KugaWestie Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Rods Manual still looks in Pristine condition Dave, that will soon change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 OK guys - some actual build photo's for you Went up to the factory on Thursday to pick up the kit - few bits are missing to be forwarded onto me in due course I put in all in the garage as it was 7pm by the time we got back - you then couldn't walk into the garage The bodywork and some other bulky bits have been stored in the erm dining room - that took some negotiating with SWMBO lol The garage then looked reasonably tidy again (for now) I felt it was obligatory to actually do something now I have the kit so started on the paneling. First up was the passenger tunnel The bottom edge here needed to be trimmed as it hung below the frame The seat mounting point holes were also not quite right to they had to be fettled. Still need to silicone the gap around the mount. Once riveted on, I decided it was a good idea to run a bead of silicone on all the inside edges - now I have to do that to all the panels to keep myself happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 It was getting late so decided not to do the other side but wanted to do more The two bulkhead panels seemed a good idea Now a question: what are these for? More paneling to be done today so some more pictures to come. Bernie - if you want to come have a nose, just give me a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 the top 4 are for clsoing the gap between the chassis and the body to stop crud being thrown up from the wheels into the space between the two. The bottom pannel looks like a footwell top panel for lefthand drive cars. Good to see some progress at last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 It's nice to see that westfield appear to have listerned to some of the past comments from us about the engine mount alignment and are now slotting the plates on the chassis. Hopefully this means you won't need to redrill them in the right place as many of us have had to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I wonder how many Caterham owners, who think they're master engineers because they assembled their kits are aware how much work there is in building a Westfield. I've assembled a Caterham kit over a weekend (not mine). However this complete build will take a lot longer than that. Just an observation but would it help to lay out the fuel & brake pipes and the loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 It's easier to fit the panels and then look at pipes and loom. Rear loom can be done after panelling but the front loom needs to have the scuttle fitted roughly as there are some bulkhead grommets that need drilling through the scuttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2rrr Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 There are some advantages leaving the tunnelsides off until the pipes and loom etc etc is in, my mate did that and it proved better. I followed the manual (guide) and struggled a bit with needing rubber arms etc but still managed witha few scrapes and grazes. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Good to see you underway, keep on riveting for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 It's also worthwhile actually putting a bead of silicone or polyurethane adhesive/sealer on before fitting the aluminium panels that way you seal the actual joint, rather than just the edge of the joint. Well done, though, looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 is that larger "unknown" plate the battery tray for the front of the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I presume the SDV is much the same as my kit, in which case dont rivet the edge of the scuttle pannel next to the driver's footwell. When you fit the pedal cover it will clamp this edge. Also don't rivet the front edge of the plate right at front of the chassis (that the battery sits on) as when you fit the bonnet hinge it will clamp it. Enjoy the drilling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkFRST Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Before you fit the other inside tunnel panel, its easier if you drill the loom clip bases along the tunnel or you have to be careful not to damage the panel with the drill chuck. On the outside edge of the floor panels, use countersunk rivets as it will mean the under edge of the side panels doesnt sit on just rivet heads. Where in Essex are you from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Sorry chaps, I did say "lay" the pipes and loom. I thought that some would go through the 2 bulkhead panels (front and rear) but I thought it would be easier to drill the chassis for the retaining clips before all the panels were on. I have a friend who bought a BEC part built kit which had all the panels on but no pipes fitted. It took him ages to get the pipes in properly. (he's a qualified mechanic with his own bodyshop like SteveD) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 It's easier to fit the panels and then look at pipes and loom. Rear loom can be done after panelling but the front loom needs to have the scuttle fitted roughly as there are some bulkhead grommets that need drilling through the scuttle. TBH if i was building mine again i'd have run the loom through the top corners of the footwell panel rather than where westfield suggest through the scuttle. It's a real PITA when working on the car not being able to take the scuttle off because of the loom going through it. Plus it would make for a more tidy engine bay as then all the wiring is hidden low down in the car below the chassis rails rather than on full show above them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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