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  1. Steve (sdh2903)

    Steve (sdh2903)

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    Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO

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  3. IanK (Bagpuss)

    IanK (Bagpuss)

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  4. Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

    Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 25/07/19 in all areas

  1. 17 points
    Those of you closing following our recent Die Alpen 2019 Tour will be aware of some of this! My 4 year old dash2 died on our first day as we drove through Doncaster on our way to Hull πŸ˜‚ It had rained heavily from home to Hull and I suspected water ingress. We took the Dash2 apart as we had dinner in a pub in Hull and I rang @Mistercorn at Race Technology to cheekily ask if they could ship out a loan unit to our Hotel in Austria. They said yes , but advised out hotel location wasn't on next day delivery and it would be Fri evening before I would get it (This would mean the first day of Alps pass blatting would be with no dash or as a passenger with one of the others). I also sent @Si.Dalziel a message to ask if he could e-mail me the Dash2 config file I'd sent him. I then sent this onto RT to pre-program the replacement item with, as we'd not brought a laptop with serial lead on our trip. Once the dash was apart, I put it in a large bag of rice over night whislt we crossed to Zeebrugge by ferry. We hastily refitted it as the ferry prepared to unload the following morning, but it was still dead! πŸ˜‚πŸ€£ We continued our journey and as we travelled from Dusseldorf to Innsbruck by train, I could see the parcel was heading on a similar route (I may have even been on our train!). Once we were close to arriving in Innsbruck, I called DHL and suprisingly spoke with a human being! I asked if we could intercept the parcel and their depot near to Innsbruck to get the replacement irem a day earlier! They called me back and said it would be okay. We easily found the DHL depot and they handed the parcel over. The feet (on the floor) are the 'busy' DHL staff watching me fit the dash! No wonder i's two days to get to our hotel by DHL! Once fitted the dash worked faultlessly and many days of happy blatting were achieved including a lap of the ring. All much better for having working instrumentation! On returning home, I sent my faulty item into RT for repair and also asked for them to replace the back light whilst it was with them given it was 4 years old and I don't know how long they generally last (I recall others have had them fail at some point). Shortly after my dash2 was returned to me and the only charge was Β£10 + VAT for the back light! The repaired item now has improved sealing around the display to case (they offer this for any new purchases likely to be getting wet!). Many thanks for this excelent service Race Technology, our epic trip would have been a lot different without a working dash!
  2. 10 points
    So you can see my bevel and a few places dotted around where theres witness marks where it had gripped the flywheel. Having seen it now I'm also surprised the starter didn't over come it. I'd also tried rotating the flywheel with a big pry bar. So have ground off a lot more this time. Bolted it back up and it's all free rotating. And with the help of the oldest boy it's back sat on its mounts. I'm leaving it there for today as the anaesthetic is wearing off from this mornings visit to the dentist! Garage is a tip but I'll sort it another day.
  3. 10 points
    You aren't wrong kev. I seem to have been messing with the Inlet forever. Its definitely been the biggest pain of the install. Thanks to you and Dave for all the help with it. Inlet is now back from being welded and having an inlet for the iacv welded on As i couldn't find throttle cable bracket for the st200 inlet I cut off the mounts and needed to make a bracket. Ended up a rather interesting shape And fitted up with some temporary spacers. The welder also made me up an intake elbow and welded up the iacv adapter. And all test fitted together for a complete inlet finally! The filter outlet is a bit bigger than the intake pipe as I'd originally planned on using the bigger universal TB, so will need a reducer join or changing the filter for a 70mm to match. So it's all back apart now I know it all fits so I can get it all powdercoater or painted.
  4. 9 points
    Can't believe how long I've taken doing this next small task.... First was the panel for enclosing the nose and giving it some additional shape/stability. I still need to sort out quite how I'm going to complete the fixings. Still not 100% on whether to bend a piece of L section to fit the required shape or just use small bits. Small bits feels like cheating..... An extra complication is that the inner face of the nose isn't flat of course - it has the usual variation one would expect with a moulding. I've got some ideas, more anon on that. Anyhoo. the panel with just 3 fixings. Enough to proceed. The bottom edge is folded back at 90 degrees to add some stiffness and provide a suitable place to put some closed cell foam tape. I might make use of the bead roller and put some beads in these larger flat panels. The cutout also has a small return edge that sits on.... ....this. It provides a small fixed section of bulkhead to allow the cables to pass through. I chose the shape so it will self-align as the bonnet closes. This is a fiddly as a fiddly thing to assemble. You may just be able to spot the extra bits where the cables pass through. There is a big hole in the main piece to allow the bulky connectors to pass through, then there is a smaller section made of two identical halves, which when assembled, form 2 holes with a join down the middle. I put split grommets over the cables, slide the small pieces into place, locating the grommets then bolt the pieces to the main section. Once assembled, it holds the cables nicely with a grommet protecting the split tubing from chafing. It's a method I've used a lot to get all the pipes and wires through panels. And with the nose closed. This was by far the least worst route for the cables. Also fitted the scuttle front panel ready for the rest of the bonnet. And that's it.
