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Found 40 results

  1. Wednesday, 13 September 2017 OK time to start my build thread, been on the forum now for a few months, joined in with the “Yorkshire breakfast club” run by Robin most months where I have had a great reception, and made some new friends and obtained a hell of a lot of great advice. Had a lot of my questions answered by people on here, as well as help in choosing the options to go for on my order, and fantastic reading of the other sport 250 build threads, which I still keep going back and re-reading, so a huge thanks to all here. Ordered my Sport 250 early June, and today hired (13th September) 2 fellows in a van through Facebook to come and pick me up in Yorkshire, drive to Westfield and pick up my kit, and then home again. Was a little bit stressed when they turned up in a van without a tail-lift, but it all ended well as I have already got my Ex-farther-in law’s engine hoist along with an engine balancer I bought to be able to get the engine off the van an into the gara ge. Was a good steady run, weather held out and the £260 was a bit of a bargain in my book, although they both smoked. I have opted to not pick up the body work at this time, as I didn’t see the point of trying to find a good place to keep it for many months, so a 2nd trip is on the cards once I get to the point of mounting the engine, as it’s about a 6-week lead time for my body shell. Still not set on colour, although Red is still favourite.
  2. BugMan

    Help - split sump from engine

    I'm just starting the swap out of my sump on the sport 250 following AdgeC process, and so far have drained the oil and coolant, removed quite a bit of the car to get to the bolts fixing the bell housing to the back of the Ford EcoBoost and have about 1mm separation between the 2. All the retaining bolts removed from the sump, and the 4 from the front timing cover, but can't get the sump to budge, given its fixed on with liquid sealant. Any suggestions welcome on how to separate the 2? Tried tapping around the sump with a copper-hide, no luck.
  3. I am Sayontan Seth,I have got the Sport 250 in INDIA, we are having some issues we the stock ECU setup as the ambient temperature and air pressure and fuel octane.The idle RPM is dropping fluctuating.The Idle RPM is dropping as low as 200rpm when after applying throttle to mid RPM and leaving it, and most of the time the Engine shuts down while doing like these. Can anyone help me to Re tune my ECU for 2L EcoBoost in my Sport 250?Also where can I get the ECU stock flash file?
  4. AdgeC

    Adge's Sport 250 build

    Hello all, afraid the time has come for me to start my threatened build thread!! After a crack of dawn start (for me anyway) arrived at Kingswinford. Spent a very enjoyable and informative three hours or so with Ian and the rest of the crew. Van expertly loaded by Ian, didn't move an inch on the return journey. Had a good look at the cars in build and took loads of photos, including a lot of the factory 250 which Ian was kind enough to raise on the ramp so that I could have a good poke about and photo all things hidden when it's on th ground. Obligatory shot of bits in the van. Quick offload of all the bits and boxes, and my garage/workshop is pretty full, (I admire any body who builds in a single garage), then take the van back. Next step, to sort through all the boxes and bits, unwrap the bodywork and store things in a semi logical order. Not had chance to do any sorting today, "the boss" had new flooring laid in the kitchen, therefore my day was spent disconnecting/reconnecing white goods. Shortening plinths, refitting doors (why is it never straightforward, or is it just me!) and all the other unforeseen things that these "quick" jobs seem to involve! I'm told the days my own tomorrow! after we take the dogs for run a on the soggy Somerset levels (weather permitting). So the the sorting can commence, then the real "fun" can begin. I'm aiming to make regular progress updates, and I'm sure I'll be seeking guidance from you "experts" along the way. Thank you for taking the time to read this. Adge
  5. BugMan

    fibreglass polishing

    While doing a quick horn replacement over the weekend a bit kit in my garage fell against the nose cone, and although its only a slight buff to the finish, I know it's there. Can anybody recommend a process to hopefully buff this out, as the only thing i have every used of a car was T-Cut I would have through to be to aggressive?
  6. BugMan

    Exhaust Wrap recomendations

    Well now I'm post IVA I'm starting to look at the refinements for the car. The IVA examiner also picked up on this, that the Sport 250 exhaust is likely to dry-out the top UJ in the steering, and advised to wrap it to keep the heat away from it. So I'm looking for any advice on choice of exhaust wrap from the forum and any tips on how to apply it as this is yet another new thing for me If given a choice I'd like it to be black, unless this compromises the performance, and only intend to wrap the first pipe to the edge of the body-shell, and my exit hole has about 10mm all the way around which in my mind will help with cooling, well a little bit anyway. Thanks in advance
  7. BugMan

