Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 19/03/19 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Well, found myself with a few spare hours unexpectedly this afternoon, so I bled the brakes, and stuck some wheels on... Given that our politicians seemingly can't organise anything, I decided to do my own version of Brexit, Lexit: Then had a little drive So, anti climax of the year right there. With my left foot wedged firmly against the brake pedal, which is all the way to the left, my brain thought it was the clutch After that quick recalibration though, the clutch is brilliant. First pull away (the one in the video) perfectly smooth, subsequent ones the same. Downshifts feel natural, grab the lever while pushing the stick. Auto blip works but a little 'flat' right now at low speed / revs, I think its a combination of the map (feels rich) and the cams (engine is a bit grumpy low down). Only went to 5 clicks out of 9 though. Steering and chassis feels amazing. So much communication. When it had warmed up I sent it wheelspinning all the way down the road, opposite lock both ways, and it just felt so natural. Turning circle is very very good! Ergonomics brilliant, everything about the car just feels 'right'. The noise. The acceleration. Different league! Yours sincerely, Chuffed of chuffedsville
  2. 13 points
    Today was the day Stick some headphones on to hear the deeper grumble of the exhaust
  3. 13 points
    My DAD! & Dad's Dad was a car enthusiast too. A few years ago Dad's first car was a sporty Jowett convertible. He drives every day and for last 6+ years he's been driving an MX5 mk3 - with 2 speeding tickets and no bumps! Not unusual you think! But he is now in his mid 90's and has just completed a power upgrade..... So proud of him. & so wish to be as sprightly and able to burn up the highways when I reach his age. (and be able to afford to)
  4. 13 points
    Since having my aeroscreen fitted I hadn’t given a full screen any thought untill I was killing time in the garage and found my old pillars and plastic mirrors..They were looking tired and the plastic had faded a bit and in general looked scruffy ,so I thought about giving them a makeover . I picked them up today and they looked like this got them done at a place called Hydrov8 in Peterborough by a great bloke called Chris . Top job . I may even put them on from time to time.
  5. 12 points
    Very heavy tail wind down into Turn 1 Furthest the new speed series t shirt has traveled I expect
  6. 11 points
    Ol' Meatypants on it with the puns lately, keep em coming Anyway, Tuesday. Quite a mission in the end. Arrived on time, but only just thanks to a stranded lorry only a few hundred metres from EFI Parts - air brakes stuck on. When I arrived there was a rough-sounding Renault 5 Turbo on the dyno, which had been having issues all day. Eventually I got my car on the rollers an hour and a half late, after having dropped the rear door / ramp of my trailer directly onto my right big toe. The blood in the photo above is only a very small portion of what eventually ended up all over the car park So, a good start... I already knew the car started and ran well, so it was time to show Chris around the Woolich software and the auto tune functions. Except he didn't trust the auto tune, so we ended up doing the map iteratively, with a reflash of the ECU between each change. This works great for a standalone ECU, but when each flash of the Honda ECU takes about 8 minutes... well... you get the idea, hence only finishing at 9:30pm. The Woolich system also, annoyingly, wants to keep the fuel pump running while writing, so I had to disconnect each time. And with the power on and water temp about 70 degrees, the water pump was running also, so I was disconnecting that too I forgot to reconnect it at one point, so during a full throttle run saw about 110 degree water temp, up from 70 within a couple of seconds, which left coolant all over the floor. However - it proves the water pump and cooling system works (car stayed perfectly at temp the rest of the time), also showed the lemon juice bottle works exactly as intended. After the spillage issue, the system sucked the 'tank' dry once it cooled down and so re-filled the system. No significant softening of the bottle either. Happy days. At this point the car started wildly rev blipping while going into 1st, and gear change was becoming troublesome. Hmm. Chris - used to meaty sequential boxes in his 900bhp drag car - had been giving the shift lever so much beans it had bent one of my shift linkages! Luckily it was steel so could bend it back, but the damage was done. Luckily I managed to come up with a way to hold it in position while he went up through the gears, but with this leaving my hand only an inch or two from the prop, I was glad to be able to retreat from the car before it started getting too lairy. I'd been checking header temps with an IR gun and they looked good - 20 degrees or so hotter at the middle two, which is to be expected as they have a bit less chance to cool than pots 1 and 4, so leaving the standard Honda fuel balancing seems to work. So, power. I'd written the ignition map myself a few months back, using the Honda OE as the base, but then following conversations with Andy Bates and looking at some Woolich maps, decided to change it and add more advance at the top end, getting to around 36 degrees at full chat (Andy reckons he uses 40!). We went through the low rpm regions of the map, around 2600 to 5000, using the auto tune and it pulled out some sensible data. Applying changes made the right sort of corrections. It was clear there was a problem though - my heart sank when Chris suggested the clutch may be slipping... Luckily we identified it as wheel slip, phew! A note - don't take track tyres or slicks to a dyno if you have road tyres, sounds daft but the road tyres grip the rollers much