Dommo Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Wow that's a quick turn around. Good luck!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 It's all looking good, Gary. Out of interest, did you get the headlight bracket covers with the kit? A lot easier than several rolls of tape! Still got mine fitted as they don't look too bad. The only thing I'd say is that the external nut covers - windscreen and lower nose cone - could fly off on the drive there, so either take spares or fit them at the Centre. FWIW I didn't cover the lower nose cone bolt and nothing was said at the test. Got everything crossed for you - hope it all goes well. Thanks Mooch The headlight bracket covers are a combination of a bit of u-trim, some foam pipe lagging and insulation tape, so nothing fancy! I will probably pop the bolt covers on the screen and nosecone in my pocket before the drive, good tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanoecosse Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Gary did you silicone the nut covers on? If not, dab a wee drop of silicone on them to help them stick on better. Also I couldn't see your front braided brake hoses in your photo. Thats not it covered in the conduit and tie wrapped to the wishbone is it? If so, you'll need to take it off and let it float free. I was pulled up at IVA when one of my flexi hoses touched the wishbone on full lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Almost there now if you want to shorten the strap on the spare wheel cover you can, I deliberately left in longer than it needed to be so you could work out where best to put the turnbuckle. just cut the webbing with a good pair of sissors and then seal the cut in the flame of a lighter to stop it from fraying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Yes Mark, I am going to do that sometime before the test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Gary did you silicone the nut covers on? If not, dab a wee drop of silicone on them to help them stick on better. Also I couldn't see your front braided brake hoses in your photo. Thats not it covered in the conduit and tie wrapped to the wishbone is it? If so, you'll need to take it off and let it float free. I was pulled up at IVA when one of my flexi hoses touched the wishbone on full lock. The braided brake hoses are free and covered in convo tubing. The convo tubing that is tie wrapped to the wishbone is for the button indicator cables. I siliconed some of the nut covers that were not a nice snug fit, others were a job to get on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westford Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 What about the nuts on the top wishbone ball-joints? Westford Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Done some more IVA work this evening Firstly - top wishbone ball joints Dean - in this photo you can see the brake line is free I was a little bit concerned about the ECU mounting plate, as well as the horizontal chassis member that it fits to. so I started with some pipe lagging on the chassis member, followed by 4 layers of scrim foam left over from the dash refurb to cover the back of some pop rivets used to mount the ecu brackets I then covered this with some leftover vinyl from the dash refurb Then some pipe lagging over the scuttle/tub joint, stuck with a blob of no nails on the locating blocks Then finally, I made up some laminated gearbox layout pictures in various sizes, and have superglued and taped one to the bottom spoke of the steering wheel, as the gearlever-knoob in the car now has no markings on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Good job Gary another hurdle out of the way You were right about the emissions though, and you're engine should easily be able to pass the stricter limits, the figures I've got for mine from SVA were: CO %vol - 0.02 ppm HC - 10 Lambda - 1.003 Knowing you've got a new oxygen sensor and have previously tested the AFM, I'd double check the engine temperature sensor on the rear of the block is working and feeding back to the ecu. I haven't looked but I'm sure Rods will tell you the hot and cold resistance for it which you should then be able to test by running the car up to temperature, turning off the ignition and then unplugging the connector to test the sensor in situ. Smokey - I ran a diagnostics tonight and the error code 26 has dissapeared, as I bought a 3 way solenoid purge valve and put it on the loom - good news Surprise surprise, I now have error code 9 - water thermistor! I think it is not the time to start taking the car apart though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Gary, wrap some foam around the ignition barrel as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooch Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Gimmie a clue, Gary, What are the two blue pipes I can see going through the scuttle to the left of the ECU in the picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Gimmie a clue, Gary, What are the two blue pipes I can see going through the scuttle to the left of the ECU in the picture? Eagle eyed Mooch! They are bits of silicone tube that are covering the windscreen pillar bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I know this is all the regs and all designed to make everyone safer, but as everyone simply removes it afterwards and it never gets inspected again, I really do think much of it is a waste of money for the builder and that the system is an for requiring it. Rant over - you've done a great job mate, Godzilla is getting impatient, but I've told him he can't do his happy dance until you get your number plates. He's not best pleased, I can tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thanks Cap'n - and I agree - most of it will be off again straight afterwards, apart from the foam and vinyl on the ecu plate - as I used some "correct" spray glue for that left over from the dashboard refurb As for Godzilla - feed him another human limb to keep him quiet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 As for Godzilla - feed him another human limb to keep him quiet That'll be easier once I get my hands on the membership list. If your doorbell rings after May and you hear a roar outside, I'd advise you not to answer the door, or send out your in-laws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.