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  1. 8 points
    I presented a winter talk last night to the Stafford Group of Advanced Motorists and Riders on the building of my Westfield and also the two trips to Le Mans completed. One of their members brought along a model car he'd built. He's also built and raced the full sized version in the early 2000's. I thought others including @Robin (Red Spider) - Yorkshire AO would like to see it.
  2. 8 points
    Well a savage dose of man flu has been rampaging through the house meaning sick kids sick wife and sick me. I hadn't even touched a bolt in anger in over a week, Which meant I had more time internet shopping which is dangerous...... Back in today. Rad and monster fan mated up and fitted Alternator belt sorted (on the 2nd attempt) and tensioner fitted. Highly technical task of the washer bottle install. I had been moving the water pump here there and everywhere but every place had it's pitfalls and got in the way. So I've ended up back where it started on the rocketeer bracket on the engine. Before starting on the cooling pipework I figured I'd better get a battery and get it fitted. I couldn't stomach 30 quid for a bit of folded ally so made a box for it. Just about fits under the rack. The fuel tank arrived late on today and looks a nice bit of kit. Jim at Arf has done a lovely job. He's even made a clever fuel return which will feed the sump but not piped into it to create aeration. Ecu is ordered and on its way and the body work is getting collected this weekend. Just need to convince santa that I've been a good enough boy to order my digidash now......
  3. 8 points
    As you manipulate the headers out, stick your tongue out the left corner of your mouth, sometimes that helps.
  4. 7 points
    Quick trial fit today.....
  5. 7 points
    I've done one of those too, a bit scruffy but satisfying. I've always wanted one so had to make it. It's from a 50mm cube. The black marks are because I hadn't finished cleaning it before I took the pic.
  6. 7 points
    Spent a few hours working on the car today around servicing my girlfriend's Fabia and fitting some new lighting at work, and made small but important progress. This may be a long post...! As I mentioned previously, I'd been considering all things steering, with bump steer, Ackerman etc. whizzing about in my head. I'd had a quick look at the HiSpec supplied steering arms and found a few things - 1) their 'short' arms are actually the same length as standard Cortina ones, 2) they offered very little in the way Ackerman corrected steering (and there's even less on the super short steel Westfield ones). I like the idea of Ackerman steering for a couple of reasons, it means the inside front wheel turns more than the outside, so you can run less static toe out and have reduced straight line scrub, plus it means the front end doesn't squal like a pig driving around Asda car park I've only recently got my head around this fully, and happy to help explain it, but the diagram goes as follows... This is obviously a car with the steering rack behind the front axle, but the same principle applies. Here's the standard steering arms: See how the line between tie rod ball joint and steering axis points somewhere near the middle of the passenger compartment. This would be great on a car with a really narrow track or a huge wheelbase, but on our cars it means that the front tyre doesn't turn as far as it needs to. This ends up with it being pushed / scrubbed over the road surface, sapping bhp and some of the available grip. So I wanted to move the end of the steering rack outboard, and also make the arm shorter so the steering would be quicker. My previous cars have had 2.4 racks with standard geometry Cortina uprights, but I had a perfectly good 2.9 rack to use (didn't want to buy another when there was no need!). I found some info for how many mm of rack movement there was per 1 turn of the steering column for a few different racks and worked out that I wanted around 35mm long steering arms (standard are 70mm) to give me slightly quicker steering with the 2.9 rack than I'd had before with the standard uprights and a 2.4 rack. The other advantage of moving the end of the rack outboard was reducing bump steer. In short, the Escort rack doesn't work properly with a Westfield chassis in the position it's in. The rack itself either needs to be shorter, or it needs to be higher up in the chassis (significantly!). Good article here: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-1001-bump-steer-explained/# You don't need all the rods in line though... Bump steer is near zero in the conditions above. With the Escort rack, the inner joint on the tie rod is outside the line from upper and lower wishbone pickups (ie. the track rod is too short). This means it describes a smaller radius than it should and the front wheels go toe in when they move upwards. This makes the steering go all numb and the 'scrub' again stops the car rolling and robs the tyre of grip. Absolutely fine if the main aim of the car is to stop Jonny Smith from firing it off at the first sign of a wet, off-camber corner, but that's not what this build is about To correct this you could raise the rack (by a few inches - not really possible) or increase the length of the tie rod. Tricky but doable... So I came up with the idea of using one of the steering arm mounting holes instead. It was in a pretty good position (centreline of the car is that yellow spray can balanced in the background): The hole was a bit weedy at M8, but it could be opened up (note, helicoils can be pulled out easily with pliers if you need to, and it leaves the thread intact) So that was helicoiled out to M10, and I had some nice 12.9 bolts ready to go in, just needed to turn up the spacers. The misalignment spacers do a great job of allowing loads of articulation, I'm fairly sure this will be enough but need to check when I've made up some threaded adaptors from the M14 x 2 steering rack to the M12 x 1.25 rod ends. The eagle-eyed will notice how I've mounted the rod ends off-centre in the pickups. This is to increase the wheelbase slightly (I have some weird offsets on my wheels so the track width will increase and I wanted to try and keep the track:wheelbase