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  1. Wednesday, 13 September 2017 OK time to start my build thread, been on the forum now for a few months, joined in with the “Yorkshire breakfast club” run by Robin most months where I have had a great reception, and made some new friends and obtained a hell of a lot of great advice. Had a lot of my questions answered by people on here, as well as help in choosing the options to go for on my order, and fantastic reading of the other sport 250 build threads, which I still keep going back and re-reading, so a huge thanks to all here. Ordered my Sport 250 early June, and today hired (13th September) 2 fellows in a van through Facebook to come and pick me up in Yorkshire, drive to Westfield and pick up my kit, and then home again. Was a little bit stressed when they turned up in a van without a tail-lift, but it all ended well as I have already got my Ex-farther-in law’s engine hoist along with an engine balancer I bought to be able to get the engine off the van an into the gara ge. Was a good steady run, weather held out and the £260 was a bit of a bargain in my book, although they both smoked. I have opted to not pick up the body work at this time, as I didn’t see the point of trying to find a good place to keep it for many months, so a 2nd trip is on the cards once I get to the point of mounting the engine, as it’s about a 6-week lead time for my body shell. Still not set on colour, although Red is still favourite.
  2. BugMan

    Horn replacement

    I’m absolutely sure this has been asked many times before but I’m after replacing the crappy WF horn, with something that might actually let others people know I’m in the area as mine is more like a squeak. lots of options on dB and current in terms of Amps, and I don’t really want to have to do anything more than a straight swap so open to suggestions or recommendations? thanks in advance
  3. BugMan

    fibreglass polishing

    While doing a quick horn replacement over the weekend a bit kit in my garage fell against the nose cone, and although its only a slight buff to the finish, I know it's there. Can anybody recommend a process to hopefully buff this out, as the only thing i have every used of a car was T-Cut I would have through to be to aggressive?
  4. BugMan

    Exhaust Wrap recomendations

    Well now I'm post IVA I'm starting to look at the refinements for the car. The IVA examiner also picked up on this, that the Sport 250 exhaust is likely to dry-out the top UJ in the steering, and advised to wrap it to keep the heat away from it. So I'm looking for any advice on choice of exhaust wrap from the forum and any tips on how to apply it as this is yet another new thing for me If given a choice I'd like it to be black, unless this compromises the performance, and only intend to wrap the first pipe to the edge of the body-shell, and my exit hole has about 10mm all the way around which in my mind will help with cooling, well a little bit anyway. Thanks in advance
  5. BugMan

    Door fixing

    Hi team, looking for a bit of help on how the fix the WF doors with the straps supplied? I've got a small bag with a pair M5 SS doom head nuts/bolts and some rivets with the pop studs but no real clue on where to fix them to the door or the inside of the passenger compartment?
  6. BugMan

    Steering wheels

    On my immediate list of thing I'd like to change will be the steering wheel, had a quick look about, but confused and looking for some suggestions and why. https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/steering-wheels I ideally want a slightly larger wheel as I'm coming from years of cars with power steering, but also want a larger space above the center so allow vision of my AIM dash. I'm also planning this as a "Quick Release" replacement shaft/boss http://go-race.co.uk/shop/4582749947/westfield-steering-column-quick-release-boss/10740708
  7. Having previously bought the flush mounting Aerocatches (locking) in carbon and realising I need the rear-mounting type (thanks to those who spotted my mistake) does anybody have a good, cheap suppler as I have obviously bought the wrong type? Tar
  8. BugMan

    OK, I give up

    OK I'm sure I've seen a thread that identified these but i cant now find it, but can somebody please tell me/show me what these were for? Pretty sure the folded one goes under the FW rear to plug a hole somewhere?
  9. BugMan