better Once we'd adjusted the straps to pull down more vertically, taken some air out of the tyres, and added @maurici to the rear of the chassis, it seemed happier and stopped slipping (huge thanks to you mate for coming along to hold my hand, I was pretty nervous about the whole thing!). Now it was time to do some sweep tests at higher throttle openings. Chris was a little skeptical of the ignition timing but he had connected up a knock sensor just in case. The first pull saw the car jump out of the rollers momentarily, which was bl**** scary, and 225bhp on the screen! He explained this was because of the wheel slip and the jump, but still I was feeling hopeful... Once the fuelling was closer (I had added a bit up top to ensure it was safe - was running in the 11:1 AFR region first pull) and we'd added more downward pressure to the back of the car, it was time for a proper pull or two. 211bhp / 92ftlbs was a consistent figure, with it still making power right up to 13300rpm There was still a touch of wheel slip, so even with the limiter set at 13500 the graph finishes at 13200. We had a few more runs retarding the timing each time to see if it would affect power - it didn't until we'd taken 6 degrees out, meaning we could leave it at 5 degrees less than at the start of the session, putting less strain on the engine and massively reducing the possibility of detonation. More runs at 80, 60, 40% throttle were done and the fuel and ignition tables smoothed between these sites. Final numbers - 210bhp and 92ftlbs (175bhp at the wheels). bl**** chuffed with that to be honest, given a few things. The home-bodged airbox - I was a little worried this might have cocked things up, but it seems not. The home made exhaust, again a huge potential to make a mess of this, but it seems to work great! The last 'Blade Chris did made 185bhp, and his dyno regularly under-reads compared with other places. He also suggested there may have been a few losses due to having to strap the car down so much. I think the biggest improvement will be in the partial throttle stuff though, the shapes of the ignition and fuel tables is vastly improved compared with the OE map. Injector balance (how much of the work the top and bottom injectors are doing) - before: Injector balance - after. Note the smoother transitions which will give less jerking as they come in and out, and top injectors doing a lot more work at full chat now. I believe this accounts for a good chunk of the extra power over OE, especially in the partial throttle regions. It made 120bhp at 40% throttle!! Fuel tables - the OE map is pretty smooth in this respect, has a weird spike at very low revs though, and a 'shelf' around 5000rpm which I am guessing is where the exhaust flap opens. After. Note how much more fuel keeps going in towards full revs, especially in the 100% TPS column. Moooorreee pooowweerrr And ignition - this is where the real driveability changes have been made. Honda do have to cope with loads of emissions, noise, fuel consumption etc regs though, which explains a lot of the choppiness and weird areas, such as that hugely advanced 'plateau' at around 20% TPS and 6000rpm. After - much smoother now! I think it's really important to see this sort of stuff, because so many mappers only do the full throttle column! This often leaves you with a complete dog at partial throttle, where you spend a heck of a lot of time, even on a track car. The dyno plot is produced from only a fraction of the total map (the blue section highlighted here): Haven't got the final dyno plots on me now, but will add them later. And to finish... 13500rpm of glorious noise! Hopefully will get onto sorting the shift linkage today, plus going over the car to check for leaks, other loose things etc, then maybe make a start on bodywork ready for Blyton Park on 27th April
  7. 11 points
    Final picture for the day before I zipped the car back in its Carcoon .
  8. 10 points
    Only a few small bits done in the last few days, was at Cadwell with Barny @BCF Friday and Saturday gathering some trophies in his ****ter instead! Had a few little jobs to tick off so set about those... Easiest one was chucking a jerry can of V Power in the tank. The fuel gauge reads 0% until there's about 3-4L in there due to the position of the sender, after that it's pretty much bang on 3% per litre (20L can was 60%). Handy to know! I'm going to have two maps, one for V Power and another with the timing backed off for road use and 95 RON fuel. The difference in bhp between these two could be as much as 10bhp I reckon, so worth doing. Catch tank - as standard the vapours from the crank case go straight into the airbox, not keen on this. Blocked off the airbox breather and made up a catch tank for the crank case. Ended up using the original fuel filler I bought, then lost, and by the time I'd found it had bought a nicer one But it worked out great here. Inlet pipe cut at an angle to help direct any fluids / vapour downwards, so it gets chance to condense before air comes out the mini filter at the top (still awaiting that - CBS been very slow this time!!). Alloy pipework for heat and weight reasons Also swapped front springs, set ride heights, tightened trailing arms and set front toe. Popped the speedo sensor in. Don't really need it, but the gear display on the dash works from it so decided that would be handy for the dyno. That boss on the crank case is in a perfect position, very handy! Then gave the car a run up and down on the industrial estate, only a short distance but allowed things to get up to temperature and do some logging, so I could make a start on mapping and learn how the Woolich auto tune works. Looking a bit better without the gaffer taped airbox and with the funky snout I can almost envisage it with a full body on........... Surprised myself again how fast the car is... These two passes are at a maximum of 38% and 