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  1. Gary Argent

    New member building a Sport 250

    Hi everyone, first post as a new member, I’ve really enjoyed reading the build threads on here, it is wonderful to see so much enthusiasm and advice. I previously built a Megablade in 2001 and then started an XTR2 in 2003, which sadly I did not finish. The itch to build has never really gone away though, so I’ve been researching options over the last few months with a lot of help from this forum, and this morning I placed an order for a Sport 250 kit. It should be arriving mid November so it’s time to get the garage cleared out. I’m very excited to get building again and will start a build thread nearer the time. I am sure I will be seeking a lot of advice from all the experts on here…. For now, a couple of photos of my first Westfield, and the state of the garage half way through the second build! Gary
  2. Wednesday, 13 September 2017 OK time to start my build thread, been on the forum now for a few months, joined in with the “Yorkshire breakfast club” run by Robin most months where I have had a great reception, and made some new friends and obtained a hell of a lot of great advice. Had a lot of my questions answered by people on here, as well as help in choosing the options to go for on my order, and fantastic reading of the other sport 250 build threads, which I still keep going back and re-reading, so a huge thanks to all here. Ordered my Sport 250 early June, and today hired (13th September) 2 fellows in a van through Facebook to come and pick me up in Yorkshire, drive to Westfield and pick up my kit, and then home again. Was a little bit stressed when they turned up in a van without a tail-lift, but it all ended well as I have already got my Ex-farther-in law’s engine hoist along with an engine balancer I bought to be able to get the engine off the van an into the gara ge. Was a good steady run, weather held out and the £260 was a bit of a bargain in my book, although they both smoked. I have opted to not pick up the body work at this time, as I didn’t see the point of trying to find a good place to keep it for many months, so a 2nd trip is on the cards once I get to the point of mounting the engine, as it’s about a 6-week lead time for my body shell. Still not set on colour, although Red is still favourite.
  3. Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO

    Sport 250 Sump Change

    Presume Tech Talk is the place for this? Posted with apologies to non 250 owners for the long diatribe. For fellow 250 owners interested in fitting a shallow sump, below is a guide that may be useful. I make no claims that this is THE way to do it, just the way that worked for me, following advice gratefully received from Steve sdh2903. WESTFIELD SPORT 250 - FORD ECOBOOST 2.0L SHALLOW SUMP FIT Parts. Needed:- A) Sump Pan - Pt No. N418752 from Power Torque Engineering - £249 inc del. B) Oil Pump Pickup (called Screen & Cover by Ford!) - Pt No. 5110434 + Gasket (seal) from local Ford dealer - £39.80 C) Balance Shaft Delete Kit - Ford Ecoboost/2.3L Mazda MZR - Various suppliers, got mine from PMP (Performance Mazda Parts) - £52.52 D) Sump Plug (M14 X 1.5) - (Existing Ecoboost different size) - Various suppliers, got mine from Opie Oils, Gold Magnetic Sump Plug AP-08 - £13.54 E) Timing Chain cover bolts (M6 X 20 + washers - 4off) - (Existing bolts too long) - Basic 8.8 bolts, nothing fancy. F) 5L engine oil + Oil Filter (MANN W77 or equivalent) - Various suppliers, got oil from Ford - £28.93 and filter from Eurocarparts - £6.49 (Since bought for £3.25 on offer!) G) Loctite 243 Threadlock, Loctite 5910 Gasket Sealant, or similar. Total cost £352.48 excluding consumables (M6 X 20 bolts, threadlock and sealant). Following my experience, would advise carefully inspecting sump for porosity before fitting. Also washed out sump using hot water, washing up liquid and bottle brush to get under baffles (as advised by SBD in sump change info!). Removed an amount of fine "grit"! From information gleaned (and generously given) appears sump can be changed without loosening engine to bellhousing bolts. However, the sump is effectively sandwiched between timing chain cover and bellhousing. The sump seals oil wise at the front against vertical face of the timing chain cover, and horizontal face of underside of block along sides, and and steel "bridge" across the rear. Rear of sump seal flange also protrudes into bellhousing, so sump needs to be tilted front to back to remove/refit. In order to reduce risk of oil leak, I decided to loosen engine to bellhousing bolts to create a couple of mm gap between the two (Ford manual states you can separate them by up to 5mm on the Focus). Took a number of days to complete my sump change, so I nipped up couple of bellhousing bolts each side, at end of each day, rather than risk problems with engine/gearbox engagement, if hoist "relaxed". I used an engine hoist to just support the weight of the rear of the engine, and maintain the gap even, top to bottom. PITA as hoist legs obstruct somewhat access under the car. I positioned hoist at full extension, from rear o/s to try and minimise obstruction! Sump change can be done single handed, but second pair of hands makes life much easier for sump removal, balance shaft removal, and reassembly. Particularly so if you're as lucky as me and have an engineering minded friend, who's keen to help (so much easier than having to explain every step of the way!). Procedure I used is below: Sump Removal:- 1. Lift and support the car so you can get free access to the sump. Removing front wheels improves access. 2. Drain oil from sump (~5L). 3. Loosen and remove all sump bolts, 4 timing cover, 2 (cap head bolts) bell-housing, 13 through sump. 4. Rig and support rear of engine on hoist, to just take weight. 5. Remove any "bits" (air inlet pipework in my case) required to access bellhousing bolts from engine bay! 6. Slacken engine to bellhousing bolts, crack them initially, then loosen evenly and separate by a couple of mm. I used a spacer each side to maintain gap (make sure spacer can't fall inside bellhousing!). 7. Carefully break the seal between the sump and block, pry bars can be used in some positions. Managed to start sump moving using timber lever on o/s lip of sump. Try and lever square, I was worried about cracking timing cover! 8. Work around the sump flange with the pry bars, very gently, taking care not to damage seal face until the sump is free and can be lowered. 9. Photographed joint face for sealant position reference, old sump also provides this. 10. Clean off all the old black sealant from the mating surfaces of the block, using plastic scraper and then white spirit. Note that the steel "bridge" at the back of the block in front of the flywheel comes with a plastic type layer already applied, clean carefully. 11. Clean off the old sealant from the timing cover surface in the same way. 12. Clean sealant and threadlock from bolts being reused. Run tap in all bolt holes, again to clean threadlock residue. Sump removed Front end, timing chain cover and oil p/p and drive Rear end, steel "bridge" and plastic seal face. Balance Shaft Assembly:- 1. Slacken 4 bolts, lower and remove. Take care weighs 8.2kg, quite a lump. 2. Check no shims present under mounting feet positions up inside block. 3. Leave in tray for oil to drain out. 4. Allow oil to run out of supply port up inside block. You know have a precision made lump of Ford engineering for mantelpiece! 5. Apply threadlock to cap head bolt (spring washer supplied with my kit). Fit balance shaft delete kit to blank oil port. Torque cap head bolt to 40Nm. Delete kit Delete kit fitted Oil Pump Pickup:- Mounting bolt spacing is 2mm less, and seal face bore is 2mm less on new pickup. I drilled out the mounting holes by 1mm. This allowed pickup to fit. I also carefully opened out seal face bore from 16mm to ~ 18mm (or as near as can be achieved, without compromising seal groove) to match oil pump inlet using Dremel. Take great care at all stages of pickup modification to keep internals clean. 1. Unbolt and remove existing oil pump pickup and seal (gasket as Ford list it). 2. Power Torque provide dimensions for shortening (70mm from underside of block face) and profiling new pickup. I checked internal depth of new sump local to pickup position - 70mm! Decided to give2-3mm clearance. Once length established, trial fit pickup, and using straight edges across underside of block, measure and mark pickup tube accordingly. 3. Cut pickup tube carefully, and profile narrow faces. Modified oil pickup Option: I opted to trial fit pickup, and then offered sump up into place, to check/sort: a) It fitted. b) Work out best way to offer up without wiping too much sealant from timing chain cover seal face. c) All bolts fitted without bottoming out. Sump wouldn't fit initially, horizontal baffle plate pickup cut out, rear edge fouling on pickup tube. Confirmed by measurement. Consulted Power Torque, suggested relieving baffle, limited to how much could be removed by adjacent vertical baffle. Dressing carried out, clearance achieved by measurement. Sump washed out again, and trial fitted. Success, slid up into place! Horizontal baffle fouling on pickup Baffle dressed back 4. Final clean pickup immediately prior to assembly. I used air line, and workshop vacuum. 5. Apply thin smear of sealant to pickup joint face, and fit seal in groove. 6. Apply threadlock to bolts. Fit pickup into place, and bolt up. Torque bolts to 10Nm Sump installation:- 1. Apply a thin bead of sealant to engine seal faces, with ring around each bolt hole (Ford manual states 3mm bead). 2. Apply threadlock to bolts. 3. Feed the rear of the sump in towards the bellhousing, then raise the front, taking care to minimise wiping sealant off timing chain cover seal face. 4. Insert 4 sump bolts into the block to secure sump, then insert remaining 9, wind up evenly to draw the sump up into place. Manual states, finger tight only at this stage! I nipped them up with socket, to ensure sump up square, but bolts not fully tightened. 5. Insert the 4 (20mm M6) timing chain cover bolts (plus washers),nip up evenly, Torque the 4 bolts to 10Nm 6. Loose fit bellhousing sump cap head bolts. 7. Torque the sump bolts evenly (start at middle each side, and work forward and back, side to side) to 20Nm. 8. Remove spacers, and evenly pull up bellhousing to block bolts. 9. Remove engine support rigging, and hoist. 10. Tighten bellhousing to block bolts to 48Nm Access to some very difficult so "calibrated muscles" utilised! 11. Torque the bellhousing to sump cap head bolts to 20Nm. 12. Reinstate any "bits" removed to access bellhousing bolts from engine bay! 13. Check that a bead of sealant has extruded all round from between the mating surfaces (peace of mind check!). 14. Change oil filter. Note: Left sealant for few hours to ensure fully cured, before oil fill! 13. Refill with oil, (took just on 5L) 14. Start engine, carefully watching oil pressure on initial engine spin, and check for leaks! Note: Could take very conservative approach and electrically disconnect fuel pump, and check oil pressure before going for engine start if so desired. 15. Fit wheels, remove supports, lower to ground. Test drive, in the knowledge your sump is no longer the nearest thing to the road on the underside of your car. I believe you may feel some more vibration through the car, but that may be my imagination, as hadn't driven the car forward a while before doing the sump change, due to crap winter weather! I didn't find it a particularly complicated job, once I got my head round having to take my shiny new engine apart! Hope this helps others considering doing similar, please shot with any queries.
  4. Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO

