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Found 11 results

  1. I have decided to add a header tank to the cooling system on my xflow engined Westfield. I have been running without a header tank since getting the car and in the main have not had any cooling issues. However, in the recent +30℃ weather, it has been getting very warm when caught in traffic jams so I thought I would add a header tank to try and improve the situation. The added bonus is avoiding having to check/top-up with water before every journey. I have purchased a Westfield specific header tank from ARF and have been researching the optimum cooling system layout. I wondered if anyone has done similar or has any advice/comments on whether this will layout will work well? The radiator has an outlet at the top but this is lower than the outlet on the thermostat housing. In my current setup, this outlet is capped off and will stay so in the new setup. Previously, the outlet at the top of the thermostat housing just went onto the road. As the 10mm outlet on the header tank will be the highest point, it makes sense to connect the two. As I understand it, I need to replace the pressurised cap that is currently on the thermostat housing with a non-pressurised cap. This way, the only pressurised cap will be on the header tank. Finally, the bottom of the header tank has a 19mm outlet to connect to the bottom hose, before the water pump. For the plumbing itself, I am planning on using a mixture of aluminium pipe and silicone hose as there are some lengthy distances to cover with silicone hose alone. Your comments (positive or negative) would be most welcome. I am trying to get it right first time and avoid a lot of trial and error.
  2. AlexSB

    Fitting a breather on a Xflow

    Hi all, Latest in my line of daft questions! I've done little bit of work over the weekend, involving fitting a catch tank to try relieve some of the fumes I'm getting from the oil cap. The setup from the cap to the new catch tank is easy to fit. However, replacing the 'to atmosphere' breather with the elbow connector to the tank has me puzzled. I don't think there's anything else I need to buy to connect it. But, currently I can't see any method of affixing it. I've attached some photos of the new setup and the old to atmosphere filter. I'd be grateful if anyone who has done this can point me in the right direction. Cheers, Alex
  3. I've a fairly unmolested Xflow 1600 which is kicking out a fair amount of fumes through the oil cap when warm. There's always a bit of blow by from cold, but once it's hot, there's sometimes a noticeable cloud that emerges from the front of the bonnet when stopped at lights. The car has no recirculation system for dealing with fumes in the rocker cover (it seems most recirculate from the breather back to the air filter?) so I had always expected a small amount of smoke, but this seems more serious. I've uploaded a video from today: https://youtu.be/4ThHeHdG-VI Does this look dire? Especially considering there is no recirculation happening at the moment. If so, is the most probable cause bad piston rings? The engine was meant to have been overhauled only 1600 miles ago, so it seems odd for them to have failed already. Thanks in advance for any light you guys can shed on it. Alex
  4. Hi all. I'm a new Westie (SE, 1600) owner. And know now that I've a hundred annoying questions coming up in the coming months. I thought I'd start an 'is this normal for a Xflow' thread, so that any future newbie doesn't have to ask the same silly questions I do. My first daft question. I've just been out for my first proper run (and what a day for it!). A lovely drive and, even though not super quick having no power upgrades, great fun - I get the Xflow sound now! When I arrived, and was finding a parking space, I noticed that the oil pressure was dipping under '20' when idling, after being fairly steady between '30' and '40' while idling and driving when not as warm. Is this pretty normal when up to temperature (around 90-95C)? Picture attached.
  5. Jürgen Dietrich

    Looking for a SE Narrow

    Hello My wife has one wish for christmas,she wants me to be in my workshop for a longer time Therefore it would be good to find a second Westie... Good condition,a nice project,a damaged Westie,or a driveable one... Best would be first registration before 1991 Best regards Jürgen
  6. B.RAD

    Crossflow engine build

    Two reasons for starting this thread: 1) it will force me to get on with it and 2) i hope to be able to benefit from the cumulative wisdom of our members! Step 1 - almost critical for a project like this finishing off the Christmas stock Step 2 - been a lot of bedtime reading recently, still got a huge amount to learn as not attempted anything like this for a very long time!
  7. The replacement distributor that I fitted a year or so ago has self-destructed. It was a cheap part from eBay and the clasps never did hold the cap on properly... you only had to look at them for them to ping off. Anyway, the car wouldn't start a couple of weeks ago and the top of the distributor is now damaged beyond repair. I could replace like-for-like, but this time either hope for a better fitting part or drill, tap and bolt the cap on. But I am drawn to the promise of improved drivability that comes with a mappable ECU. I'm thinking now that I am going to bit the bullet and go distributor-less and use an ECU. I have found plenty of helpful information on here and think I now understand how such a system (regardless of manufacturer) hangs together, e.g. crank sensor, throttle position sensor, ECU, EDIS (limp home mode), and coil. With that in mind, the alternatives appear much of a muchness, so I can't work out how to choose between them. On price it appears that a Megajolt kit from Trigger Wheels wins hands-down. Is there anything I am missing as to the functionality of other brands, e.g. DTA, Omex, QED, etc? Things that would interest me are more of the practicalities: Can the software be run on a Mac (as I'd rather not use the work laptop but I could if pushed). Is the ECU small, easy to mount. Availability of a xflow map to get me started as its a bit of a trek over to Blink Club discounts P.S. I rang Blink (as they will be doing the mapping) and spoke to Richard; they have the software to map most anything so there doesn't appear to be any reason to choose one over the other from a mapping perspective.
  8. BillyPee