41% throttle opening respectively, 'only' getting up to about 10500rpm after the rear tyres decided they'd had enough of sticking to the road Crackers. Despite the fairly high rpms and low speed, water temp sat a rock solid 78-79 degrees, happy days. I also tried downshifting without the clutch, using the auto blipper... IT WORKS! Very pleased and a bit surprised to be honest. Not sure how much I'll use that function given that grabbing the clutch lever isn't exactly a hardship, especially considering the consequences of botched downshifts, but it's nice to know it works as intended. By this point the car was obviously warm, so popped the fan on and noticed it was drawing quite a draught through the ducting - pretty cool! Mapping stuff... The Woolich system is pretty bloomin good. The auto tune software is both intuitive and very responsive. Basically you set a target AFR table as I explained earlier in the thread, drive the car, it logs AFR and RPM vs TPS (and IAP), then suggests what changes you should make to meet your target AFR. A few clicks, a reflash of the ECU (takes about 6 minutes) and it's done! On the rollers you simply hold engine rpm using the brake on the dyno, sweep the throttle from min to max TPS, up the revs by 500, repeat throttle sweep, etc. until all the rev range is done. They reckon you can do a full custom map in 20 minutes (and I believe them!). So, first pic - logged AFR. Blue cells are richer than my target, red cells are leaner than my target. This one shows the number of data points taken for each cell. As you can probably figure out, the engine idles around 1200rpm. Again, blue is too rich, red is too lean. This is the suggested changes in percent. Again blue is rich, therefore negative numbers removing fuel, red the opposite - too lean, so fuel is added. You can see alraedy that even at low revs and moderate throttle openings it is running lean... So that means more fuel needed than standard = moorreee powweeerrr The graphical representations of these are cool too. Quite big changes needed - some regions it's taken out 17% fuel, and others it's put in as much as 30%! That one looks like a slight anomaly though, so I have set the software to make maximum changes of 20% (and minimum number of data points as 2). As far as I'm concerned it's ready to go on the dyno now, if I can get a few other bits done (like adding bodywork!) I will, but not going to stress about it. Really can't wait to see what sort of figures it makes I'm gonna go for 205bhp and 135Nm at the crank. Place your bets now! Closest wins... something yet to be decided.
  9. 10 points
    At last after a few frustrating weeks I’m back on the road As someone with limited knowledge but willing to have a go ,without this resource and the members I’d be lost ( or paying a garage ). One of the reasons I’d always wanted a westfield was so that I could learn the mechanical side of things as well as enjoy the driving . Thanks to you lot I can now do my own servicing, I’ve upgraded my radiator sorted My starter motor and electrical problems and my freewheel is up and running .Id like to say a big thanks to @Thrustyjust who always comes to my help ,his advice has been welcomed on many occasions on varying topics. Mike @Kit Car Electronics For sending me a freewheel package ready soldered with all the information to enable me and a mate to fit it Also for being good enough to give me his phone number on his Saturday afternoon off to help 2 people who didn’t really know that much get it working .It really is not that complicated and a great bit of kit (My favourite upgrade yet ) @Jon Wilkinson who was a Godsend with my electrics ,(turns out he’s an Auto electrician ) Without the above and indeed all of you the forum I’d be lost ,With you I’m gaining experience growing in confidence and ultimately one day may be able to build a car of my own .See you all at Stoneleigh . For anyone that’s not seen a freewheel yet here’s mine get one .. Steve
  10. 10 points
    Now imagine a Subaru Impreza and this is what's he done.....and he's even fitted the scoop the wrong way round. I don't think this is even going to help with cooling....livid
  11. 10 points
    Took ‘Sparky’ to the local car wrap shop today and had some stripes fitted.
  12. 9 points
    Buttercup earlier today.
  13. 9 points
    Steipping the wishbones off last weekend, for blasting and powder coating was something of a horror story in its own right, , but removing the rear first gave me a bit more access to get in with the nylon stripping wheels mounted to the angle grinder. I’d originally thought it would just be the usual case of get any loose powder coat and rust off. It in this case, as soon as I exposed bare metal, even under seemingly good, solid powder coat I’d still pick up rust traces. So ended up having to really aggressively strip the rear back. I soon ran through the couple of stripping discs I had. While I had the angle grinder out, a small surgical operation was performed, to remove the old spare wheel carrier mounts. A package of five 3M Scortchbrite discs arrived this week, ready for the weekend’s work. It took another three yesterday, along with drill mounted wire brushes and the trusty Black and Decker powerfile to clear 90% off the powder coat off. The remainder in the inaccessible to power tool areas was taken off with paint stripper and wire wool, by hand. Incidentally, since the changes in the law over here, none of the really good on powder coat chemical strippers, which were based on dichloromethane (sp?) are available any more. Modern versions of old favourite general strippers, like Nitromors don’t even mark the surface. The best easily findable one I’ve used so far is this stuff, which softens it pretty well with a couple of applications, and seems to lift most off eventually. I finally ended up at this stage. The photo above shows the chassis with all the loose stuff