Kugawestie's MX5 SDV Build Thread - Now An Upgrade Thread

[Mark (smokey mow)]

Mike, it's the dim/dip resistor and was only fitted in certain markets.

To quote Rod's:

Cars produced for the UK market are equipted with a dim/dip system. This is designed to prevent the car being driven at night with parking lights only. If the parking lights are left on, and the car is subsequently driven away, the dim-dip system automatically turns on the headlight low beams at reduced power.

As the others have already said, unplug it, check everything still works ok, and if it does then chuck it away

[KugaWestie]

Mike, it's the dim/dip resistor and was only fitted in certain markets.

To quote Rod's:

Cars produced for the UK market are equipted with a dim/dip system. This is designed to prevent the car being driven at night with parking lights only. If the parking lights are left on, and the car is subsequently driven away, the dim-dip system automatically turns on the headlight low beams at reduced power.

As the others have already said, unplug it, check everything still works ok, and if it does then chuck it away

Thats why I did not recognise it then, mines a Eunos donor

[KugaWestie]

No photos tonight, but I did manage a time consuming job of fixing the nosecone, using an 8mm bolt and repair washer through the bottom.

The sides were fixed using smokey's patented Dzus fastener arrangement - Mark they work really well, great tip, thanks

Started to look at lighting connections - whats the general consensus - use waterproof connectors?

[Mooch]

You'll be taking the nose off at regular intervals so IMO It's worth getting the waterproof connectors as, apart from the obvious reasons of keeping the connections in good order it's so much easier to disconnect. On Smokey's advice I went for this option and I bought mine from CBS. They are not cheap (basic 2 pin is £4 plus vat up to 6 pin at £7.20 plus vat) but they are good.

I'm about to re-do all of mine over the next week or so because I didn't have the right crimping tool for the connectors and did it all with needle nose pliers. It was a mistake, really, as the connectors really need to be firmly attached - especially the earth - and that's not easy without a proper criimper for this sort of connector. I've now borrowed the right tool from a fellow local Westy owner and CBS are tracking down some new male and female pins for me as they are not normally supplied separately.

The main beam wire is (red/white IIRC) also larger than the rest and is too big to fit easily into the connectors, but I'm going to add an extension piece to reduce the size of this wire so it fits a bit better into the connector.

[KugaWestie]

You'll be taking the nose off at regular intervals so IMO It's worth getting the waterproof connectors as, apart from the obvious reasons of keeping the connections in good order it's so much easier to disconnect. On Smokey's advice I went for this option and I bought mine from CBS. They are not cheap (basic 2 pin is £4 plus vat up to 6 pin at £7.20 plus vat) but they are good.

I'm about to re-do all of mine over the next week or so because I didn't have the right crimping tool for the connectors and did it all with needle nose pliers. It was a mistake, really, as the connectors really need to be firmly attached - especially the earth - and that's not easy without a proper criimper for this sort of connector. I've now borrowed the right tool from a fellow local Westy owner and CBS are tracking down some new male and female pins for me as they are not normally supplied separately.

The main beam wire is (red/white IIRC) also larger than the rest and is too big to fit easily into the connectors, but I'm going to add an extension piece to reduce the size of this wire so it fits a bit better into the connector.

Thanks - I ordered some last night

[KugaWestie]

I needed some big headed pop rivets for fixing under the body, and these arrived today in the post.

I decided to make up two small plates to spread the load when fixing the rear of the tub underneath, as it appears to have sagged a bit. It has been clamped up for 48 hours which has helped to pull it up a bit. So this is now fixed.

I had also picked up a 50mm exhaust clamp yesterday, so I decided to drill the hole through for the silencer mounting bracket. I have got the exhaust laid on temporary at present. I need to fit the downpipe/manifold gasket and then get the final position sorted.

I am assuming that there is a sleeve to go over the silencer mounting bracket bolt to square the bracket up vertically and also protect the tub?

[Mark (smokey mow)]

I am assuming that there is a sleeve to go over the silencer mounting bracket bolt to square the bracket up vertically and also protect the tub?

IIRC it's exactly the same part as used to raise the harness eye bolts.

[KugaWestie]

IIRC it's exactly the same part as used to raise the harness eye bolts.

Thanks - I think I have found it in my box of bits, if it is not the exact one it must be very close, as it looks about right. Is there a rubber gromet anywhere on the fixing bolt/bracket? Or is it just bolt through the bracket and sleeve into the chassis?

[Mark (smokey mow)]

Bolt - through hole in bracket - sleeve around bolt - through clearance hole in tub - tightened into boss on chassis.

Your picture looks about right, no grommets or anything else needed apart from the sleeve.

[KugaWestie]

Bolt - through hole in bracket - sleeve around bolt - through clearance hole in tub - tightened into boss on chassis.

Your picture looks about right, no grommets or anything else needed apart from the sleeve.

Good

I am going to use some loctite copper sealant on the manifold/downpipe junction - is it good practice to do this on the two silencer joins - or just clamp them up?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Where bolts and surfaces have to be take apart, copperslip or similar is your friend! With the caveat, that you'd normally also have some locking arrangement for either the nut or the lot head! (this mighbe a Nylock style nut with the nylon insert, a spring washer, or one with teeth, or a conical nut or bolt fitting into a matching taper.

Otherwise if there's no locking mechanism, you may find you need to use an adhesive thread lock. Obviously, in theis case, don't copperslip the threads. (though might still be appropriate to dothe other mating surfaces)

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Silencer joins themselves are sometimes left clear or you can get special sealing pastes.

Be EXTREMELY careful if using ordinary or high temperature silicone and you have a Lambda sensor. The fumes given off as it cures can kill the delicate Lambda cell. There are exhaust friendly versions of silicone available!

[KugaWestie]

Thanks Dave

I fitted the exhaust tonight, after digging out the spacer yesterday

I still need to wire up the lambda sensor

[KugaWestie]

Had a few hours in the garage today.

Firstly, I fixed the bottom of the tub down each side.

Then I made up a new top plate for the tunnel, and fitted this with some self tappers.

I also made up a small plate to cover the holes in the panel behind the seats where the Mazda seatbelts come through, as I am using 4 point harnesses.

Then I decided to get the seats, frames and runners out. After lots of offering into position, I finally fitted the seats to the frames and put the runners on loose. The driving position is very nice, and the seats are comfortable, so all good!

[KugaWestie]

I tackled the fuel filler cap tonight - why do some jobs take ages when you think they wont?

Anyway, marked it all out

Then put a cable restraint onto the filler cap to satisfy Mr IVA - a piece of bike brake cable and a karting cable clamp.

Then drilled the hole, drilled the fixing holes and fitted it all - a satisfying job