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BugMan

WSCC Member
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BugMan last won the day on December 10 2018

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About BugMan

  • Rank
    Advanced Motorist
  • Birthday 30/01/1962

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  • Car Details
    Sport 250
  • My Location
    Hudersfield

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  1. Sounds like the battery is a bit tired, is a lead-acid or one of the newer gel-type batteries? Remember nothing lasts forever, and the cranking current is very high, which will drain the battery very quickly. You could try and put a volt meter on it to see when cold voltage, and then again when hot. Had something similar on a Moto Guzzi 850T3 bike as the gel battery reached end-of-life as at that time I only had a Std battery charger, not the more modern battery conditioner.
  2. I'd be inclined to have a good look over all the rubber bits, like pipe and bushes, likely they might have decayed quite a bit? If it were me I'd change out all the fluids and poss do a flush on the cooling system, just to get any crap out of the system before you consider actually running the engine.# Nice to see another Westfield coming back to life
  3. Tuesday 30, April 2019 Today some more of the bits arrived, including oil and filter I bought from Halfords with my NWKCOG discount card, big thanks to Trevor Harmer, every little helps. + the oilway blanking kit, commonly referred to as the balancer delete kit.
  4. Wednesday 24, April 2019 Today the postman knocked on the door and delivered me a nice, big, box. It was eagerly unwrapped and a few snaps taken.
  5. OK, so just backing up a bit, in my attempt to fully understand the way the wiper circuit works I ended up creating this drawing. This is partly so I could understand it, and part to pass along what I had figured out. On the LH side you have the 3 position switch used by WF (the IVA version), and on the RH side is the actual wiper motor. The yellow double pole, double throw (DPDT) relay, when not being used completes the circuit as normal and this is attached to My new momentary push button, in the middle, toward the tip. Red +12v from the switched, fused circuit. Black is chassis ground. 1) With the WF switch in the off position, if you follow the yellow line through the new relay, power is fed to the common side of the wiper position switch, which if at-rest grounds the feed. If not in the park position power is fed through to the motor to drive it to the park position. This is quite common to ground the motor completely when this circuit has been used. 2) in the switch is in 1st speed, power flows down the red line directly to the motor Speed 1 winding, and the wipers sweep back and forth as expected. 3) In the fats switch speed, power flows to the Speed 2 coil of the motor and the wipers run at the faster speed. So for my push-to-wipe button to work, the relay when switched (blue line) provided power to the coil of the relay, to make it switch.over, which then passes 12V from the supply, directly to the Speed 1 coil of the motor. So as soon as the new button provides power to the motor, you can take your finger off the new button, and the park part of the circuit wil kick in to "park" the wipers as normal. If this is of any help top anybody in the future, I'm just glad to have helped. Westfield Wiring - wipers(5.0}.pdf
  6. BugMan

    New member

    from Yorkshire, where abouts are you in the country, as I'd highly recommend getting along to you local groups next get together/meeting - Was the best thing I ever did on my WF journey
  7. If it's more of transplanting a EcoBoost 2.0L Sport 250 engine into SEiW I'd consider the 1600 EcoBoost power plant as its a slightly smaller package, but the tuning options are much wider and can climb past 300BHP if you know what you are doing. Also to consider as Dave says is the fly-by-wire throttle, which hangs from the top of the driver footwell and the ECU. My chassis still had the 3 mounts on the floor for the pedals but you then need a bit of bent tin to mount the Ford throttle assembly from. WF have just started supplying the 2.0L EcoBoost with a 3rd party ECU over the standard Ford Racing one, which you can do b******* all to as far as I know from a tuning or mapping PoV. Try your local WF group and see if anybody there has a 250 you could have a look at, I'd offer mine but I'm not exactly close. Oh and by the way the exhaust is on the driver side, just another thing to consider
  8. thanks team, it's off now. Ended up using Stanley knife blades along the sean to very gently break the two apart, took over an hour of gentle tapping, resulting in no damage to the surfaces
  9. Thanks, I’ll give that a try
  10. I'm just starting the swap out of my sump on the sport 250 following AdgeC process, and so far have drained the oil and coolant, removed quite a bit of the car to get to the bolts fixing the bell housing to the back of the Ford EcoBoost and have about 1mm separation between the 2. All the retaining bolts removed from the sump, and the 4 from the front timing cover, but can't get the sump to budge, given its fixed on with liquid sealant. Any suggestions welcome on how to separate the 2? Tried tapping around the sump with a copper-hide, no luck.
  11. What a great solution, and looks like it will work well, +1
  12. I'm glad for you they unscrewed, would have been a b******* to fit otherwise - onward and upward
  13. Saturday 13, April 2019 Put some of the back of the car back together, and after re-filling my 2 small 2.5L petrol cans with petrol, I decided to wrap them in kitchen cling-film to hopefully stop the smell of petrol in the boot box.
  14. Sunday 07, April 2019 So, after waiting for some small-bore split conduit I ran in a twin pair of red/black feed wired to bring 12V to the back of the cockpit along with the signal wire for the rear-view camera this was run down the centre. This needed a small notch cutting into the smaller aluminium tunnel top panel to pass it out from the tunnel. Friday 12, April 2019 So, while fiddling around with my dash, I found that the illumination in the light switch had stopped working, after losing my wag a bit I took the bl**** thing apart and found a tiny, teeny weeny light bulb, 14v had blown. Managed to find them on Amazon but delivery was a while so I ended up taking once of the unused dash lights apart and extracting the bulb along with it’s 2 thin wires, which were soldered back into the IVA light switch – a nunney of a bit of work to do.
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