Fitting of body shell

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

Believe some have drilled, and fitted additional bolts on wheelarche to side and rear panel joint.

I was happy with fit without (lazy option!). Would highly recommend fiting stainless bolts, nyloc nuts and washers (Toolstation again), that joint gets plastered when the road is wet! I used penny washers, and "customised" them to fit the contours on the panels.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I know mine is a different body style, but I found I did need to add some extra to the O/S, as without it wasn’t pulling up well enough to follow the tubs contours.

Opinions are divided on the fixings. Those that like to use the cars on track, whether for competition or just fun, always recommend using the nylon/plastic bolts used for number plates. This just means that in the case of a minor knock, the arch will pop straight off, rather than tearing great holes in the tub.

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

Sure your ok but thinking about fuel filler, make sure you set the rear panel height to allow filler to fit flush, before you cut the hole! If yours is anything like mine, couldn't achieve level across rear panel, like most things on the body, it's a compromise. Just set it by eye!!

After I cut the hole, and bolt holes. I measured and cut the hose accordingly. Then manipulated it into place on the tank, slid both hose clips on, then fitted the filler itself.

[Peter (Monty)]

The post I linked to before (this one) has the photos of my extra tub/arch bolts. This wasn't essential but I was much happier with the alignment afterwards.

[BugMan]

Quick up-date.

I've got the rear-tub, sides and rear arches fitted along with the scuttle, and after much "jiggling" about am reasonable happy with the fitment.  Have to keep reminding myself it's a kit-car and unlikely to be a perfect fit.

I've started looking at the rear tub aluminium rail that helps to support the rear of the tub, and before I commit was looking around the car to see if everything was as good as I can get it.  The rear-tub is consistently against the rear of the cockpit accross its width and with the aid of two lollipop sticks and a large spirit level on the top surface to account for the curve, looks level.

However when I look at the spacing of the rear wheel to the rear fenders I have found that the LH side would appear to be slightly forward of the RH side (gap at the front smaller on the LH side than the RH side between the edge and the wheel). 

Now on the assumption that the rear-tub against the rear structure of the cockpit is fixed, is this unusual, or is it just me being OCD that the 2 sides don't exactly match?

I have measured the distance from the front of the side panel to the front of the chassis and these are the same.  I can't see that there is that much movement in the wheel arches that it would make a difference.

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

In my opinion, provided the scuttle and nose all look OK by eye, don't think there's much you can do about it. I was taken by surprise at how much difference there was in the widths of the wheel arches, but was assured by Mark that it's a feature of the moulds, and when bolted on would be even(ish) across the car, and they are. So small discrepancies of wheel arch to tyre clearances are "a feature of the product". Guess it may change a small amount when the rear toe is adjusted as well!

Can you get the bulkhead carpet (if you're fitting it) up under the lip of the rear tub?

[Andy (Sycho)]

The rear of a fw is not symmetrical so you won’t get it perfect, one side ends up higher than the other. Also the arches are a different shape if you look carefully.

Another thing to check is if you can get the fuel filler in without hitting the tank, this was my first attempt.

 

[BugMan]

51 minutes ago, AdgeC said:

In my opinion, provided the scuttle and nose all look OK by eye, don't think there's much you can do about it. I was taken by surprise at how much difference there was in the widths of the wheel arches, but was assured by Mark that it's a feature of the moulds, and when bolted on would be even(ish) across the car, and they are. So small discrepancies of wheel arch to tyre clearances are "a feature of the product". Guess it may change a small amount when the rear toe is adjusted as well!

Can you get the bulkhead carpet (if you're fitting it) up under the lip of the rear tub?

Are you supposed to have a gap under the rear lip then for the carpet to fit under, as currently mine is pretty tight?

I did wonder about this, hence the post

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

4 hours ago, BugMan said:

Are you supposed to have a gap under the rear lip then for the carpet to fit under, as currently mine is pretty tight?

I did wonder about this, hence the post

Not sure it's a must, ,my carpet fitted flat against the bulkhead and up under the lip. Guess you wouldn't want the lip touching the bulkhead, or it could creak just behind your ear!

Others might have different ideas?

[BugMan]

That would make seance I'll see if i can fit it under (the carpet)

[Thrustyjust]

I used a paint scraper to lift the front edge of the rear panel to get the carpet under it, but it holds it tight 

[Peter (Monty)]

@BugMan mine has a gap between the rear tub top edge and the top of the rear bulkhead. Remember that as well as the carpet, (I think?) you're supposed to fit some grommets to seal off the holes to access the wishbone and top damper bolts, and the latter likely overlap a bit with the rear tub top edge.

Another thing to check, more important than the wheel arch gaps IMO, is whether the rear tub is level. Without the lower bracket fitted, mine is visibly lower on the right side than the left. But, the lip over the top chassis rail appears lower on the left side, as it partially obscures the top damper bolt... I haven't worked out how to fix that second part 

 

[BugMan]

Thanks Monty, I'm going to see if I can shuffle the whole assembly forward a bit and generate a gap between the rear-tub and the rear chassis as IMHO it's toooooo close for comfort as it's physically touching ATM. 

This will mean i have to slot the bolt holes in the side panels a bit where the scuttle is bolted to the frame. but as this is invisible and sealed with adhesive foam strip it will not matter.  Just means the scuttle comes off, yet again.  Getting sick of taking this off and on which is why I had a night away from car building last night, just needed a brake.

 

[BugMan]

Hi team, I'm back in the garage and have just pulled off my scuttle in an effort to sort out the position of the rear-tub.

i can now pull the tub off of the rear chassis, and am able to put a bit of plywood under the rear lip easily enough.  

What if any is the normal gap that should there be between the rear tub and the chassis. 

With this 8mm bit of plywood between the 2, the spacing between the front and rear of the rear wheel and the arch looks a bit better?

I think this gap would then allow for the carpet to easily slip between the 2, and prevent any squeaking etc?

Looking for advice please?

 

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

Gap on mine is probably more like 4/6mm. Carpet was a snug fit, didn't need a scraper though. Just tried to get the carpet out to measure, but it's a b----r to remove with the seats in and hood bag over the top.

If you've shuffled body forward, would advise checking clearance to front lower wishbones, had to relieve front edge of o/s panel, to gain some clearance.