Mark (smokey mow) Posted December 15, 2011 Author Share Posted December 15, 2011 An artist of some description, just what type - paint or alcohol Probably both, but hopefully not at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 An artist of some description, just what type - paint or alcohol Probably both, but hopefully not at the same time Yes, you could either end up with a rusty chassis, or cast iron drinking ability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 A short update for this new year When I last posted I'd just got the chassis back from having the welding and tunnel mods completed. The 2 weekends in the run-up to Christmas were spent stripping all the old paint, silicone oil and grime from the tubes in readyness for painting. That turned into a crap job that I would not wish upon anyone. The amount of dust created from using wire a cup brush in the angle grinder laid a thick film of dust over everything and every surface in the garage, it's the most hoovering I've had to do in a long time Worst though is the dust that covers yourself, I was certainly greatful of wearing goggles and mask as everything else was just black With Chistmas obligations out of the way the chassis was degreased and prepped ready for paint. I thought it might be a good idea to do a spot more welding to plug a couple of old rivet holes on the transmission tunnel. To accomodate the width of the drivers seat the tunnel is going to need to be panelled on the prop side (I'm not looking forward to that ) so there was a few rivet holes that would now otherwise be visible. As I now seem to be getting the hang of welding the opportuinity was also taken to add a rear towing eye for those uplanned excursions into the kitty litter. Prep completed, next up came the painting. Thanks to the boardroom I'd established 6 small tins would be enough to paint the chassis and yes is was. Even though ulimately the chassis will be black, I opted to use grey fro the base coats to be sure that I was getting even coverage of coats. As I'd brush applied the Por15 I then lightly sanded to remove any runs and drips in the paint and blew over a grey primer to take the Black top coat. In the end to get a finish I was happy with it took 3 coats of Halfords finest satin black, but I'm pleased with the way it's turned out. Next task now is to get the back axle back on again and then I can think about fitting the new floor panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Better than factory mate, lovely job, well done! God help anyone who shunts you on the track after all that work, they'll need their spine and their chassis straightening! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Looking very good Mark, nice job you have made of that painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks Chaps Today I couldn't resist the urge to bolt togeather a few bits, plus it would give me a bit more floor space in the shed and garage again First up was to drop the back axle in so I could wheel it around easier and then on went the roll bar. Having fitted the roll bar I then took it back off again as I realised I wouldn't be able to wind in the harness eye bolts on the passenger side I'd also forgotten to get any spacers for the eyebolts. A quick rumage through the scrap metal bin I found a short length of thick walled tube that was perfect for the job once cut down to size Next on to the steering rack and column, all just loosely fitted at the moment so I can work out where to drill for the rivet nuts and spacer brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 nice work their fella was the por15 easy to paint with the brush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 nice work their fella was the por15 easy to paint with the brush? Cheers Cleggy Yes it's as easy to apply as any other similar paint (smoothrite etc) and it goes off pretty quick, so the small tins are a good idea. My only real issue was with drips and runs on the tubes becuase of the speed I was having to put in on before it dried but if you're thinking for on the Spyder floorplans it'll be much easier. I'd always planned to top coat over it as POR15 isn't UV stable so it wasn't too much hardship to lightly sand out any runs and brush marks that I'd got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 That steering column looks really long with only two sections! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooch Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 One question springs to mind with these rebuilds - I seek knowledge from the Guru Smokey...ommmmmm! ....when you've taken the old panels off and welded up the holes how do you make sure you don't end up with hundreds of drilled out rivet shanks rattling around inside the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 There seem to be two approaches; drill a large enough hole somewhere at one end of each tube for them to come out of and either use an airline from the other end and blow them through, or maybe a second larger hole and use something as a giant pipe cleaner to push them out! Or, the other popular approach is to just inject each tube with Waxoil or similar which will trap them and then set them in place so they don't rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 One question springs to mind with these rebuilds - I seek knowledge from the Guru Smokey...ommmmmm! ....when you've taken the old panels off and welded up the holes how do you make sure you don't end up with hundreds of drilled out rivet shanks rattling around inside the chassis? Most of mine fell out when I replaced all the tunnel and half the front end. The side panels were all fixed on with self tappers so nothing to worry about there and what were left are in the back panel and they're free to rattle around at their leisure. From experience with the other car and having replaced a couple of panels I can say that I can't hear them over the wind and exhaust noise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooch Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 One question springs to mind with these rebuilds - I seek knowledge from the Guru Smokey...ommmmmm! ....when you've taken the old panels off and welded up the holes how do you make sure you don't end up with hundreds of drilled out rivet shanks rattling around inside the chassis? Most of mine fell out when I replaced all the tunnel and half the front end. The side panels were all fixed on with self tappers so nothing to worry about there and what were left are in the back panel and they're free to rattle around at their leisure. From experience with the other car and having replaced a couple of panels I can say that I can't hear them over the wind and exhaust noise That answers the question, thanks. Must admit, now I've done a few miles in a Westy I can't help but agree - you wouldn't hear a thing on the road/track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Another day in the garage and more progress. Todays job, remaking the aluminium panels. Most of the original panels were either pretty ropey or had been butchered by me when they were removed so it turned into quite a time consuming job with nothing I could easily use as a pattern to remake them. The shoulder and rear tunnel panels proved most difficult due to the multitude of angles and cuts to clear other tubes, but now just about all of them are cut with the exception of the forward tunnel panels which I'm going to leave the fitting of until the engine is in. Obviously everything still needs riveting in place. Next task is to flip the chassis on it's side so I can fit the floor panels 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Nice shiny panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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