

If you're interested, and read into the NACA duct design, (in the context of, getting air in without having external scoops), then you do tend to find that when pushed, they're not considered very good at supplying large airflow, or high pressure airflow. But are as expected, great at reducing drag, compared to a scoop. To work they require certain specifics of the air flow over the panel they're mounted in. For optimum performance, they need a thin boundary layer with, laminar flow over them. They will work really well with air intakes for something like throttle bodies on a Westfield, as you keep the low drag benefits, but overcome their natural air volume limitations, by having an intake behind them at low pressure, physically gulping air in. An IC is the other extreme, its a real restriction to airflow, so needs air forcing through it, much more. something that NACA ducts by design, are not suited for in the volumes needed for a decent size IC.

I suspect you could be right Tim. I’m looking at creating more of a “ramp” down to the IC, but purely as a means if increasing the fronts area, perpendicular to the direction of travel, that acts as the mouth of the scoop. It’s really just trying to get the greatest volume of air, in and through, the IC. I’ve looked at NACA type ducting in the past, but a number of issues always popped up. The efficiency of the duct is dependent on mathematical properties of its shape, but working back from something basic like the approx. cross section needed for (my) IC, leads to a duct bigger than the space on the nose! Unless the shape is truncated, but then efficiency is lost, so it needs to be bigger again…. NACA ducts we’re designed for certain applications, and seem to work best in certain positions on a body. I’m not convinced that near the front of the (Westfield) nose has the “right” sort of airflow over it, for the duct to operate efficiently.

They’ll be et19

Should add, sorry for your loss and condolences to his family. Heartily agree with your thoughts, health means everything.

Free for collection only from BR3 1RW. Complete original induction for 2.0l Ford Zetec Pictured when fitted to my car.

Really sorry for your loss mate.

@Rednop1. Ash consider them sold, I’ll take them please.

Thanks for the reply. I have custom valved Nitron's that I'd like to be able to keep using if I could. Yes please take a few photos of the brackets if you could. Thanks so much. dave

If I said yes, would you believe me? 🙂

Dads Westy sporting its new Mini lites

I don’t. I just googled it and it says it should be stamped on it… I will have a look when I pop up Dads

Great thread and you've got me thinking... I think I have a reasonable setup... Turbo, FMIC, and ducting but with an open filter I wonder if I can improve it. I have a bonnet cut out but believe from SBD's video's air will travel over it so now thinking about adding a scoop.

Is everyone ready. Is anyone going to try and camp/camper the night before?

Folkes used my roof in anger yesterday overnight and the windows of my doors have gone blue... Can't think what this could be other than dye coming out the roof, but this can't be the case - can it? I've rubbed it and washed it and it's not coming off I'm positive they weren't blued before

Thanks for that. I wasn't aware of the need for them to turn off/reduce brightness when the main lights are on. Just ordered a DRL controller 👍 it even has a welcome home setting.

That's a valid point, I have no preference or anyone on my doorstep so I will travel to Northampton Motorsport who will map DTA. 👍

Strictly speaking, they shouldn’t be on with dipped or main beam, unless they’re operating at reduced brightness, (like a sidelight mode). As full brightness DRL’s can be very dazzling at night for oncoming traffic. Where you take a feed from depends how you want to control them, if at all. And also whether using a commercial DRL controller.

Great, didn’t want to do it myself, without asking.

I've ordered a set of 5 3/4" LED headlight which have a DLR function. Has anyone fitted similar ones who could advise the best place to splice in a connection for the DLR. I guess all they need is a 12v after the ignition is turned on, followed by a 5a fuse?

That is seriously impressive stuff. Great write up and work