    Door fixing

    Hi team, looking for a bit of help on how the fix the WF doors with the straps supplied? I've got a small bag with a pair M5 SS doom head nuts/bolts and some rivets with the pop studs but no real clue on where to fix them to the door or the inside of the passenger compartment?
  8. BugMan

    Steering wheels

    On my immediate list of thing I'd like to change will be the steering wheel, had a quick look about, but confused and looking for some suggestions and why. https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/steering-wheels I ideally want a slightly larger wheel as I'm coming from years of cars with power steering, but also want a larger space above the center so allow vision of my AIM dash. I'm also planning this as a "Quick Release" replacement shaft/boss http://go-race.co.uk/shop/4582749947/westfield-steering-column-quick-release-boss/10740708
  9. AdgeC

    Sport 250 Sump Change

    Presume Tech Talk is the place for this? Posted with apologies to non 250 owners for the long diatribe. For fellow 250 owners interested in fitting a shallow sump, below is a guide that may be useful. I make no claims that this is THE way to do it, just the way that worked for me, following advice gratefully received from Steve sdh2903. WESTFIELD SPORT 250 - FORD ECOBOOST 2.0L SHALLOW SUMP FIT Parts. Needed:- A) Sump Pan - Pt No. N418752 from Power Torque Engineering - £249 inc del. B) Oil Pump Pickup (called Screen & Cover by Ford!) - Pt No. 5110434 + Gasket (seal) from local Ford dealer - £39.80 C) Balance Shaft Delete Kit - Ford Ecoboost/2.3L Mazda MZR - Various suppliers, got mine from PMP (Performance Mazda Parts) - £52.52 D) Sump Plug (M14 X 1.5) - (Existing Ecoboost different size) - Various suppliers, got mine from Opie Oils, Gold Magnetic Sump Plug AP-08 - £13.54 E) Timing Chain cover bolts (M6 X 20 + washers - 4off) - (Existing bolts too long) - Basic 8.8 bolts, nothing fancy. F) 5L engine oil + Oil Filter (MANN W77 or equivalent) - Various suppliers, got oil from Ford - £28.93 and filter from Eurocarparts - £6.49 (Since bought for £3.25 on offer!) G) Loctite 243 Threadlock, Loctite 5910 Gasket Sealant, or similar. Total cost £352.48 excluding consumables (M6 X 20 bolts, threadlock and sealant). Following my experience, would advise carefully inspecting sump for porosity before fitting. Also washed out sump using hot water, washing up liquid and bottle brush to get under baffles (as advised by SBD in sump change info!). Removed an amount of fine "grit"! From information gleaned (and generously given) appears sump can be changed without loosening engine to bellhousing bolts. However, the sump is effectively sandwiched between timing chain cover and bellhousing. The sump seals oil wise at the front against vertical face of the timing chain cover, and horizontal face of underside of block along sides, and and steel "bridge" across the rear. Rear of sump seal flange also protrudes into bellhousing, so sump needs to be tilted front to back to remove/refit. In order to reduce risk of oil leak, I decided to loosen engine to bellhousing bolts to create a couple of mm gap between the two (Ford manual states you can separate them by up to 5mm on the Focus). Took a number of days to complete my sump change, so I nipped up couple of bellhousing bolts each side, at end of each day, rather than risk problems with engine/gearbox engagement, if hoist "relaxed". I used an engine hoist to just support the weight of the rear of the engine, and maintain the gap even, top to bottom. PITA as hoist legs obstruct somewhat access under the car. I positioned hoist at full extension, from rear o/s to try and minimise obstruction! Sump change can be done single handed, but second pair of hands makes life much easier for sump removal, balance shaft removal, and reassembly. Particularly so if you're as lucky as me and have an engineering minded friend, who's keen to help (so much easier than having to explain every step of the way!). Procedure I used is below: Sump Removal:- 1. Lift and support the car so you can get free access to the sump. Removing front wheels improves access. 2. Drain oil from sump (~5L). 3. Loosen and remove all sump bolts, 4 timing cover, 2 (cap head bolts) bell-housing, 13 through sump. 4. Rig and support rear of engine on hoist, to just take weight. 5. Remove any "bits" (air inlet pipework in my case) required to access bellhousing bolts from engine bay! 6. Slacken engine to bellhousing bolts, crack them initially, then loosen evenly and separate by a couple of mm. I used a spacer each side to maintain gap (make sure spacer can't fall inside bellhousing!). 7. Carefully break the seal between the sump and block, pry bars can be used in some positions. Managed to start sump moving using timber lever on o/s lip of sump. Try and lever square, I was worried about cracking timing cover! 8. Work around the sump flange with the pry bars, very gently, taking care not to damage seal face until the sump is free and can be lowered. 