    Adge's Sport 250 Build & Tinkering Thereafter!

    Hello all, afraid the time has come for me to start my threatened build thread!! After a crack of dawn start (for me anyway) arrived at Kingswinford. Spent a very enjoyable and informative three hours or so with Ian and the rest of the crew. Van expertly loaded by Ian, didn't move an inch on the return journey. Had a good look at the cars in build and took loads of photos, including a lot of the factory 250 which Ian was kind enough to raise on the ramp so that I could have a good poke about and photo all things hidden when it's on th ground. Obligatory shot of bits in the van. Quick offload of all the bits and boxes, and my garage/workshop is pretty full, (I admire any body who builds in a single garage), then take the van back. Next step, to sort through all the boxes and bits, unwrap the bodywork and store things in a semi logical order. Not had chance to do any sorting today, "the boss" had new flooring laid in the kitchen, therefore my day was spent disconnecting/reconnecing white goods. Shortening plinths, refitting doors (why is it never straightforward, or is it just me!) and all the other unforeseen things that these "quick" jobs seem to involve! I'm told the days my own tomorrow! after we take the dogs for run a on the soggy Somerset levels (weather permitting). So the the sorting can commence, then the real "fun" can begin. I'm aiming to make regular progress updates, and I'm sure I'll be seeking guidance from you "experts" along the way. Thank you for taking the time to read this. Adge
  5. Gary Sport 250 Barcelona