  5. 9 points
    Much procrastination, displacement activity and domestic chores have meant not a lot getting done of late, but I've finally had a stern word with myself about getting on with the bodywork and made some small progress. One thing that was getting done slowly was the light switch mount. I started making an aluminium housing to accept the combined light switch and instrument dimmer, but it was just the wrong shape. I took the plunge and separated the two parts to try to help that. The initial idea was to mount the light switch, which by now had been reduced to a more or less round chunk of plastic, somewhere sensible, then relegate the instrument dimmer to just lurking somewhere out of sight. I designed a mount for the one and a case for the other. This process went through a few iterations until finally I'd combined them back into one piece, but this time it all fits in the available awkward space. The history. Left to right, the aluminium housing (fail), the simple cover to protect the dimmer switch and leave it dangling out of sight (fine, but naff), a version I thought I might glue to the side of the main mount, another version with a cutout to clear the main housing mounting (doh), the first main light switch mount (this fitted fine but was a bit flimsy) then the almost final version with the two parts merged (this was pretty good but I decided to make a better job of blending the two parts together. The small square hole in the dimmer case is for the legend. I managed to rescue enough of the plastic from the original part to retain the original translucent two-shot moulded bit and file out a 6mm square. This is the final CAD model. And the thing in position (those are large head M6 screws holding it on, not rivets). It actually falls nicely to hand. It isn't fully IVA friendly, although I have put radii were I can, but as it's in the steering wheel exclusion zone, it doesn't matter. I had thought about putting a panel on this inside area to join the side of the scuttle to the instrument shroud and hide the hole, much like the passenger side, but it'll be very awkward to do that now I think. I might have a bash at making a template some time, but worst case, I'll just seam weld that piece of angle where the tacks are visible so it looks a bit less crap. It'll be almost invisible in normal use anyway, but it would be nice to hide the back of that line of rivets. So, on to the main stumbling block of late - the metalwork for the aluminium skin on the thing. First step was some more CAD, but with cardboard this time. Suitable template made and then cut from metal. After some finessing of the location, some fixings. Not obvious here is that the panel has a bend plane along that diagonal line towards the front, as well as another that starts at the bottom of the diagonal where the bottom chassis tube dives in towards the front of the car. The end result is that the panel has a few diverging targets to hit. The top rail is straight from the B pillar to the nose, but the bottom rail starts with a smaller taper angle until it meets the bottom of the A pillar. It actually came out pretty nicely considering, with only putting a single bend across the line where it meets diagonal of the A pillar. The small forward section bent nicely into place by hand once the panel was secured. I managed to make an acceptable job of rolling the panel over the top of the cockpit side tube as well. It's not perfect, but realistically is as good as I'm likely to get. It still needs some finishing off - the rolled top needs a line of fixings on the inside of that top tube, it needs some slight trimming along the very bottom edge and a line of fixings, the front edge needs the two tabs bending inwards a bit to provide a fixing surface for more air ducting panels, and the top edge at the front needs a 90 bend putting in it so it sits on top of the top tube. As the day had gone pretty well up to that point, I decided to quit while I was ahead and tackle those jobs when I'm fresh. So, in conclusion, what the heck was all the fuss about? No idea why I didn't get this done a long time ago..... I think I'll probably do the other side once this one is complete and work back from there. Try and keep it as symmetrical as I can. The rear sections are going to be a bit awkward too, but hopefully not as bad as this part. Oddly, or perhaps just as well, I started with the trickiest bit, the scuttle top, and am slowly going down in difficultly level, but up in visibility of the finished parts.
  6. 9 points
    Last week , temp was 41c πŸ₯΅
  7. 9 points
    For our recent "Sausage Tour" I needed a new luggage rack to fit my MSA roll bar as the old rack was to wide to fit. So this is it.......20mm Aluminium box section and 12mm aluminium tube. Bolted onto the roll bar struts with exhaust clamps and still having access to the fuel tank filler, the rack carried approx 20kg of luggage for over 1000 miles. Best part.........it only weighs 2kg!
