Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 15 minutes ago, Brewster said: I haven't been brave enough to press any of the four buttons to the right of the dash yet. There's no labels on them and I was worried one might be a self destruct or ejector seat 😄 Which one is the arrow button?... Sorry, it's normally the bottom one of the four. See attached- westfield-dash-instruction-manual-v32.pdf You may wish to enable the trip odometer and assign a button to it too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si.Dalziel Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Welcome! I can recommend @Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO’s Dash 2 file as I’m running his with just one tweak for the oil temp sender. Water temp wise mine runs at 90-95 with the fan engaging at 95 so it sounds like your cal need a tweak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigHew Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 There sre a few decent twesks you can do to your Dash2, Bagpuss is the go-to guru. I added an oil temp and moved oil pressure in place of the fuel section of the display. I just watch mileage for fuel and have a low alarm set at 1 gallon as Ian suggested Early days for you tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewster Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 Thanks guys. All good tips and I'll check my dash firmware soon. I've managed to speak to the ECU now with the file from Omex. When I was on the phone he also mentioned that they would updating some of the hardware on my particular model due to a cutting out issue and now I'm thinking this might be the root of it. Took the car for a quick spin and maybe I'm being a bit harsh on it. I was booked in at a local mapping place on Monday but given the ECU is locked out I called in to cancel. They said they'd be happy to do a power run and check the lambda throughout the rev range which, if the headline figures and fuelling are good, will make me feel happier about taking it to the trackday before shipping off the ECU to Omex to get it fettled. I can then get the car bespoke mapped once it's back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hunter - Club Secretary Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Welcome to the Red Toybox S2000 club! I've also had a few niggles with mine in the 6 months I've owned it but that's just part of the Westfield experience for me. The S2000 did feel almost boringly competent when I first drove it compared to my old Blacktop on twin 45's... My old car had a useable rev range of 3000-6000. The S2000 will pull from 1000 in most gears without complaining but does it's best work 6000-9000.. Took a bit of getting used to but oh my god does it shift! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyj007 Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 hmmn toybox where are you? thought they would be proactive in helping you resolve any issues.. its all very well taking a car in an making it look pretty, with fancy stripes and polished exhausts as they do on all the car they take in but these guys from what i understand are are pretty knowledgable and known for great customer service . its obviously in their interest to make a customer happy, westfield ownership is a very small minority.. just give them a call express what your concerns are, im sure they will be resolved swiftly.. if not keep us posted . someone will be able to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Frankland (T3OMF) Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 17 hours ago, Brewster said: Another quick question since you're both S2000 owners. The water temperature on the dash tends to read about 75C when warm which seems a little low, however, if I leave it idling and it hits 80C on the dash the fan cuts in and cools it down (quickly, which is a relief.) Does this seem right? It crossed my mind that if it was running cool it might be overfuelling, but I don't want to replace the stat if it's just how the dash reads. When mines sat ideling my fan kicks in at about 94 I think, then comes down to 85 before going off. I would get it on a rolling road as you may be chasing something that isn't there, or find another member/owner of a S2000 Westy and go out in theirs. Welcome to the S2000 club from another owner btw 🤘 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewster Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Cheers Tom. I think I'm going to fit a new battery in my IR thermometer and see what it thinks the temperatures are on the block and at the rad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Brewster said: Cheers Tom. I think I'm going to fit a new battery in my IR thermometer and see what it thinks the temperatures are on the block and at the rad. Both the ECU and the Dash2 measure the water temp as it comes out of the head, hence aim here: Ignore the red arrows, the blue is the Omex temp sensor- The red circle below is the Dash2 temp sender The fan stat is mounted here (blue circle) on the rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 I think the majority of S2000's I've seen, seem to run at around an indicated 88 to 92 or so degrees in normal circumstances, the fan cut in is down to whatever the builder to chose to fit, some go for an on at 94 degree stat, others an on at 98 degree version. Standard build Westfields all use a stat in the rad for the fan. (One or two convert to ecu control of the fan, but this requires the ecu to be unlocked first). Note, it is legitimate, even with a correctly calibrated water temp gauge to see a slight difference in coolant temp between where the gauge measures and where the ecu measures. Due to the nature of the cold start plumbing on the engine, this is more pronounced at the early stages of warming t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewster Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Thanks again for the welcome and advice guys. The dash temperature is out on the zero by 15C. I went out to the car this afternoon and when the engine was cold (20C ambient) it was showing 5C. When it's up to 80C after a run in it shows 95C on the ECU. One mystery solved. The dash2 shows firmware version 9 2 8 when the bottom button is held during ignition on. The car still doesn't feel like it has the full 240bhp. I'm going to rig a telltale to VTEC wiring at the solenoid to make sure it's getting the signal to engage. I guess the rolling road on Monday will tell me what's what too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 13 minutes ago, Brewster said: Thanks again for the welcome and advice guys. The dash temperature is out on the zero by 15C. I went out to the car this afternoon and when the engine was cold (20C ambient) it was showing 5C. When it's up to 80C after a run in it shows 95C on the ECU. One mystery solved. I'd not worry about the low end really. The Dash2 software allows you to enter data points to plot a curve and you're limited to circa 12-15 points, so I calibrated mine with readings around the normal engine operating range circa 80-100 degrees C, as this is where we need the accuracy. 13 minutes ago, Brewster said: The dash2 shows firmware version 9 2 8 when the bottom button is held during ignition on. Send me a PM with an e-mail address and I'll send over what you need by wetransfer. Note you can't read out of the Dash, only send from Laptop to the Dash. 13 minutes ago, Brewster said: The car still doesn't feel like it has the full 240bhp. I'm going to rig a telltale to VTEC wiring at the solenoid to make sure it's getting the signal to engage. I guess the rolling road on Monday will tell me what's what too. It's only circa 227bhp in the Westfield chassis due to restrictions with the exhaust manifold in the Westie. But yes, good idea to check Vtec is engaging correctly. You should notice the change in exhaust note as it switches over. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty72 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 My dash2 config needed a tweak or two to get the correct values with some help from @Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Now got it to within 1C of the ecu value. Fan comes on at 95 off at 88. Hope your RR session on Monday answers some of your questions. p.s. Welcome to the club. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAFKARM Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Something must be amiss if it doesn’t feel quick (assuming you aren’t used to 800bhp EVOs) - I took @Andy (Sycho) car round Blyton and it was bonkers. Admittedly I’ve not driven my Westfield for a while, but I’m sure it felt quicker than my 215bhp jalopy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewster Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 No 800bhp monster stuff for me. I'm a little spoiled with a 300bhp aircooled 911 and a modern CLA45S with 421bhp, but both are under 300bhp/tonne. I was expecting to be blown away by a car close to 400bhp/tonne and right now it feels slower than both of my others, despite being a lot more raw, obviously. I'm used to working a VTEC engine too. I had an EP3 TypeR a few moons ago and loved the engine's character. That's what made me go for the S2000 car and not an EcoBoost. I'm wondering if I made a mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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