Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 smokey, did that fabricator shorten your sump? if so, you don't happen to have the dimensions he worked to do you ? Sorry I missed that question in amongst the slight thread drift last night No Martin didn't shorten my sump, although I'm likely to be using him to do the one for my narrow since the guy that did my first one no longer has access to tig At that time I did all the cutting myself with the angle grinder, and then gave him the sump and 5mm bottom plate to weld on. Just cut the bottom off the sump so it's level with the bottom of the gearbox bellhousing and modify the oil pickup pipe to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Pickup pie smokey? You wont get in that narrow Sorry, drifting again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Pickup pie smokey? You wont get in that narrow Sorry, drifting again Mmmmm Pies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Well I have made a lot of progress this weekend. Very little on the donor I'm afraid, but I'm now a married man The weather was more than perfect and my wife looked as gorgeous as ever. We're off on our honeymoon next Monday for two Weeks and then I can crack on will the donor! I have made some minor progress. nothing enough to warrant some photos or significant explanation! I need to pick up a ball joint splitter and another breaker bar. I have managed to shear the end of the knuckle on the one I bought earlier this month! it's on those damn hub nuts that have yet to come undone!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Congrats to you both You'll need a heafty bar for the hub nuts, they're torqued to about 220-290Nm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Congrats on your Wedding Dave and have a nice 2 weeks honeymoon . For some strange reason I'm wondering if your mind will be on your wife or the Build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I left the drive shafts attached to the hub and removed them from the diff. That's largely because I forgot to undo them whilst the brakes were still attached to the donor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chri5 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 The hub nuts on mine took two days of soaking, a breaker bar and a 7' scaffolding pole, almost lifted the car of the stands trying to undo, but undo they did after a fair amount of swearing. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mi7rennie Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 You'll be wanting some of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stubby-Fastener-Clamps-5-32-Cleco-Wedgelock-Kwikloc-10p-/280260338306?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4140d16282 Great for when you're doing the chassis panels. Get the special pliers that go with them too. The only other special tool I would recommend is a rivnut gun. Great tool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Much like Dom my shafts were never removed from the uprights. Unless you have a need to separate them to replace a bearing or CV gator, I'd suggest not bothering since once you've got them out you'll then have to get them torqued back up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 I think I may just leave them attached then one question though......I had the side I was attempting to undo on axle stands with the car in gear and handbrake on. other side was on the ground. when attempting to undo the nut and shaft would then spin. I thought the other wheel would lock it through the differential??? does this indicate a problem? I then took a cap off the middle our the wheel so could then try and undo with both rear wheels on the ground but then sheared the knuckle on the breaker bar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 The chances are since you have an Eunos that it's got a limited slip diff so it won't behave in the same way as a geared diff. If you've got bolt on shafts (to the diff) it's easy to tell which diff you have, but with push in's you can only tell visually once the shafts are removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 the rear disks on my donor fairly covered in rust. The passenger side rear is 100% covered in probably about 2mm thick don't think that one was working!! I'm guessing it would be advisable to replace so was looking around and found these: http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/discs-pads-package-deal-mazda-mk225-standard-brake-p-1611.html what are your thoughts?? seems a good deal to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooch Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I used MX5 parts for all of my brake stuff, and more besides and found them to be very good. This looks like a rather good deal to me, in fact, it's a bit of a bargain. I'd have no problems going for it. I didn't replace my discs and pads as they were in fairly good nick, but I see theat they have a Mk 1 deal as well for £70 inc vat for the full set, which sounds very tempting. Thanks for flagging it up, Darve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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