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Found 13 results

  1. Mark Selby

    Sport 250 Selby Build Bucks

    Just had a warm welcome from members of the WSCC - thank you very much. Bought the 250 to build with my teenage boys. Made some progress but running out of manual quickly. Have spent more time getting the garage ready and organised than being able to build the car! We have a short list of jobs we think we can knock off. Guessing we'll spend more time trying to work jobs out than actually using a spanner. Panic is subsiding slightly along with the 'What on earth have I done?' thoughts in the middle of the night. Pretty unimpressed with the manuals so far and the random way the parts a packed. Would prefer parts picked in modules that match sections of the manual. I.e. box one - front suspension. All you need to complete the front plus steering rack; corresponds to chapters 1 and 2 of the manual... sadly not the case! We will endeavour and work it out. Will be grateful for advice from members! I have two teenage boys to keep interested!!
  2. Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO

    Radiator Ducting

    Looking to improve the cooling on my 250. Have got honey comb mesh for grill which should improve airflow from ive gleaned from here. Looking to make, and fit ducting, after some advice, and couple of initial questions if yo would be so kind 1. Presume it's not 100% sealed to nose or intercooler (in front of rad in my case), am I correct? 2. Does it need to be long enough to reach into the return of the nose? 3. Any suggestions for materials, was thinking of something like 4mm "Corex" (twin wall plastic sheet). Want to keep it as light as possible, to not overload the radiator mounts. Any other hints, tips or photos would be much appreciated. This is my intercooler/radiator setup. Thanks for your help. Adge
  3. BugMan

    Standard Rear Roll Bar

    Having just finally fitted and riveted my 2 side panels and rear tub i then put in the 4 point harness eye bolts in to the top of the rear tub, I next wanted to fit the rear roll bar. In the fitting manual I have it suggest this should be 70mm in from the back edge, and this feel like its in the centre of the flat steep plate on the rear of the chassis i though I'd just check, does this look correct? I realise that most people fit a better rear cage, but this is what i have ATM, and I found that the FW manual for the rear eye bolts was way out,and fortunately i had a better way of lining these up, so they are all in OK, but the FW manual does not see to have anything about the rear cage in it. Marked out ready to be confirmed then too the distance between centres of my roll bar Much appreciate any help
  4. BugMan

    Exhaust fitting

    Just a quick question when it comes to fitting my exhaust does it need any sort of fixing past or compound?
  5. BugMan

    Fitting of body shell

    Again request for advice on the riveting of the shell to the chassis, as this is approaching fast. I've been through the FW manual again and can't remember much about how the shell and inside panels are to be fitted. Have some smaller black headed rivets in my supplied kit, but no real guidance on number of holes, pitch between or how many. I assume these are just for the 2 inside panels that go on the outside of the cabin, and then the rest of the shell attachment is just be normal 4mm plain rivets. Does the shell need any bonding like silicone or anything? Also any tips on putting the shell together? My rough plan was to assemble the rear section, side panels and rear wheel arches together on the drive once i had cut any holes for the filler and exhaust etc. and then attempt to fit this over the back of the car, with the first point of contact being the lip on the rear tub, and then hinge it down, but I'm open to any advice? Thanks in advance
  6. Just looking through my out-standing bits and came across the 2 headlight brackets, but can't find any reference So in the assum? Thanks in advance
  7. BugMan

    Quick electrical question

    Just playing around with my dash setup, and noticed that the horn works all the time, regardless of the position of the ignition key. Following things throughIi have sort of worked out that :- a) PURPLE is live 12+ all the time, seen on the Aux Plug and the Horn - PURPLE all the way back to the fuse block b) GREEN is switched 12+, from the Ignition key c) BLACK is common GROUND Just checking I've got things straight? I'm surprised the horn is operational all the time, was expecting it to be switched. On the same subject I'm assuming on my Sport250 start button, this would only be illuminated with the lights, as its quite a bright RED?
  8. BugMan

    Cutting holes in the body

    Ok team, after some advice as I have the holes to cut in the shell for various bits like the filler cap, exhaust, seat belt mountings etc. Any suggestions on the best way to make sure things line up, as cutting the shell scares the willies out of me? The actual cutting I think I have a good approach for either with cone drills/step cutters for small'ish holes or centre point drill and then 360Deg cutter blade followed by Dremel work to finish up. Any advice welcomed ad getting this wrong would obviously be a disaster.
  9. BugMan