    Sport 250 2018 with 1750 miles for sale

    Due to brexit and impossibility of 12 month green cards, I have now to sell all my cars which are currently in Barcelona Spain, a westfield, a nomad and a defender. One of these is a factory red Sport 250, which I bought direct from the factory with 200 miles on it. Naturally it has the factory Ford Ecoboost 250 HP engine, and it was warrantied by the factory. It was registered in August 2018 and has had little use due to several factors, none of which have anything to do with the car. I have had a loose cooling pipe and a loose indicator relay, both of which I fixed and other than that all has been well; it goes like a rocket. It has a momo quick release steering wheel, LED headlights and the following spec: Upgrade to limited slip differential Upgrade to wide track wishbones Upgrade to track day shock absorbers Upgrade to Westfield Race front and rear calliper – Upgrade to 205 wide T1R tyres Upgrade to 8” rear wheels Upgrade to FW rear body Upgrade to Sport Turbo seats Upgrade to limited-slip differential Carbon Effect FW stone guard kit> Also a power point / USB port is fitted. Plus clear indicators and a new grille, better for cooling and the "7"... Full doors, half doors and half roof included, plus storage bag for roof. I think it looks great with all the "7" type add ons, but they are all easily removable if not required. As they all say, I am sorry to let it go, but its virtually brand new and someone will get use out of it now that I simply cannot. New this car is around 39,000 pounds from the factory, assembled, mine has only 2000 miles and I am aiming for around 30,000 pounds. It is currently in Barcelona, but I can bring it back for a serious buyer or it can be seen there, or videos sent. thanks gary My whatsapp is 0034607200010 email - stillwanted@gmail.com
  6. Hello, I'm Nick (not really, but it makes it easier for everyone), some of you might recall a forum post few months back, seeking advice on a Sport 250, so here is the follow up... But before that a brief intro how it all happened.. In 2017 I bought a complete FW special edition kit, as a present for my grandfather for his retirement, as he loves to make stuff and is generally very handy. I was looking at Caterhams, but they refused to sell me a kit outside of UK (not sure why they would care...). So I ended up buying Westfield FW special edition, without too much research and took delivery of it in early April 2017, finished the build in late June of the same year. Overall - great little car, but the performance was not up to my expectations, thus ended up listing it for sale a year later and sold it with 2,000 kms on the clock. So the search for the next kit car started; looked at Gardner Douglas T70 Moda, Factory Five Type 65 Coupe-R even considered the new Atom 4 despite not having the option to build it... T70 moda - 18months lead time.. Atom 4 - 36 months lead time.. Type 65 Coupe-R - got scared by the ridiculously long build time, builds for the regular Type 65 often taking years to complete, the R versions being new and more complicated - probably a lot longer. Being a US V8 and not being a complete kit from the factory (missing rear suspension, engine/tranny, fuel pump, rims and tyres and so on..) also played a major factor in the decision. So after the warm welcome I received in the topic I created here seeking advice on the Sport 250, I shortly optioned the Sport 250 and bought it The kit is due to be shipped on the 12th of July. Sport 250 specs: Colour: orange, with orange seat piping and orange diamond stitching Powder coated chassis panels LSD Wide track wishbones Front and back anti roll bars Track day shock absorbers Westfield Race front and rear calipers R888R 205 tyres 8" rear wheels Digital dash Heater kit FW rear body LED Light pack LED head lamps MSA half cage Sport turbo seats with diamond stitching 3" four point harness upgrade Quick release steering column and race steering wheel (Momo) Half Hood and side screen SCS ECU Carbon-NV parts in full carbon: Ducted Aero+ cycle wings Rear diffuser Rear arch guards Mirror covers Indicator pods Carbon Dashboard Roll bar bolt covers Half doors (windscreen fitment) Raceline shallow sump - factory fitted if the sump kit is completed and reaches Westfield prior to shipping... Otherwise, will have to do it myself... So just wanted to prepare a space for a hopefully decent build thread. Attached is my previous FW Special Edition.
  7. Gary Sport 250 Barcelona

