Search the Community
Showing results for tags '250'.
-
Having previously bought the flush mounting Aerocatches (locking) in carbon and realising I need the rear-mounting type (thanks to those who spotted my mistake) does anybody have a good, cheap suppler as I have obviously bought the wrong type? Tar
-
Soon on my to-do list is mounting the front mudguards on my Sport 250, and was thinking of using the Big Head fasteners but ideally wanted the "nut" version. Anybody got any suggestions for a supplier? Thought M5 nuts would be a safer option than the standard M5 bolt's in protecting the tiers and maybe a bit less bending required, but any suggestions welcome?
-
In my build if your interested
-
Having just finally fitted and riveted my 2 side panels and rear tub i then put in the 4 point harness eye bolts in to the top of the rear tub, I next wanted to fit the rear roll bar. In the fitting manual I have it suggest this should be 70mm in from the back edge, and this feel like its in the centre of the flat steep plate on the rear of the chassis i though I'd just check, does this look correct? I realise that most people fit a better rear cage, but this is what i have ATM, and I found that the FW manual for the rear eye bolts was way out,and fortunately i had a better way of lining these up, so they are all in OK, but the FW manual does not see to have anything about the rear cage in it. Marked out ready to be confirmed then too the distance between centres of my roll bar Much appreciate any help
-
Again request for advice on the riveting of the shell to the chassis, as this is approaching fast. I've been through the FW manual again and can't remember much about how the shell and inside panels are to be fitted. Have some smaller black headed rivets in my supplied kit, but no real guidance on number of holes, pitch between or how many. I assume these are just for the 2 inside panels that go on the outside of the cabin, and then the rest of the shell attachment is just be normal 4mm plain rivets. Does the shell need any bonding like silicone or anything? Also any tips on putting the shell together? My rough plan was to assemble the rear section, side panels and rear wheel arches together on the drive once i had cut any holes for the filler and exhaust etc. and then attempt to fit this over the back of the car, with the first point of contact being the lip on the rear tub, and then hinge it down, but I'm open to any advice? Thanks in advance
-
Just looking through my out-standing bits and came across the 2 headlight brackets, but can't find any reference So in the assum? Thanks in advance
-
Just playing around with my dash setup, and noticed that the horn works all the time, regardless of the position of the ignition key. Following things throughIi have sort of worked out that :- a) PURPLE is live 12+ all the time, seen on the Aux Plug and the Horn - PURPLE all the way back to the fuse block b) GREEN is switched 12+, from the Ignition key c) BLACK is common GROUND Just checking I've got things straight? I'm surprised the horn is operational all the time, was expecting it to be switched. On the same subject I'm assuming on my Sport250 start button, this would only be illuminated with the lights, as its quite a bright RED?
-
I'm just at the stage of fitting my dash and have 1 more item to add which is the Ctek battery charger connector which I'm going to mount on the LH side of the dash, near the edge. Just checking before I fit this, is there any chance this could prove a problem with IVA? I can't imagine it would but though I'd ask the team.
-
Ok team, after some advice as I have the holes to cut in the shell for various bits like the filler cap, exhaust, seat belt mountings etc. Any suggestions on the best way to make sure things line up, as cutting the shell scares the willies out of me? The actual cutting I think I have a good approach for either with cone drills/step cutters for small'ish holes or centre point drill and then 360Deg cutter blade followed by Dremel work to finish up. Any advice welcomed ad getting this wrong would obviously be a disaster.