and worst affected areas stripped right back. It wasn’t necessary to strip all the powder coat off everywhere, some sections did seem clear of hidden rust. As I’m using POR15 - designed to seal and encapsulate rust, it’s not actually necessary to grind it all off either, just remove all the loose stuff. In the picture, the chassis has been washed/degreased with Marine Clean, mixed down 5:1 with hot water, then scrubbed in and rinsed off. Followed by a liberal brushing over of Metal Prep solution, which once left to activate, was rinsed off this morning. Before allowing the chassis to dry. Followed finally, by several hours of hand painting POR15 on. That all now needs to cure thoroughly, before it can be top coated next weekend, and I can start rebuilding the back end. in between waiting for stages to dry, I cleaned up the read damper assemblies and removed the old springs, here you can see the new 1” longer 225lb springs (Black) alongside the original, (mostly) white ones! the new 9” springs were just too long to go on without a compressor, doh, that’s why 8” are used normally! As my old standard spring compressor wasn’t even close to working I took the angle grinder to it and re-shaped the hooks to suit the much smaller 1.9” OD springs and the (relatively) much bigger damper body. Took quite a bit of fettling, but it’s done now, and they’ll work next time without any tweaks! Mad all fitted. As a starting point, I’ve set the heights to roughly what they were, less an inch, then I can wind them down a bit from there, once on the car, to allow for the greater rate. So, about those wishbones... The fronts had a few medium sized chunks of powder coat come away while removing them, obviously, revealing rust underneath. But nothing like the horror story of the rears. The rears have sat quietly dropping powder coat in little heaps in the garage all week. Everytime I walked past them, there seemed less powder coat and must dust and flakes on the floor. So much so, that I decided, rather than to waste time removing the metalastic bushes, I was going to ship them down to Westfield, and ask Mark to confirm if he even thought they were salvageable, given the car’s power level, and if so, get them to remove the bushes and send them back. (I’d pay, for the bush removal and carriage, obviously). At the same time, I was also working on a plan B. And I’m so relieved Plan B. came off. Looking at the rears again on Saturday after even more powder coat had come off, I was really deeply uneasy about reuse without proper testing. Thankfully, by that point, I’d already arranged to buy a full set of never fitted front and rear ‘bones from Terry. I’m going to condemn the old rears myself, and scrap them, as a precaution. Though the fronts, would be perfectly reusable after blasting and re-powdercoating, (once they’ve had the bushes removed, of course!) This morning therefore, I took a run up to sunny Lamcashire, and collected Terry’s old wishbones. I am going to get them stripped and re-done, even though they’ve never been fitted; my local powder coaters will thoroughly media blast them, before zinc primeing them, and then powder coating them properly. They’re always going to be an exposed item, that see’s wear in use. But hopefully I can get considerably more life out of the new set. Oh, and i’ll Protect the leading edges in particular, that tend to take all the stone chips, with leading edge tape.
  14. 9 points
    Shows my lack of experience with all things electrical A 12 hour stint yesterday and it looks like nothing much has changed, but I guess that's what it takes to make (to my eyes) wiring (at least fairly) neat and tidy. Also had a bit of a mare with the kill switch, I'd modified it slightly to clear the prop, but that had shot bits of plastic into the connections admit dropped working. Stumped me for a bit! The two switches at the top of the panel facing the driver are for headlights, and fan on / both off / fan and water pump on. The first two are fairly self explanatory, the third function allows the car to be cooled while turned off (eg. sitting in the paddock after a run). PS: To the eagle-eyed, sadly no heatwave in the North yesterday, I'd just run the engine for a few seconds to test I'd got the re-wiring correct! Engine bay looking pretty neat I've made a mini loom for all the senders, fan and water pump, which hides along / underneath the chassis rails and all comes out in the top corner of the drivers footwell panel. And the power arena. Battery live cables all no more than 6" long before they meet a fuse or breaker. Earth lead from the battery, which will be yellow, sticks up so easy to identify and chop if necessary. Reg/rec raised up to help cooling and mounted on rubber bobbins to damp vibrations. Starter, charging and fuel pump fuses easily accessible. So that's phase 1 of the wiring complete. Though I'll move the ECU and need to find a home for the HISS. Then its time to bleed up the brakes, throw some wheels on and drive it out the workshop
  15. 9 points
