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  1. AndrewOBW


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  2. IanK (Bagpuss)

    IanK (Bagpuss)


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  3. Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO

    Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO


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  4. KugaWestie


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 17/09/19 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Bonnet now hinged. The hinges are only tack welded so need completing, then cleaning and painting. It’s taken me a few hours to sort it out as the bonnet front edge kept binding on the nose. I got there in the end though The panel gaps need some attention but at least it hinges
  2. 10 points
    Hello from Poland! I am a new Member of Your Community. I was reading WSCC forum from long time, but became a member of WSCC today , so here I try to introduce my Westfield : Bought it as a "started project" from Belgium last autumn/winter. The car was not touched from 2-3 years by previous owner, except of painting the fiberglass panels. I was not allowed to start enfgine after such a llong period, I would not try . So I had to take it "as is" . I got with a car a second spare engine (for sure to rebuild - this one is now in the car) , some parts, wishbones, tyeres, rims etc. Needed to take apart almost all , and put together again, some investigation what previous ovner had in mind instalig this or that , in that or other way etc. But, in the end, with rebuilded engine etc. I had a chance to take it on track few times and it is amazing how it drives comparing to regular, even track prepared cars, but of few hundered kilo weight more. It is also more demanding from driver (I had not driven RWD cars from almost 20 years and that was an old fiat with less than 50 horse power engine I think ) And demanding in terms of phisical fitnes (a lot of work for me in this area ) too. Here is some info and photos / video : Westfield SEiW in Aerorace version (I Think it was previous Belgium Cup car from their Westfield Cup Racing series), track only, not road legal. Chasis looks not touched, straight, no rust. Engine - freshly rebuild Zetec 2.0 Blacktop, head porting in hands of one of the best motosport engine builders here in Poland (huge increase in flow on flowbench !) Grzegorz Kuśmierz, some more aggresive camshafts catcams , Jenvey 45mm ITB . Tuned on road , with results about 200 hp and 200 Nm , max revs set conservatively to 7200 as I am learning the car, not competiting yet. 4-1 Exhaust, KMS Standalone ECU and KMS wiring, coil, lambda, etc, MT75 gearbox with quickshift (there was an additional gearbox-oil radiator, not sure if this MT75 gearbox really needs it ? for now I detached it as I am cotributing on trackdays with max 10-15 min sessions ), Sierra 3,92 diff (I think its LSD) . Not sure what the gear rations in this particular MT75 gearbox are, and from what car this gearbox is. Car is LHD, starter is on the right side, clutch line on the left side. Helix 5 paddle clutch 240mm, with Sachs sport clutch cover, std not lightened flywheel Rear wheels with tyres 240/570/13 , front 200/540/13 both Michelin s412 slick (used) , Compomotive CXR rims. Some Team Dynamics rims with intermediate and wet tyres Kumho , but only 175 to 215 width, I think it might be to narrow for rear, not sure about it. I think I will try to find a pair of 13x10 or 13x9 rims for rear, preferably CXR Compomotive . Not driven it on rainy day yet, but some day I will have to ;-/ (not looking forward for wet trackday ) Suspension is widetrack , nitron R1 shocks, Front stabilisator, springs rates - do not know (front red, rear black, but propably it tells nothing) I set geometry myself with strings according to values in Aerorace Manual (front little toe out, camber front 1,5-2deg ; rear toe little in, camber 0,5 -1 deg). I made an DIY corner weighting which shows rather ok cross weigth and 40:60 front to rear (I sit maximum rear and my weight is 100kg , so partialy propably that is why, also there is a huge fuel tank in rear, which I intend to change for some 20-25 liters cpacity or smaller sport tank. Total weight without driver , with oils, and 20-30 ltr of fuel is 590kg Here are some video records from last trackday Well , there was a lot of work to make it driveable, especially as I am not an engineer and work with car alone, fiirst time taking engine and transsmision out, putting freshly rebuild engine in, rearrangment of all fuel lines (precedeor made it in such waym that there was no fuel filter after high pressure fuel pump, so two injectors was 10% less efficient ---> knock and destruction to engine (the other one, its a pity , that engine had a set of burton power larger pistons and special rods, special camshafts etc. But hope to rebuild that engine too . Lots of wortk with setting pedals, seat, steering wheel for my size (still have tro rebuild a gas pedal in some way to make posibble brake bias adjuster to fit and not interfere with gas pedal). But, for the moment now I can eventually say that Westfield is alive , is in shape I am not ashamed to introduce to such a wide an experienced Westfield Owners Community! For now I have lot of learning and getting used to the car , and having fun with it drivig or just working with it in garage as there is a long list of thigs to do in winter time . I am happy there is such a wide Westfiield owners community, forum with so much info and advice. Kitcars are not popular here in Poland, so WSCC is mine basic source of knowledge on this car and whole subject. Regards to All ! Andrzej
  3. 6 points
  4. 6 points
    Watergate Bay, Cornwall, on Sunday 8th Sept. Hillclimb was hosted there this weekend gone, was an excellent event and a good opportunity for a club display. One of my favourite places ever 😍
  5. 5 points
    Such a beautiful morning to be out.
