Mark (smokey mow) Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I wouldnt be too concerned about road spray, its only aluminium so providing you keep them away from salt, about worst you'll get will be some surface oxidisation. Self adhesive vinyl will give you a very good finish, alternatively go for a carbon scuttle panel it's the only one you actually see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Is it finished yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 am I using the brake pipe clips correctly or should the stand off bit be snapped off. I've snapped 4 clips so far installing the first brake line so not sure they're right. I took a picture of the demo car and they seem shorter. obviously, the hole is too big now cos the shorter be is a smaller diameter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 You need to knock them in. Take a hammer and lightly hit the clip on the top, the shaft will then knock into the top hat base holding it all into the hole in the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 ahhhh yeess that's better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 When in doubt-clout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 indeed Norman So, the rest of the panels other than the exterior ones are now on: next up was the pedal assembly of which I forgot to take a picture! No major drama other than the clutch spacer tube had to be fettled down to fit in between the brackets. for every single bolt/stud in this area i did not use one single size that Westfield states in the manual. Most of the bolts were too short so not enough thread was showing after the lock nut. The brake pedal bolt they stated didn't exist so I've used one 5mm longer but does seem about right. The studs they stated also didn't exist but longer ones in the pack of bits also seemed about right. I think I'm taking the attitude of using whatever fits best out of the packs of stuff I have and then sort out any shortages later. I haven't fitted the brake master cylinder as that was one of the shortages in the kit Next up was the fuel lines. I've only run two as I'm not going to use the carbon canister from the Mx5. Good job as this happened on the first try: So what do you think of my fuel lines? Need to cut down the bots I used for the p clips on the footwell area. Dome headed bolts with threadlock and two nuts. Hopefully won't come undone! I then started on the brake lines but have only done one so far: This is the front left from the T piece. Trickey to get right. Unfortunately, I'm missing the brake line that goes from the MC to the front T piece will get onto westfield tomorrow. Should there be a copper washer on the joints between the end of the brake lines and T pieces/flexible hoses?? doesn't seem to be any in the kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 There should be copper washers on the ends of the flexi pipes. Fuel pipes are a darn sight tidier than mine were! The rears will have to follow the chassis more as the diff will pop out in that hole. I've got both of mine going down the drivers side - can't remember where the fuel return is to say if it would be better to follow suit or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2rrr Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Yep, copper washers on the caliper end and compression fitting to the hard pipe. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 You might want to seal up your lowered floors in between the welds. I've been told they can leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 There should be copper washers on the ends of the flexi pipes. Fuel pipes are a darn sight tidier than mine were! The rears will have to follow the chassis more as the diff will pop out in that hole. I've got both of mine going down the drivers side - can't remember where the fuel return is to say if it would be better to follow suit or not. Doesn't look too bad re intruding into the space - might be the picture. Think I'll leave until I drop the diff in and also look at the tank. Should have done that first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Yep, copper washers on the caliper end and compression fitting to the hard pipe. Bob Cool thanks - is it normal to have a bit of a gap between the nut head on the hard line and the T-piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 You might want to seal up your lowered floors in between the welds. I've been told they can leak. Added to the list silicone or something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Dave - why have you bought the fuel lines up in the engine bay towards the outside of the car? It gets busy over there by the time the column is through as well as the loom coming through from the scuttle Build manual shows them close to the Clutch M/C tunnel side of of the m/c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 I came over that side because I read something about slave cyclinder clearances. There should be plenty of space for the steering column and the wiring comes up out of the engine bay through the scuttle to the left of the steering column I think? The flexible fuel lines can connect up and run along the top rail and jump accross to the fuel rail. Hopefully it'll work as I don't want to have to run those pipes again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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