    So, as a few of you have already guess, I had the pleasure to interrogate none other that Adge C . Was great to have an afternoon with him and the South Western guys and girls at Castle Coombe supporting our sprint guys in their groups and other club members in the Mini. Obviously after he was asking who the next candidate could be last week after Tim's write up, amazingly Adge received the PM to say he was next . ' Who would have guessed that !' was his reply. Now, I don't want to ask the same old questions 'all' the time, so , apart from car related ones, I did throw a couple of side tracking ones . So if you do wish to meet me for question time , then be aware that not all the questions are the same. Remember Stoneleigh is not far away , so you could be called upon . You can tell me to sod off, that's not a problem So, without any more waffling from me, I took to Google Somerset Translation , to assist me in working out what was being said to me. So, Adge , you know the score ! ................... Er............. Ok, So, Adge, what is your name ? It is actually Alan Francis Cutler . The nickname Adge has been a long standing name from many years ago Any other names ? Yes, from my interview from Complete Kit Car, I had a name change to Martin. Chap was a bit of a wally ( Lets hope all interviewers aren't considered this ? ) Age ? I am 67 years young Occupation ? I am happily retired . I used to be a nuclear powerstation engineer . Any links to the Worzels ? Only by nick name as that was the lead singers name . ( Glad it wasnt the original lead singer, as he would have been re-incarnated as died in a crash many years ago) Why build a Westfield? Always been into cars from an early age. Used to have a Morris 8 and drove it round the orchard. Spent a lot of my time tinkering with cars and the usual family and married life took precedence. Used to enjoy road rallying and bought a motor home and toured Europe in 2014. That year also went to Goodwood and went to the Westfield stand and looked at the cars. Practicality at that point wasnt there , so bought an MX5 . Then a family bereavement meant we didn't need the MX 5 , so that was sold and went to the factory after the financial controller gave the nod and bought the ST250 kit. Was the build done in the time frame you had hoped ? It was far quicker that I had planned. I set my sights on 18 months to 2 years, but the reality was it was done in 9 months. What was the most awkward part of the build ? Definitely the scuttle and wipers. Took so much time to get them to line up and fit properly. Must admit that without the help of many Westfield builders on the forum , especially Steve for the ST bits , I would have been much further behind with solving issues . So, the forum is fantastic for helping builders with questions needing answers quickly. Anything you built, you wish you did different ? Trying to sort this rattle out I have. I believe I may have made the steering column mouse hole or pedal box too tight to the scuttle as the diagnosis I need to resolve. Was the IVA test as daunting as people make it sound ? No, not at all. It was a really nerve wracking experience , not just the day but leading up to it. But the test was good. I had the support of the local guys, who spent a Saturday evening going through the car , to check it before I went for the test, which was fantastic. Anything you want to change on the car ? I have just changed the tyres and hope they work better for me and the car , so thats about all at the moment. How long have you been in the club ? 2016 I joined just when I bought the kit What came first the car or the club ? I joined the club before the car was made and can definitely say its well worth being a member here. Carbon Fibre ? Yes, I have cycle wings , rear diffuser, wing mirror covers and Mick Made chassis rail protectors, which I covered in clear film as look so good , I dont want to mark them ! What do you use the car for mainly ? We love just going out as a retired couple and enjoying nice drives when we want to. We have runs out with the Dorset group too . Also went to Classic Le Mans and France for a week last year. Anything planned this year ? Stoneleigh , of course ! , Isle of Man for a holiday, Devon run , trip to Tring and Bletchley Park and Classic Kitcar show in November , so far. Can you explain what a Grockle is ? Its a ( probably be bleeped) holiday maker passing through Somerset. Have you used all the wood in the garage as yet or is it still a big pile ? Slowly its going down, but then I go shopping and think, that's a nice piece of wood and buy it, so I keep finding more ! Is retirement all its cracked up to be ? Oh yes ! and some. I love having this time to myself and playing cars and playing wood . Its great. Name a celebrity who you would allow a pax seat for a ride in the Westie ? Oh, well , I can't really have a conversation with the person , so need someone pleasing to the eye, so I would say Susan George from the 70's Now, i had to google her and in way of Adge's car being black and white, so is the picture of the lady in question. Still alive and a bit more wrinkly, but he did mention 'In the 70's' So, after spending a very pleasant afternoon in the company of Adge and the south west crew, the latest wife and myself had to head off home. Was fab to chat to you Adge and catch up at Stoneleigh in May.
  16. 9 points
  17. 8 points
    Finished my last winter upgrades, finally fitted my mk 2 version carbon cycle wing brackets First photo before trimming And at long last changed my dash light bulbs to LED LED bulbs fitted Steve
  18. 8 points
    My father taught me how to ride a motorcycle when I was 13, I rode a bike all year round until about 15 years ago when following a slide down a wet road on my knees my family bought me driving lessons for Christmas... So I was over 50 when I passed my test, my first car was an Alfa Romeo Spider which I adored... it was followed by a variety of cars but I always had a love of Alfas. Makes me smile that I had trouble getting insured for my Spider, Saga and Sheila's wheels.. not interested! Almost 4 years ago the Alfa Romeo I loved was hit by a KTM Superduke doing 120 mph, head on. The ensuing fire ended the life of the biker at the scene and my husband 3 days later. I inherited his Westfield and although it was built by him on a shoestring almost 20 years ago I am so proud to drive it and drive it I do - constantly.
  19. 8 points
    Finished last night. 9hrs 20minutes.
  20. 8 points
    need to check tyre pressures not been out in a while
  21. 8 points
    Dashboard template
  22. 8 points
    First time out in the wild today
  23. 8 points
    Nice day for a drive around the South Downs with the sun making the colour(s) pop. Any other owners around Sussex?