9. Photographed joint face for sealant position reference, old sump also provides this. 10. Clean off all the old black sealant from the mating surfaces of the block, using plastic scraper and then white spirit. Note that the steel "bridge" at the back of the block in front of the flywheel comes with a plastic type layer already applied, clean carefully. 11. Clean off the old sealant from the timing cover surface in the same way. 12. Clean sealant and threadlock from bolts being reused. Run tap in all bolt holes, again to clean threadlock residue. Sump removed Front end, timing chain cover and oil p/p and drive Rear end, steel "bridge" and plastic seal face. Balance Shaft Assembly:- 1. Slacken 4 bolts, lower and remove. Take care weighs 8.2kg, quite a lump. 2. Check no shims present under mounting feet positions up inside block. 3. Leave in tray for oil to drain out. 4. Allow oil to run out of supply port up inside block. You know have a precision made lump of Ford engineering for mantelpiece! 5. Apply threadlock to cap head bolt (spring washer supplied with my kit). Fit balance shaft delete kit to blank oil port. Torque cap head bolt to 40Nm. Delete kit Delete kit fitted Oil Pump Pickup:- Mounting bolt spacing is 2mm less, and seal face bore is 2mm less on new pickup. I drilled out the mounting holes by 1mm. This allowed pickup to fit. I also carefully opened out seal face bore from 16mm to ~ 18mm (or as near as can be achieved, without compromising seal groove) to match oil pump inlet using Dremel. Take great care at all stages of pickup modification to keep internals clean. 1. Unbolt and remove existing oil pump pickup and seal (gasket as Ford list it). 2. Power Torque provide dimensions for shortening (70mm from underside of block face) and profiling new pickup. I checked internal depth of new sump local to pickup position - 70mm! Decided to give2-3mm clearance. Once length established, trial fit pickup, and using straight edges across underside of block, measure and mark pickup tube accordingly. 3. Cut pickup tube carefully, and profile narrow faces. Modified oil pickup Option: I opted to trial fit pickup, and then offered sump up into place, to check/sort: a) It fitted. b) Work out best way to offer up without wiping too much sealant from timing chain cover seal face. c) All bolts fitted without bottoming out. Sump wouldn't fit initially, horizontal baffle plate pickup cut out, rear edge fouling on pickup tube. Confirmed by measurement. Consulted Power Torque, suggested relieving baffle, limited to how much could be removed by adjacent vertical baffle. Dressing carried out, clearance achieved by measurement. Sump washed out again, and trial fitted. Success, slid up into place! Horizontal baffle fouling on pickup Baffle dressed back 4. Final clean pickup immediately prior to assembly. I used air line, and workshop vacuum. 5. Apply thin smear of sealant to pickup joint face, and fit seal in groove. 6. Apply threadlock to bolts. Fit pickup into place, and bolt up. Torque bolts to 10Nm Sump installation:- 1. Apply a thin bead of sealant to engine seal faces, with ring around each bolt hole (Ford manual states 3mm bead). 2. Apply threadlock to bolts. 3. Feed the rear of the sump in towards the bellhousing, then raise the front, taking care to minimise wiping sealant off timing chain cover seal face. 4. Insert 4 sump bolts into the block to secure sump, then insert remaining 9, wind up evenly to draw the sump up into place. Manual states, finger tight only at this stage! I nipped them up with socket, to ensure sump up square, but bolts not fully tightened. 5. Insert the 4 (20mm M6) timing chain cover bolts (plus washers),nip up evenly, Torque the 4 bolts to 10Nm 6. Loose fit bellhousing sump cap head bolts. 7. Torque the sump bolts evenly (start at middle each side, and work forward and back, side to side) to 20Nm. 8. Remove spacers, and evenly pull up bellhousing to block bolts. 9. Remove engine support rigging, and hoist. 10. Tighten bellhousing to block bolts to 48Nm Access to some very difficult so "calibrated muscles" utilised! 11. Torque the bellhousing to sump cap head bolts to 20Nm. 12. Reinstate any "bits" removed to access bellhousing bolts from engine bay! 13. Check that a bead of sealant has extruded all round from between the mating surfaces (peace of mind check!). 14. Change oil filter. Note: Left sealant for few hours to ensure fully cured, before oil fill! 13. Refill with oil, (took just on 5L) 14. Start engine, carefully watching oil pressure on initial engine spin, and check for leaks! Note: Could take very conservative approach and electrically disconnect fuel pump, and check oil pressure before going for engine start if so desired. 15. Fit wheels, remove supports, lower to ground. Test drive, in the knowledge your sump is no longer the nearest thing to the road on the underside of your car. I believe you may feel some more vibration through the car, but that may be my imagination, as hadn't driven the car forward a while before doing the sump change, due to crap winter weather! I didn't find it a particularly complicated job, once I got my head round having to take my shiny new engine apart! Hope this helps others considering doing similar, please shot with any queries.
  10. BugMan