    IVA Process

    OK just starting to think I need to start the IVA process, and knowing naff-all about this so far I'm looking for guidance and some pointers etc. Currently reading the Government web page, which tells you to navigate to a page that's not listed, so I "Googled" for "Individual Vehicle Approval application forms" and found my way to this form https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-application-form-for-passenger-cars-iva-1c Downloaded this form, amdI on the right track here? Given I've seen many comments about people with "IVA Test" on there cars I'm assuming if you have a test booked you are OK to travel on public roads, on a direct route with covering insurance?
  10. Just passing this along after an eMail conversation with Simon at WF confirming the warranty on my engine. "The warranty on the complete kit is one year from the date of collection, this is the warranty offered by our suppliers." I was asking about the engine clearance of the sump on the 250 as well as the cooling and the response, apart from the std "we don't see a problem" pointed to the fact that they cannot make changes to the engine as it voids the warranty from there suppliers which I kind of understand from a commercial PoV. I personally have decided that the cooling mod from Steve and AdgeC I'm going to fit right now as I have already done a lot of the prep work, so ordered those 2 parts yesterday from BurtonPower, but will likely leave the sump until post IVA, possibly over the winter. Sort of understand a 1 year warranty, which is a standard with just about everything these days, but given the time taken to actually build a kit I would guess is around a year (has been for me and I'm quite dedicated) before your in a position to even start the engine in a chassis on axle stands, a bit annoying. If it took you a year and then you found a major problem deep in the engine you would be pretty p******** off. Just passing the info on
  11. BugMan

    Side door

    Just trying to sort out my windscreen/side pillar/side door setup. I've tried the suggested measurement of 965-970 to get the angle, but like this the doors are up in the air, so have reduced to about 920 to get the back of the door to just touch the rear about on the fold line of the door. This means the door top is not parallel to the rest of the car,is this about right? i cant see any way to adjust this as the door length is obviously fixed, to the only adjustment is the angle of the windscreen Any help or suggestions welcome
  12. BugMan

    Big Head nut/ fixing

    Soon on my to-do list is mounting the front mudguards on my Sport 250, and was thinking of using the Big Head fasteners but ideally wanted the "nut" version. Anybody got any suggestions for a supplier? Thought M5 nuts would be a safer option than the standard M5 bolt's in protecting the tiers and maybe a bit less bending required, but any suggestions welcome?
  13. BugMan

    Here we go.........

    In my build if your interested
  14. BugMan

    Electrical question

    Just running things in my head before i end up fitting my scuttle, hopefully, for the last time and I'm looking at the WF loom connection for the cooling fan, as I'm going to fit the same setup as Steve and AdgeC with a separate fan controller, with a temp sensor mounted at the back of the engine. Rather than run yet another pair of wires to the cooling fan i though I'd look to see if i can use the WF connection, which has a BLACK and GREEN/BLACK, which I have followed back to a small relay on the WF loom, in a small block with 2 fuses and 2 relays. The GREEN/BLACK wire traces back to the fuse (7.5) on the end of the block above, then a short wire over to the top relay which has an GREEN/ORANGE signal wire and a BROWN which looks like a switched 12v supply. Now logic tells me that this relay would normally be connected to the temp sensor on a standard engine setup, but it just disappears into the WF loom, does anybody know where this GREEN/ORANGE wire goes ? Can anybody confirm this?
  15. BugMan

    Exhaust mounting question

    Hi, can I just get a quick check on the mounting of the exhaust can on the side of the car. Now I know my Sport 250 is not the most common model and think i have found all the required bits, but just wanted to ask about the post mounting. I think i have found the boss on the inside of the chassis, which would need drilling through from the inside, is this correct? Supplied exhaust can, with 2 massive jubilee clips? Rubber anti vibration block Exhaust hanging on the driver side Hole i think I need to drill through from the inside? Thanks in advance ;-]
  16. BugMan

    FW style boot lid lock's

    Just looking at the placement of the FW boot lid lock's, can anybody shed any light on the distance from the edge or center line that these should be fitted, as the FW manual has a drawing, but no dimensions?
  17. BugMan

    Standard Rear Roll Bar

    Having just finally fitted and riveted my 2 side panels and rear tub i then put in the 4 point harness eye bolts in to the top of the rear tub, I next wanted to fit the rear roll bar. In the fitting manual I have it suggest this should be 70mm in from the back edge, and this feel like its in the centre of the flat steep plate on the rear of the chassis i though I'd just check, does this look correct? I realise that most people fit a better rear cage, but this is what i have ATM, and I found that the FW manual for the rear eye bolts was way out,and fortunately i had a better way of lining these up, so they are all in OK, but the FW manual does not see to have anything about the rear cage in it. Marked out ready to be confirmed then too the distance between centres of my roll bar Much appreciate any help
  18. BugMan