    Sport 250 Cooling (again)

    I tried to post a topic in tech / powertrain and it wouldn't let me, so apologies as I guess this is not the right area.... I have a customer built, factory supplied and factory sold sport 250. Its a 2017/18 car which had done 50 miles from new when I bought it last month for my bday. I did ask at the factory for it to be taken on a good run before I picked it up as I would then be driving the next day to Barcelona, but was told no man power available. I also asked re the cooling system / max temp I should see, bearing in mind I was heading to 30C ambient daily temperatures, I was told cooling system, radiators and fans would basically cool down a burning inferno and nothing to worry about, also that about 100 and something should still be fine. Simon told me this. I used the trip over / 1200 miles to run the car in and had oil changed over here to the recommended Ford ST oil and I kept revs below 4000 for almost all of the time. I have two "ECU" ENG temps on the electronic dash, where I guess the hotter of the two is the coolant and the other is the actual oil, but factory said they only ever connect the coolant temp and not the actual oil. I don't know where its reading from by the way and I am far from as technical as 99.99% of you guys. From memory, at ambient of about 23/27 C and motorway speeds of about 60/70 mph the coolant temperature sat around 98C and even 100 or there abouts, which for me seems very high (I have a nomad and it works like clockwork, fan kicks in at 96 cools it down to about 90 and off again, then on again at 96 etc. Only ever hit 100 at a 1st time track day in Barcelona at ambient 35C). Anyway, I made it over and as was told to expect temps in the 100's I thought okay, this is the way this engine works and from what I have read on here, it seems to be true. Then after oil change and running in over and done with, I was on the motorway over here again ambient 32 or so, and my temperature was at about 103/4. I sped up to about 80mph *legal over here and temperature went up higher, 105/6 and at one point up to 107 C where the warning light came on! At this point I thought that cant be right and slowed down where temp went back down to around 103/5 for rest of journey. On the way back 1.5 days later, 100 miles from home, yes in barcelona, temperature was at 98 or so, before got to motorway, driving in the evening at about 60mph, and water shot onto the windowscreen from the engine bay, also onto my feet in footwell. I slowed down and pulled over as soon as I could. Two truck called and 4 hours later and a long taxi ride and I am home, the car was at the breakdown truck depot. Sorry, but I do like a story to build up, even in the wrong section. So, with some assistance from facebook members I got the nose cone off and saw the hose connected to the engine, by the handily placed air filter, was loose as water came out there when I added it and started the engine. Fixed that issue and added more water (without bleeding as not my forte doing this crap and didnt know where the bleed valve was and dont have a funnel anyway). Evening temperatures, underground parking, only pure normal tap water, none bled in system and I started it up. Took a while but the temperature started to climb up... 1. Noticed bubbles, even boiling in the expansion tank - perhaps due to not having bled it? Hope not due to cylinder head gasket . Not massive, but surface boiling certainly present, have video proof. 2. When temperature reached 87, the fan started and didnt stop at any point until the ignition was off later on, which to me is strange and an indication that its not doing much compared to other cars I have / had. Car is idling and should cool down with the fan surely. Yes it has the plastic ducting although I had taken it off to send factory the photos of the intercooler, but car is not moving ..just idling. 3. Pipe at bottom of radiator was not hot, only the one at the top. Indicating what many say on here that the thermostat is set to 98 and hence does not even start to cool down the engine until 98C!! which again to me is crazy. If it starts to open at 98C and I dont think mine did as it got to 99 and still could not feel it hot, but turned engine off at that point so maybe it was then open and I didnt wait long enough, but if it opens around 98 then naturally it will take time to have an effect and so temps will get to about 103/4. And okay, if ford / westfield think this is fine, then why is the warning light set to 107, just a few C above what they think is normal? 4. Turned heater on (yes not much use in barcelona, but I didnt spec it ;)) and it worked, very hot air came out and it lowered temperature down by 1 or max 2C. But now it was around 96 anyway. Put bonnet back on and another few minutes and coolant temperature, still just idling, was at 99C. 5. I have compared my intercooler to some here in other cooling stories, which I tried to post to, but again, didnt work for me... and it seems I have the original / latest one, ie the one with 21 / 22 vertical sections and gaps at top and bottom, with more ability to let air flow through, but potentially less ability to cool down whats in there, having less surface area, especially when idling with no air flow. So, this is my take on this and previous posts, but maybe some better qualified 250 owners can advise: a. We never knew why westfield changed the intercooler from low capacity to high capacity around 2018? b. We assume they changed back to low capacity one as the higher capacity one led to less airflow to radiator and hence over heating while moving at least. c. While idling in traffic, I assume my lower capacity, less dense intercooler will not cool down as much as a high capacity one although I have to admit I do know what a radiator does, but not that clued up about the intercooler and whether it has much function for cooling the engine temperature, Im guessing it doesnt so it wont effect idling temperature at all possibly? d. While on motorway as I have the less restrictive, freer flowing intercooler with the westfield ducting, there is no reason for it to overheat at all, but at 30C and 75/85mph, what coolant temps should I be seeing? Surely not 107 as thats warning light territory! e. Seems some have changed the thermostat to one that opens as low as 82! instead of 98! and this has made a big difference, but why wouldnt ford do that, would it really have that big an effect on fuel economy or something worse... like engine life.... f. Why when the fan comes on at 87, does it not have any effect, ie temps keep rising. I didnt investigate fully, but I cant imagine a huge gap between the radiator and the fan and in any case with no moving air flow, it should pull the air through no problem. g. WOUld fact I've not bled the water yet have much effect on any of this? This is all so annoying and to me unprofessional coming from Ariel where things are generally sorted and they have been around less time and also changed engines, currently with Honda's and no one has overheatin issues to my knowledge. I had a black top westfield before and only overheated when the fan fuse blew, otherwise fan came on, cooled engine down, went off.... then repeat, its not hard or it shouldnt be, surely! Anyway, look forward to comments and if any of you have run on hot days and what idling temperatures you see and what temps at 80mph... and well I have a 3 month warranty, but not sure it will get me far with this issue. thanks!
  8. BugMan