    Flush mounting Areocatches

    Having previously bought the flush mounting Aerocatches (locking) in carbon and realising I need the rear-mounting type (thanks to those who spotted my mistake) does anybody have a good, cheap suppler as I have obviously bought the wrong type? Tar
  11. BugMan

    OK, I give up

    OK I'm sure I've seen a thread that identified these but i cant now find it, but can somebody please tell me/show me what these were for? Pretty sure the folded one goes under the FW rear to plug a hole somewhere?
  12. BugMan

    IVA Process

    OK just starting to think I need to start the IVA process, and knowing naff-all about this so far I'm looking for guidance and some pointers etc. Currently reading the Government web page, which tells you to navigate to a page that's not listed, so I "Googled" for "Individual Vehicle Approval application forms" and found my way to this form https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-application-form-for-passenger-cars-iva-1c Downloaded this form, amdI on the right track here? Given I've seen many comments about people with "IVA Test" on there cars I'm assuming if you have a test booked you are OK to travel on public roads, on a direct route with covering insurance?
  13. Just passing this along after an eMail conversation with Simon at WF confirming the warranty on my engine. "The warranty on the complete kit is one year from the date of collection, this is the warranty offered by our suppliers." I was asking about the engine clearance of the sump on the 250 as well as the cooling and the response, apart from the std "we don't see a problem" pointed to the fact that they cannot make changes to the engine as it voids the warranty from there suppliers which I kind of understand from a commercial PoV. I personally have decided that the cooling mod from Steve and AdgeC I'm going to fit right now as I have already done a lot of the prep work, so ordered those 2 parts yesterday from BurtonPower, but will likely leave the sump until post IVA, possibly over the winter. Sort of understand a 1 year warranty, which is a standard with just about everything these days, but given the time taken to actually build a kit I would guess is around a year (has been for me and I'm quite dedicated) before your in a position to even start the engine in a chassis on axle stands, a bit annoying. If it took you a year and then you found a major problem deep in the engine you would be pretty p******** off. Just passing the info on
  14. BugMan

    Side door

    Just trying to sort out my windscreen/side pillar/side door setup. I've tried the suggested measurement of 965-970 to get the angle, but like this the doors are up in the air, so have reduced to about 920 to get the back of the door to just touch the rear about on the fold line of the door. This means the door top is not parallel to the rest of the car,is this about right? i cant see any way to adjust this as the door length is obviously fixed, to the only adjustment is the angle of the windscreen Any help or suggestions welcome
  15. BugMan

    Big Head nut/ fixing

    Soon on my to-do list is mounting the front mudguards on my Sport 250, and was thinking of using the Big Head fasteners but ideally wanted the "nut" version. Anybody got any suggestions for a supplier? Thought M5 nuts would be a safer option than the standard M5 bolt's in protecting the tiers and maybe a bit less bending required, but any suggestions welcome?
  16. BugMan

    Here we go.........