  6. 5 points
    Which kid did you just buy, and from where? Oh right.... the car! My bad. Nice car, looks a bit of a beast! Enjoy
  7. 5 points
    After 1 year and 11 days, I can finally post a picture of the Westy on the road!
  8. 4 points
    Annoyingly, and BMW are terrible for it, so many modern cars that are intended for the performance saloon/hatch/et al market segments have started to exhibit the same thing over the last few years. Stupid, stupid brakes, that are designed in such away that even relatively gentle pressure generates a disproportionately fierce initial bite; this in turn gives the impression of a car with much more “brakes” than it necessarily has, not that I’m saying the brakes aren’t necessarily good, just that on the whole, they’re not really that much better on than on their non-over servo’d, non-artificially manipulated competitors models. Its all just smoke and mirrors to make the driver think the brakes are better than they actually are. (PS, I’m talking about the regular braking setups, by the way, not physically upgraded versions, Carbon ceramic options, etc) Ive had the same thing, climb from my old five series with its razor sharp brakes into a Westfield with AP Race brakes and good pads, and initially, it feels softer and less bite, till you switch from having to delicately brush the pedal, like the beemer, to applying properly modulated force, at which point the tables turn completely!
  9. 4 points
    Obvious, but I will remark it here. Remember that you will never get more stopping power than locking the wheels. And to be honest, in a westfield you can lock even the stickiest of the slicks with 100% road brakes. So, as Adam says, in a car like this the questions are: How long will they last. (usually forever with decent pads and fluid... even with tiny no vented disks) And how will they feel. And as Adam says... better to have a rock solid pedal with very tiny movement, and locking by applying insane amount of force on them, than displacement with very little force required. Once you get used to it, is easier to modulate a range from 0 to 40kg of force requiered from your leg, than a 0 from 15 kg. (providing that you are fit for this leg workout... but even I can do it with lifetime ankle injures ).
  10. 4 points
    Well after a bit of toing and flowing, the mystery of the brake light switch has been solved. I spoke with WSC who confirmed that the brake light switch thread is not tapered (I didn’t think it was but I couldn’t see why the thread tightened up as I screwed it into the brass tee). They said that they don’t use gasket (PTFE) tape, and that the thread does tighten up as it is screwed in – indeed it certainly does, and following some leaning on my spanner I managed to screw it in until the copper washer was compressed between the switch and the brass tee. Also confirmed was that the flexi hose at the rear axle brass tee doesn’t need a washer as the taper seals at the base of the tee. I’m sure this is all common knowledge to those who have worked on this type of system before, but alas my experience doesn’t extend to this level of detail, and the ‘Build Guide’ is a little presumptuous in this area… I have rebuild the handbrake assembly using new parts from Moss where available. The chromed lever itself from the MG was in excellent condition so it just needed a little polishing prior to re-assembly. I suffered a bit of confusion whilst fitting the hand brake lever to the transmission tunnel. The ‘Build Guide’ prescribes fitting it ‘to the centre line of the two vertical flat bars welded to the chassis tunnel’. To add to the excitement, there is a large diameter hole in the tunnel side panelling which I naively assumed would assist in locating the lever into the correct position… Three bolt holes later and I realised this was not the case and the large diameter hole is a red herring! I then drilled three more (correctly positioned) holes, through the vertical bars this time (technically one is a flat plate rather than a bar) and offered up the hand brake lever assembly. I extended the large diameter hole to enable un-hindered operation of the lever. Some grommets in my spares box now reside in my three mis-drilled holes, the forward one of which I could most likely use for the hand brake switch wiring to pass through. Next job was to fit the hydraulic pipes, and I have identified my least enjoyable job! I used an old temperature gauge capillary to map out the pipe runs and bend radii, then transferred the shapes to the pipes supplied in the kit – not at all easy without a lot of prior practice. Even when I thought they were bent just right (I used a pipe bender), they in fact were not and required further tweaking! I reckon that the pipes shown in the ‘Build Guide’ are a little more generous in length than those now supplied (although the lengths in the guide do match up), as I felt that creativity was required in some instances to make them fit neatly. Anyway, the pipes are now all in place and just need securing with the supplied p-clips and with fuel hose/ tie wraps at the axle end. The brake light switch will sit a little higher than shown in this photo (once the pipes have been secured), but its mounting bolt will still pass through the master cylinder vertical mounting plate (not through the master cylinder itself(!) but through the vertical chassis plate they are bolted to in the foot well!). Also of note is that I have taken advice from this forum and run the pipe to the back of the car along the top of the off-side bottom chassis rail. Thought I would sign off with a photo of a couple of very nice Lotus 15s from Goodwood Revival. I must have counted about seven 15s there in total, no Elevens though!
