Jump to content
  • Malvern, Help Registration Closed
  • Malvern, Help Registration Closed
  • Malvern, Help Registration Closed

Kugawestie's MX5 SDV Build Thread - Now An Upgrade Thread


KugaWestie

Recommended Posts

No problem Gary any time.

With my air intake, where it sits behind the rad. I fitted some ally sheet that ducts the warm air from the rad down and away from the filter. Then using some donkey d**k piping I have run a cold air feed direct from the front grille directly onto the air filter.

I have got some ducting in stock to run a cold air feed from the front grille as well  :t-up:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spent some time in the garage this afternoon, and got the coolant re-route all in place, just missing a couple of jubilee clips to complete it.

Photobucket

Also I fitted a pair of horns

Photobucket

Need to pick up some more clips to complete the coolant and also the fuel lines

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Completed the coolant re-route today, all nicely jubilee clipped.

SAM_0354.jpg

I also completed the fuel lines, so the fuel installation is now done and dusted too.

I have worked out that I can reuse the 1800 thermostat cover removed from the rear of the engine, by fitting it to the front of the engine. This will enable me to refit the cooling fan sensor at the front of the engine. The outlet on the housing will be plugged up.

I have also found a thread reducer that will take the M16 thread in the 1600 thermostat cover now fitted at the rear of the engine to 1/8 NPTF. With this reducer inserted it will mean that I can then screw the VDO coolant temperature sender into it. This is because I cannot get the VDO sensor to fit in the tapped hole in the block where the original Mazda one is fitted.

I also started rigging up the induction system today, and have my positions marked for the tee offs needed for the throttle and crank breather.

SAM_0353.jpg

I have also marked up a position on the exhaust downpipe for the lambda sensor boss. This is all now in a carrier bag ready to take to get welded this week.

Still need to complete the steering column, but there is a bit of painting to do first, as the powder coating has been knocked around quite a bit.

Then I guess it will be time for the dreaded wiring loom  :sheep:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the flexible pipe that goes from the cam cover breather to the chromed rigid pipe there is an orrifice that reduces it's effective bore to about 3mm.  If you haven't already make sure you fit this into the silicone hose that you've used to replace the original mazda part.  Chances are you wont be able to push it out of the old hose so it will need cutting out.

With a closed breather system if you leave it out the inlet will put too much of a vacuum on the cam cover and it'll burn oil excessively.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the flexible pipe that goes from the cam cover breather to the chromed rigid pipe there is an orrifice that reduces it's effective bore to about 3mm.  If you haven't already make sure you fit this into the silicone hose that you've used to replace the original mazda part.  Chances are you wont be able to push it out of the old hose so it will need cutting out.

With a closed breather system if you leave it out the inlet will put too much of a vacuum on the cam cover and it'll burn oil excessively.

I didnt see the reducer when I removed the pipe smokey - is it located towards one of the pipe ends - or in the middle of it somewhere?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the flexible pipe that goes from the cam cover breather to the chromed rigid pipe there is an orrifice that reduces it's effective bore to about 3mm.  If you haven't already make sure you fit this into the silicone hose that you've used to replace the original mazda part.  Chances are you wont be able to push it out of the old hose so it will need cutting out.

With a closed breather system if you leave it out the inlet will put too much of a vacuum on the cam cover and it'll burn oil excessively.

I didnt see the reducer when I removed the pipe smokey - is it located towards one of the pipe ends - or in the middle of it somewhere?

IIRC it's towards the can cover end but pushed in a long way.  The two I've removed have both been white in colour, about 10mm long with something like a 3mm hole down the centre.  If you feed a short length of wire down the bore of the hose you'll soon find where it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the flexible pipe that goes from the cam cover breather to the chromed rigid pipe there is an orrifice that reduces it's effective bore to about 3mm.  If you haven't already make sure you fit this into the silicone hose that you've used to replace the original mazda part.  Chances are you wont be able to push it out of the old hose so it will need cutting out.

With a closed breather system if you leave it out the inlet will put too much of a vacuum on the cam cover and it'll burn oil excessively.

I didnt see the reducer when I removed the pipe smokey - is it located towards one of the pipe ends - or in the middle of it somewhere?