    In my build if your interested
  17. BugMan

    Electrical question

    Just running things in my head before i end up fitting my scuttle, hopefully, for the last time and I'm looking at the WF loom connection for the cooling fan, as I'm going to fit the same setup as Steve and AdgeC with a separate fan controller, with a temp sensor mounted at the back of the engine. Rather than run yet another pair of wires to the cooling fan i though I'd look to see if i can use the WF connection, which has a BLACK and GREEN/BLACK, which I have followed back to a small relay on the WF loom, in a small block with 2 fuses and 2 relays. The GREEN/BLACK wire traces back to the fuse (7.5) on the end of the block above, then a short wire over to the top relay which has an GREEN/ORANGE signal wire and a BROWN which looks like a switched 12v supply. Now logic tells me that this relay would normally be connected to the temp sensor on a standard engine setup, but it just disappears into the WF loom, does anybody know where this GREEN/ORANGE wire goes ? Can anybody confirm this?
  18. BugMan

    Exhaust mounting question

    Hi, can I just get a quick check on the mounting of the exhaust can on the side of the car. Now I know my Sport 250 is not the most common model and think i have found all the required bits, but just wanted to ask about the post mounting. I think i have found the boss on the inside of the chassis, which would need drilling through from the inside, is this correct? Supplied exhaust can, with 2 massive jubilee clips? Rubber anti vibration block Exhaust hanging on the driver side Hole i think I need to drill through from the inside? Thanks in advance ;-]
  19. BugMan

    FW style boot lid lock's

    Just looking at the placement of the FW boot lid lock's, can anybody shed any light on the distance from the edge or center line that these should be fitted, as the FW manual has a drawing, but no dimensions?
  20. Mark Selby

    Dashboard Build

    Hi All, I’m still waiting on the manual for the Sport 250 kit I bought last year. With your help, I’ve made progress but not bothered’ torquing it all up until I’m confident. Dashboard build while the weather’s rubbish seemed like a good idea. without the manual, i’m guessing/deciding where the lights/switches go. Does anyone have a picture of how they’ve done it? Also - how do the warning lights secure against the back of the dash? And..finally, I have a digital dashboard (I know, all the gear and...) is there a backing plate that it screws into to hold it in place? There’s four screw holes but no screws in the box and no backing plate. #tearingmyhairout
  21. AdgeC

    Mazda Dif - Driveshaft Boots

    Whilst tinkering with my car, noticed the inner driveshaft boots are a slack fit on the driveshaft itself. Not excessive but concerned muck and water could make its way in. Should I be concerned, and looking to seal the boots? Considering using cable tie to nip it onto the shaft. Thinking of a pair, the locks 180 degc apart to maintain balance, or am I overthinking this? Car is Sport 250, with Mazda dif. and standard WF rear hubs/uprights. Believe this is standard set up on new kits currently. Any advice gratefully received.
  22. BugMan

    Dashboard switches

    I'm just at the stage of fitting my dash and have 1 more item to add which is the Ctek battery charger connector which I'm going to mount on the LH side of the dash, near the edge. Just checking before I fit this, is there any chance this could prove a problem with IVA? I can't imagine it would but though I'd ask the team.
  23. BugMan

    Heater mounting q

    I've got hold of the diagram for the holes if I were drilling through the scuttle to mount the heater and wiper motor, and Im just wondering if this is supposed to be central in the scuttle? Seen a few builds where to me it looks like it's central, using the wiper holes as a reference, which on mine I've got to drill out. If using the measurements from the diagram the heater is going to interfere with the top of the mouldings. I'm going to use the Big Head m6 flush mountings and a patch of fibreglass for extra reinforcement, but just wanted to make sure I'm not making a dangler-up thinking this is supposed the be dead in the middle?
  24. BugMan

    Body shell Q

    Ok, so moving forward with my body shell, and have the rear tub slotted into place, as I figured it was a good idea to get an idea of how things fit together etc. Found I had to bend the standard rear spare wheel carrier brackets out of the way with a big screwdriver and a hammer, may take advice I have had to cut them off later,as this is just a dry fit. Thanks I then pulled out the RH side as I want to get the position of the scuttle sorted out, and this seemed the easiest way as from what I can see the rear tub is the datum on the back panel on the rear of the seating compartment. RH side seems an easy fit, apart from it's fouling on the seat-belt (I assume that's what they are for) bolt studs on the back of the chassis. There is a bit of a cut-out pre-formed on the panel which looks like its a bit short, and just needs lengthening? Can anybody tell me if I've got this right, before I commit to making red dust?
  25. BugMan

    Body shell cutting Q

    Just been working on my scuttle, and can see some cutting in my very near future, and I've never cut this sort of stuff before, so looking for advice on best way and required tool's etc? Already have flat-nose drills so that part is covered its the cut outs I'm worried about. Was wondering is a 1/4 power file would be a good idea as long as you file away from the gel coat.
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