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BugMan last won the day on December 10 2018

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About BugMan

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    Advanced Motorist
  • Birthday 30/01/1962

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    Sport 250
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  1. Have you made any progress in finding the cause yet?
  2. And on CBS :- https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/programmable-intermittent-wiper-relay
  3. Just wasting time browsing around the web, and came across this while following one of my off-topic links relating to wipers. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et219.htm This led me hitting fleeBay looking at relays that might do the job https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xintermittent+wiper+relay.TRS0&_nkw=intermittent+wiper+relay&_sacat=0 Anybody any experience with achieving something like this?
  4. Think myself and Dave will be along as he has offered me a lift again as my WF is still up on jacks being "fiddled" with
  5. from a wet and windy Yorkshire
  6. Sure you have considered it, but watch out for the rear gearbox mount, which needs to clear the fixings and pipework on the the rear bolt(s)
  7. Just watch out for the carpet gap Two7 on the rear panel if your fitting carpet
  8. I've got the press stud fixings on mine, and had the LH side detach as the stud on the hood as not hammered in enough which was my fault, but also caused by being out on a very windy day without doors on. Ended up crawling home holding the LH edge of the hood and managed to get home with it before the plastic mounting strip had a chance to fail. As the 250 has the taller screen I've also found the std doors are no tall enough as well, and have been experimenting with black duct tape on the top edge to add about 1" to the hight and have been playing around with spaces on the door hinges as well. Probably just me but did follow all the setting for things like the rake on the windscreen and used the existing holes in the doors, once I found then with a needle
  9. +1 for the holes in the heater mounting, that never even occurred to me and I could have taking out some of my frustration with the bl**** thing, what a great idea
  10. Not sure if this helps, but it's a "searchable" WF diagram and has helped me with all things electrical in the WF including the Sport 250 ? 4833 Chassis Harness searchable txt.pdf
  11. Just watch the hight of the rear tub over the petrol tank as well, as this helps set the distance above the rear wheels. Keep at it until your happy, as thats what is important, and don't forget that the mouldings are not 100% the same in my experience, especially the rear arches. Also take into account you will need to get the carpet under the rear lip, if indeed you have gone for carpets, as I had a nightmare of a job with paint scrapers to get the carpet under the lip, which may well have just been me. I used a stack of lolly-pop sticks across the back panel, which helped, but it was still a struggle.
  12. Again +1 for foam strip and rivnut or just tap an M5 thread into the chassis members. Was not asked to remove for IVA, but know others have mentioned this. Avoid the silicone route as it will be waterproof, but a nunney to get off in the future. Good idea to be removable when you lose something down the footwell and future proof as TJ says to access the beddles and cables, unless you are Mr Bendy.
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