ratio as close to standard as I could - it's not made a huge difference but it's gone in the right direction at least) and also reduce something that's termed 'compliance'. This is general flex in components which all add up to reduce the directness in feel of the vehicle. By putting the rod ends right up against one end of the pickup it puts the bolt more in shear rather than bending. Oh and it meant I only had to make 8 rather than 16 spacers Here's a comparison between the regular steering arms and my solution. I went for 40mm rather than the 35mm I'd calculated as being 'ideal', but this leaves room for tweaking if I deem necessary (harder to add it back on!). And an overall view of how the front end is looking now. Camber is set to -2.5 and caster 4.0 degrees - really easy to do without the wheel on and the car on the build platform! I would urge every builder to set their alignment at this stage if possible, it's so much easier! You can see here that the tie rod is effectively much longer now - I've not done a proper bump steer setup yet, but by sliding the rack up the standard mounts about 15mm (check out the bolts) and making these new steering 'arms' it's looking very positive. New vs 'old' parts, 220g vs 450g. Every little helps! I'd also found some pics of 'bump steer correction kits' online, which did a good job of setting my mind at ease about how 'skinny' some of my suspension parts looked... this one is for a Porsche 911. Looks a bit scary! And a Clio one... tested at the 'Ring, apparently. Chucked the side panels on just before I left so I can ponder front ARB fitting (might have to make another one to clear the bodywork) and exhaust can mounting (looks nice and easy, may also add a strip hanging off one of the cage mounts to firm it up). Realised that the bodywork is quite a lot higher than the chassis around the driver's elbow area. I'd set the steering position up so my elbow would just clear it, so that needs a re-think. Likely solution will be to move the wheel a good chunk closer (it's already come a bit closer from moving the rack up so much) so my elbow hangs out the side, then increase the length of the shift linkage and make a second mounting position for the shifter itself so that comes back the same distance as the wheel. A bit of a bummer to duplicate work but it'll be worth it!
  7. 7 points
    A couple of updates - we've been working hard on the CAN integration options for the receiver - probably not so exciting for most Westfields, but many race cars are moving to Power Distribution Units instead of conventional relays and fuses - some of these support CAN messaging, so the 10 steering wheel channels can be broadcast on CAN by the FreeWheel receiver at 10ms rate, without needing the bulk of separate wires in a harness. I also have some laser-cut plastic backplates coming to play with, that will have the standard 70mm PCD holes as well as 50-50.8 for Rapfix and Go-Race hubs.
  8. 6 points
    Lots of little jobs tidied up today. Not really much picture worthy. Trying to wrap up as much before I go for a body fit. Diff filled with oil and the breather fitted. Gearbox oil filled, cheated here and cut an access hole in the tunnel panel. Tank straps made, just awaiting the neoprene foam to arrive so I can get the tank bolted in. Sorted out a clevis for the throttle cable and fed that through leaving plenty of length to terminate once I've a throttle to attach it to. Once that was done I fitted the 2 outer ally panels. Managed to get to the last 6 rivets before getting covered in sealant . All the plumbing pipe work is here ready to start mocking up aswell. I did get a couple of custom pipes made up from a very helpful guy on eBay (user bbtigwelding) to cut down on the number of joints. The 2 sensor bosses are for the fan controller and the coolant temp sensor. Also gave the battery cover a coat of paint and got the battery fitted.
  9. 6 points
    Feel like I've been doing battle with this bit for a while now....but I think I've got it beat at last. Doesn't seem much to show for all the effort, but it's a tricky set of problems finally resolved, so that's good. Bulkhead is in two main parts, with some smaller removable sections in the top half that allow fitment of the cable bundles. The gear cables go through some large cable glands that are firmly fixed to the lower panel. I've still go to trim the holes for the main coolant pipes and fit grommets, but that's it. It is at least as much of an A*** to assemble as it probably looks, but once it's all together, everything is firmly located and although it doesn't look like it, there is good working clearance for the moving parts of the handbrake mechanism with no chance of anything coming into contact with said moving parts. The phrase 5lbs of **** in a 1lb bag seems apt.....it gets particularly snug as the whole lot squeezes past the handbrake lever, but Ive just managed to keep it all within the profile i needed to. It looks a bit more tidy once it gets forward of the handbrake and gearstick. Next step is to carefully dress the pipes & cable bundles into the tunnel and fit suitable clips to hold everything firmly in place. I'll be glad to see the back of this bit. I've had to revisit some of the cable bundles to reduce bulk and numbers of bundles, which in the end was good, but it was a bit of a chore to have to strip back things I thought were finished with (twice). Having the engine at the back does rather aggravate the problem - there are 20 signal and control connections from the ECU loom at the back, to the front of the car alone (list available on request....), plus throttle pedal (6 wires), ECU power, main battery to starter, then a whole bunch of lighting connections (each lamp has a dedicated feed due to the donor car having bulb fail monitoring), speed sensor, etc. There aren't any redundant wires in the thing, I removed all those long ago, but there are certainly more than are strictly required to get the job done. I could have made matters slightly better by having the battery at the back, but only slightly, and there wasn't anywhere sensible left to put the battery anyway, other than were it is now, up front. Anyhoo, onward and upward.....next after fixing it all in place will be to cover it all up.