-
Ok team, just finished getting my scuttle to fit onto the chassis as its currently got the rear-panel, and side panels fitted to locate the rather complicated cut-out for the fly-by-wire throttle. Have my dash fitted out with some of the switches etc, following AdgeC lay-out, without the AIM dash in it yet,and have just offered up the dash panel to roughly line up the edges. I also used a straight line to bend the 2 welded on brackets, to help support the dash, is that correct? I have worked out that the crash pad which goes around the outside must then cover the bolt's holding the dash to the scuttle, and following other builds am going to order the M4 clips https://www.amazon.co.uk/Speed-Fastener-Chimney-Tapping-Metric/dp/B01MCYOL7I/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521243951&sr=1-4&keywords=Metric+Screw+Lug+Spire+Clips Have not seen anybody really detail how many screws are generally used to bolt the two together, so looking for advise on how many to use? I'm then assuming that the crash pad is fixed using hook & loop tape to hold this in place? I like the idea of being able to drop out the dash if needed by just un-screwing after removing the crash pad. Have a bag odd button head M5 screws/washers/nyloc's x10 sets from WF, but that seems like a hell of a lot of LARGE fixings so am planing to switch to M4, and that I think nuts would be a b***h to un-do if I ever needed to remove
-
I've got hold of the diagram for the holes if I were drilling through the scuttle to mount the heater and wiper motor, and Im just wondering if this is supposed to be central in the scuttle? Seen a few builds where to me it looks like it's central, using the wiper holes as a reference, which on mine I've got to drill out. If using the measurements from the diagram the heater is going to interfere with the top of the mouldings. I'm going to use the Big Head m6 flush mountings and a patch of fibreglass for extra reinforcement, but just wanted to make sure I'm not making a dangler-up thinking this is supposed the be dead in the middle?
-
Ok, so moving forward with my body shell, and have the rear tub slotted into place, as I figured it was a good idea to get an idea of how things fit together etc. Found I had to bend the standard rear spare wheel carrier brackets out of the way with a big screwdriver and a hammer, may take advice I have had to cut them off later,as this is just a dry fit. Thanks I then pulled out the RH side as I want to get the position of the scuttle sorted out, and this seemed the easiest way as from what I can see the rear tub is the datum on the back panel on the rear of the seating compartment. RH side seems an easy fit, apart from it's fouling on the seat-belt (I assume that's what they are for) bolt studs on the back of the chassis. There is a bit of a cut-out pre-formed on the panel which looks like its a bit short, and just needs lengthening? Can anybody tell me if I've got this right, before I commit to making red dust?
-
Just been working on my scuttle, and can see some cutting in my very near future, and I've never cut this sort of stuff before, so looking for advice on best way and required tool's etc? Already have flat-nose drills so that part is covered its the cut outs I'm worried about. Was wondering is a 1/4 power file would be a good idea as long as you file away from the gel coat.
-
Just been talking to Ian at WF on the fuel cut-off switch, that I had decided NOT to fit as I wondered if this needed the connectors shoring together (had forgotten it had a loop-back plug on already)?, and Ian said it was a requirement for the IVA due to it being a pressurized fuel system for Injection engines. Now fortunately I still have room to fit my switch, it's just a question of the cables/plugs on the Wf loom Just wondering if anybody else has seen this? Any advice gratefully accepted?
-
Ok, just started looking at the rear lights on my Sport 250 build, think I've figured out what goes in what holes etc. Reversing and rear fog quite easy, although WF short on fitting nyloc nuts/washers. Looking at the LED ring/indicator - fitted yellow bulbs (for now as intend to switch to LED in the future) into the clear holder and can see then see how they screw into the outer ring with the 3 self-tappers. FW manual talks about bonding these into the rear tub with "Nail's" type products, and I'm looking for suggestions? Am I right to assume that the idea is to drill 3 matching holes through the tub, to match up with the 3 holes in the ring indicator, and then use some mastic (Nail's) type stuff to make it water-tight,and screw through from the inside, through the tub, into the ring? On the reflectors, am I also right to assume you just push the reflector into the middle of the red ring,and then fix in the same way as the brake/indicator? If so i think I'm also missing the self-tappers for this from WF? Appreciate any help and recommendations PS - i bought some Puraflex 40 for panel fitting, would this work for the lights? ;-
-
Seen a few people with nicely painted disk's and while my front are ventilated and already painted the rear are raw steel. While I know the pads will remove any paint, I'd kind of like to paint the remainder to prevent the rust monster getting a bit on it, any suggestions, or this actually a bad idea?