  24. 7 points
    So, not an awful lot been going on with the build of late bar some tidying of wires at the front really. All the wiring other than final connection to the rear lights (not yet fitted) has now been done and tested. Found one small SNAFU at the front, I'd swapped the left & right indicator feeds when condensing connectors a long time back. Easily fixed. I had an abortive stab at the scuttle top but just couldn't get my head round the shape of the cutout needed to clear the A pillar where it passes through the 'shoulder' of the scuttle. Made lots of card scraps but not much else. Thankfully, another builder of the car has completely modelled it in CAD, and he was kind enough to plot out the intersection profile for me into a PDF. Very happy with the results of his efforts Just need to finish turning this into a template then making it in metal. I'll have a similar challenge at the back of the car where the C pillar intersects the top/side curve of the panel. Hopefully I can use the profile from the front to get me started, but I know it won't be correct as it is. Good job I bought lots of card for CAD use. Before I can finalise this part though, I need to decide what to do at the front and back edges of the scuttle. Do I have an overlap. If so, front, back or both, if yes, how large. If yes, how do I trim it to look OK and satisfy the radius requirements. At the front edge, I need to consider how it matches up with the 'bonnet' too. Most of the answers I am coming up with seem to require some skills and/or equipment I don't possess. To further complicate things, I need to be able to remove the front face of the scuttle and the 'dash' which means being careful about any material overlaps I might build in. I don't really want to resort to just sticking some plastic P profile in the joint, but it might end up at that. If you've been following the 3D printing thread in Tech Talk, you've probably seen I've not been alone in spending some of my time messing with that. The suspension bracket covers came out pretty well in the end. It's a two-piece part, held in place by slight interference with the bolthead & nut, and where the two sides meet at the very thin section (bottom of the picture) there is a pin made from a piece of filament to keep it aligned and snug (thanks for that tip @nice_guy) The two parts were printed in different materials and different orientations for testing - I'll decide which is best later. I also have a more open design that just covers the edges of the square tubes and uses ordinary separate nut covers to, well, cover the nuts, but it doesn't really have anything holding it firmly in place so tends to rattle about a bit. It can't come off as it's trapped in place, but it isn't ideal, so I'll probably go with this much more bulky design. Hopefully the IVA man will appreciate the effort. I might have got away with the brackets un-protected as I did blunt the cut edges a bit, with just nut covers on the bolt, but I don't want to risk it for the sake of a couple of quid of printing filament. And I needed to do something about an inlet for the air filter box. The donor car was missing the OEM bit, but it was a badly formed flimsy plastic thing of the wrong shape for this car anyway, so no great loss. I designed a two-part replacement which came out nicely (about 20 hours on the printer in total) and fits a treat. Only thing it could do with if I ever have to print another would be some sort of grip/lugs on the inner collar so it can be gripped for tightening. As it is, it's a bit tricky but not worth a reprint just for that I don't think. In situ. This is the cold area of the engine bay in front of/to the left of the gearbox, so hopefully the PLA plastic I used will be OK with the environment here. There will be a fresh air inlet in the side panel of the car here too. For orientation, this is looking from the left side of the car, left rear tyre just visible on the bottom right hand corner of the frame.
  25. 7 points
    Mine. Don't have a brake pipe union near the tub, and also don't run side repeaters, don't see the point as MOT never look for them. I cut mine at an angle to follow the line of the bonnet/scuttle.
  26. 7 points
    Things seems to be coming together quite nicely, if a little slower than planned on the car front. It is running though, and have dyno on Tuesday: Hoping no more than a month to get it road legal now Also been up to Scotland this week and completed 4 consecutive days of Munro-bagging, each of them 'bigger' and considerably more technical than Ben Nevis. Day 3 was a killer, equivalent in distance and elevation change to doing the easiest route up (and down) Snowdon 3 times! Conditions up there are kind though, with little snow even over 1000m, so it looks like I've picked a good year!
  27. 7 points
    I needed somewhere better than the dining room/living room to store the new tub, so as the old one is now off... Mind you, lots of work to be done before I can fettle and fit it properly, but at least I’m not falling over it every day, now!
  28. 7 points
    Well as I said yesterday I was getting the car mapped today. It was such a miserable drive there. The car ran terribly and the weather was miserable. I couldn't wait to get out of the thing. I can't remember feeling as cold as when I got there. I guess the bright side is that it did make it there and I didn't actually have hypothermia, regardless of how it felt. We soon had it strapped down and ready to go. The nerves were definitely showing at this point. Nick then started to work his magic, taking one of his maps and changing the basic settings for my setup. He had it idling nicely in about 5 mins. I was happy, but also annoyed as I couldn't get it to do it at all. After this was done it was time to make some noise on the dyno. There were lots of runs with fine tuning inbetween them. The power and torque figures slowly increasing. Here's the end result. 233bhp at the wheels with 202ftlbs torque. I'm really happy with their results! You can see 2 lines on the graph, the red line is my map and the green is what we had originally. The difference is that the torque comes in more gradually. The drive home was much better, dry and with a car behaving itself. It drives better now than when it was in the Mazda. Worth every last penny. I'd highly recommend Skuzzle Motorsport.
  29. 7 points
    Another long day in the workshop! I've sorted out the tweaks we made to the oil pressure system, fixed a weep on a coolant hose, fitted the expansion tank (photo below, just for you @Archibald Meatpants, #teamtanks), tidied some wiring, filled the diff, fired it up again, Maurici worked out a better way to bleed the cooling system, we tested that (video below), tried the clutch and it works great (initial bite point when the lever is about 20mm from the shift lever), auto blip on downchange works nicely too! Coolant amount was just under 3.5L, oil about 4L, so both of them less than expected, an easy way to 'save' a couple of kilos Lemon goes well with prawns so I figure it will with lobster too? I know a guy who does cooling stuff for footballers cars and he says this works right: The Chinese **** is the big red numbers, that's taking a reading in the thermostat housing on the head, the dash reads top hose to radiator. Oil pressure is perfect at 70psi cold, 15ish when warmed up. Oil cooler works great but I think the stat line opens at less than the 82 degrees advertised, one side of the pipework gets warm at around 65 degrees. Still, that's enough for the oil to flow well. After all that I took all the wiring off again so I could start to place components in position, ready for final wiring. Actually really enjoyed that bit and looking forward to having it done! Oh and also changed springs and did corner weighting / a setup on Mauricis car, changed a lower ball joint on my track MX5 (using big hammer and an actual fire, a bit scary), and packed up two roll bars, a set of wheels and a pair of seats. Phew. Time for a rest. By that I mean go and pick my girlfriend up from the airport... no rest for the wicked
  30. 7 points
  31. 7 points
    We pressed the button and nothing happened. I'd connected the starter input on the loom to ground rather than 12v Then we wrested for a few hours ******g about chasing what I thought was no oil pressure. Andy Bates had told me I'd see 3-4 psi from turning it over with the plugs out, but nada. Hoses off, connectors off, senders off, oil everywhere. Still no pressure from turning over on the starter. So Maurici grew a pair of balls and decided there must be pressure from the tests we'd done, and we should fire it up. Fired immediately first time Warms up exactly as expected, perfect oil pressure just took a few seconds to build / register, thermostat, water pump and fan work exactly as intended, no leaks now I actually tightened one of the fuel line hose clips properly, oops. So chuffed! Plenty more work to do but I can book the dyno now.
