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Peter (Monty)

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About Peter (Monty)

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    Advanced Motorist
  • Birthday June 14

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  1. Dial gauge arrived today, I just checked the run-out on the front corners and got the following: Front right: Hub 0.14mm Disc 0.21mm Front left: Hub 0.04mm Disc 0.10mm Hub measurement was taken from the wheel mounting face. The right is the one making all the noise from the brake pads. I think I read a value of 0.1mm on here somewhere, but I can't remember if it was total 0.1mm or +/-0.1mm... Now that I think of it, the disc bell is painted, including on the hub mounting face... But the right hub value is still very high? Edit: found it again:
  2. Great colour scheme, and the car is really taking shape! Bodywork fitting can be tricky... don't be afraid to take your time and ask questions on here if you're not sure about anything
  3. Tiger Seal amazingly arrived this morning (ordered from Amazon at about 10pm last night!) so got the cycle wings bonded on. I used about a third of the tube just on these 8 fasteners! Big head bolts at the front, big head nuts at the back.
  4. First garage day in several months! First up, something I've been worried about for some time. I need to check the run-out on the front discs as they make intermittent contact with the brake pads when rotating. You can hear the noise in the video below. Is this as big a problem as I think it is? Most of the time today was spent on the bonnet hinge frame. I've been thinking about whether the frame has enough clearance to the engine pulleys, it's probably about 6mm or something at the closest point. I don't have a suitable place for welding in the garage, so out on the driveway (concealed from the pavement) is the best place - except intermittent rain kept hampering progress! I was also wondering if I have the right washers for the drop link to front upright joint. I think I've seen thicker ones than this, a more brass like colour? The lack of spare threads on the right side is also an issue. Front right: Front left: I had never fixed my headlamp brackets as some weld bead inside the clamps on the chassis stopped them sitting correctly. So I spent some time grinding them down appropriately to get them mostly horizontal, then added the extra rivet for piece of mind. I need to replace the bolts with shorter M8s. Last up today were the front wheel arches. The front camber adjusters were wound to maximum negative, I slackened these off to make the wheels roughly vertical. I set the angle of the right wing, ensuring the 30 degree forward coverage whilst getting the rear edge as low as possible to catch stones/dirt/water being thrown up. I then very slightly bent the rear bracket by hand, this had the effect of twisting the wing so the rear bottom edge was sitting evenly across the width of the tyre. To get the right wing centered with the tyre, I sanded away notches in the return flange on the inside edge to clear the bracket arms - this let's it sit a few mm further outboard. I then measured the distance to the ground from the rear bottom edge - 235mm - and matched this with the other wing. I was intending to get them bonded tonight so I could GRP them in a few days, but all my PU adhesive has set hard so this will have to wait until more has arrived!
  5. Zero progress made lately I'm afraid... However I have booked out this Saturday as a full garage day and intend to get going again!
  6. Oh sorry I was just thinking of the floor mats. Yes I'm very worried about the trim material given how little space there is already...
  7. It occurs to me now that as I'm making my own carpets, I was planning on having full cutouts for the seat rails so they dont need to have precisely located holes in them (and the seat rails can be firmly bolted to the floor).
  8. Yes adjusting the holes in the floor is the other option I'd considered. I have my carpet material so will give that a go.
  9. Unintended update today as I was informed the car seats can't stay in the dining room for Christmas day They are just placed in the car for now for storage purposes, not fastened down. Driver looks lower because it is, it doesn't have the rails on it as I need to replace that bolt that got mangled. The other one doesn't fit either, the two rails appear to be too close together (by about 10mm from what I can see, not small). I guess I could slacken off the bolts into the seat base to allow some adjustment, but I see no way to fasten them up again in situ. The clearances to the tunnel and the body side panels at the outboard shoulders is also minimal to none. Has anyone else had trouble fitting seats?
  10. Thanks for the encouraging words, chaps, trust me I am keen to get restarted
  11. @Chris Brading You should be worried when I'm working on the car regularly, me plus power tools, now with added live car electrics
  12. I'm afraid I have no updates since that last one on the heater upgrade in July! A combination of birthdays/holidays etc and travelling a lot for work mean I have just been unable to find the time. I'm really keen to get back out there though - just in time for the winter to set in might finally invest in a proper garage heater this year.
  13. For mine I cut a piece of aluminium sheet to shape which fits in the end of the footwell, and attached at the top and bottom edges with some hinges.
  14. @Rich201060 heater upgrade info from Dave here, including the bypass valve. I have fitted the valve and bulkhead fitting and my latest build diary entry shows the heater and blower fan swap which I'm very pleased with. A bit of extra work (and not finished yet as I'll need to partition off that corner of the engine bay) but I'm very glad I did it and found it easier to do so now before everything is fixed down.
  15. Does that cat pipe rotate? I'm surprised the lambda sensor points upwards, they usually angle downwards a bit to let moisture drawn out. I didn't want to route the lambda wire under the body so I put mine through a hole in the bodyside instead. I would have thought the heatshield would be rotated about 45 degrees further up?
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