  11. 4 points
    Had a couple of hours on the car today, front ARB is sorted and various bits spanner checked. I haven't got a bolt head drilling jig and didn't fancy the stress of snapping all of my small drill bits, so used these funky little tabs. You bend them up to grip the bolt head (like the front disc tabs on old Fords), then they can be lockwired to each other or something else. The loosening problem I had was because the bolts aren't done up super tight - if I do then the ARB almost locks out. Ta-daa! Not going anywhere now. Deliberately left one tab on each bolt unscathed so I have a second shot if really necessary, doubt it will be but just in case... Also inspected the tyres, thought they would be a lot more worn than this given the abuse they had at Oulton last week! It's also astonishing how much grip they offer considering how little actual rubber they put in contact with the road - the footprint of the tyre is a smidge under 130mm, of which only around 70mm touches the floor at any one time due to the grooves! Looking to book another track day soon to get the handling finally nailed down, potentially next week at Oulton again... I really enjoyed the last one and haven't got the beans at the moment for a long trip, so we'll see.
  12. 4 points
    Its the car, she calls to me.
  13. 4 points
    Sounds like you'll fit right in Chris!
  14. 3 points
    Gearbox and exhaust mount is Bosal 255 282
  15. 3 points
    You're probably bored of my pictures of me in Avon gorge. But on the off chance you're not, heres me early Sunday morning. Up through burrington combe (bit slippy) and down through the gorge. Was too much fun and went back up again. Hardly any traffic. Gurt mint drive mind!
  16. 3 points
    On the drive after a productive weekend... Only owned her 3 weeks and the spanners are already out! Carbs rebalanced, earth leak tracked down and temporarily fixed, some tidying of wiring (work in progress), drivers seat runner modified to help me with legroom (being freakishly tall!) and fitted a new 55mm Coolex radiator (on new rubber bobbins with a modified fan mount) which has dropped water temps nicely. Hopefully get some shots out and about if this weather holds!
  17. 3 points
    Lammermuir Hills, Scottish Borders today. With my front shocks leaking at 25k miles, and rears pretty rough, I contacted Tony aka Damperman and got new Spax fronts and rears spring/damper units. The old springs were 300lb fronts and 170lb rears, but replaced with 340lb fronts and 160-210lb progressive rears. Many thanks to Tony for his help and advice. .
  18. 3 points
    I used an angle grinder to slit the metal sheeth then prized it open to remove. Just don’t cut too deep or you will damage the pipe. I used the same hose for both supply and return with no issues so far but I’m still in build so it’s not had many runs. I don’t have a better picture at the moment. Of it running under the intake but can get one tomorrow if you need. The clutch line I ran over the top of my gearbox with p-clips this was all done prior to install as part of my remote bleed. I’m sure others will be along to let you know how they secured theirs. may be worth mentioning the S2000 engine in the title though.
  19. 3 points
    Three of us Essex Boyz made the journey to deepest Norfolk. Light rain in the morning and dried out nicely for the afternoon.
  20. 3 points
    All ideas gratefully received! Made a bit of progress on it today, went better/quicker than anticipated really. That said, I lost count of how many times I fitted, checked, removed, tweaked, re-fitted. Added some more fixings to the previous panel along the way to help stabilise it and formed the next panel. Only a few fixings in so far, but it looks promising. I'm contemplating a minor mod to the panels above/around the suspension where they meet under the wheel arch (when it's fitted). Thinking I might make a bigger cutout to give better access to the damper for ride height adjustments mainly, then make an infill piece that bridges across both panels. Need to double check where the chassis tubes are first, but it'll be worth doing if there is room I think. I've been concentrating on getting the top curves as accurate as I can so there's still some final cutting/trimming to do down at the bottom, but that's simple and best done last anyway. The join line between the two panels came out pretty well after some careful massaging of the metal. I think probably the simple solution of a strip welded onto the back on one part for stability and just rely on getting the shape right is the way to go. It's only a short section where it'll be 'free', so I think that will work. I can always add rivets later if need be. Hard to tell from this picture, but the joint is almost perfect even without support, although I do expect it to wander about a bit as I fix more of the panel down. I did design and print a small test piece for jointing but I'm just not confident it would be robust enough without making it pretty bulky. And the view looking forward. The return forms the edge of the engine bay aperture and will be riveted to the tube underneath. Pretty happy with how this is turning out so far. Just hope I can repeat this on the other side. Once this panel is fully fixed and fettled, I reckon it'll be time to decide the final location for the arch, which I'm looking forward to as it'll mean I can then get a real idea of how it's going to look when completed.
