Blatman Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 So live axle is better than independant? NO. How many race cars have live axles? None. Why? Because it's a compromise. Fully independent is the way to go. There *may* be a slight weight penalty to pay for having an SEi over a live axle, but if you're good enough to be able to tell this from the drivers seat, then give Frank Williams a call........... If they not selling the narrow body kit As has been pointed out, ALL new kits are wide bodied, wether they're SE or SEi......... it's not a good idea to chrome the springs as the coating alters the springs rate. Who told you that? No matter, whoever it was, don't take any cars there to be worked on, and don't buy anything from them........sheesh...... build it on budget of £7,000 look good How good are you with a tool kit? If you are handy with a set of spanners, drills, dremels, jigsaws and the like, and you have easy access to things like a lathe, a pillar drill, and other "specialist" equipment, then building for 7K is do-able. I'd be banking on spending between 10 and 12K myself........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craggers Posted February 23, 2004 Author Share Posted February 23, 2004 How good are you with a tool kit? If you are handy with a set of spanners, drills, dremels, jigsaws and the like, and you have easy access to things like a lathe, a pillar drill, and other "specialist" equipment, then building for 7K is do-able. I'd be banking on spending between 10 and 12K myself........ How it possible that spending on it will reach 10-12k? From to what I've work out that it should only cost me 7-8k to build one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adhawkins Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 When you've been here a while, you'll realise it's not wise to question the word of Blatman. As a clue, look at his number of posts If he says 10-12k, I'd be inclined to believe him. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craggers Posted February 23, 2004 Author Share Posted February 23, 2004 When you've been here a while, you'll realise it's not wise to question the word of Blatman. As a clue, look at his number of posts If he says 10-12k, I'd be inclined to believe him. Andy Yeah true but how it possible for figure to go over 8k ?? What is the most expensive bit you need for the build, i might have missed some out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 How it possible that spending on it will reach 10-12k? From to what I've work out that it should only cost me 7-8k to build one. Detail your workings out, and I'll be happy to add in the "little extras" you haven't even though of, or even know exist yet........ You seem to have glossed over my question on just exactly how handy you are with a tool kit too. If you are pretty handy, you just may do it for 7K, but I doubt it *very* much. If you're tool weilding skills are less than stellar, then you WILL be spending quite a bit of money to have certain things done (and re-done) to get them right......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craggers Posted February 23, 2004 Author Share Posted February 23, 2004 How it possible that spending on it will reach 10-12k? From to what I've work out that it should only cost me 7-8k to build one. Detail your workings out, and I'll be happy to add in the "little extras" you haven't even though of, or even know exist yet........ You seem to have glossed over my question on just exactly how handy you are with a tool kit too. If you are pretty handy, you just may do it for 7K, but I doubt it *very* much. If you're tool weilding skills are less than stellar, then you WILL be spending quite a bit of money to have certain things done (and re-done) to get them right......... Ok here is my list. Kit form (of course), full engine/gearbox/clutches, alloy wheel/tyres/suspension, brakes, 2x seats, dashboard, trim, bit and bob such as speedo/tacho/etc and cabling (Can't remember anymore) BTW - got most of the tool and pretty good with them, my father-in-law is very good at car building (he got sport car) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthurs Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 I bought the SDV for about £8K, all I needed to get was the engine, gearbox, front uprights, brakes, steering column, exhaust manifold, diff and driveshaft. So far I have had to buy the following on top of the £8K. -Alloys and tyres - £1K -Brakes Reconditioned - £300 -Engine rebuild - £1300 -Exhaust Manifold - £250 -Carb kit - £500 -Gear oil - £30 -Tools - £500 I am only about half way through the build so there is bound to be more to be added. Then there is the SVA test, tax, insurance etc... You could only manage to do it with £7K if you have built one before and know where to get all of the cheep parts. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick M Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Kit form (of course), full engine/gearbox/clutches, alloy wheel/tyres/suspension, brakes, 2x seats, dashboard, trim, bit and bob such as speedo/tacho/etc and cabling (Can't remember anymore) Windscreen ? Wipers ? Heater ? or Aeroscreen ? Weather gear (hood or tonneau and side-screens) ? How much have you budgeted for instruments and switch-gear? Lights ? Steering wheel and hub ? Fuel tank ? Exhaust manifold / silencer ? Carbs (plus things like intake manifold and air filters) ? Fuel pressure regulator ? Radiator, expansion tank and coolant plumbing ? Gear lever extension ? And that's just the things I can think of off the top of my head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthurs Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 I don't think anyone is trying to put you off getting one they are just pointing out the mistake everyone else has made and that is underestimate how much it does cost to get one of these on the road. The last think people around here want is for you to get half way through the build and then run out of money to complete it. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick M Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 I don't think anyone is trying to put you off getting one they are just pointing out the mistake everyone else has made and that is underestimate how much it does cost to get one of these on the road. The last think people around here want is for you to get half way through the build and then run out of money to complete it. Dan:) Exactly - there's nothing worse than having a half-finished car in your garage that you can't afford to complete in the time-scale you want to... /voice of experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deller Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 it's not a good idea to chrome the springs as the coating alters the springs rate. Who told you that? No matter, whoever it was, don't take any cars there to be worked on, and don't buy anything from them........sheesh...... Terry Nightingale told me this when I visited him a couple of weeks ago. I bought a windscreen from him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Thank you Darthurs. 11.8K right there......... Craggers. Lets try and make some sense of what you have posted..... full engine/gearbox/clutches A VX engine will almost certainly require a rebuild, and maybe a rebore if it's badly worn. £500-£1000, assuming you can resist the urge to upgrade for more power while you've got it in bits. I mean, you might as well.......... A Zetec would be a bit cheaper, but for my own peace of mind, I'd be doing a complete strip and rebuild of whatever engine I buy, in order to fit new big ends, and some stronger rod bolts. Carbs or injection? Bank on £500 for carbs, but for SVA, you *must* have injection and a cat exhaust. If you don't use the Zetec standard injection, bank on 2K for throttle bodies, and ECU, and all the extra aggro and expense that a set up will cost. A VX will almost certainly require throttle bodies to get past SVA emissions. Then you'll need a fuel pump and a pressure regulator. Another 100-150 quid. Cooling system. Rad and hoses plus jubilee clips, header tank, fan, a heater (a *must* if you are intending on having a windscreen) will rush you between 150 and 300 quid depending on suppliers. Gearbox; They're cheap, so a good one shouldn't cost more than about a oner, and will drop straight in. If you're buying a Vx engine, though, you'll need a different bellhousing. £75 will get you the right bellhousing.......an MT75 WON'T fit a Vx, but you don't want an MT75 anyway...... Clutch will be about a hundred to one fifty, including the release bearing. You'll need a diff. 60-75 for a second hand open Sierra diff. more for a "standard" LSD. You'll be paying 400-600 for an aftermarket ATB LSD, but unless you are a serious track dayer, or sprinter, you won't need one. Wheels and tyres, between £500 and £1000, depending on sizes. Suspension is about 75 quid a corner, assuming you want something fairly standard. Anti roll bars (not necessary for a road car) will be extra. Brakes. Non Cortina calipers will be around 150-250 a side, depending on where you buy. Discs are cheap enough to be ignored......you DO NOT NEED big discs....... Seats. Bank on 400 a pair from Westfield. Less from other suppliers, but not by a massive amount. Dashboard panel will be in the kit. Clocks and senders, around 200 quid. Carpets (I wouldn't) around a hundred. My interior is powder coated. It'll cost about the same for a nice job though. Powder coat won't rot or smell when it gets wet....... Harnesses (OK for SVA, and *much* safer than ordinary seat belts) at about 200 quid a pair. You'll be needing some lights.......150-200 quid, unless you go upmarket.......and some switches, for between 50 and 100 quid Grand total: £6435, assuming you need throttle bodies........... This is all top of the head best guesses for mostly new parts (apart from the engine/box/diff), but I reckon I'm in the ball park.........and there's bound to be more. IIRC, unless you pay extra for it, your chassis and suspension arms will be bare metal. Powder coating them is a *must*, and it adds to the base price of the kit. Not much, mind, but these little things add up quickly....... Oh, and if you want a current reg, then you need to buy ALL NEW parts, so two of the three out of engine, gearbox and diff MUST be new, or be certified to have been reconditioned to as new condition........ I'll take bets on your 7K build claim....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Terry Nightingale told me this when I visited him a couple of weeks ago. I bought a windscreen from him Much as I don't want to contradict advice from an "expert", I'd like to know just how this happens. I agree that it's possible that it may make a small difference, but it wouldn't noticably change the spring rate. Just how tough do you think a few microns of brass/steel/whatever are? Can't see chroming making any odds, to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deller Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 I agree with Blatmans figures. One thing to mention is that the dash is not in the kit so budget for between 200 - 400 for the dash depending whether you go for standard or contoured version. There are so many bit's and pieces that you don't budget for initially. Things like ball joints, rod ends etc. soon start to add up. Other things I can think of are roll bar - 150 propshaft - 200 Wiring Loom- 200 Fuel tank/filler - 250 Driveshafts (lobro joints x 4) 200 engine mods (Zetec) water rail - 150 Alternator and mounting-150 Shortened Sump - 200 I have estimated about 10.5K - 11K for my build and I have managed to obtained quite a lot of stuff secondhand and reconditioned them myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthurs Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Thank you Darthurs. Your welcome Blatman. It is nice to be able to give some useful information now and again instead of just receiving it all the time. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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