  8. 9 points
    My 2014 Mega S2000 competing in SCCA Solo this past weeekend. I like seeing the big tires being side loaded so hard. dave
  9. 8 points
    We have seven 7 type cars. We are going for seven days. we return to the UK on the 7th I wonder what we should call our forthcoming German tour? πŸ˜€ Hopefully we will get more pics like this (plus mr Smeg and John of course)
  10. 8 points
    Attended a Mission Motorsport 'not a track day' track day at Three Sisters yesterday, providing passenger rides for ex-servicepeople. With it being so local and inexpensive I thought it was a good chance to to try out the changes to the car, plus it's great to give back to some people who have given everything. Started on the road tyres as the track was a bit damp and the briefing was very much a case of 'we have no marshalls or medics on site, do not **** it up' - upon turning into the first corner of the first lap I was met with a huge lump of oversteer I'd had a niggle that the spring rate selection was going to be a bit on the drifty side, but went with it. Anyway, what hilarious fun. The new dampers are tons better, giving the car much more suppleness and plenty of 'feel' with the low speed damping, so I spent the whole morning going fully sideways at every opportunity. Apparently even in the cafe they knew when I was out because it was a lap of 50% tyre squeal Managed to get a full drift round Lunar and all the way onto the main straight a couple of times, the car is so playful and communicative. I swapped front springs (up to 225lbs) and onto slicks for the afternoon - obviously it rained just as I was fitting the last wheel, so the track started a bit damp in places. Dried out quickly though and the car was as much of a weapon as last time out, just with a lot more confidence to push and significantly more comfort. The huge kerbs in the 'esses' were completely smoothed out and none of that horrible jumpiness in the driver's seat. On that note, one of the MM guys who I had taken out last time came to say hello - turns out he'd broken a rib during said laps. Oops. I said the car was brutal didn't I! The longer gearing is noticeable, only hitting top of 4th rather than 5th, but a passenger did slow things down a touch (94mph top end on the datalogger, compared with 98mph on the old gearing / no passenger). Diff makes no funny noises, phew Lap times hovered around the low 56s, having done low 55s last time. The extra weight of a ~75kg passenger, from my calculations, would account for about 1.5s of lap time round this track, so combined with the fact we were taking it (relatively) easy means the car is probably a second or so faster per minute now - almost exact what was expected from the new dampers. Again the car was faultless - no leaks, nothing came loose, nothing fell off, nothing needed adjusting. I think I've even found a good spot for the speedo sensor (1.3mm gap to the sprocket adaptor - recommended is 1.0mm but I set it this close before and it 'nicked' the sensor and killed it, fine margins!) as that worked properly all day. Only used about half a tank of fuel too! Adjustments required... Front left tyre is showing a band of graining around 3/4 of the way towards the inside shoulder. I didn't get chance to do any work with the tyre probe but it indicates the car either doesn't have enough roll stiffness up front or it needs more camber (or caster, or both, or all three). I plan to make up a stiffer front ARB - going up to 3/4" rather than the current 11/16" - and wind in the upper rear rose joint on the front wishbones a turn or so to increase both camber and caster, then re-set toe. I'm hoping this extra roll stiffness will load the front tyres a bit more and improve speed of tyre warm-up since at the moment the rears come up to temp a fair bit quicker and the first half a lap is frustratingly understeery. Ideally I would have narrower tyres on the front I guess, but I want to stick with all 4 being the same. Pretty sure the car is ready again for a proper track day, so been chatting to Maurici this morning to try and sort out a date
  11. 8 points
    I thought I'd give my own mojo a little lift here and remind myself and anyone who's seen my car before what's been happening to it over the last five years of ownership. It's a 1989 narrow body SE, crossflow powered with a solid axle, chassis number 955. This car had laid dormant between 1999 and 2014 when I became it's new owner. It's taken the past five years to turn a wheel again due to all the reasons that we encounter, life, finance, more life, less life, fewer finances, circumstances and the often present lack of mojo. This year I was determined to get it back on the road and enlisted the help of a local sports car specialist who have a history with kits and specials to give it the once over and get it MOT'd. A few hiccups along the way just working through 30 year old wiring but it's now running and driving. As always, there's a list as long as our collective arms of things to do, but at least I can enjoy it now. It's become my runaround for local trips. Here's the car the day I collected it. and just last week. I've a blog post where details appear and I really ought to follow the examples of others and list the costs, even though that gets frightening!
  12. 8 points
    The year my late husband decided to order the Westfield. Wouldn't it be amazing if someone recognised their car... Of course some of you might not have been born..
  13. 7 points
    Down in the paddock at Curborough we found Garry Bunn talking to Paul and Alison, founders of WSCC, also to Stephen, while Derek was busy tickling the car. Supercharged Honda giving 430 bhp and weighing 540kg, you do the maths. 430+540=awesome Come closer Pete Goulding was there in his single seater Phil Williams was happy to show us his Hayabusa engined car Stickymint had his bonnet on when we arrived But not for long, another Hayabusa engined Westfield guess who arrived next overview of the paddocks with the Everall brothers in the foreground Back in the parking area next to the track there was 11 Westfields Now I can introduce the Peak District followers to Pokey, Stuarts car, you met his matching trainers earlier. Parked next to Andy and Sue's, with Bill's in the background Overview of the parking area with the track on the right and the viewing area Soon we were ready for the off, but what's this? my passenger has shrunk. Glen was taken off for a Honda Experience Day by Ian, while Ian's daughter, Charlotte, jumped in with me. Meanwhile Andrew had a start issue and received a bump start to get going. Nigel led us a lovely route past the JCB factory, over Blithfield Reservoir and into Ashbourne without passing a single speed camera. Thank you to Nigel for doing a great job and it was nice for me to follow for a change, it is a lot, lot easier. Lee took lots of photos as we travelled along and we will look forward to the results. Glen rather enjoyed the Honda ride, 'what a car' he said and sends his thanks. I took the lead in Ashbourne to guide us along the back lanes to Wetton. We crammed