KugaWestie Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Not long now Dommo, keep it up mate. Why are the sport turbo seats different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 The bit sticking out of the passenger seat is the knee supports - used for type approving the sport turbo (have to get the dummy in the right position or something). They're like a headrest on the front of the seat. They're quite comfortable once you're in but being 'of an appropriate westfield size' it makes it harder to get in and out. I've taken the drivers one out for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2rrr Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 My wheel sensor has a little yellow LED in the back which lights up when it pulses easy to spot and will tell you whether the sensor is doing its bit. Just turn the wheel and it should light as it comes into proximity with the bolts. Mine needed a little more adjustment towards the bolt head. Noticed it one night with the garage lights off, wheres that light coming from etc etc. Wheel centring has been done numerous tmes, do a search and you will get loads of advice. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 It lights up, or rather did when I was building the car but after further research I think I need to revist it it anyway. I've currently got it looking just behind the face of the prop mounting, where there's four sticking out bits of metal maybe up to 2" long with a gap of around 15mm between them. I'm wondering if I've got the opposite to most of the usual problems and with it being on the gearbox side of things, it's spinning too fast for it to notice when there's a gap. Another point to note is that the digital dash only goes up to 12,000 pulses per mile. With 195/50/15 tyres, four pick up points and a diff ratio of 4.1, I'm at 15,071. There's no bolts used in the drive shafts so expect I'll have to be sticking some magnets on or something. I've read a few threads and my plan of attack for self centreing is a bit of toe-out, greasing the steering column support and some negative camber (it currently looks to be positive). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Careful "tweaking" of front tyre pressures can help too. Two points though if you do use this method, (which can be very effective), do it just before getting to the test centre and correct the pressures just after you leave. (if driving there). And watch that you don't inadvertently raise or lower the nose so much that indicator or headlamp heights become an issue. FWIW, I've always run toe-out on mine for maximum turn in, I was advised by Paul at (the original) Playskool after he'd done the set up, to drop the front pressures down to around 9 or 10 psi for the test. I did, and it worked really well with pretty good self centring. I know others that have achieved this with much higher pressures than normal too. So a bit of experimenting might be called for. Like I say though, do not drive the car far, or at speed with the fronts at IVA pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 IVA this week then Dommo - all set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 It's Wednesday and I'm bricking it Got another MOT this afternoon to go over the emissions, headlight aim and brakes. I've raised the front end, gone for a bit more toe out and still no self centring. I'm still running the same pressures as when the tyres were on the MX5 though so I'm going to drop them to 20 on the way to the MOT, see how it fairs. Other than that last jobs are to protect the nuts/bolts on the front end (waiting for self centring to magically appear in some form), calibrating the dash and swapping over the live/switched live on the fog light relay. Oh and fitting the brake fluid sticker. Can't forget that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 What toe are you running Dom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 No idea, enough so it's visually apparent looking at each wheel individually but not obvious looking from the front. Don't have any gauges to tell unfortunately. However, the tyre pressures are still at what they were on the MX5 so I'm thinking they're a little bit high. Pulled into the petrol station on the way to the MOT but their pump was out of use. Have to set them the noisy way with the compressor! Good news is the brakes and emissions were fine. However I need to find a way of tightening the headlight bolts further - the cover on the FW bodywork completely surrounds it. Westfield say they're one piece and you don't need to cut them in half anymore (cutting them in half gives you a removable section to get at the back of them). That will be my last resort if I can't find a suitable spanner. Other jobs for tonight: Swap rear fog connections at relay end (already done it at switch end to come on with dipped beam, don't want it trying to run a fog light off the dipped beam relay switched feed!) Refit front grill - the cable tie mounts have come away from the bodywork Cover the wishbone area nuts/bolts Stick on the brake fluid sticker Actually that's not as bad as I thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I'll get this in now ahead of your IVA on Wednesday: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I made a headlight spanner out of a box spanner with a slit cut out down one side for the cable to come through. I think I saw it done on 'kevin's westfield build' I've also had the same prob with the front grill, and I've tried tigerseal and then araldite. I've just decided to leave it until the winter to sort unless more come apart and it's loose. Good luck with IVA. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekJ Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Good luck for Wednesday Dommo! It will be a shame when this thread finishes though realy enjoyed reading it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 You can check the toe in/out with 4 axle stands, two bars (across the width positioned front and back) and a ball of fine twine. Then use a steel rule to measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 You are running toe out tho?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Yes, put a metal rule along the tyres and eyeballed the edges. Both wheels pointing slightly away from the car. I'm going to give it a smidge more tomorrow and see what it drives like. After the drop to 20psi. It seems the mounts for the grill have come away because the paint on the inside of the bonnet lifted from the fibreglass. I've restuck them to the fibreglass, fingers crossed. It also seems my old man has unwittingly sacrificed a 7/16 box spanner to become my light tightening tool. Works a treat, thanks Doug! Just the nuts and bolts to cover in the front wishbone area. Did the wipers tonight because I could see me forgetting them. This thread will never end, it'll be upgrades this winter. Or corrections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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