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Found 19 results

  1. I purchased my 1990 Westfield last February as a (barely) running project with MOT. After a year long almost nut and bolt restoration (www.10-42.com/westfield) , which included a new stage 3 Crossflow engine, Type 9 gearbox, 3.54:1 CWP, drive shafts, coolant system, ignition system, alternator, starter, carburettor, water pump, battery, complete braking system, wheels, tyres, lights, instruments, carpets, repaint etc, it has passed it's MOT with no advisories! The reason for the post is that Manor Garage in Brundall, Norfolk were truly excellent and very Westfield friendly; being able to MOT the car on a Saturday was a real bonus. I also meant to say they also understood the "Q" plate testing parameters very well.
  2. Hello My wife has one wish for christmas,she wants me to be in my workshop for a longer time Therefore it would be good to find a second Westie... Good condition,a nice project,a damaged Westie,or a driveable one... Best would be first registration before 1991 Best regards Jürgen
  3. I know these are hard to find, but I am sick of beating on a 1300cc sump to get it to fit!
  4. Westfield SE Built as a track car but is road legal. Oz alloys, Corbeau seats, Willans 4 point harnesses, Momo steering wheel. Yokohama A008r tyres (tread is like that). Full spare (unused). Mileage 4600. Mechanic maintained. Original donor car registration plate. Always garaged. Never shunted. Racing spec chassis, 156bhp, rev limiter/change gear lights. 1600 Ford crossflow double valve spring head 711M block. Double twin choke 40 DCOE Weber carbs with K&N filters New rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes. New electronic ignition. New battery SORNed with no MoT at the moment. Starts and drives well. Receipts for several thousands of pounds. Several manuals. V5 shows car as 1977 Westfield 1600 and so should be eligible for zero road tax. House move forces sale.
  5. My 1600cc Crossflow 711M as fitted to the Westie had a heavy, cut and welded, baffled and very dented sump that didn't hold much oil. The oil strainer was also in a near vertical orientation, which I don't understand? Apart from that, the engine appears to be original on it's original crank bearings and bore. I have now had the engine completely rebuilt, but have come to fit a new rear bowl sump supposedly for the 711M engine but during the dry test fit and after turning the crank just a few degrees I could hear it was rubbing on the front crank web due to the fact that the new sump has a "trough" under the front crank web that had been removed on the modified sump that came with the engine. What is the trough for, can I simply widen it by a couple of mm, can it be removed or do I have the wrong sump ? Your thoughts greatly of appreciated
  6. 15th April 2018 - SOLD... End of an era... £4,500 for a 1992 registered Narrow Body Live Axle Ford Crossflow in navy blue 1,700 Twin Italian 40DCOE Webers, Kent 244 cam giving 90 wheel horsepower ONLY reason for sale is failing health…. Not man enough for a Xflow anymore… New springs and shocks, ‘new’ Type 3 gearbox, electronic ignition and new lights recently fitted. Body is scruffy and needs TLC on the gelcoat, there is no hand brake to speak of and the interior also needs some love. But the engine (and now gearbox) is a peach and that is all an Xflow is about. Recently Grizlee and Bollocky Bill did all the work mentioned above and @Grizzlee is happy to give folk an independent view on his condition (and he owes me a favour, it was that t***'s fault I got a Westie in the first place..!!!) If any of you are interested get in touch for a longer description. This is a chance to buy motoring history and make noises like the devil after a hot curry…
  7. Right the realisation that no matter how much stuff I do to the mighty crossflow I can't compete with the 16v engines in the speed series. Don't worry the cars not for sale I'm just having a clear out. So I have for sale various dry sump parts that would make a good kit Will get some photos together later 3x crossflow/Lotus twin cam dry sump pumps.£100 each 2x dry sump pans 1of which has bracket for alternator if used on formula ford £80 each 2x oil tanks will get sizes. £50 each Mocal remote filter housing £30 Mocal inline oil temp housing £30 Burton rocker cover suitable for dry sump application. £80 If you wanted a pump, sump, tank,rocker cover, remote filter housing and oil temp adapter. So full kit apart from pipework Individually would be £370 would do a deal. Thanks
  8. Hi, I have a genuine Westfield crossflow stainless steel exhaust manifold. Unfortunately I couldn't use it, or modify it to fit the pre-lit chassis. In good condition, but has been slightly modified by a previous owner, as shown in the photos. How does £25.00 + postage sound. Happy for it to be collected from Buckingham. cheers Gary