the cars into the car park and along the lane It was a table for 18 and this is the only cafe that I know that would accomodate that many people on a sunny Bank Holiday weekend. The service was excellent and so was the food. Food, did I mention food? that will include cake then and this place knows how to do cake. Which might also have a little bit to do with my choice of location. Decisions, decisions Orange and chocolate was popular Bill broke the trend with the lemon cake, slices only come in one size - huge It made sense for some of the more Southerly people to turn around here and the rest of us headed North on a super route to the Travellers Rest. Ian exited in style by giving us all a fighter jet sound track as he overtook us to pick up his route home, put it on your bucket list if you have never been overtaken by a Honda engined Westfield. At least he remembered his steering wheel before sitting in the car this time, even though somebody had hidden it, he did walk out of the cafe without it and I was wetting myself waiting for the penny to drop. He tells me revenge is sweet and I must admit that I am rather dreading the repercussions. On arrival at the Travellers Rest, John found a speck of dust on his car and immediatley tended to it πŸ˜€ Bill's clutch cable had broken as he arrived at the pub so it was all hands on deck to try and sort it, to no avail and the RAC was called Bill's car had to be moved and a driver was called for, as I was the lightest I thought it only right for me to volunteer and I got behind the wheel of the MIGHTY crossflow, while the others pushed. It was lovely sat outside the pub but soon HMP Barnsley needed it's inmates back so the Yorkshire Terriers departed John and Jacky Des and Debs Steve Johno and his mate Much later Andy and Sue made tracks too After a good while later Andrew and us headed East, leaving poor Bill to wait the last bit on his own and board the truck of shame. It has been a very enjoyable day, so varied starting at Curborough with the Speed Series, lots of driving, chatting , eating and even a bit of mechanicals. Best of all we have had a good laugh and that is because you are all great people, thank you for sharing your day with us xxxx
  14. 7 points
    Iv'e made a bit of progress but haven't had time to update but here's where we are. Currently mas producing tracks. Very time consuming but quite therapeutic, pop in the man cave for an hour and leave the outside world behind. Had to buy a build stand as it's getting heavy. This will make getting it in and out the car easy and no @IanK (Bagpuss) not the Wessie. Top deck has had a bit of progress and isn't fitted yet until all the electrics are installed. One thing I did find was a fuel can. I know they say 'Wehrmacht' on them which makes them German but the British fuel containers were a bit rubbish and needed tools to open them and they were square and clumsy so the British would pinch the German ones when they had the chance. Why do you think they are called 'Jerry cans'? Took some time out with my Dad this week and went over to Duxford Museum. I'm not going to bore you with the days events but it's well worth going. Afterall they have this.... Oh and one of these.
  15. 7 points
    Further elecktrickery today. Firstly took a look at the headlight issue. I had the high beam flash working via the freewheel but no dipped beam. After going back through the system I found some stuff i dont remember even doing and even more puzzling as to why. I'd bizarrely fitted an extra relay just to provide power to the headlight switch and it had it's own fused feed which I hadnt written down in my fuse list so didn't have a fuse in. Wacked a fuse in and hit the switch and they worked. Well sort of. I had the main and dipped the wrong way round. I did contemplate switching the pins at the headlight connectors but then that meant the colours would have been wrong, and could have potentially caused issues for me or any poor soul troubleshooting in future. So I went back into the fuse box and swapped them round. I also removed the unnecessary relay to just leave the 2 required for the freewheel. Heater speeds. This was a nice easy one. I swapped the low and high speeds around on the switch and it works as it should, although I'm still not sure why as the voltages are the same. All the other remaining car circuits have been powered up and tested and all is good. The freewheel is doing a grand job, thanks due here to @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary and @Kit Car Electronics with that as I'm using the 'Dave' spec freewheel with the single 'flick' wipe, washers automatically bringing on the wipers and the 2 press speeds. All working perfect. I need to take a look at the handbrake warning tomorrow and then I can start powering up the water pump and work towards a first fire up.
  16. 7 points
    We met Martin, Richard and Tash in Baslow where the tarmac was dry until we got to the reservoirs at Ladybower. There is a reason why the reservoirs are there, it rains, but with the quiet roads we were making good progress and kept going roofless. We drove past a car on it's roof with 2 lads looking rather peeved about it, that Mortimer Road takes no prisoners. I found the limit of my tyres on a tight, blind bend with a deer waiting for me around the corner - interesting to say the least. Martin's Duratec nicely growled behind me, not a tune that I am used to as we have no Duratecs in the Peak District. We arrived at the Carding Shed and I must apologise to Matthew as his is the only car that I didn't get on camera. There were 10 cars, not 9 as photographed. 40 people sat down to a Full English Breakfast and by the smiles on their faces they all enjoyed it, I did mine. No-one on this table liked Black Pudding so an imitation Blackpool Tower was made out of it, I must sit with you lot next time as I could have eaten the scraps, it was tasty and good quality. We took the tour of the garage next, maybe I spend too much time talking to Westfield builders and rebuilders but I thought it might have been a bit more technical. It was still interesting listening to the stories of the people behind the cars and it does make owning a Westfield feel like an economical hobby. Bet you never thought you would hear that! Anyway, Dave was happy And Paul had found The Manchester dangler Up Car Club After all the goodbye's, we set off roofless with Martin, Richard and Tash in drizzle and very soon found the dry tarmac again, which turned to full on sunshine by the time we passed the reservoirs. We called in Calver Crossroads Insomnia Cafe to top the sugar levels up. Richard and Tash Richard and Tash guarding the cakes It was lovely to meet Martin and his classy looking car. He has worked hard to update the car from Pinto to Duratec and it shifts. It was lovely to see Richard and Tash again with their rally days stories of The Mortimer Road in the dark, no wonder you were sideways!! Great fun. Lastly thank you to Robin for being a super, top bloke and organising this day for us all, your efforts are very much appreciated.