    Exhaust fitting

    Just a quick question when it comes to fitting my exhaust does it need any sort of fixing past or compound?
  19. BugMan

    Fitting of body shell

    Again request for advice on the riveting of the shell to the chassis, as this is approaching fast. I've been through the FW manual again and can't remember much about how the shell and inside panels are to be fitted. Have some smaller black headed rivets in my supplied kit, but no real guidance on number of holes, pitch between or how many. I assume these are just for the 2 inside panels that go on the outside of the cabin, and then the rest of the shell attachment is just be normal 4mm plain rivets. Does the shell need any bonding like silicone or anything? Also any tips on putting the shell together? My rough plan was to assemble the rear section, side panels and rear wheel arches together on the drive once i had cut any holes for the filler and exhaust etc. and then attempt to fit this over the back of the car, with the first point of contact being the lip on the rear tub, and then hinge it down, but I'm open to any advice? Thanks in advance
  20. Just looking through my out-standing bits and came across the 2 headlight brackets, but can't find any reference So in the assum? Thanks in advance
  21. BugMan

    Quick electrical question

    Just playing around with my dash setup, and noticed that the horn works all the time, regardless of the position of the ignition key. Following things throughIi have sort of worked out that :- a) PURPLE is live 12+ all the time, seen on the Aux Plug and the Horn - PURPLE all the way back to the fuse block b) GREEN is switched 12+, from the Ignition key c) BLACK is common GROUND Just checking I've got things straight? I'm surprised the horn is operational all the time, was expecting it to be switched. On the same subject I'm assuming on my Sport250 start button, this would only be illuminated with the lights, as its quite a bright RED?
  22. BugMan

    Dashboard switches

    I'm just at the stage of fitting my dash and have 1 more item to add which is the Ctek battery charger connector which I'm going to mount on the LH side of the dash, near the edge. Just checking before I fit this, is there any chance this could prove a problem with IVA? I can't imagine it would but though I'd ask the team.
  23. BugMan

    Cutting holes in the body

    Ok team, after some advice as I have the holes to cut in the shell for various bits like the filler cap, exhaust, seat belt mountings etc. Any suggestions on the best way to make sure things line up, as cutting the shell scares the willies out of me? The actual cutting I think I have a good approach for either with cone drills/step cutters for small'ish holes or centre point drill and then 360Deg cutter blade followed by Dremel work to finish up. Any advice welcomed ad getting this wrong would obviously be a disaster.
  24. BugMan

    Dash board fixing

    Ok team, just finished getting my scuttle to fit onto the chassis as its currently got the rear-panel, and side panels fitted to locate the rather complicated cut-out for the fly-by-wire throttle. Have my dash fitted out with some of the switches etc, following AdgeC lay-out, without the AIM dash in it yet,and have just offered up the dash panel to roughly line up the edges. I also used a straight line to bend the 2 welded on brackets, to help support the dash, is that correct? I have worked out that the crash pad which goes around the outside must then cover the bolt's holding the dash to the scuttle, and following other builds am going to order the M4 clips https://www.amazon.co.uk/Speed-Fastener-Chimney-Tapping-Metric/dp/B01MCYOL7I/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521243951&sr=1-4&keywords=Metric+Screw+Lug+Spire+Clips Have not seen anybody really detail how many screws are generally used to bolt the two together, so looking for advise on how many to use? I'm then assuming that the crash pad is fixed using hook & loop tape to hold this in place? I like the idea of being able to drop out the dash if needed by just un-screwing after removing the crash pad. Have a bag odd button head M5 screws/washers/nyloc's x10 sets from WF, but that seems like a hell of a lot of LARGE fixings so am planing to switch to M4, and that I think nuts would be a b***h to un-do if I ever needed to remove
  25. BugMan

    Heater mounting q

    I've got hold of the diagram for the holes if I were drilling through the scuttle to mount the heater and wiper motor, and Im just wondering if this is supposed to be central in the scuttle? Seen a few builds where to me it looks like it's central, using the wiper holes as a reference, which on mine I've got to drill out. If using the measurements from the diagram the heater is going to interfere with the top of the mouldings. I'm going to use the Big Head m6 flush mountings and a patch of fibreglass for extra reinforcement, but just wanted to make sure I'm not making a dangler-up thinking this is supposed the be dead in the middle?
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