  32. 6 points
    Hey all, new member and new Westfield owner Im in Tassie so just about as far away from the uk as you can get but if your ancestors stole bread, we are probably related. The car is an Aussie built Westfield running a Toyota 4AGE with Quaife gearing and lsd. Joined the forum a few weeks ago for research and ended up buying. Loving it so far and really just posting to say thanks for the wealth of information Inhave found. Joined as a member to do my bit despite my location. Stu
  33. 6 points
  34. 6 points
    Westfield Sports Cars have an advert out for Stoneleigh with a great link to the club. https://mailchi.mp/westfield-sportscars.co.uk/autosport2018-970041 A big thank you from me for a start...
  35. 6 points
    Hi Don I have a garage we use the forte flushes, we sell them out when needed at £15. Good product when used for the right needs. If you take you car to a forte good garage scheme member that's the deal they are going to operate to what they agreed, chuck additives in!! I had the forte rep in on Friday, stands there in front off a customer spouting how much profit I could make if I just put one on every service, also why I should be a good garage member!! As I pointed out to him I don't need his advertising as our days are always full of honest work, we don't need to chase work, we also will not just charge people for products there car doesn't need! Why would one of our regular customers, who's car we have looked after with the correct spec oil need a flush?? He seems to think you can just keep adding things on the bill and the customer will be over the moon!! This is how it should be; The customer who was there whilst forte man rattled on was new to us and had dropped in on recommendation. He needed a service on his just out of warranty Subaru Forester, so I showed him what Subaru say should be done on that service which was most filters and the transmission and diff oils. Subaru's schedule is on time or mileage which is normal but the customers car had done 17k miles from new in the three years, no heavy use or towing etc, so I suggested to the customer that we did a bespoke service pushing the trans and diff oils until next time, he was happy with that and we will document on the service book and paperwork what has been done with a plan to do that work on the next visit. Some customers would just say no just do the lot, looking after cars is just as much working with each customers needs and differing budgets.... My Westfield get its oil changed too often but that's my choice, one of our mechanics always saves my old oil for his daily driver! Always talk to the garage about what they are actually going to do. I regularly take customers in to the workshop to show and explain what's going on. They go away happy and then have no reason not to tell others to come and visit, hence no advertising needed or gimmicky schemes..
  36. 6 points
    Oh, and some bl**** nice sensors too - a couple of Indycar DW12 brake sensors - $700USD each when new! (but thankfully, 1/10th of that from a friendly source) along with steering angle and a McLaren high-speed air temp (will the car go fast enough to qualify for a high-speed air temp sensor tho? :-/ ). The brake pressure sensors handy not just for data logging but I want to have launch control ala the WRC cars where you arm launch by standing flat on the brake, arming it, go flat on the throttle (ECU controls the clutch) and then just sidestep the brake and away you go...
  37. 6 points
    Today was the day to finally get the rest of the old tub off, along with the interior side panels - though those, once re-trimmed will be going back on again, after the body work is done. Now I’ve got decent access though, I tackled a little job I’ve been hoping to do for a couple of years! For some reason, the hole, (pre-drilled) for my throttle cable to fit through the bulkhead in, was very offset compared to the pedal. This was never a problem with the original Honda throttle body and it’s matching cables, but within a few short miles became a reoccurring issue with the cables on the Omex throttle bodies. - the offset would cause them to saw into whatever cable holder I used, over time, leading to binding and drag. Better cables helped, they’d last a lot longer before cutting in, but there was always that but more drag. So I sourced a mini spherical bearing in a housing, that could be mounted on the bulkhead over an enlarged version of the existing hole, and via the nylon bearing, would allow the cable mounting to fit through the middle, and pull itself to whatever angle it needed to, to reach the pedal. The first step was to remove the pedal, so I could get access with a 10mm drill, to enlarge the hole. Here you can just about make out the end of the cable adjuster sticking through the new hole, checking it’s got room to move. You can sort of make out how close to the right hand side of the footwell the holes are. This is from the engine bay side, you can see the bearing here, with the adjuster mounted through the middle. Note it’s pushed over at an angle, checking for clearance. I had to use some short lengths of tube, slid over the adjuster, to space the ends away from the spherical bearing, to give space for it to pivot. Here it is bolted in, and from the engine bay.. The bearing holder is now riveted on to the bulkhead, to keep it nice and stable. I’ll seal around it with a smear of silicon, next. One final wiggle to make sure it can still swivel through enough of an angle, before refitting the pedal and cable. Now the cable mount effectively floats, and will pull straight to match the pedal, itself. Hopefully no more saw cuts into cable mounts!