IIRC it's towards the can cover end but pushed in a long way.  The two I've removed have both been white in colour, about 10mm long with something like a 3mm hole down the centre.  If you feed a short length of wire down the bore of the hose you'll soon find where it is.

Found it - great tip thanks.

Mine was fitted in the pipe that runs from the solid chrome pipe to the mazda plastic plenum.

I have removed it and fitted it in the silicone hose on the side of the engine that goes from the cam cover to the solid chrome pipe, at the chrome pipe end - my theory being that it will stay there and not get sucked into the air intake system, that ok do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the flexible pipe that goes from the cam cover breather to the chromed rigid pipe there is an orrifice that reduces it's effective bore to about 3mm.  If you haven't already make sure you fit this into the silicone hose that you've used to replace the original mazda part.  Chances are you wont be able to push it out of the old hose so it will need cutting out.

With a closed breather system if you leave it out the inlet will put too much of a vacuum on the cam cover and it'll burn oil excessively.

I didnt see the reducer when I removed the pipe smokey - is it located towards one of the pipe ends - or in the middle of it somewhere?

IIRC it's towards the can cover end but pushed in a long way.  The two I've removed have both been white in colour, about 10mm long with something like a 3mm hole down the centre.  If you feed a short length of wire down the bore of the hose you'll soon find where it is.

Found it - great tip thanks.

Mine was fitted in the pipe that runs from the solid chrome pipe to the mazda plastic plenum.

I have removed it and fitted it in the silicone hose on the side of the engine that goes from the cam cover to the solid chrome pipe, at the chrome pipe end - my theory being that it will stay there and not get sucked into the air intake system, that ok do you think?

That sounds good :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job you are keeping your eye on me  :t-up:

:D:D I've been there, done that and seen what happens when you leave it out :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dropped off my aluminium bend and stubs this morning to get them welded and picked it back up this afternoon.

Photobucket

I also got the lambda sensor boss welded onto the exhaust downpipe at the same time

Photobucket

Also the propshaft came back from shortening and balancing today.

Photobucket

A little time in the garage tonight and I managed to get the induction system installed, all bar a small bracket I have made up and am waiting for paint to dry to support the cone.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Whilst I had the paint pot and brush out, I gave the prop a clean down, installed it and torqued the bolts, then gave it a coat of paint.

Photobucket

I then fitted the housing removed from the rear of the engine onto the old thermostat housing at the front of the engine, the heater pipe you see will get an aluminium bung and then I will be inserting the fan sensor in the threaded hole.

Photobucket

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you trial fitted the nose cone? Just it looks a little tight to the cone filter from the pic?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you trial fitted the nose cone? Just it looks a little tight to the cone filter from the pic?

No I havent, but it is inside the line of the main chassis so I was assuming that would be ok?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks nice  :love: dont know if you want to do the aloy piping flat black,just

did mine and looks really good!! course is a mater of how you want it,just an idea....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Completed the coolant re-route today, all nicely jubilee clipped.

SAM_0354.jpg

I also completed the fuel lines, so the fuel installation is now done and dusted too.

I have worked out that I can reuse the 1800 thermostat cover removed from the rear of the engine, by fitting it to the front of the engine. This will enable me to refit the cooling fan sensor at the front of the engine. The outlet on the housing will be plugged up.

I have also found a thread reducer that will take the M16 thread in the 1600 thermostat cover now fitted at the rear of the engine to 1/8 NPTF. With this reducer inserted it will mean that I can then screw the VDO coolant temperature sender into it. This is because I cannot get the VDO sensor to fit in the tapped hole in the block where the original Mazda one is fitted.

I also started rigging up the induction system today, and have my positions marked for the tee offs needed for the throttle and crank breather.

SAM_0353.jpg

I have also marked up a position on the exhaust downpipe for the lambda sensor boss. This is all now in a carrier bag ready to take to get welded this week.

Still need to complete the steering column, but there is a bit of painting to do first, as the powder coating has been knocked around quite a bit.

Then I guess it will be time for the dreaded wiring loom  :sheep:

The sign is a good idea  :t-up:

Been on car forums for years and lost track of the amount of times I`ve heard......

"got 20 miles down the road and the gearbox blew up as forgot to put new oil in it"

I always keep a log/checklist and also put a sign on the dash of all critical start up items I have or have not completed when building cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.