  17. 7 points
    No work this weekend so I got down to a bit of tank building. The new mug came out for scale purposes. Parts cleaned and ready for etch primer. Not the finest rear of the year but I'm happy with it. And finally the front mudguards with lights and brush guards, these will light at a later date.
  18. 7 points
  19. 7 points
    Yesterday evening saw the North Oxford Group enjoy our monthly meeting at the Rock of Gibraltar pub at Enslow. The weather was definitely suitable for Westfields and, despite several of the group being away on holiday, four of Kingswinford's finest came out. We sat outside and I ended up chatting to a couple from Mid Wales who were visiting Oxfordshire for this weekend's Countryfile Live show at nearby Blenheim Palace. We soon got onto the subject of good Welsh roads over which to enjoy sports cars. I am pleased to report that I knew every single one that he suggested (I'm down there a lot for scenic tours and stage rallies)! I then had a longer chat with another couple who had been driving by and saw the Westfields parked outside. They have a Lotus Elan +2 and the gentleman was looking for something a little more track focused. He was aware of Westfield Elevens and was appreciative of a good look over mine and seemed to be heading off to consider either buying one ready built or considering building his own! I have discovered with my car that not only do you buy into Westfield ownership with an Eleven but it's close similarity with it's Lotus inspiration taps you into another vein of interest - and the two marques seem to sit comfortably together (unlike some less well conceived replicas of other "classics"). Simon
  20. 7 points
    Road trip to the Alps a couple of weeks ago
  21. 7 points
    Yeah I applied some man maths and a dose of '**** it' to this also! Steve - as Chris says you technically end up with more fluid volume which can help with fade, but in this case I think the main benefit is adjustability (short answer). This is how I understand it... (long answer!). The high speed damping (bumps, kerbs, etc) is mainly set by the shim stacks and piston geometry. See Page 15: http://www.penskeshocks.co.uk/downloads/AdjustableTechManual.pdf As you can see, the shim stacks are only in play at high damper speeds. They flex out of the way to allow more oil to flow when the damper receives a big hit. Thicker / stiffer / more shims and smaller holes in the piston gives more resistance and greater damping, and vice versa. If a basic 1-way damper has an adjustment dial that will close or open up a 'bleed' in the main shaft, by pushing / retracting a tapered needle into a similarly shaped orifice. See Page 12 in the link above for a visual. The bleeds primarily deal with low speed (as in, when the damper is moving slowly - you turn into a corner, get on the power, etc). It does have some 'cross talk' with high speed though, as a bigger bleed will still flow more oil when it is forced to. I'm not certain, but my feeling is that dampers built this way often tend to try and work for a wide range of spring rates and car weights, therefore rely a lot on bleed to adjust damping and are very 'tight' on the shim stacks. By definition this means they don't open up very much during hard hits, producing quite a spike. If they were 'slack' on the shims then the oil would take the easy route, bypassing the bleeds and your adjustment would be very limited. On this note, the single adjustable Quantums I have just taken off have a much narrower range of adjustment than previous Gaz and ProTech I have had dynoed, so I have a feeling the bleeds aren't doing much work and the majority of the damping is being produced elsewhere - in the piston shim stacks. It's important to note that in the case of the bleeds there is very little fluid movement - it's only the volume that has been displaced by the piston shaft entering / retracting from the main volume of oil - so this is very sensitive to manufacturing tolerances and quality. This may be why you see basic dampers unmatched when supplied in pairs, or their adjustment ranges are wildly different. To 'match' a pair of these basic dampers you just dyno them to see where they're at and then fudge the start positions of the adjusters, so they will be pretty much equal throughout the range. Having only small amounts of fluid flow through the bleeds is also why you see thicker shafts on 'better' dampers - as well as them being stiffer, this produces more fluid movement and you can control low speed damping (the stuff that you actually feel while driving the car) better. When the shim stacks come into play at higher speeds, the piston is moving through a much larger volume of oil, so tolerances are not quite as sensitive and you don't feel this as much when driving - it's more a case of 'allowing the wheels to get out of the way'. The 'magic' in posh dampers is splitting high and low speed adjustments, and being able to do something about each of them externally. We've seen how to change low speed, but externally adjusting the amount of preload on a main piston shim stack to control high speed is, well, flipping tricky as you will be able to work out from the diagrams on page 15! By having the remote reservoir, you are then flowing fluid from the main body into the remote - and it's here where the extra adjustment is. Have a nosey at Page 11. If you look carefully on Page 12 you will see there is a one way valve made from a ball bearing, preventing fluid flow through the bleed under compression. The canister instead houses the low speed compression adjustment (same affair - a 'needle' into a tapered hole), but also a second adjuster which adds or removes preload to second stack of shims which come into play during high speed compressions. You still have the stack of shims on the main piston which sets a baseline for the damper, but this second adjustment is very useful to tune the car, and it's not possible without the external canister. You need the help of the dampers to 'prop up' the car enough so that it doesn't bottom out on fast hits, but still be soft enough to allow the wheels to get out of the way when necessary. The high speed compression adjustment allows you to tailor this to your exact car, surface condition and preference. Then, because you have control over the low speed damping separately, you can run lower spring rates to allow better articulation of the wheels and keep them on the floor more often, but the car will still feel 'taught' when the driver adds an input because the low speed damping is resisting body movement. Again this can be tuned to driver preference and surface condition. If you look at those crazy stadium trucks you'll see what I mean - when landing from the jumps they blow through travel, but in driver-created transitions they prop up surprisingly well given the amount of travel, weight and high CoG! Hope that makes sense a bit!?