    Antifreeze / coolant

    OkDoky team, looking for a sanity check here. Have the front of the Sport 250 off ATM, as I'm in the process of trying to improve the air-flow, moving the battery etc, as well as a host of other things, and still have the subject of what engin Antifreeze/coolant to use on the re-build. Spoken to a few people on various web and buliten boards, mainly on the Ford Focus ST car, as it's what my engine would have ended up in, and not really had much feedback, so turned to Google, which kept pointing toward Motocraft Orage being recomended. So after a bit a bit more searching, I found this: - https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/quickref/coolantsEN.pdf as a guide from Motorcraft. coolantsEN.pdf Years b4 2018, FOCUS marked. This is the chard guide for the right colour coolant to use. You can see I found the cloest model, which would say I need the ORANGE coolant type. Now my kit came with generic BLUE antifreeze, and TBH I'm really not sure what is the right way to go. When I spoke to Dave Gemzeo about this he suggested that about 5% mixture on Antifreeze/coolant would be fine, given we don't generally go out on the snow, which kind of backed up what i was running b4 I started on the work, and I had bought a dip-tester thing which un-helpfully works in DegC of protection. So my thinking is that I'd go for the ""O = Orange-colored engine coolant approved to Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D or WSS-M97B44-D2 (Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant)" as the base coolant so I have some engine protection or cleaning, and then p*** arouind with the mixture using deionised water to produse a mix in my setup of around 10 to 20% if i can get the stupid dose meter thing to convert DevC protected to % So what I'm after really is do the pannel think I'm nutz or is this a sensiable path? I don't think you can actually use any car manufacture's guide, as we have a different range of bits in our cars, like pipes and radiators, so it can only be a bit of a guess.
  9. BugMan