  21. 3 points
    Up in the hills between Durham and Cumbria
  22. 3 points
    Lunchtime run along the South coast - car needs a clean after yesterday’s track day at Castle Combe.
  23. 3 points
    Beautiful morning to be out.
  24. 2 points
    As this is the last sprint weekend of the season I was hoping that a lot of us can make an effort to can eat/drink in the bar on Saturday night and make it a great end. Several of us will be in there Friday night as well but it would be good to have a lot of us having a good natter celebrating the events we have taken part in, who did what and what we could have done better etc Hope to see a good turnout 😀
  25. 2 points
    Thanks Mr Pid. In fact its going so well that I have booked and paid for my IVA. All set for 8th Nov 2019. Getting worried now. This is what Wanda looks like now.
  26. 2 points
    ITBs & ME221 ecu My car had the bulky oem ford intake with a open air filter. It was running on a simplified oem wiring loom, but the quality of the installation was pretty poor. You could see many unprotected weldings and conections, the OBD diagnostic port did not work, dozens of unnecessary cables, broken insulation...... After looking at the options out there (OMEX, Jenvey, ETC) I went for DanST Engineering setup. It came with ZX10R Throttle bodies 44mm, ME221 ECU and plug&play loom. I went with the 90mm length trumpets as recommended by Dan. Hopefully this will give the engine a few more hp and better response. Clear up the engine bay and have a neater wiring in the car. WIN-WIN! So first thing is to remove the rubbish ford bits Next was to attach the kawasaki ITBs to the custom intake with the rubber hoses Bolt it all to the engine And to finish the job, the foam filter! Voila! One more job finished
  27. 2 points
    Done! Remembered I have a few other small jobs to do on the car, but should have time...
  28. 2 points
    Booked this: https://www.msvtrackdays.com/car/calendar/2019/sept/25-op/ @maurici and @CosKev are there too
  29. 2 points
    As a new owner, I had very similar thoughts on the standard M16 non vented brakes on my Westfield. It seemed to be lacking stopping power Vs my track prepped BMW Mini (or even my barge of a daily). However, I changed my mind last weekend after I had to properly stand on the anchors from speed (legal if course!) due to some old dear not spotting my bright yellow car! The absence of a servo does mean they behave very differently from everyones anesthetised daily car. Whether they'll fade on track I'm yet to find out, but press them hard enough and you can be hanging from the harnesses... 😀
  30. 2 points
    Morris, Might be worth making a bracket to fit the handbrake switch while you have access. You’ll also need to modify the wiring loom to add the reverse light switch Jon
  31. 2 points
    Mine passed with no issues bare other than a small section of convolute where I cable tied it to the wishbone as in @IanK (Bagpuss)'s suggestion on my thread here. I only used a couple of inches of convolute on each side. Possibly could have gotten away without it as they didn't touch anything when going lock to lock but decided not to risk it.
  32. 2 points
    Brad and Diane will be there. As it involves a meal, I'll see if it qualifies as a 'date night'.
  33. 2 points
    A video from the track evening at Teesside Auto drome on Monday night. It was fully subscribed.. 35 cars I think, with 15 on track at any one time. A busy one. Positives were, weather was perfect, I don't think there were any red flags, and it only cost £40. Negatives.. very bumpy in places.. and every time I went out I seemed to find at least one car without mirrors! Last session, Sun was setting, light a bit low for the gopro.. Trying to keep up with an MNR Mazda turbo. 😎
  34. 2 points
    It amazes me how I can spend a few hours on this thing and it looks no different.... Anyhoo, drilled a bunch of holes in the panel and finished off the shaping/trimming, then offered up the wheel arch. This is with the wheel at ride height and taken form a low angle. Arch not completely accurately placed, but close. Looks like it might benefit from a bit of a trim to better match the radius of the wheel/tyre combination actually as the front and rear 'corners' look to be intruding a bit. Can't really lower the arch relative to the wheel from here or it'll likely hit at full bump. This is a view from a bit higher. And finally from above. You can probably see I've had to put a packing piece between arch and body at the bottom by the blue tape - figured I be needing to do something about this as the Westy tub isn't flat of course, and this is. It's not as bad as I thought it might be in the end, the rear 1/3 of the arch is pretty much spot on. Time to get the gelcoat, polyester resin and glass matting out I suppose. I'll leave a bit of the original flange in place for strength I think. No doubt it'll end up a bit heavy, but the lightweight option on this car left the building long ago... Pretty happy with how it looks and they match the Westy front arches I'm using too. Shame about the modified knock-off Caterham nose, but no matter - it isn't too obviously differently styled I don't think and the added width really changes the appearance anyway.