  22. 7 points
    I think the car is ready to hit the track again now, albeit after a bit more work than I'd wanted! Yep, that is half the back end off again... Having changed diff oil to some proper stuff, I lifted the rear of the car last night and flicked it into 6th gear at idle - almost silent. With a dab of brakes on and everything loaded up the diff got even quieter, phew! So I think that's sorted. However, I noticed the right rear wheel wobbling away quite significantly. Not sure if it's been like that from the start, or only come on after the bearing change, but it was very obvious - perhaps 3mm run out at the rim edge! Hmm. Found about 0.25mm run out at the flange, which when multiplied up to the rim would be significantly more, so I machined that back square. Half way done... Much better, less than 0.02mm run out. All back together and the rim edge now runs out about 0.7mm, so it's tons better, but still not ideal. Played around trying to find the source and drew a blank. The other side measured approx 0.5mm so I'm sure it'll be fine, but not being able to find the reason is bugging me!
  23. 7 points
    Dampers on, ride heights set (though I think the springs will sag a bit) and baseline damping settings done. Have gone for 170lb front and 90lb rear springs, very much on the light side but it gives me the wheel ratios I want and feedback from the car will come from the ARBs and low speed compression damping. Added extra long and soft bump stops to the front as I always do (to prevent the sump grounding out) and the chassis required a bit of attention with the angle grinder to get the rears to fit, but other than that no dramas πŸ˜† Still need to mount the canisters, but a few zip ties will take care of that. Have found some handy locations where they should be out of crap's way and be easy to get to the adjusters. Car has suspension which actually moves now, which is amazing πŸ˜† The range of adjustment is pretty amazing, really noticeable.
  24. 6 points
    And the answer was... Overpressing of the spring forcing the clutch plate into the flywheel as suggested by @DamperMan and @Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO The clutch cable had frayed and snapped last time, so took a while to get a replacement and have another go. The pedal had way too much travel, so the window for engaging gears was actually quite small... We've fitted a clutch pedal stop bolt and now it's fine. Phew! Thanks for the help, as ever.
  25. 6 points
  26. 6 points
    Getting a little closer...
  27. 6 points
    Loads of little jobs ticked off today as I managed nearly a full day in the garage, although nothing really photo-worthy. Engine wiring is complete, used the universal tps in the end It just looks neater. Diff breather and fuel tank breather and filter sorted and clipped up. Whipped the scuttle back off to tidy up the rest of the wiring, sorted a few earths and went over a few bits of wiring to check a few bits and bobs with the fluke as it's been quite a while since I finished the wiring. I'd also noticed that where my fuse box lives the wires were sat up against the ally tray, so incase of any chafage I've lined the tray with some rubber sheet. Set the final routing of the fuel line since I moved it and clipped that in place, Along with some other engine bay tidying and replaced the silver jubilee clips to black ones as they just look neater. Still waiting on some pipework to finish the last of the coolant system but will hopefully arrive in the next day or so. So the battery has been topped up and I think I'm edging closer to power-on maybe later this week, then I can check the ECU and dash settings and all my other wiring, bit nervous as its effectively all been wired by me. So I think I'll pop one fuse at a time in and check each circuit individually.
  28. 6 points
    Looking good ready for the body to go on.
  29. 6 points
    Just been cleaning and painting the last parts of the motor. Made up the blank plates for the EGR & inlet sensor, plus a bracket steering column . Small bracket made to support the centre console as we spilt this for the loom go pass through.
  30. 6 points
    Wee bit more done today. As usual, not much to show for it but it took a while - mostly moving stuff in & out of the workshop as there is no room inside to work on a panel this big any more. Put the bends in the front area of the panel. Had to resort to bits of angle, clamps, a block of wood and a mallet to form these. The small bender I've borrowed wouldn't go near the job. The aperture round the suspension bracket needs a slight fettle too - round out the corners and increase clearance at the bottom a bit. I'd like to try and seal this gap between panel and suspension bracket on final assembly with some sort of rubber moulding just to minimise the amount of water ingress into the closed off section that will be formed by all this panelling. I'll make sure there are drains of course. To the left of this shot you might be able to see the edge of an aluminium panel. This is part of the air ducting that will form a sort of V shape and guide the air coming through the radiator out the sides behind the front wheels. The inboard dampers will be behind this paneling so should be protected from pretty much all road dirt, water etc that makes its way through the rad. Unfortunately, the gap visible here between the existing central panel and the new side panel will have to be made in two parts each side as its physically impossible to assemble from one part due to 'stuff' in the way. It'll still be fiddly as heck even in two parts as the wishbones will have to go on first. I'll probably cover the large outlet gap with some large louvres.....but I'll see how it looks just open first. Could cheat and just fit some mesh perhaps as another option. Actually, that's not a bad idea..... And some final tweaking of the fit between the 3 panels that meet by the A pillar. Pretty happy with how this turned out. Hopefully once the panels are painted, these join lines will be less obvious. They are pretty snug though, which is nice, and all three panels are now flush with one another. No picture, but I also trimmed the top where it rolls over the side tube. Just need some fixing holes in that bit, and need to accurately mark the bottom edge for trimming. Awkward at present as the chassis stand it is sitting on blocks access for marking. Tried an iffy technique but results not reliable so I need to come up with something better. I suspect it'll be as simple as lifting the front of the chassis clear of the trolley while I mark it. Just need to find the workshop floor under the front of the thing first so I can get a jack in there. Anyhoo, a day of gainful employ tomorrow so won't get back to it until Tuesday. Just hope I can keep up the momentum and good luck.... Seems to be taking a long time to do this panel, but better slow than sorry. It would be nice to think that the second one will be quicker....but it probably won't Still, it does feel like I'm getting somewhere when I put a large chunk like this on. As long as I don't look at the back of the car anyway......