    Turbo Blanket

    Know there have been a few mentions of Turbo Blanket on here, and just seen some on a website, and given heat in the Sport 250 is a bit of a thing with me, I thought I’d asked the colective here about them. Understanding the idea, keeping heat away from adjacent things, but surly you end up keeping the excess heat in the turbo body, and while it’s designed for heat, keeping more in it can’t be good. Any comments very welcome so I can expand my knowledge
  10. BugMan

    Horn replacement

    I’m absolutely sure this has been asked many times before but I’m after replacing the crappy WF horn, with something that might actually let others people know I’m in the area as mine is more like a squeak. lots of options on dB and current in terms of Amps, and I don’t really want to have to do anything more than a straight swap so open to suggestions or recommendations? thanks in advance
  11. BugMan

    Help - split sump from engine

    I'm just starting the swap out of my sump on the sport 250 following AdgeC process, and so far have drained the oil and coolant, removed quite a bit of the car to get to the bolts fixing the bell housing to the back of the Ford EcoBoost and have about 1mm separation between the 2. All the retaining bolts removed from the sump, and the 4 from the front timing cover, but can't get the sump to budge, given its fixed on with liquid sealant. Any suggestions welcome on how to separate the 2? Tried tapping around the sump with a copper-hide, no luck.
  12. I am Sayontan Seth,I have got the Sport 250 in INDIA, we are having some issues we the stock ECU setup as the ambient temperature and air pressure and fuel octane.The idle RPM is dropping fluctuating.The Idle RPM is dropping as low as 200rpm when after applying throttle to mid RPM and leaving it, and most of the time the Engine shuts down while doing like these. Can anyone help me to Re tune my ECU for 2L EcoBoost in my Sport 250?Also where can I get the ECU stock flash file?
  13. BugMan

    fibreglass polishing

    While doing a quick horn replacement over the weekend a bit kit in my garage fell against the nose cone, and although its only a slight buff to the finish, I know it's there. Can anybody recommend a process to hopefully buff this out, as the only thing i have every used of a car was T-Cut I would have through to be to aggressive?
  14. BugMan

    Exhaust Wrap recomendations

    Well now I'm post IVA I'm starting to look at the refinements for the car. The IVA examiner also picked up on this, that the Sport 250 exhaust is likely to dry-out the top UJ in the steering, and advised to wrap it to keep the heat away from it. So I'm looking for any advice on choice of exhaust wrap from the forum and any tips on how to apply it as this is yet another new thing for me If given a choice I'd like it to be black, unless this compromises the performance, and only intend to wrap the first pipe to the edge of the body-shell, and my exit hole has about 10mm all the way around which in my mind will help with cooling, well a little bit anyway. Thanks in advance
  15. BugMan

    Door fixing

    Hi team, looking for a bit of help on how the fix the WF doors with the straps supplied? I've got a small bag with a pair M5 SS doom head nuts/bolts and some rivets with the pop studs but no real clue on where to fix them to the door or the inside of the passenger compartment?
  16. BugMan

    Steering wheels

    On my immediate list of thing I'd like to change will be the steering wheel, had a quick look about, but confused and looking for some suggestions and why. https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/steering-wheels I ideally want a slightly larger wheel as I'm coming from years of cars with power steering, but also want a larger space above the center so allow vision of my AIM dash. I'm also planning this as a "Quick Release" replacement shaft/boss http://go-race.co.uk/shop/4582749947/westfield-steering-column-quick-release-boss/10740708
  17. Having previously bought the flush mounting Aerocatches (locking) in carbon and realising I need the rear-mounting type (thanks to those who spotted my mistake) does anybody have a good, cheap suppler as I have obviously bought the wrong type? Tar
  18. BugMan