  10. 6 points
    Scrap chassis has gone!!!! the scrap man tried to charge me to take it away as there was nothing on it but one old battery as payment and off it went. I now have 2 weeks to reorganise the garage and increase the lighting ready for the kits arrival. If I get bored the engine and gearbox still need cleaning and a bit of work. Getting pretty giddy now.
  11. 6 points
    I’m almost done Live Axel - IRS conversion
  12. 6 points
    Well I’m a happy bunny engine and box are both out. Kinda wish I had revived the prop shaft earlier but hey ho.
  13. 5 points
    As part of the re-tub’ing over winter on the car, I thought I’d fit Aerocatches on the boot, as I like the fact you can either lock them or leave them unlocked, independently of fastening the catch. Of course, doing them on the boot lid means the bonnet would look odd on the original locks so I ended up taking advantage of the Black Friday sales to order two sets from JJC. they arrived today, at which point I spotted my rookie mistake! Not two more sets of different keys! Only this time, very, very similar looking. Then I spotted the key ID numbers on the backs of the packs, and rang Aerocatch. I spoke to a very helpful chap called Graham explaining the situation, and asking if it was possible to get key matched sets. After explaining that this is normally something you’d have to request on ordering the catches, he asked for my key numbers and actually went down to the stock room to look for a match. Sure enough, five minutes later I get a call back. No point messing around going through JJC, he says. Just send the catch set with key code nnn back to us, and as soon as we get it, we’ll post out a set matching your remaining Aerocatches. What fantastic service, very impressed. (Though not looking forward to fitting them!)
  14. 5 points
    There's not much to show for the last couple of weekends work as I've mainly been fettling fibreglass although yesterday was spent learning to weld. I haven't used a welder properly since I served my engineering apprenticeship back in 1995 and although I have used one now and again for the occasional small job I've never felt confident enough to tackle anything too difficult or safety critical so I signed myself up on a one day training course will Allied Welding in Benfleet so I'd be able to do a few more of the welding jobs on the JW4. For anyone thinking of learning I can thoroughly recommend their courses. https://www.alliedwelding.co.uk/product-category/welding-centre/?v=79cba1185463 Back to fettling the JW4 bodywork and the first job last weekend was to release the remaining body parts from the moulds. Its suprising how long this took with the 60+ nuts and bolts to split and then close the various parts of the moulds. Today Was mostly spent on the lower body and thus has been on and off the car more times than I care to remember with marking and cutting for the wishbones and to clear the chassis tubes but by lunchtime I was finally happy with the fit so gave it a final sand and polish then (hopefully) fitted it for the last time. Light was beginning to fade by early afternoon, just enough time to make a start on the upper body but I ran out of time before I could finish it properly and I had to leave the fitting around the roll hoop for another day.
  15. 5 points
    Finished and IVA ready! (we think )
  16. 5 points
    I'll leave this here: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-46386387
  17. 5 points
    Engine back out tomorrow, gearbox out as well and I might even pop these on the motor to see how they look
  18. 5 points
    Got the seats in tonight, 40 minutes for the drivers side then 2 hours for the passenger side, copied off Chris and took 40mm off the release bar.
  19. 5 points
    Finished pictures Did a last minute change the headlight cables, but this is she!
  20. 5 points
    Inlet manifold all primed up with VHT primer
  21. 5 points
    Full day in the garage today, first job was to re-route the positive cable thanks to @AdgeC for his suggestion. Happier with this now may even get some more clips on the vertical run. I then decided to tackle the aero catches Ive been putting of for ages, I marked out the positions aligning my router jig on the centre line created. The dimensions I borrowed(stole) from @BugMan's build, excellent attention to detail thanks. I then applied double sided tape to the jig and clamped in place . Router with 4mm cutter There is still plenty to cut and thin from the inside to get them to fit ,so started on the most difficult side. Just need to thin the back out a tad more , Im hoping the other side will be easier as theres not so much to cut out. Thanks to all the first class builds on here for getting me through this, by far the most stressful thing Ive done on the car. Rich
  22. 5 points
    Only bit I understood of that post was "£120"
  23. 5 points
    Update time..... Last night I ventured out into the darkest depths of Suffolk to collect the bodywork from Applied Fibreglass. For those wondering where they are, they make all the bodywork for Andy Bates AB Performance and are based in the unit next door to Andy. I'd asked them to refit the new bodywork in the moulds to minimise the risk of damage for the journey home so I hadn't had a chance to look at them when I got home last night, but tonight I popped the first part from the moulds and had a good look for the first time. Hopefully the weather will be good this weekend so I can work on the main body parts.
  24. 5 points
  25. 5 points
    ... and it's Simon Westwood!! Julian Turner has moved on to become CEO of the Westfield Technology Group. News in Complete Kit Car magazine and hats off and 3 cheers to Simon!!
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