  35. 2 points
    My personal opinion is that you won’t need more than 195s with 200bhp. Dont worry about the wet either, traction control not required, westfields are fine with some confidence and practice. Even Nankang AR1s work in the wet if you drive hard and get some heat in them (as @AdamR showed me)
  36. 2 points
    Yeah I have a special bit of equipment added in to my setup just for that - my right foot 🤣
  37. 2 points
    Today on the BBC.. "Apple Irish tax case appeal heard by EU court" An EU court is hearing appeals against a decision to order Ireland to recover £11.5bn of unpaid taxes from Apple. In 2016, the European Commission found an agreement between Dublin and the technology giant was against EU law. It said the Irish government allowed Apple to attribute nearly all its EU sales earnings to an Irish head office that existed only on paper, thereby avoiding paying tax on EU revenues. (The EU estimated that Apple's effective tax rate was .005% ) Why socialists in this country want to campaign to remain in this Capitalist cartel is beyond me. The real reason for austerity, and the maths is inarguable, is: People are being paid less than it costs to live, so, instead of collecting tax, even from full time workers, the government is subsidising them, through benefits. Corporations are using the techniques described above to avoid paying tax, So, few people are net taxpayers, few if any corporations are net taxpayers, the government's only way to do the stuff it needs to do is borrow money, and we go deeper and deeper into the abyss.
  38. 2 points
    Take ZERO notice of the PM of Luxembourg, one country that stands out as being at the heart of one of Europe's biggest economic issues. How? You ask.... Amazon, Skype, iTunes, Paypal and the like set up HQ's there to take advantage of what can only be described as devious but legal means of paying little or no corporation tax in the countries that you actually do business, and an effective rate of about 6% in Luxembourg.
  39. 2 points
    Explain, please, how a party with 'Democrats' in their name can decide unilaterally to wilfully ignore the result of a democratically held referendum by saying they would revoke Article 50 without a further referendum? Especially as they raised the idea of a referendum on leaving or remaining in the first place!
  40. 2 points
    Not a lot going on as late but the tracks are coming on, only another 19 to do. Since the weather was nice I popped down to the Armortek factory to collect all the electronics and took the Wessie. 308 mile round trip. I’ll post what’s in the box when I’ve had a good look myself. I didnt take take many pictures but this Centurion caught my eye.
  41. 2 points
    I slotted in the box section steel I applied a load of carbond all over the steel and underside of the housing, and then positioned and clamped it. Hopefully that will be up to the job
  42. 2 points
    After life getting in the way, spent a bit of time and money and it is now running a healthy and smooth 130bhp after a carb tune. New tyres and tracking and now running great.
  43. 2 points
    One cage loose fitted ready to mark up and drill the holes for the main hoop and the sides. Newer chassis use a welded in plate to secure the cage which means I don’t have to put the side supports in. Hopefully it means some smaller holes through the side panels. Just need to to double check it’s all square then bolt it down tight and go for it!
  44. 2 points
    Here's some photos of the models currently in the cabinet.
  45. 1 point
    The epic road trip has been moved to its own thread, here: (Please shout out if any posts have been missed, or any moved that shouldn’t have been!) D
  46. 1 point
    From what I saw, the only actual test was front v rear balance. That said the tester can operate the rollers independently (but has no reason to). In Carlisle, LH and RH rollers had different buttons but he always pressed one straight after the other. It didn't even occur to me to tell him mine has an LSD, but the IVA testers know their stuff, so I'd be surprised if they'd risk a test that could damage such a common part without checking first. Still no harm to mention it anyway if you think of it.
  47. 1 point
    Im not sure the Cherry bombs ate stainless where as most if not all of the Magnaflow stuff is Stainless I think. I have Magnaflow Cats on my build and I've been very impressed with the performance and quality. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.
  48. 1 point
    Nice video Andrew
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Welcome Glyn, when do you get your kit? What spec have you gone for?
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