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Westfield self build information


craggers

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I have sourced loadsa bits off this site, and have at times been called a 'vulture'. Up to now i have spent around 4k but sold some bits off the donor cars to compensate a little bit, i have most of the big stuff but still have some expense to go i.e wheels and tyres, exhaust system, seats, dashboard and clocks. I am reckoning on spending around 8 - 9k, this is mainly because i believe there are some things not worth the compromise i.e throttle bodies, powder coating of chassis etc.

I would say if you spend 7k you are gonna have to make 1 or 2 sacrifices in reality.

P.S Knowledge and experience of the people on this board is second to none (thanks everyone)

:p:p:p:p???

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I'll have a tenner on that one  :D  :D  :devil:  Your budget was originally 7k its now 7-8K and you ain't got owt yet  :D  ;)  10-12K should get you sorted with a very tidy car  :D
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:D

Wait and see - Will keep you updated on the costing of the build (that when I started tho)

For the odd, I don't know - ask Ladbroke or William Hill  ???

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I can just add my 2p worth to this discussion, having gone down this road over the last year (still not reached the end but am very close to the finish line).

My original budget was about £9k for a "track" SEiW with modern 16v engine. That budget includes about £800 worth of registration fees and taxes (for Sweden), so a realistic build budget just over £8k. For a car with aero-screen, reasonably light wheels and R-tires, no carpet, no extra weight etc.

The only thing left on my list now is the aero-screen. I have now spent £10.4k. This is not including all the small bits and bobs needed for wiring, relays, rubber donuts, etc. There's now about £1k left for registration, rollbar and aero-screen (due to arrive any day).

I have made (or will make) lots and lots of stuff myself with help from seasoned fabricators (good friends) at basically 0 cost:

- complete exhaust manifold

- fuel catch-tank

- rollbar

- electrical system

- propshaft

- seats

- instrumentpanel

I estimate these things to have saved me about £1k

I have been given free of charge (new or reconditioned or used):

- alternator

- engine wiring loom

- lambda sensor

- Airflow sensor

- engine cpu

This has saved me about £500 also

So just to sum up, the total is just around £12k (if I hadn't had such good friends) with another £1k to go.

Things I could have saved on:

- instrumentation £300

- wheels and tires £100

- cooling system £50

- cheaper brakes £150

- not using hydraulic clutch £100

- not choosing ali hubs and uprights at the front £250

...that's about it, i.e. I could have come in ~£1k less without too much trouble. A further £1,5k could probably be saved had I chosen an older engine/trans combo.

So, a good estimate is it ends up around £12-13k whichever way you go, if you want a "modern" drivetrain.

I hope that sheds some light on the topic.  :t-up:

EDIT - maybe I should also add why I went over "budget":

- good deals on second-hand stuff came up and just had to "grab" them, despite being over, e.g. R500 wheels and Mychron3 display

- didn't dare add up all the cost until now ( :bangshead: )

- price of stuff from Westfield was about £1k more than what the Swedish rep had initally told me when I did my initial budget ( :angry:  :bangshead:  :down: )

- I kind of like shiny new aluminium bits (preferably anodised  :p )

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It IS possible to put a car on the road for £7K.

Engine - including all management/fuel system £250 from a scrappie, and bunged straight in.

You don't need a rollbar for SVA.

Lots of other savings are possible too.   The question is, do you want to cut so many corners?

I personally think to get a decent car, you need to spend substantially more, but it CAN be done.

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I think you'd be doing well to hit your budget, but then it depends on how much you are able to fabricate yourself, how much you can scab for very low cost or free, and how much you want to compromise your build in terms of spec.

Face it, all builds are a compromise, otherwise we would all be spending 30k easy!  I don't want to think about how much mine cost - a fair wedge - and I don't care how much it cost when I am out enjoying it  :t-up:

but for SVA, you *must* have injection and a cat exhaust.

not _strictly_ correct Blatman. with a pre-95 engine you have a fairly free reign. with a post-95 engine you must pass stricter emissions limits, but that doesn't mean you have to have injection.

though in the context of the discussion in hand, it is a valid point < removes pedant hat > :)

moomin

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You're right to point it out Moom. I'd forgotten completely........

At last someone agree with me !!  

I'll bet that by the time you finish, you'll be agreeing with us. It's just a matter of perspective. Our is one of experience. Yours is one of belief based on marketing..........  :0:0:D:D:blues::blues:

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true - but still I do appreciate your wisdom and you might be right or not. Only time will tell.

No offence, but I know who's side my money would be on :)

Andy

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Okay, areas that I think can save you money.

1) Propshaft. Scour the back pages of the kit car magazines for prop companies. I used Dunning and Fairbank, made to measure prop for £90. They know their stuff so have a supply of suitabke flanges for sierra diffs and ford type 9 splines.

2) Lobros and rear calipers. I got a rear axle, dismantled, from Andy Hewing - donor spares. Without the diff it cost about £90. Stripped the driveshafts and cleaned the lobros in a component bath. They're as good as new and nicely worn in. The calipers are pretty useless SO use them as an exchange pair for some nice remanufactured units from Brake International at about £50 per caliper.

3) Dash board, Either make your own, get a carbon one from PlaysKool or Fluke Motorsport (around £80) or get a GRP one from PlaysKool and glue some foam padding and viynl covering to it yourself.

4) I had all the ally panels in my kit powder coated black so that I don't bother with carpets. It looks smart and should be hard-wearing. That only cost £70 (cash).

5) I got the dials 2nd hand.

6) Cortina Uprights are about £80 per pair. Get to a shotblast cabinet and you can strip them your self. New bearings are £20 a set, Hammerite spray paint is all that's needed to finish them off.

7) 2nd Hand carbs, £250

8) Polo Rad from GSF Car parts - £40-£50

I'm building a VX Engined SEiW at the mo, originally with a budget of £8000. It's up to about £8750 and I've got about £100 left to spend on the car, and then the £600 of SVA, insurance, tax, registration to get it on the road.

There's a few areas that I could've saved myself money and got the car done for the original £8k budget but ther estill would have been the large wad of cash to get it SVA'd, insured and on the road.

Good Luck.

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cant build for less than 10k.............. ???  My sdv is very close to finished and have just done a tot up on cost for it...... very few corners cut, lots of parts sourced 2nd hand and shopped around for the new parts (except for the bits from westfield) ........   total  -  £6,650  :p

   The only thing I 'aint bugeted for is wet weather gear..... but thats only going to add £500.

  just to let you know its not been left horribly standard.... i have fitted :-

                          17" dotz LeMans alloys........... from ebay

                           twin 40 webers.................... from ebay

                           brand new seats.................. from ebay

                           full VDO gauges (new)........... from lowtension/ebay

                           4 point harnesses................. from ebay

                           westfield steering wheel.........from ebay

                           Golf radiator.........................scrap yard

   coated chassis by westfield, westfield springs and shocks, detachable rear arches, etc etc...........

                   IT CAN BE DONE FOR LESS THAN £8,000....... DONT LISTEN TO THEM  :D:D

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