  9. I am new to the Forum - Hello - this may be apparent if I have failed to post this note correctly. I have joined on Trial Membership for 60 days, but hope that will turn into full membership soon. I am a long term car enthusiast, particularly classics, but have never owner a Westfield - the time has come I feel. I have driven them on the track a few times in my past, but never owned one. My other cars, in case this helps gauge my weird tastes are a '69 MGC, a Saxo VTS, a Riley Elf and my daily driver an Audi S3 - all are fun in their own way, but I feel the need for simple driving pleasures, and open motoring, and the Westfield seems the car - something I have always promised myself to own, but never have - I have garage space. First, I suspect mid July is about the worst time to buy one, I realise, but I would like to buy a car this year, but only to buy the right one, and if I have to wait, I will. From the (very) little I have learnt so far, I want a car that I can be proud of, and enjoy for regular but not every day use, with weather gear, albeit I shall try and keep it in the dry. I want a swift car, car engined, but I want a classic set up, so not looking for an Seight, or anything wickedly fast. So, some questions, for anyone out there who can help:- 1. My budget was originally c. £6-7k, but it seems I shall need to stretch this a little - I want a nice car, so can I do that for c. £8k? 2. For that money, what Spec should I be looking to. A friend has a 2 litre Zetec and says this mis the engine to have - I expect this alone could spark a hundred differing views. I am not sure this is within my budget, but am I going to disappointed with the power from another car. MY gut feeling is to go for an older SE or SEi (or SEiW), with a cross flow engine with webers, as this seemed like a good compromise - views? 3. Are there dealers out there to trust, or avoid, and that the Club approves of that I can seek out? Ultimately, I want a car that I can take to shows, drive in nice weather and have short weekends away in with a small overnight bag - and just enjoy simple fast handling, un-fussy. I am not very mechanically minded, so I want a car that is ready to go. Finally, I would say that I had originally considered having a car to race with - I have a race licence and have recently stopped classic racing in an MG. I do however want a car that would be both a road and race car, and I am not sure if that is realistic? If so, is the Speed Series worth joining, competitive and friendly for a Westfield novice, and can I enjoy owning a race car, and use it also at weekends or for a fun drive to work? If sense dictates these should be two separate cars, I shall probably invest in a road car and look for racing thrills elsewhere. Help and pointers much appreciated thank you R
  10. The replacement distributor that I fitted a year or so ago has self-destructed. It was a cheap part from eBay and the clasps never did hold the cap on properly... you only had to look at them for them to ping off. Anyway, the car wouldn't start a couple of weeks ago and the top of the distributor is now damaged beyond repair. I could replace like-for-like, but this time either hope for a better fitting part or drill, tap and bolt the cap on. But I am drawn to the promise of improved drivability that comes with a mappable ECU. I'm thinking now that I am going to bit the bullet and go distributor-less and use an ECU. I have found plenty of helpful information on here and think I now understand how such a system (regardless of manufacturer) hangs together, e.g. crank sensor, throttle position sensor, ECU, EDIS (limp home mode), and coil. With that in mind, the alternatives appear much of a muchness, so I can't work out how to choose between them. On price it appears that a Megajolt kit from Trigger Wheels wins hands-down. Is there anything I am missing as to the functionality of other brands, e.g. DTA, Omex, QED, etc? Things that would interest me are more of the practicalities: Can the software be run on a Mac (as I'd rather not use the work laptop but I could if pushed). Is the ECU small, easy to mount. Availability of a xflow map to get me started as its a bit of a trek over to Blink Club discounts P.S. I rang Blink (as they will be doing the mapping) and spoke to Richard; they have the software to map most anything so there doesn't appear to be any reason to choose one over the other from a mapping perspective.
  11. 2001 Westfield SEW - 1700cc Crossflow Sold and gone! Westfield Chrome Yellow Configuration 711M Block bored and honed to 1700cc Piper BP285 “Ultimate road” Cam 1300 AE pistons high compression Type 18647 Vulcan maxiflow 2 Head, ported and for oversize seats and valves (inlet 41.3mm, outlet 34.9mm) Brise high torque starter motor Double value spring and cap set Twin Webber Burton power FP201A high pressure oil pump Burton Power FP280A aluminium breather / catch tank Cast aluminium baffled sump Aldon automotive non-vac-advance mag-trigger distributor(103FXYS) Lumenitium leads Toothed belt water-pump and alternator drive Gell lightweight battery Ford RS Mexico English Axle Diff Ratio 3.89:1 w/ 9” drums ​Spax shocks Type 9 - 5 Speed box Momo Mod.27 290mm steering Wheel Rapfix Quick Release self centre hub Plays Kool - Lightweight Full Cage (Fitted by Plays Kool) CarbonMods Carbon wheel arch protectors Rear high break-light Titon 5 point harness (crotch strap not fitted but supplied) Westfield race seats Full folder of every (and I mean every) receipt for the cars life. Covercraft cover under which it is always stored when garaged.
