Mooch Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Shame, but the sensible thing to do. We shall all just have to wait.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 It will all be a long forgotton distant memory as soon as you strap on the number plates and hit the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 So... Stoneleigh 2013? Digging around doesn't show much options for getting a new reverse light switch, with just one on ebay. With that being a genuine mazda part I might see if it's cheaper from Mazda first. The easiest way of converting the mk2 speedo sender signal to a square wave pulse like I want is to utilise the convertor inside the mk2 dash. Think I'll be sourcing one of them then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 What are the rules on reversing lights. Are they now mandatory and if so, must they be automatic when selecting reverse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 What are the rules on reversing lights. Are they now mandatory and if so, must they be automatic when selecting reverse? Yes and yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Parcel has arrived this morning. I am now the proud owner of a mk2 instrument cluster and a reverse light switch. The reverse light switch is second hand (guess I should have specified new) so I'll thoroughly test that first. In the meantime, I need to get my head into some wiring diagrams to suss out how to wire up this converter buried within the dash. I've already dug it out. Seems strange not to be doing things last minute. Maybe I'll hold off fitting it all until Tuesday morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Itchy fingers, and sensing this could be tricky, I got right to work. The thought of heading down to the garage on the dreary day didn't really appeal so I made use of the indoor workbench. This also doubles up as an ironing board which means the missus doesn't get angry with me leaving it up. Researching online showed a slightly easier way to achieve what I wanted to. I originally thought I'd have to find out what each pin on the board does and tap into the appropriate ones. However, there seems to be an easier way. The ECU gets a 5v pulse speed signal from the instrument cluster, so I could just tap into that. Apparently this is pin 2L on the instrument cluster. I started tracing the path to see if it when to the board but this got quite tricky towards the middle. Instead, I broke out the voltmeter. With it on continuity mode, I put one end on pin 2L and then tested the connections on the ribbon style cable at the other end. Soon enough, one beeped! My plan therefore is to find out what goes to positive and earth, what connects to the speed sender and just wire those up. The one that goes to 2L will provide my speed signal. The potential hiccup here is I was originally supplying the dash with a 12v pulse and it will now get a 5v pulse. I think it will be ok with that but I'll keep it in mind. I'll also get a different number of pulses per mile but that's fine, that can be configured easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 Not making masses of progress but it should all be back together tomorrow night. The mk2 odometer bit is wired it. I can't tell if it's 100% working though as I can't spin the wheels fast enough. All I can generate is a 0.1v AC signal from the speed sender. The mk2 speedo doesn't start at 10mph though so it makes sense. I started and swiftly abandoned fitting a new reverse light switch. That's a gearbox out job as it's right against the tunnel. Instead I've put wiring in and made a bracket to use a microswitch on the tunnel. Just need to pick one up from Maplin tomorrow. I'm still trying to get the handbrake to not hit the chassis on full extension. The cable is adjusted as tight as it will go but it could still do with being a little tighter. It engages fine and produces enough force to pass the IVA, but you can still pull it further so it hits the bracket it bolts onto. I'm having to resort to filing the lever down to gain some clearance. The whole assembly could probably do with being 1cm further forward but the position is dictated by the position of the brackets on the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Just stick the back end on axle stands, start the engine and let it tickover in a high gear, the wheels will be turning fast enough then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Beat me to it Gary! Chock the front wheels though, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 I'm still trying to get the handbrake to not hit the chassis on full extension. The cable is adjusted as tight as it will go but it could still do with being a little tighter. It engages fine and produces enough force to pass the IVA, but you can still pull it further so it hits the bracket it bolts onto. I'm having to resort to filing the lever down to gain some clearance. The whole assembly could probably do with being 1cm further forward but the position is dictated by the position of the brackets on the chassis. Mine was exactly the same, it passed SVA but i knew there wouldnt be any adjustment to get through the MOT. I cut the cable and fitted an M6 turn buckle to give a greater range of adjustment and also make access easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 That's a neat solution. I wanted to put washers in under the adjuster on the lever, but the adjuster has been tightened a touch too much and has siezed. I left it soaking in WD40 just in case it's still possible. In the mean time I think it's all about gaining as much clearance as possible so I'm filing a small section of weld on the lever down to gain a few mm. I don't think I'll get it enough to stop you hitting the chassis when pulling it from out of the car, but when you're sat in the car you can't get as much force on it so hoping it's enough. I'll also check to see if the pistons can be adjusted slightly. I found some spare on the passenger side. I've got to turn the car around tonight to get on the track rod ends so that seems like a good excuse to test the speedo. I appear to be doing everything last minute again. Ho hum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Good luck! :yes: :yes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 I think I'm roughly where I want to be. Handbrake is impossible to sort without doing something drastic, but I've tightened the tolerances on the rear calipers and it's harder to hit the chassis with the lever now. You can just about do it on full extension. The reverse light is working - it's using a microswitch on the tunnel top that is hit when the gear lever goes into reverse. This then splices back into the rear loom so a pretty neat solution. I've misplaced half of my nut covers for the front wishbone area. Not sure how. I think I've left them in a pocket so I'll go through the wardrobe tomorrow! Otherwise I followed the advice given by the tester and filed down the track rod ends to make a nice smooth radius. I then cut up a nut cover to go over the locking nut. To go a bit further I've also wrapped the extensions in self amalgamating tape which has blunted it nicely. So every point on the retest has been looked at with the only iffy bit being the handbrake, and the nut covers if I can't find them! I don't need to leave until 1:30 tomorrow so there's a bit of spare time after work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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