Jump to content

corsechris

WSCC Member
  • Content Count

    2,443
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

corsechris last won the day on April 16

corsechris had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

680 Brilliant

About corsechris

  • Rank
    Advanced Motorist

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    '91 SEiW, Triggers Broom edition.
  • My Location
    Evesham(ish)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I think you are probably best waiting to speak direct with Brise TBH. I thought I was helping when I gave details of my starter to someone here recently but it turned out very unhelpful in the end due to component variations. Unless you can be 100% certain everyone is on the exact same page about all the parts involved, it’s too easy to give or get bad advice, even with the best intentions.
  2. The park switch is built into the nylon connector housing, hence only 3 visible wires. What sometimes happens is that the switch/connector block unit can come a bit loose form the wiper gearbox body so the park switch doesn't get adequately pushed in to activate when the cam comes round inside. See if you can press that nylon lump closer to the metal. That said, it does look pretty snug on that first picture.
  3. Thanks Adge. I was really struggling with visualising the required cutout for some reason. I'm normally OK at that, but this time it just wasn't happening. I confess there's a good chance this thing will end up littered with 3D printing solutions I've already identified some more bits I ned to print for protecting edges and I need something to mount the main lighting switch, which is a really awkward shape that needs to fit into an even more awkward space. Some weird and whacky 3D printed 'thing' will likely be the best solution. I think I'm slowly coming to some conclusions on the edges of the scuttle. Rear edge will overlap the 'dash' by 'an amount' and I'll soften the edge either by forming it or more likely welding on some rod or tube of suitable diameter. It'll probably only be a small overhang so I might even get away with a 'blunted' edge. Could also consider some stick-on edging if I can find something suitable. Front edge where it'll meet the bonnet I'm leaning towards having it protrude beyond the front face of the scuttle by a very small amount, round it downward/inward on a tight radius then have an L section attached to the front face fixings to give the bonnet something to rest against. I think the next step is to test those ideas on small pieces and see what they look like before committing to the full size part. Likely means yet another order from Metals4U as well.
  4. So, not an awful lot been going on with the build of late bar some tidying of wires at the front really. All the wiring other than final connection to the rear lights (not yet fitted) has now been done and tested. Found one small SNAFU at the front, I'd swapped the left & right indicator feeds when condensing connectors a long time back. Easily fixed. I had an abortive stab at the scuttle top but just couldn't get my head round the shape of the cutout needed to clear the A pillar where it passes through the 'shoulder' of the scuttle. Made lots of card scraps but not much else. Thankfully, another builder of the car has completely modelled it in CAD, and he was kind enough to plot out the intersection profile for me into a PDF. Very happy with the results of his efforts Just need to finish turning this into a template then making it in metal. I'll have a similar challenge at the back of the car where the C pillar intersects the top/side curve of the panel. Hopefully I can use the profile from the front to get me started, but I know it won't be correct as it is. Good job I bought lots of card for CAD use. Before I can finalise this part though, I need to decide what to do at the front and back edges of the scuttle. Do I have an overlap. If so, front, back or both, if yes, how large. If yes, how do I trim it to look OK and satisfy the radius requirements. At the front edge, I need to consider how it matches up with the 'bonnet' too. Most of the answers I am coming up with seem to require some skills and/or equipment I don't possess. To further complicate things, I need to be able to remove the front face of the scuttle and the 'dash' which means being careful about any material overlaps I might build in. I don't really want to resort to just sticking some plastic P profile in the joint, but it might end up at that. If you've been following the 3D printing thread in Tech Talk, you've probably seen I've not been alone in spending some of my time messing with that. The suspension bracket covers came out pretty well in the end. It's a two-piece part, held in place by slight interference with the bolthead & nut, and where the two sides meet at the very thin section (bottom of the picture) there is a pin made from a piece of filament to keep it aligned and snug (thanks for that tip @nice_guy) The two parts were printed in different materials and different orientations for testing - I'll decide which is best later. I also have a more open design that just covers the edges of the square tubes and uses ordinary separate nut covers to, well, cover the nuts, but it doesn't really have anything holding it firmly in place so tends to rattle about a bit. It can't come off as it's trapped in place, but it isn't ideal, so I'll probably go with this much more bulky design. Hopefully the IVA man will appreciate the effort. I might have got away with the brackets un-protected as I did blunt the cut edges a bit, with just nut covers on the bolt, but I don't want to risk it for the sake of a couple of quid of printing filament. And I needed to do something about an inlet for the air filter box. The donor car was missing the OEM bit, but it was a badly formed flimsy plastic thing of the wrong shape for this car anyway, so no great loss. I designed a two-part replacement which came out nicely (about 20 hours on the printer in total) and fits a treat. Only thing it could do with if I ever have to print another would be some sort of grip/lugs on the inner collar so it can be gripped for tightening. As it is, it's a bit tricky but not worth a reprint just for that I don't think. In situ. This is the cold area of the engine bay in front of/to the left of the gearbox, so hopefully the PLA plastic I used will be OK with the environment here. There will be a fresh air inlet in the side panel of the car here too. For orientation, this is looking from the left side of the car, left rear tyre just visible on the bottom right hand corner of the frame.