    Worn Xflow Engine Mount Bushes

    I've been putting up with worn engine mount bushes for a few years (since I purchased the Westfield actually). At idle the engine wobbles excessively. After fixing the blowing exhaust last year the exhaust is blowing again and it seems likely that the excessive wobble permitted by the worn engine mount bushes is a big part of the problem. When I took the car to Blink the first thing Richard said when he started it up was that the engine mounts have gone soft... now that someone else has noticed I've decided to do something about it! I have an early (1993) widebody SEiW with a Ford Kent (Crossflow) engine and, as you can see, the bushes look worn and twisted and well past their best. Nearside Offside Actually, the nearside looks worse that the offside and it might be newer because it doesn't seem to have any overspray on it from when a previous owner had the car painted white. I searched this forum to try and find the part number and found this thread. It seems that the type of engine mount I have (inclined type with the rubber bushing bonded to to metal plates) are known to plain suck and that I'd be better off with engine mounts which allow the bush/bobbin to be mounted horizontally. However, I'm still inclined to just replace the rubber bushes as having my engine mounts modified sounds like lots of hassle and the thread talks about increased NVH and hints at the problem being with higher powered xflows than mine (about 110 bhp). Does anyone know if there are off the shelf replacement engine mounts that just bolt in? What do other people have for xflow engine mounts? And, if I do just replace my existing rubber bushes, what part number of car are they off? Can I replace the bushes by carefully (i.e. spreading the load) jacking up the engine slightly from from beneath or do I need to hire an engine hoist (or take to a local garage)? Thanks in advance, Bill
  9. luxseven

    Lighten the flywheel on a xflow

    Hi folks, Currently planning to build a xflow, all kinds of parts lying around, some more to buy when I start the build. Stage 3 head and 234 cam and 41.3/34.9 valves on twin springs in stock, twin chain and adjustable timing gear, high flow dry sump oil pump a.s.o. I'm not in a hurry, but may be on a budget, so whenever I can DIY I will. How about a lightened flywheel? The engine will land in my 520kg Westy one day, mostly road use, but I want a happily fast revving engine. I can live with lumpy idle, that's not an issue, but... - start from a standard flywheel, shave some weight, take it to a shop for balancing - how much weight to take off and where the best - invest and buy a readily balanced/lightened flywheel after seeing nasty pics The weight should be a good compromise but tend more to the racey part of my driver's soul. Thanks for your input! Cheers. Jos
  10. Edit: dry sump setup still available, everything else now sold. As I am on to pastures new, it is time to pass on the mighty crossflow collection that I have gathered. List below, photos available on request. All prices exclude postage, obviously the engines and cylinder heads would need to be collected. Dry sump set up: Pace oil tank, Titan 5 port dry sump pump, Piper dry sump pan, remote oil filter. Over £1000 worth of dry sump setup. Will include all pipework etc although you may wish to change this to suit your routing. £offersEngines: Rebuilt 711m short block, just bored and honed by Headline MK to plus 90thou to make it a 1700. 1300 pistons (for higher compression, takes it from 9:1 to 10.5:1), standard conrods and crank (crank reground +10thou), Kent 234 cam, single vernier timing gear. 3 fresh coats of black engine enamel. Cost me £500 in parts and machining so just looking to recover that cost. Will provide a brand new set of gaskets and covers etc if needed. £500 Rebuilt 711m short block, rebuilt 800 miles ago with 1300 pistons (10.5:1 compression ratio), standard conrods, crank reground +30thou, Vegantune VT2 (same as Kent 244) cam, duplex vernier timing gear and chain. Made 130bhp at Northampton Motorsports in June this year. Available in September (currently in car) £500 711m engine block, bored out +90thou and skimmed but this was before my time, so I would suggest checking for tolerance before building up £50 Cylinder Heads etc:Big valve cylinder head, exhaust and inlet ported (very large), just had new guides fitted and a skim at Headline MK at a cost of £180 (head and valves only), will paint black or red as preferred! £200 Big valve cylinder head, exhaust and inlet ported, double valve springs, steel post rockers, checked by Headline MK 800 miles ago and confirmed to be in great condition. Fresh black enamel paint. £275 Standard 1600 cylinder head, complete, looks good but I haven't tested it £100 Rocker set with steel posts £40 Rocker cover with two breather vent caps £20 Cams, cranks and timing gears:1600GT cam with matched 711m followers £25 Brand new Piper BP270 fast road cam with matched brand new single springs £100 Good spare 1600 crank £20 Standard timing gear and chain £5 Ancillaries:Distributer (vac type) complete £10 Water pump x 2 £5 each Oil pump x 2 £5 each Mechanical fuel pump x 2 £5 each Standard alternator (untested) £10 Starter motor £10 Any questions feel free to ask!Cheers Barny
  11. More of a post for the archives really!!!! For any and all staring down the barrel of £45 for a fancy alloy breather cap from Burton Power, or £7+p&p for that awful looking yellow one (which im convinced is deliberate to make you fork out for the alloy one). The filler cap for an Austin Maestro or Montego is EXACTLY the same fit, identical to the yellow one that Burton sell BUT in a nice neutral black colour. It's taken months of searching and researching, but I finally found an old forum post on a Maestro owners forum, where one single line mentioned it was the same as for old Fords. All I had to go on was an old Austin part number, which I then traced to an old website and found an "alternative" part number, which then lead me to the ads on ebay Edit - 2014/07/20 - Part number POBC01, seems to be the yellow cap, searching for "POBC01 oil cap" will bring up a bunch of "alternative" replacements. I just got one on Ebay for £6.61 delivered
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