  12. Hi there, I have a Westfield which I have re-built with my dad, unfortunately he passed away and was the person I would ask for engine bits, so here I am It was a racing westfield, with a tuned engine, it was then in a crash, and we bought it, and re-built it, so we could run it on the road. We have now pretty much replacing every part, I am having trouble with the engine losing power once I am out and running. After about 20mins of driving, I can be accelerating, and then the car starts to drop power instantly and splutters, then the power comes back, then it will drop again, needing to change down and slow down, then I can go again, and its fine. This will again happen.. and needs to cool down, before it is ok again.. We replaced the fuel pump recently and it made no difference. Someone said to me, it might be the spark plugs? That they might need a different set-up - but I have no idea. Any one got any ideas, or where to go from here.. or had similar problems? I am taking the car to be set-up correctly, adjusted for all its parts at a racing workshop, but they have asked me to run all the parts in for a few hundred miles, before they will set the car up.. thanks nick
  13. After a bit of a wait for the right time to bring it home, here's my latest project. I'll let the pictures do the work. So, it's not been on the road a while and needs a wash! I got quite excited over the slot mags having never thought they'd work on a Westfield but I do rather like them. The car has a 1600cc crossflow with a twin choke carb, 4 speed 'box and a live axle. If anyone knows anything about it I'd love to know more.
  14. More of a post for the archives really!!!! For any and all staring down the barrel of £45 for a fancy alloy breather cap from Burton Power, or £7+p&p for that awful looking yellow one (which im convinced is deliberate to make you fork out for the alloy one). The filler cap for an Austin Maestro or Montego is EXACTLY the same fit, identical to the yellow one that Burton sell BUT in a nice neutral black colour. It's taken months of searching and researching, but I finally found an old forum post on a Maestro owners forum, where one single line mentioned it was the same as for old Fords. All I had to go on was an old Austin part number, which I then traced to an old website and found an "alternative" part number, which then lead me to the ads on ebay Edit - 2014/07/20 - Part number POBC01, seems to be the yellow cap, searching for "POBC01 oil cap" will bring up a bunch of "alternative" replacements. I just got one on Ebay for £6.61 delivered
  15. THIS CAR HAS NOW BEEN SOLD Westfield SE Wide Body
  16. My crossflow powered Westy has been off the road for quite a number of years (8 years) after it became afflicted with a bogging down on acceleration problem (only when warm) and so many "recommended" people took so much money off me without actually fixing the problem (not to mention causing hidden damage to the car), that I was forced to take the car off the road. This year, finally in a well (enough) paid job and not hopping between redundancies, I finally have the cash to start getting this thing back in working order, i've decided to stay away from rip off merchants and basically replace everything until the problem goes away. I've done a lot of work, but I'm stuck on a few very silly things, replacing the misab plates (which are fitted wrong and looking rather tired), cleaning/servicing the carbs and replacing the inlet manifold gasket. My problem is the throttle cable linkage, which requires two flat bladed screwdrivers which cannot be fit into the space available, attempts to remove the throttle cable have resulted in the damage seen (hopefully) in the pictures below. I can't remove the misab plates without getting the carbs out of the car and I can't do that without releasing the throttle cable. If I attempt to carry out this job without removing the carbs from the car, i'm probably going to end up damaging the brake lines or the dizzy. Basically I didn't build the car and this is some silly DIY throttle cable linkage and everything is in the way of everything else...... It's like a jigsaw puzzle. Alternatively, if I have to cut through that clamp (I can't find anything like a replacement), i'm thinking of using a bolt and a lock nut to replace it, then a wire rope thimble and some wire rope clamps to create a loop at the end of the throttle cable. Does anyone know of another way I can do this? Does my "solution" sound reasonable? Assistance greatly appreciated!
  17. Greetings!! Whilst i'm rebuilding the carbs (waiting on a few parts), I decided to change the condenser on the distributor and also to dismantle and check/lube the advance. Can someone in the know, please tell me if this photo looks correct? (ignore the red splodges, it's grease) The red arrows point to the advance mechanism, the blue arrows/dots point to holes in the base of the dizzy at 12, 3, 6 and 9 oclock. Can anyone tell me if the mechanism should be lined up and bolted to the dizzy case? I didn't find any loose screws, im fairly confident it's "ok", but when I see holes that look like they should line up I get a little curious/concerned/confused......
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