    OK, I give up

    OK I'm sure I've seen a thread that identified these but i cant now find it, but can somebody please tell me/show me what these were for? Pretty sure the folded one goes under the FW rear to plug a hole somewhere?
  19. BugMan

    IVA Process

    OK just starting to think I need to start the IVA process, and knowing naff-all about this so far I'm looking for guidance and some pointers etc. Currently reading the Government web page, which tells you to navigate to a page that's not listed, so I "Googled" for "Individual Vehicle Approval application forms" and found my way to this form https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-application-form-for-passenger-cars-iva-1c Downloaded this form, amdI on the right track here? Given I've seen many comments about people with "IVA Test" on there cars I'm assuming if you have a test booked you are OK to travel on public roads, on a direct route with covering insurance?
  20. Just passing this along after an eMail conversation with Simon at WF confirming the warranty on my engine. "The warranty on the complete kit is one year from the date of collection, this is the warranty offered by our suppliers." I was asking about the engine clearance of the sump on the 250 as well as the cooling and the response, apart from the std "we don't see a problem" pointed to the fact that they cannot make changes to the engine as it voids the warranty from there suppliers which I kind of understand from a commercial PoV. I personally have decided that the cooling mod from Steve and AdgeC I'm going to fit right now as I have already done a lot of the prep work, so ordered those 2 parts yesterday from BurtonPower, but will likely leave the sump until post IVA, possibly over the winter. Sort of understand a 1 year warranty, which is a standard with just about everything these days, but given the time taken to actually build a kit I would guess is around a year (has been for me and I'm quite dedicated) before your in a position to even start the engine in a chassis on axle stands, a bit annoying. If it took you a year and then you found a major problem deep in the engine you would be pretty p******** off. Just passing the info on
  21. BugMan

    Side door

    Just trying to sort out my windscreen/side pillar/side door setup. I've tried the suggested measurement of 965-970 to get the angle, but like this the doors are up in the air, so have reduced to about 920 to get the back of the door to just touch the rear about on the fold line of the door. This means the door top is not parallel to the rest of the car,is this about right? i cant see any way to adjust this as the door length is obviously fixed, to the only adjustment is the angle of the windscreen Any help or suggestions welcome
  22. BugMan

    Big Head nut/ fixing

    Soon on my to-do list is mounting the front mudguards on my Sport 250, and was thinking of using the Big Head fasteners but ideally wanted the "nut" version. Anybody got any suggestions for a supplier? Thought M5 nuts would be a safer option than the standard M5 bolt's in protecting the tiers and maybe a bit less bending required, but any suggestions welcome?
  23. BugMan

    Here we go.........

    In my build if your interested
  24. BugMan

    Electrical question

    Just running things in my head before i end up fitting my scuttle, hopefully, for the last time and I'm looking at the WF loom connection for the cooling fan, as I'm going to fit the same setup as Steve and AdgeC with a separate fan controller, with a temp sensor mounted at the back of the engine. Rather than run yet another pair of wires to the cooling fan i though I'd look to see if i can use the WF connection, which has a BLACK and GREEN/BLACK, which I have followed back to a small relay on the WF loom, in a small block with 2 fuses and 2 relays. The GREEN/BLACK wire traces back to the fuse (7.5) on the end of the block above, then a short wire over to the top relay which has an GREEN/ORANGE signal wire and a BROWN which looks like a switched 12v supply. Now logic tells me that this relay would normally be connected to the temp sensor on a standard engine setup, but it just disappears into the WF loom, does anybody know where this GREEN/ORANGE wire goes ? Can anybody confirm this?
  25. BugMan

    Exhaust mounting question

    Hi, can I just get a quick check on the mounting of the exhaust can on the side of the car. Now I know my Sport 250 is not the most common model and think i have found all the required bits, but just wanted to ask about the post mounting. I think i have found the boss on the inside of the chassis, which would need drilling through from the inside, is this correct? Supplied exhaust can, with 2 massive jubilee clips? Rubber anti vibration block Exhaust hanging on the driver side Hole i think I need to drill through from the inside? Thanks in advance ;-]
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