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  1. Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

    Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

    Moderator


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      8

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      5,285


  2. CraigHew

    CraigHew

    WSCC Member


    • Points

      6

    • Content Count

      3,175


  3. Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

    Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

    Administrator


    • Points

      5

    • Content Count

      34,310


  4. Howsafe Workwear and Safety Equipment

    Howsafe Workwear and Safety Equipment

    WSCC Trader


    • Points

      4

    • Content Count

      448



Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/06/20 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Just a quick "well done" to the team pulling the magazine together. I found this issue had a slightly different feel in terms of content to previous editions. I really enjoyed the 5 or 6 articles describing what people were up to, improvements, modifications etc. More of that please in future....!
  2. 3 points
    I disagree. @Barnsley John has done a few mods for only a fiver each, if his wife is reading 😉
  3. 3 points
    OMG, he’s even using colour coded boxes to work on now! Someone really needs to get out and drive his car!!
  4. 2 points
    Agreed, I'd previously assumed posting on here was sufficient, but clearly there are people who enjoy reading articles in print, so I endeavour to submit more in future.
  5. 2 points
    Jeeez I remember that - back in the day there used to be a little sprint/auto-test circuit set-up where you could rock up and drive your car against the clock, it was part of the Stoneleigh Show from mid/late 80's (ssssshhhhh don't tell the MSA) 😁. Saw a few cars hit the kerbs and limp out 🤕. All long before the risk assessment and H&S team stopped the fun. Russ Swift was a regular, used to turn up with a few mini's (proper ones) and do some demo shows on Avenue M - usually in front of the WSCC stand - Area was simply roped off and off he went, J-Turning and sliding around burning some hard pumped up rubber
  6. 2 points
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Another thought,I presume you're using the pressure switch for brake lights? How's it orientated? if the electrical side is too raised, it can trap air bubbles. (Equally, a faulty or failing switch can give trouble).
  9. 1 point
    The main causes of pad retraction tend to be, as Ian mentioned, knock-back, or a problem Westfield's (or any car with floor mounted pedals and MC's can suffer) is the fluid drain back effect, as the reservoirs are so low, compared to the calipers. On most cars with higher mounted reservoirs, the "weight" of the fluid above the level of the calipers is enough to keep the pads in close contact with the disks. Residual pressure valves effectively replicate this pressure. However, the usual way this manifests itself in terms of "feel" at the pedal, is that without the valve, you get a little bit of a longer pedal the first time you apply the brakes, which disappears if you quickly press them again. What doesn't normally happen though, is for that behaviour to change over time. ie it will happen from the get-go, not appear gradually after a week or two's driving. Is it possible the master cylinders seals could be compromised? (or any of the calipers seals?)
  10. 1 point
    No need to bow @CraigHew every day's a school day etc. This diagram (a typical one, not neccarily the one in the car affected) may help: So there will be always some air above the fluid level, however it's the air free fluid below, that enters the intake port and hence shouldn't contain any air which would lead to the spongy feeling etc.
  11. 1 point
    Perhaps worth checking your m/c cap to make sure its seated and sealing correctly.
  12. 1 point
    Tech articles are great and one of the main problems is that clever members doing clever technical things can be shy about writing an article because they fear criticism - they shouldn’t be. No one is going to be critical and @PeterOz will do fix any spelling or grammar errors. Please folks, it’s your club and your magazine and it needs your contributions.
  13. 1 point
    Shes 8 months pregnant (i really hope youve not been using her ) so not much help at the moment
  14. 1 point
    weeks of driving, mostly short road runs. I shall try FART-ing tonight just the top nipples i bleed on the rears Re the retracting pistons - without pads, i can actually see them move backwards ever so slightly when pressure is released
  15. 1 point
    Have you tried bleeding it the old fashioned way with the wife on pedal pumping duties? I always get better results that way (although I don’t use your wife)
  16. 1 point
    Is this after a week of driving or after a week of standing still? Have you tried FART- Final Air Removal Technique- After bleeding- put a piece of wood on the pedal and brace against rollbar or seat to keep pedal firm overnight. This should remove small bubbles. The seals don't really pull the pistons back, they normally get pushed back in when the disc rotates. No disc is perfectly true and hence a very tiny run out pushes the pads and hence the pistons back. When you re-bleed are you only opening the top two nipples on the rears and leaving the bottom nipples alone? Perhaps try bleeding one calliper at a time only, to see if it's only one calliper that's affecting the feel or whether it's just the fronts or just the rears? Does sound rather odd, as if air is getting in, you'd expect fluid to be coming out somewhere. I can only further suggest you clean all unions and dry and then revisit after a week to see if any signs of fluid.
  17. 1 point
    Simon ---I hope top be able to post something tonight
  18. 1 point
    I hope this doesn't shock the current owner, if it's still on the road etc-
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    All I can say is good luck with the wiring....... it really is amazing what some people think is acceptable. re the bodywork tabs, I’m just waiting for my cage to be delivered but won’t be removing them as they locate / support the tub and with out them there would be very little to stop any tub flex / movement . Simply sandwich in between the cage foot and steel plate.
  21. 1 point
    Interesting how experiences vary so wildly. I can only speak to my own. Have two Cteks, both work perfectly well and have been in use on the same batteries for literally years with no ill effects. OEMs supply Ctek manufactured devices for this same purpose. I wonder, could the ones @Lyonspride had actually been cheap copies rather than genuine items??
  22. 1 point
    No not got mine , I spoke to Patrick @Westfield Parts Dept about ten days ago, AP told me they where ready to post out obviously not. Tony
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    If you can’t stay overnight or have toilets open how is any event possible at the moment ?
  25. 1 point
    32mm Datsun 240Z Top Hose S Hose
  26. 0 points
    Just a refresh I said, it'll be easy I thought... A voyage of discovery... Check out the wiring for the rear lights... Main earthing connection at the back... And when it all inevitability stops working... no bother... just run random wires and drill random holes as shown for the fog and reversing light.... need to cut away some fiberglass... just go captain caveman on its ass... (I also presume the bullet hole effect was all the rage in 1996) .... and do I spy some 15mm copper piping holding the exhaust in place... oh yes I do... More of a winge than an update... But now for a genuine question... When fitting full caged lazer / westfield rollcage do these tabs / fibreglass lips get chopped off?
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