Thrustyjust Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I cant stand Plasticote for the nozzle covering my fingers in paint. Will get one of those for next time round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 1 hour ago, Thrustyjust said: I cant stand Plasticote for the nozzle covering my fingers in paint. Will get one of those for next time round. They are well worth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 I got the chassis off the build trolley and onto its side tonight ready to spray the underside with a final coat. Then it will be brake and fuel lines time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howsafe Workwear and Safety Equipment Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Spot on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 Parting with the best part of £250 for a couple of roll hoops did not really appeal to me, so I decided to take a punt on a pair of these I picked up a pair of roll hoops from an Audi TT for £40. I think they will be alright and do the job. They just need a bit of tlc and a polish up, and I need to weld some more mounting tubes onto the chassis to slide them into Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 I sprayed the underside of the chassis tonight, so once it has dried I can think about fuel and brake lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 I also decided to have a look at the front hubs to start re-assembling them. Firstly I fitted the new inner and outer bearing races Followed by the bearings and lots of grease That's the first one back together, it just needs setting for end float and the cap putting on over the hub nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrustyjust Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Looking good Gary. Its a good buzz starting to fit bits on the chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 Final job for the night was to fit a new breather tube to the diff as the existing one had been snapped off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 I have fitted the first thing to the chassis this morning, fuel lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Last night I started looking at the brake master cylinder and servo. This is from an mx5. The mounting bolts were at different centres to the ones pre drilled in the chassis. So I made a template, redrilled the chassis and then welded up the old holes and sprayed in the bare metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Clutch master cylinder has been fitted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Brake servo/master cylinder also fitted On the following photo you can see that the pipes come out of the master cylinder then loop underneath and back up into a proportioning valve which has two outlets This is a photo of the proportioning valve showing the pipes coming into the bottom of it, and then I will be taking brake lines off into the car from the top of it. I think the front brake line feed is the outlet marked "F" which is furthest from the bulkhead. Would you agree? I am struggling to establish this from google! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL290005 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Gary looking good and yes I agree with the F being the front based on the info I found on the net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Taylor Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Hi Gary great work and the bias valves is correct the F top and bottom I used ( on the last 7) for split fronts and the top rear for the rear line with a hydraulic switch in the line, bottom rear for the fluid in. in hindsight I could have run the front top to a T for the fronts and put the hydraulic switch in the front bottom ( no trapped air bubble with it pointing up) loving the build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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