Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 Yep I wire a six inch piece of board with "no oil", or whatever critical message needed, on to the electrical isolator key. Quote
KugaWestie Posted December 13, 2011 Author Posted December 13, 2011 Yes it is a good constant reminder The gearbox is full of oil already, but the engine is not yet, so have just left it on there. When the time comes to fire up, the excitement of it could easily make you forget Quote
KugaWestie Posted December 13, 2011 Author Posted December 13, 2011 Fitted the gearstick gaitor tonight and topped up the turret with gearbox oil, then refitted the gearstick. Then I fitted the bracket that I knocked up yesterday to support the MAS and cone on the intake system Tigbrother - another shot of the cone - should be ok? Then I fitted the aluminium bung to the coolant housing on the front of the engine. Finally, I started changing the bolts on the side screens, more to do yet, but wanted to see how they looked. Quote
TIG Brother Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 Yeah that should be fine Gary. Think it was just the angle of the picture. The only fun part is getting access to the bolts that hold on the nose cone on with the intake where it is. Quote
Mark (smokey mow) Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 The only fun part is getting access to the bolts that hold on the nose cone on with the intake where it is. That's why mines held on now with dzus slide catches. It's much easier to slide a catch and unclip the nose than it was to try and get a socket on the bolts. http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin....y930166 Quote
KugaWestie Posted December 13, 2011 Author Posted December 13, 2011 The only fun part is getting access to the bolts that hold on the nose cone on with the intake where it is. That's why mines held on now with dzus slide catches. It's much easier to slide a catch and unclip the nose than it was to try and get a socket on the bolts. http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin....y930166 I like those - just ordered some Quote
Mark (smokey mow) Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 I like those - just ordered some I'll help you spend your money Gary Wait till it's complete, then well introduce you to upgrades Quote
KugaWestie Posted December 13, 2011 Author Posted December 13, 2011 I like those - just ordered some I'll help you spend your money Gary Wait till it's complete, then well introduce you to upgrades I have already got some winter 2012 projects lined up, not even built it yet! Quote
Dommo Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 Good to see my second build manual progressing well Quote
KugaWestie Posted December 14, 2011 Author Posted December 14, 2011 Good to see my second build manual progressing well Come on Dommo, get that completion kit collected and crack on Quote
hilux Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 Another "tip" for any restorer/builder If there is any situation that you can drop a bolt in from the top so the nut is at the bottom so if the nut comes off or undoes then the bolt is more likely to stay in place whereas the other way around the bolt will drop out Quote
KugaWestie Posted December 14, 2011 Author Posted December 14, 2011 I completed the steering column assembly tonight I also fitted the VDO water coolant temperature sender and thread reducer to the 1600 thermostat cover on the back of the engine Finally, I completed changing the bolts over on the side screens. So I guess I cannot put it off any longer, next task is the wiring loom Quote
Mark (smokey mow) Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 If you put the rigid pipe to the expansion tank below the chassis braces as opposed to above them you'll be able to gain a bit more clearance for the sensor and the thermostat housing. It'll then also make access for changing the thermostat a lot easier if ever needed. You might need to bend it slightly in a couple of places to make it fit properly. Sorry best photo I can find. Quote
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 Another "tip" for any restorer/builder If there is any situation that you can drop a bolt in from the top so the nut is at the bottom so if the nut comes off or undoes then the bolt is more likely to stay in place whereas the other way around the bolt will drop out scratches head Quote
Mooch Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 Gary, FWIW, when it came to covering the gap between the footwell bulkhead and the steering column, I took a circle of rubber from an old inner tube, cut out a snug hole the same width as the column and made a neat cut from one edge to t'other so i could slip it over the column. When it was siliconed in place against the bulkhead it looked neat and Mr IVA liked it, too. Mike Quote
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