darve Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 dunno whyI didn't think to measure from the front!! thanks guys, appreciate it I'll check later for you dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamf Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I've got 182mm from the front edge of the ali section back to the scuttle. Out of interest how much does that battery weigh? Just weighed the standard one and it comes in at 12kg It is listed as 15.4 lbs = 6.9kg (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ILK6I/ref=ox_ya_os_product) Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Dave, if you're going screen-less then I'd be fitting the battery in the engine bay to the passenger footwell panel where the washer bottle would normally be fitted. IMO it looks much nicer with a clutter free scuttle area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 On the zetec's it goes in the nose. Apart from less good weight distribution, is there a reason sdv's don't use this empty space? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 On the zetec's it goes in the nose. Apart from less good weight distribution, is there a reason sdv's don't use this empty space? Normally it's occupied by the airbox but that should be a problem on Darve's car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 long time no update! too busy cracking on with the build. im fitting the bodywork and would like to check a couple of things. ive accepted its a compromise between some bits being spit on and others being slightly off. after lots in giggling, fettling, head scratching, bodywork on and off more time than I care to remember I have two bits that aren't as good as id hope. if they're all like that then fine scuttle on drivers side to main tub. dont think anything can be done about this one: bonnet to scuttle on drivers side. for the bonnet to come down, I think the while return edge on the bonnet would need triming. has anyone else had to do this? overall shot for fun due to using the fw front and standard rear, the main tub had to come forward a touch (learnt from dommos journey). its going to be a squeeze to fit the boot box but we'll have to see. id rather the rest of the bodywork looks right if it means ditching the boot box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 I can't see the photos at work but do you have detachable rear arches? This is another problem I've had which I think is due to shifting the tub forwards. Might be worth temporarily fitting those with clamps before fixing the tub just to check. Mine are elongated ever so slightly which doesn't look odd from the side, but I've got a 1mm gap in places between the arch and the tub. I'll have to cover that with arch protectors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 yeah I've got detachable arches. ive got a small gap with the tub that will probably pull if I use a could of m6 metal bolts. ive used number plate fixing bolts so the arches will snap of hopefully if you without taking the body with it! it's has been a compromise with the wheel in the arch as you know cos the body its forward a bit. but I think it's ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 My detachable arches aren't perfect either, and I spent a lot of time trying for a better fit. I did reduce the return on the bonnet to get it to sit on the scuttle better. I put masking tape on the scuttle then pushed down on the bonnet. I could see tears and imprints in the tape where the bonnet was touching. I then rubbed down until it was touching over a bigger area and it matched the scuttle better. I'm no expert though. I found the bodywork terrifying as A) I had no experience with it B) no other cars to compare it to, and C) It's the bit everyone sees! I'm fairly satisfied with mine, although it's not perfect, it's probably only me that notices. Although other owners probably would too, the general public are hopefully just dazzled by the shiney body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 long time no update! too busy cracking on with the build. im fitting the bodywork and would like to check a couple of things. ive accepted its a compromise between some bits being spit on and others being slightly off. after lots in giggling, fettling, head scratching, bodywork on and off more time than I care to remember I have two bits that aren't as good as id hope. if they're all like that then fine scuttle on drivers side to main tub. dont think anything can be done about this one: bonnet to scuttle on drivers side. for the bonnet to come down, I think the while return edge on the bonnet would need triming. has anyone else had to do this? To a certain extent they're all like that, or at least several I've looked at. I was paranoid about mine but then when I looked at others I found they'd had similar problems. A couple of things which I found helped was to not fit the nose central on the front of the chassis (mines slightly skew), this then alters the shape of the tub side and improves the bonnet fit to the scuttle. On the scuttle I removed a bit more material from the bottom flange where this is shaped around the dash hoop so when I fitted the dashboard I could use the dash to pull it in at the bottom so it didn't stick out. For the fit of the arches you may need to fettle the fillet radius at the bottom of the mounting lugs so they mate a bit tighter to close the gap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 My detachable arches aren't perfect either, and I spent a lot of time trying for a better fit. I did reduce the return on the bonnet to get it to sit on the scuttle better. I put masking tape on the scuttle then pushed down on the bonnet. I could see tears and imprints in the tape where the bonnet was touching. I then rubbed down until it was touching over a bigger area and it matched the scuttle better. I'm no expert though. I found the bodywork terrifying as A) I had no experience with it B) no other cars to compare it to, and C) It's the bit everyone sees! I'm fairly satisfied with mine, although it's not perfect, it's probably only me that notices. Although other owners probably would too, the general public are hopefully just dazzled by the shiney body. Yeah I'm not enjoying the bodywork either It's something you want to get right but also never worked with fiberglass before. I'm surprised at how er agressive you can be with it Reassuring to hear your bonnet needed fettling as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 On the scuttle I removed a bit more material from the bottom flange where this is shaped around the dash hoop so when I fitted the dashboard I could use the dash to pull it in at the bottom so it didn't stick out. For the fit of the arches you may need to fettle the fillet radius at the bottom of the mounting lugs so they mate a bit tighter to close the gap. Noted re using the dash to pull the scuttle in slightly I have fettled the mounting lugs and it's actually inbetween the top and lower front lug where I've got a gap. Think I'll use one m6 metal bolt to close the gap. You can make the plastic bolts very tight as the nut just jumps on the thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 Questions on my mind now.......................should I book IVA for the end of May/start of June The things that are going to hold me up: a) waiting for manifold froom WF - so can't get it rolling roaded until I have that b) have the wrong carpet for the tunnel top - the one I have the gaiter holes are already cut and gaiters stiched on. Think I have the standard one for zetec install so won't fit Can you push back the IVA test date after it's been booked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 i did not book my sva till i was competely finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 i did not book my sva till i was competely finished.Likewise, i saved booking mine till everything was done and I just had the final fettling and SVA trim to finish. I only had to wait 4 weeks but they could have done it sooner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.