  5. Probably just clutching at straws, but the soldering doesn’t look well flowed to me. Might be worth a quick re-flow before trying anything else? The shorted leg looks deliberate to me. It’d be a pretty unlikely scenario that resulted in what you see there IMO. The solder is still nice and shiny and even has traces of flux on it the look, not likely if it’s been cooking for a period of time., it would be grey and dull.
  6. Luckily, I’ve yet to suffer many adhesion problems but it’s early days my machine came with a clip on flexible build surface and I can imagine a fixed one being a PITA The only ball of spaghetti I’ve made so far was my first use of PETG on glass. Didn’t stick all that well and the part came loose about half way through. PLA on glass is superb though, sticks great during print but once cooled, cracks itself off the surface.
  7. @TableLeg ‘s print does seem very ‘patchy’ doesn’t it. Some good bits on the perimeters so maybe just infill speeds I suppose? Or a weirdly distorted bed surface?? Or a bad reel of filament???
  8. I still owe you a favour for the help you gave me with the rear disc conversion I did way back. Shout if you need anything up to 220mm square by 250mm tall printing
  9. I had a long conversation with the chaps at Procomp on this topic. Apparently the early cars were built with decent quality steel, typically at the high end of tolerances too, so tended to be slightly thicker. Later cars, sadly, often fabricated from cheap Chinese steel very much at the absolute bottom of tolerances and quality limits. Early chassis' tend to be sought after by the racing types I hear... Good to see the progress.
  10. Printed threads at large scale! Makes me wonder just how big it'll go.... I went with 50% cubic infill on both parts. Probably overkill TBH. The male thread on the main tube.... The female thread on the collar.... And the two parts partially assembled. I was fully expecting the threads to be graunchy but they really aren't.
  11. @TableLeg I’ve just had a closer look at those pictures you posted with the underextrusion issue. There are some pretty large areas where it seems to have completely missed aren’t there. Curious....trying to think what could have changed beyond just the speed. 60mm/s doesn’t sound too fast at all really, it should cope with that fine, all being well. Are both ends of the Bowden tube between extruded and hot end properly tight and fully snugged home? A common issue seems to be this tube getting loose resulting in lost motion and problems with underextrusion. My machine quite quickly displayed this at the extruder end so I printed a ‘thing’ I found in the form of a C clip that helps lock the pipe better. Hot end seems OK at the moment but I have printed a replacement fitting that is supposed to be good, just waiting for some new PTFE tube to arrive so I can fit it, I’ll link the thing later. Longer term I’ve ordered an all-metal hot end that will hopefully fix this for good as well as a low me to print at higher temperatures without risking burning PTFE fumes. ETA: Replacement coupling for the hot end..end. Needs an extra bit of PTFE tube ideally, although you could get away with cutting the short piece needed off the existing tube. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3348742 The main page has a link to the YouTube vid as well. Clips for keeping the push fit fittings tight - mixed results with these TBH, there are 3 thicknesses for each size of fitting, but the larger sized fitting clips for the hot end are fragile, particularly the thin one. Worked well for me at the extruder end though. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683 ..and a final thought or two, is the hob gear on the extruder clean? If you get any slippage, the teeth fill up with filament and reduce grip. Also, might be worth checking the extruder calibration too. I won't presume to explain it - loads of sources on the topic do a far better job than I ever could. This one seems well written. https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/ Good luck and keep us posted
  12. That’s an interesting shape on that shroud! I'm hoping the inlet pipe will be OK in PLA given the location. It’ll be at the front left of the engine bay right next to a large air inlet and as far away from hot bits as it’s possible to be. Worst case and I just re-print in PETG but I think it’ll be fine. The threads are trivial to do in Fusion from the user perspective. Must be some fancy code behind it all of course, but it makes a good guess at the thread size based on hole or spigot and from there it’s simple to adjust if required. It offers about half a dozen thread standards and no doubt more can be added. My first attempt at the small threaded collar I did with the default M85 x 6 but it was way too coarse. I could have gone down to M85 x 1.5 but thought that might be getting a bit silly. A 3mm pitch seems pretty much ideal for this part. i had some failures with the collar at first. Lots of layer shifting on the Y axis. This was before I’d fitted the Trinamic drivers and I suspect it was due to not enough stepper drive current. Got round it by slowing the speeds right down. The main pipe was the first decent print after I fitted the new drivers and it didn’t skip a beat, even with some fast moves in there. I’m using TMC2130 drivers in SPI mode and have enabled “hybrid” movement so it switches from the super quiet “stealthchop” to a somewhat louder but more powerful mode above a defined speed. I’ve set the threshold at 100mm/s which seems to be working well.
  13. I think Cura estimated about 10 hours for the print. No idea why the estimates are so far out TBH, but I usually multiply them by 1.5 I didn't think the supports were too bad actually. I had to put some on the lower rebate as it was a pure horizontal edge with no transition, and also at the very top where it went down for a bit before curving back up. Nothing internally though. I was really impressed with how cleanly they came off, particularly the bottom 'ring'. Squashed it with my hands a bit and it just fell off in one piece. The tall narrow support snapped off easily too. I'll post a pic when it's fitted. Filament was just cheap PLA https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BZ5ND8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't think I'll bother re-doing this one in PETG somehow! For anyone using Cura, I'd reccomend trying the profiles available here: https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html I've found his videos pretty handy too. https://www.youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics/videos some great tips on getting the best out of Cura plus loads of other stuff too.
  14. Have to say I really like this gadget
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.