  31. 6 points
    I've been having some problems with hot-starting on my Zetec-powered Westie. Some forum browsing revealed that its a common problem, as the exhaust manifold on the Zetec runs really close to the starter motor. After suffering the embarrassment of being push-started at a petrol station last weekend, I decided it was time to sort it. I browsed the forums and after reeling at the cost of a Brise or Wosp starter motor, I decided that I should just bite the bullet and go for it. I'd already ready that there were a lot of variables (pinion teeth, bellhousing to ring gear distance, etc), so I decided to take my knackered starter off, and it was then that I discovered three issues:- The starter was only held on with two bolts, not three The casing of the starter was very loose on the casting body - the two securing bolts accessible from the pinion side were loose The heavy leads to the solenoid were a bit loose So - instead of a hefty spend on a new uprated starter motor, I've got away with a couple of hours work and about Β£5 expenditure (for the swear jar....) Moral - always check the really simple (and cheap) stuff first...
  32. 6 points
    A great day out, lovely scenery and great roads ,Food ,ice cream and company all excellent . It was my first time up here and I loved it ,I can see why so many people join these run outs . In the words of Arnie I’ll be back. πŸ‘ Thanks @Julie Hall - Peak District AO For being a great host and @Trevturtle for showing me the way back .
  33. 6 points
    A great run out as always! Given my recent tinkering with rad, dash, EWP, throttle cable and gear selector, it was good to confirm correct operation of all items! Thanks @Julie Hall - Peak District AO for the planning that goes into these great runs! I 'think' this pic has all 11 Westfields in! Glad @Stuart got home dry! I did by about 20 mins. I susect others may have not!
  34. 6 points
    Second that - and thanks for welcoming the ex-pat. Great to meet you all and will definitely be up for doing it again if you'll have me. Perhaps not every week with a 2+ hour drive at each end. I actually made great time on the way back without too much motorway. Home at 1635 which was perfect 'cos at 1645 it started to pee down 😊
  35. 6 points
    I trimmed up my freshly made panel and squeezed it into position. I then used a heat gun on it to soften it which allowed me to bend the top section nicely. Viewed from inside the arch Viewed from the seat area Next is to make up a small section to close off the gap at the bottom. I could not get the large panel in if it had gone right down to the bottom. Once that smaller section is made I can then glass it all in
  36. 6 points
    Family lifes been keeping me busy, so not to much to report. Did manage to get the manifold off ready for ceramic coating, just need to package it up & get it sent off to camcoat :0)
  37. 6 points
    Just after my Die Alpen Trip, my replacement radiator arrived from Coolex (this one has resin down both sides of the cores where they meet the end tanks). Given I've still not identified the cause of my ability to kill radiators (I've ruled out pressure and temperature), I'm keen to get my install as close to standard as possible. Other S2000 Westie's don't kill their rads. Hence I've designed an adapter for the inlet of my EWP. This means I no longer need a hose going into the thermostat boss on my radiator. @Ben (bunje) did a great job of fabricating it to my 'fag packet' sketch (below). This would also mean the bottom hose would clear the front of the chassis better too. Davies Craig, kindly provided their CAD drawing for their inlet adapter. I bought a 19mm hose barb in aluminium from https://www.viperperformance.co.uk/hose-plugs-blanking-caps_9872_aluminium-weld-on-bosesbarbed.html This was then welded onto the adapter plate. The radiator removed, was leaking from multiple places now (It was fitted in Aug 2018 and discovered leaking on 31-12-19 and had covered less than 2000 miles at this point). It's now covered 5077 miles (I've probably done more miles with a leaking rad than without! πŸ˜‚- they hardly need topping up and don't suddenly drop all my coolant). The pump is a fiddle to remove as they wasn't so much of the car in place when it was sited! Once out, the outlet elbow was removed and the adapter plate sansdwiched inbetween. You'll notice that the elbow prevents one of the long pins being fitted, so a piece of studded bar was loctited in place and a nut used. The pump was wiggled back into place and the hose connected to the outlet of my nose mounted coolant tank via a Tee-piece(arrowed) was enables the coolant outlet from the oil cooler/modine to return. I've padded the chassis rail with a piece of cut hose, just to stop the alloy adapter hitting the rail, though once the hoses are all fastened up, the pump can't really move far. The bottom radiator hose now clears the chassis at the front too: I took this opportunity whilst drained down to remove the coolant swirl pot, which clearly doesn't stop me killing rads and hence is aditonal weight and more opportunities for hose clips to leak! The hockey stick is back in! Fresh coolant was put in (good practice when replacing the rad, as I've learn't that some of the anti corrosion chemicals in antifreeze get used up coating the new aluminium surface). I've got a loom made up to assist running the EWP from the battery to aid bleeding: Basicially you just unplug the two pin connector from the pump and then use the red crock clip on the battery positive. I then clip the black clip to an exhaust manifold stud to run the pump to aid bleeding. Otherwise when the engine is cold, if you use the EWP controller, it just runs the pump every 30 secs or so at half speed. Now only time and mileage will tell if this one will fail! I've left the baffle plate from around the radiator, again to rule it out (It does touch the nose cone via a rubber door edge strip).
