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Kugawestie's MX5 SDV Build Thread - Now An Upgrade Thread


KugaWestie

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I did change the cam sensor O ring, but I marked it before removal for position and re-aligned it afterwards

I have reset the base idle using the diagnostics, but cannot get it below 1000rpm.

Timing - all set up on the backplate marks as per Rods manual

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It may be idling a bit higher because of the lightened flywheel. Mine typically sits at just below 1k. Are you letting the engine get fully up to temperature before making the adjustment?

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It could also be that the idle air control valve on the bottom of the throttle body is n't operating correctly so the ecu is unable to adjust the idle speed.

Edit i know you enjoy taking things apart so have a read towards the bottom of this :)

http://www.miata.net/garage/isc.html

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It may be idling a bit higher because of the lightened flywheel. Mine typically sits at just below 1k. Are you letting the engine get fully up to temperature before making the adjustment?

I did wonder if itmight idle a bit higher due to the flywheel, but after a fan cycle it is sitting at 1200 rpm

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It could also be that the idle air control valve on the bottom of the throttle body is n't operating correctly so the ecu is unable to adjust the idle speed.

This is next on my list - today when I pulled the electrical connector off it the idle dropped to a nice level

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It could also be that the idle air control valve on the bottom of the throttle body is n't operating correctly so the ecu is unable to adjust the idle speed.

Edit i know you enjoy taking things apart so have a read towards the bottom of this :)

http://www.miata.net/garage/isc.html

Hhhmm, I am getting the correct resistance reading (12-13 ohms) from the Idle Air Control Valve, so I think that it is working correctly.

So, not sure what the problem is now :(

When I sprayed carb cleaner into the control valve, I did it with the engine off. Is it better to do this with the engine running? Is it safe to?

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Hhhmm, I am getting the correct resistance reading (12-13 ohms) from the Idle Air Control Valve, so I think that it is working correctly.

So, not sure what the problem is now :(

Judging by the state of the engine before you bought it i'd strip it to make sure it moves freely.

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Was thinking about swapping it over and then I could strip it down at my leisure ???

Before that though - is it safe to fire carb cleaner in with the engine running?

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Absolutely no idea :) i've never used the stuff

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Read the tin.

I'm sure it'll be fine.

But set up a video recorder a safe distance away just in case :laugh:

(this is a joke I've no idea if it'll be fine or not)

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When I sprayed carb cleaner into the control valve, I did it with the engine off. Is it better to do this with the engine running? Is it safe to?

I personally would not, it is highly flammable/expolsive and in a confined space (such as a closed bobble throtty) it will be contained so a risk of damaging it.

I would clean the throtty bobble with it first, let it dry off (wont take long) and then fire it up.

I assume the purpose is simply to clean your flap :love:

Did you disconnect a clutch switch when dismantling the donor car? Two wires (I believe brown and white) in the ECU loom that connected to a spring plunger switch on the clutch pedal of the original car?

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I dont recall a clutch switch being on the loom. But then again I did not remove the loom from the donor car.

Thing is though, the high idle was not there until I dropped this spare engine in, so I think it must be something on the engine/manifold I have just fitted rather than anything electrical?

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I remember the clutch switch - I cut it off and isolated the wires and that was it. I was told that although it was linked to the ECU it was not required for the Westy and could safely be taken out. I would guess that if everyone else's is running OK without, you can rule this component out.

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and then fire it up.

Shouldn't you retire before lighting blue touchpaper? :)

I assume the purpose is simply to clean your flap

I normally have a shower.

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