    Dash board fixing

    Ok team, just finished getting my scuttle to fit onto the chassis as its currently got the rear-panel, and side panels fitted to locate the rather complicated cut-out for the fly-by-wire throttle. Have my dash fitted out with some of the switches etc, following AdgeC lay-out, without the AIM dash in it yet,and have just offered up the dash panel to roughly line up the edges. I also used a straight line to bend the 2 welded on brackets, to help support the dash, is that correct? I have worked out that the crash pad which goes around the outside must then cover the bolt's holding the dash to the scuttle, and following other builds am going to order the M4 clips https://www.amazon.co.uk/Speed-Fastener-Chimney-Tapping-Metric/dp/B01MCYOL7I/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521243951&sr=1-4&keywords=Metric+Screw+Lug+Spire+Clips Have not seen anybody really detail how many screws are generally used to bolt the two together, so looking for advise on how many to use? I'm then assuming that the crash pad is fixed using hook & loop tape to hold this in place? I like the idea of being able to drop out the dash if needed by just un-screwing after removing the crash pad. Have a bag odd button head M5 screws/washers/nyloc's x10 sets from WF, but that seems like a hell of a lot of LARGE fixings so am planing to switch to M4, and that I think nuts would be a b***h to un-do if I ever needed to remove
  10. Ok, just started looking at the rear lights on my Sport 250 build, think I've figured out what goes in what holes etc. Reversing and rear fog quite easy, although WF short on fitting nyloc nuts/washers. Looking at the LED ring/indicator - fitted yellow bulbs (for now as intend to switch to LED in the future) into the clear holder and can see then see how they screw into the outer ring with the 3 self-tappers. FW manual talks about bonding these into the rear tub with "Nail's" type products, and I'm looking for suggestions? Am I right to assume that the idea is to drill 3 matching holes through the tub, to match up with the 3 holes in the ring indicator, and then use some mastic (Nail's) type stuff to make it water-tight,and screw through from the inside, through the tub, into the ring? On the reflectors, am I also right to assume you just push the reflector into the middle of the red ring,and then fix in the same way as the brake/indicator? If so i think I'm also missing the self-tappers for this from WF? Appreciate any help and recommendations PS - i bought some Puraflex 40 for panel fitting, would this work for the lights? ;-
  11. BugMan

    Sound/ Heat insulation

    OK,this has been on my mind for a while, but I'm quickly reaching the point of having to make a decision,as I'm now very close to dropping my chassis off the tresses to axle stands, ready to try to fit the engine. I have taken note of Dave's thread where he fitted this Dynamat heat & sound matting to his cockpit and very much like the idea. So I'm at the point where if I'm going to fit something like this, I have the opportunity to fit this on the in-side of the tunnel paneling, before I fit the prop-shaft and engine/gearbox. Has anybody through, or even done this,and do the forum think it's worthwhile? Dave - if you had the choice would yo have fitted on the inside of the tunnel? Now I'm assuming Dave did this for a very good reason,and while I could follow his excellent idea on the floor of the cockpit, If I were to fit this on the inside of the tunnel panels, I think I would be saving a bit of hassle and room for the driver/passenger as lets be honest, I like my food. I could then apply the same logic on the inside of the outer panels. Be very grateful for any thoughts, if anybody has done this in the past,what material was used, how hot does the tunnel get in something comparable like the S2000 to my sport 250
  12. BugMan

    Fuel Tank Breather

    Just looking at the tank setup on my build, and seen a few peoples builds using a fuel filter in the breather tube. Thinking about it has anybody use a non-return valve, like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuel-Line-Return-Breather-Rollover/dp/B003UVZPI8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1512948393&sr=8-7&keywords=Fuel+Tank+Breather Take any feedback on this as an idea? Steve
  13. Mark Selby

    Starting a Build

    Hello, just taken delivery of my Sport250 kit. No manual as yet just the ten year old rolling chassis manual. Is it normal to wonder what the hell I've done? At the moment we think we'll spend more time trying to work it out than building...
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