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Darve's Build Diary


darve

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Looking good Dave, white dial are a nice touch.  :t-up:  :t-up:

 

And very neat.

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Cheers guys :t-up: Couldn't do it with out the help of this forum :d

 

Question time now :blush:

 

I went to fit the rear brakes and the one of the piston wind back doesn't seem to be working. I'm think the piston may be seized. I got it back so far with a few taps of a hammer :oops: I can get the caplier over the pads/disc but it's so tight and that the disk rubs on the pads

 

20130306_205920_zps0e298235.jpg

 

Looing at the this picture you can see it's not as wound back as the other side (top one is the one with the issue)

 

20130306_210023_zps428c9aa2.jpg

 

Using the built in wound back tool doesn't work as the "cog" is just jumping on the teeth :no:

 

Am I going to have to source another one  :down: ?

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If it's just rubbing then a few miles will soon sorted it out and probably just wound back to its max with new pads and some high spots.

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Isn't the wind back adjuster just for the handbrake? The pistons don't wind they should just push back in with the use of a g-clamp.

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I think I've got a rear calliper for that side spare. It's not as pretty as that one mind. I had the same problem but it was a seized slider for me, then I ordered the wrong side hence the spare one.

 

The adjustment skips on mine when it's at full extent.

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Some wind back pistons are sided, ie  screw in clockwise on one side of the car and anticlockwise on the other, not sure if this is so on the Mazda,  I know they are sided on Toyotas..   Mark should know this.

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I was posting from the mobile earlier so couldn't type such a lengthy reply, but the Mazda pistons don't rotate or screw in and out, they move in a linear action with no rotation. They don't move that freely but you can push them back by carefully using a g-clamp around the piston and caliper.

The allen key adjuster is mainly just for fine tuning and setting of the handbrake adjustment and then doesn't do much until the brakes are actually bled.

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Cheers guys - I'll see what i can achieve tomorrow. The workshop manual i have refers to it as an adjuster to back off the piston. Will try the g cramp :)

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Couldnt resist trying it out :) g cramp worked a treat. Top marks smokey :p

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:yes: I'm impressed you were out in the garage at midnight :laugh:
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Glad that is sorted.  Don't forget to wind the adjusters back in when setting the handbrake.  Took me ages to work out why the brakes worked but the handbrake wouldn't!  As Smokey says, these are for the handbrake only.

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Have been continuing with the wiring. Custom fuse/relay box now made up. Need to buy a couple more relays and fuses.

 

20130308_154909_zpsda9db0b4.jpg

 

20130308_161812_zps7202e7be.jpg

 

I have realised I haven't fused the cable to the ignition switch :down: This is the feed from the start motor (where main lead from battery will connect). I take it this needs to have a fuse before the ignition switch?

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omex ECU and associated bits ordered today :t-up:

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Neat looking fuse/relay box. :yes:

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Neat looking fuse/relay box. :yes:

 

Thanks :cool:

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