-
Now that my car is starting to look like a car, it occurred to me that I suspect its probably not covered under our household insurance. Has anybody any experience, or suggestion on if its possible to get a policy to cover the car, which as its in-build, as obviously I cant insurer it any normal route it as its not got a registration yet. Appreciate any suggestions or companies that might be able to help?
-
While sitting waiting for my body kit to be delivered as the couriers van broke down I thought I have a browse around eBay? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2017-WESTFIELD-ROADSTER-Sport-250-Factory-Built-Brand-New/182754138015?hash=item2a8cfed79f:g:K5IAAOSwFdJZtrfK
-
Now don't shoot me for asking what on the face of it is a seemingly stupid question, but what is the shift pattern in my Sport 250's MX5 5 speed gearbox? I've never driven or been in an MX5 and a quick "google" just confused me further as i have no working clutch yet and the nice silver gear-knob for WF is of no help.
-
Ok team, got some brake and clutch bleeding/filling in my near future, and TBH I've not done any of this since I was about 19, on a knackered yellow Ford Escort Mk1 So I'm after some recommendations on what I need, what makes it easiest etc. Seen a whole bunch of stuff if you Google it, but after what is best/easiest to use, and ideally make it a 1 man operation ?
-
OK,this has been on my mind for a while, but I'm quickly reaching the point of having to make a decision,as I'm now very close to dropping my chassis off the tresses to axle stands, ready to try to fit the engine. I have taken note of Dave's thread where he fitted this Dynamat heat & sound matting to his cockpit and very much like the idea. So I'm at the point where if I'm going to fit something like this, I have the opportunity to fit this on the in-side of the tunnel paneling, before I fit the prop-shaft and engine/gearbox. Has anybody through, or even done this,and do the forum think it's worthwhile? Dave - if you had the choice would yo have fitted on the inside of the tunnel? Now I'm assuming Dave did this for a very good reason,and while I could follow his excellent idea on the floor of the cockpit, If I were to fit this on the inside of the tunnel panels, I think I would be saving a bit of hassle and room for the driver/passenger as lets be honest, I like my food. I could then apply the same logic on the inside of the outer panels. Be very grateful for any thoughts, if anybody has done this in the past,what material was used, how hot does the tunnel get in something comparable like the S2000 to my sport 250
-
OK, in trying to help a fellow member today I took a closer look at my prop shaft. Noticed the sticker saying "don't be a nunney and forget to put some Lithium Grease in this Steve", you tool. So as I DON't have a grease gun, let alone the right stuff to put in it, I'm after some suggestions for what I need? I have found the grease nipple in the UJ's at both ends, cleverly hidden in black paint.
-
My google alerts just popped this up Don't get to excited, IMHO its pretty crap
-
OK team, a bit more advice please. I'm sitting in the garage with a nice cup of tea, and Jam Steam Sponge pudding looking at how I'm going to mount the fuse boxes and AIM Dash expansion. I going to follow AdgeC's brill idea and mount them on the cross rail just above the drivers feet, but taking his advice on the front of the rail, further away form the scuttle back-line. The bit of aluminium sheet I have is not quite as tall as AdgeC's so I'm thinking I can mount the expansion unit on other side of the steering shaft, but could mount horizontal or vertical. Anybody got any thoughts on this?
-
Just going through my boxes of bits I have yest to fit to the chassis, and I literally tripped over the roll bar, so thought I'd take a look at it, as to where/how its fixed to the car. The fixing looks very simple, just a large M12'ish size bolt in the end of the roll bar, which I assume you need to drill a new pair of holes in the small square plate on the back of the car then then screw up through. Now I have seen pretty much everybody fit the bar once the body is on the chassis, which I understand as you need to drill through the fiberglass, and then into the steel chassis below, but is there any reason not the drill the mounting hole now, and then when the body is fitted be able to drill up through the fiberglass from underneath?