  38. 6 points
    Ouch, sorry to hear that @RallyVW , don't mention to the dentist that you have joined a club that eats lots of sugary snacks, maybe not the best thing for teeth Us with lots of calcium phosphate still in our mouths met at Matlock and did the rather funny looking Westfield dance at the back of our cars, well that's what it looks like anyway. We took a spectacular route over the tops, all on B roads and away from main stream traffic, the views were good and the weather just got brighter as we headed West. We arrived at The Rudyard Hotel and one took one's lunch in the Ballroom. It was all a bit posher than we are used too but at 8.45 for a carvery you can't go wrong. The Rudyard Hotel Rudyard Lake After lunch we needed some teeth destroying sugar and those twisty's were waiting for us, so off we set up and over on a slightly different route back which included our favourite Crowdecote road. The MX5 club had the same idea and we joined the back of a convoy of 15 (I think that is how many Sue said she counted) of them. Glen said to me 'well that answers your question Julie - I wonder what the MX5 club get up to' It also reminded me why I drive a Westfield as the journey was a little tame, shall we say. We turned off at the next junction and resumed some proper motion in order to arrive at our cake stop in the Stone Centre, Wirksworth. Blimey, it was humidly warm so we sat outside and ate cake whilst looking at our cars, bliss. The panorama dance was soon employed by the dafter ones in the crowd, says she who delights in it! Chris, Mo, Andrew and us avoided a potentially busy Matlock Bath and headed home through Chatsworth Park where we saw a herd of deer. Martyn, Sue and Trevor took the Ca**ington route back, which I am sure looked lovely now the sun had come out. The Stone Centre It has been yet another successful day, with terrific driving roads, yummy food and just the best company you can wish for. Thank you tonnes to everyone for making the effort and travelling such a long way to join us, I hope you have all enjoyed it too
  39. 6 points
    Brilliant day out today at RAF Cosford, then followed a gorgeous BMW B9 3-5 ALPINA back home
  40. 6 points
    Worried that 20 month grandson is claiming his inheritance a little early. Gary
  41. 6 points
    So what's next after the car is almost ready for bodywork? Start taking it apart again of course Airbox modifications... had half planned these but mostly just cracked on and made it up as I went. Cut away the centre section and opened up the 'front' to approx twice the size. Riveted 1mm thick HDPE sheet in to blank everything off. The rivets have washers under the heads and they are the other side of the air filter from the throttle bodies anyway. HDPE is brilliant stuff to work with. This thickness can be cut with sharp scissors, drilled, bent with the heat gun, and it's pretty damn tough. Part of this job was also tweaking the loom slightly so I could re-home the ECU. As standard it sits in the top cover for the airbox and this is pretty tall... But with the ECU moved I could knock up an alloy plate instead. Before... After I could have gone down the full AB Performance airbox route but with little change from a grand it it still not going under my bonnet I thought I might as well give the homebrew version a go! Last little job, because I like my throttle cable in one piece... A much underestimated component - throttle pedal stop (hard to see but an alloy bar coming out sideways from the pedal, which hits the chassis). Prevents too much tension going into the cable at full throttle. Also ticked off a few other jobs from the pre-dyno essentials to-do list, not much remaining now before bodywork starts to happen.
  42. 6 points
    After deciding not to sell and keep my car, one thing I wasn’t keen on was the colour so I decided to get it wrapped below are the results gloss black with carbon nose and bonnet let me me know what you think?
  43. 6 points
    Picked up the link pipes today after welding. They had been cleaned up on the polisher but not quite as polished as I'd like so this afternoon gave them another going over. Quite good now. Maybe another finish polish once they're on the car (hopefully tomorrow)
  44. 6 points
    How do you like your wiring? All on show please! A few more hours and she should be ready to fire up again...
  45. 6 points
    Was hoping my dad would be the first to start my car but I couldn't contact him. Here is a vid of it starting, sorry the light is bad but it gets dark up north on a night. It's dark but I am smiling.
  46. 6 points
    Managed to get out in both cars this weekend - quick blat around Yeovil and surroundings in the Eleven yesterday and then Burrington Combe (B3134) and Cheddar Gorge (B3135) in the SEIW today - roll on the Summer.
  47. 6 points
    160 glorious miles completed today - now the car is setup you can really press on and make great progress. Pleased to report the NS-2R’s appear to be performing great even in the patchy conditions in the Dales today. Managed to meet @Geoffrey (Buttercup) - North Yorkshire AO And a couple of others but only for a very short period. Nice to meet some other owners out and about. The new gear know really completes the driving experience in the cabin. Sorry no pictures from the drive as I was having too much fun behind the wheel. I did get home to find the rubber exhaust mount had snapped - fixed it with a bolt through the centre. Here is a picture when it’s clean again. All ready for a trackday at Blyton on Tuesday.
  48. 6 points
    Thats rubbish, you told me this was the inspiration
  49. 6 points
    Mines the vice brake, it makes bending small metal parts so much easier.
  50. 6 points
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.