  38. 6 points
    New crank seal just turned up quick clean up as a touch more oil has made a bid for freedom and knocked the new seal in with the new one. I made note of the old seal position and measured the depth using the service books guides and the new one looks to be good. hopefully that’s been put to bed but as I don’t have the time for a few days to refit I will get to check all is well in a few days.
  39. 6 points
    So over the weekend I bonded in both catches with Tigerseal. Not pretty but certainly functional. I made sure that there is an overlap of the sealant to the bonnet panel surface. Then in preparation for fibreglassing over the top to add security I printed 2 blanks for the securing catch. With these fitted it should ensure the access holes are not covered and should be neat too after the fibreglassing is finished.
  40. 6 points
    I had also been thinking about how to bolt down the fuel filler cap, as access to the top of the fuel tank is non existent due to the nature of the boot and rear bulkhead panels. So I decided to make up a captive retaining ring with threaded holes to bolt into All bonded to the underside of the bodywork
  41. 6 points
    Out for a jolly with mum yesterday, nearly 5 hours 'in the saddle' and it was seriously hot, almost had to put the roof on (but only almost)! Sun cream essential πŸ‘ Cam definitely imagine the Westy would be even hotter with the tunnel heat warming your left leg! Same again today β˜€ Stay safe and enjoy everyone 😁😎
  42. 6 points
    First MOT today and first pass. On Sunday, I ran as course opening car on the Maharajah's Tour (a 70mile scenic tour around Oxfordshire finishing at a great little car show in the village of Stoke Row. The rest of my photos from the day were cr*p. I relied on my mobile phone but the lens was dirty and, in the bright sunshine, I could not check the images well enough.
  43. 5 points
    Now Sold and paid for. Very soon to be on it's way to Belgium to join two other JW4's
  44. 5 points
    Old Puma engine meets new πŸ˜€
  45. 5 points
    Exhaust and lamda probe fitted. Seat belt fixings done and the spacers adjusted to get the correct hoop position.
  46. 5 points
  47. 5 points
    A bit more covered up with my home made flared sides. They overlap the original sides by about 25cm so you cannot see the inside.
  48. 5 points
    Oh what lovely comments guys, thank you, we have enjoyed every minute of today all because of you xxxxx We met at Matlock and there were Dave Eastwood, Ian Kinder, Andrew, Stuart, Trevor, Steve, Chris, Rob, Luke and arriving lastly was Bill. Bill was nearly as late as us, since I got in the car to a flat battery this morning. My headlight bracket had broken in the week and so Glen had fixed it and had used the lights a lot to check the alignment of the beam, draining the battery in the process to 7V. Good job we have one of these handy little clicky things. Matlock Matlock Tyre kicking in Matlock Off onto the country lanes through the villages waiting for a bus? No, just some Westfields until we arrived at The Queen Anne in Great Hucklow where we promptly compared cow poo. Dave won! At The Queen Anne where we would have sat outside if the wasps weren't so friendly PaulVX was waiting for us in his BMW 240i Ian and Trevor worry me sometimes as they seem to be very close to each other, don't mention rear wings to Ian though will you We all enjoyed our lunch in the pub and few people had to leave for family duties.Trevor had an idea and the troops were gathered let's have a group photo yes, here he is, trevtrouble Next is the most hilarious bit, we all got in our cars ready to go for cake, I had a last look around before setting off, to find Ian's car was empty. Ready? you will laugh at this, he had left his steering wheel in the pub and had sat in the car and done what? God only knows. He coming running out of the pub with his steering wheel shoved up his t-shirt, but we won't mention it will we? Speaking of steering wheels, I jumped in my car this morning and set off, late as previously mentioned, and drove down the road with a wonky steering wheel. The current husband had been feeding his cleaning OCD and had put the steering wheel back onto the boss in the wrong position. This is it with the wheels straight. With all wheels in place we took the lovely route to an outdoors cafe, The Smithy in Monyash and had ice cream. There was the usual large gathering of motorbikers, cyclists and walkers so it was a case of park where you can. We all dispersed in different directions from there. Stuart's satnav had said it was 2 hours 40 minutes for his journey home, so I think that is a record, well done Stuart and it is comforting to read that you had a good journey back. Nobody is local so you all deserve a pat on the back, not a cow pat though! Thanks for coming, being great company and good drivers, hope to see you all next time xxxxx
  49. 5 points
    Don’t want repeat what has been said by the others so I will just say it was brilliant. Thanks for all the effort sorting out the route and for herding us all.
  50. 5 points
    Now that my car has passed its Iva. I would like to thank all the members who have answered my many questions on this forum. If it had not been for our fantastic members, then I would have struggled to build the car.
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