Fitting of body shell

[BugMan]

Again request for advice on the riveting of the shell to the chassis, as this is approaching fast.  I've been through the FW manual again and can't remember much about how the shell and inside panels are to be fitted. 

Have some smaller black headed rivets in my supplied kit, but no real guidance on number of holes, pitch between or how many.  I assume these are just for the 2 inside panels that go on the outside of the cabin, and then the rest of the shell attachment is just be normal 4mm plain rivets.

Does the shell need any bonding like silicone or anything?

Also any tips on putting the shell together?

My rough plan was to assemble the rear section, side panels and rear wheel arches together on the drive once i had cut any holes for the filler and exhaust etc. and then attempt to fit this over the back of the car, with the first point of contact being the lip on the rear tub, and then hinge it down, but I'm open to any advice?

Thanks in advance

[darve]

don't cut any holes until you've lined it up and marked up for yourself

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

I fitted my body one piece at a time (after a trial assembly off the car) found it much less unwieldy.

Personally I wouldn't cut any holes (exhaust, fuel filler, seat belt eyes) until the panels are attached to the car. It's suprising how much the rear panel moves when manipulating it to get enough height for the fuel filler.

Exhaust is straightforward to do with the panel riveted on, as is the support hole.

Fuel filler and belt eyes are also straightforward to do insitu.

Its a bit like trying to align a jelly, and no matter how hard you try, think it would be nigh on impossible to clamp the side panels in place in the same manner as can be achieved by rivets.

I had some countersunk rivets that are used on the side panel top returns in the engine bay, and large head rivets for the underside. Only other body fixings, apart from scuttle are the rear panel lower support (Ali angle that sits under the diagonal rear chassis members), which I found determines height and level of rear panel.

Cant remember rivet spacing I used, can measure and let you know if it helps.

[David Oxfordshire]

Having just done this I would take the advice of the chaps above, although mine is ZK i had to get the tub as far forward as i could (within reason) to get the rear wheels in the centre of the arches. Only real advice is take your time and measure where it all sits twice.

Also..for my exhaust i templated the location of the exhaust without the body on (using some cardboard), then used that afterwards to mark where to cut....which was quite low stress really.

Oh and dont forget to position it with the scuttle and bonnet on :-)

[David Oxfordshire]

Black rivets i think are for the reg plate and / or the arch protectors....sure someone will confirm that..

[BugMan]

Thanks guys, much appreciated

 

[BugMan]

Guy's a quick sanity check as I'm ready to fit the body shell.

Am i right in thinking i fix the position of the reat tub to side panels, taking into account the fit of the rear fenders, get all that in-place before i do the fuel filler cap and seatbelt mountings?

Just wondering how the hell you then get the filler cap neck into place?

[Peter (Monty)]

I'm pretty sure you can rotate in the filler neck hose with the rear tub in place. But you need to measure up where to drill the holes afterwards, certainly for the seat belt anchorages.

[BugMan]

Thanks Monty, I'm following what AdgeC did roughly, and bolting the shell together on the chassis, I've got all the hole centres ready,

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

From my experience definitely fix the body panels in place before cutting any holes. A seemingly small adjustment to body position, including raising the rear panel can have a significant effect on the rollbar, seatbelt, and fuel filler hole positions.

Fuel filler has a cork gasket that sits down on the top of the rear panel. The c/sunk screws go into a C shaped mount, that sits against the underside of the panel, and clamps it all in place. It's fiddly but you can fit the hose, clips etc through the gap between tank and rear panel and down through the hole. Just watch your knuckles!

Would suggest taking some datums from rear bulkhead to get hole positions before you fit the rear panel. Then having checked, and double checked, drill a small hole, and see where you are. You can then enlarge each hole, and "move" them if necessary using a Dremel.

Sure there are alternatives, but worked for me.

This sort of shows how I tried to establish hole datums! Be wary that he bulkhead is not completely flat, well men wasn't anyway

I cut the exhaust and mount holes with the panels riveted on. Again started small, and enlarged and positioned accordingly.

Chain drilled the exhaust hole, and cleaned up with Dremel 

Some ideas anyway! Best of luck, it's not to bad once you start, just nerve racking as you're about to drill for the first hole, if you're anything like I was!

[Peter (Monty)]

I based mine on Adge's build thread photos too. Photo here.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

What Adge said; do not cut any holes etc until the body is finally fixed; a small correction in position at one end, can translate to a big movement at the other! Especially from top to bottom of the tub, as it flexes to take final shape, surfaces can move in somewhat unpredictable directions!!

[BugMan]

Sweet, thanks AdgeC, I'm pretty much on the same road with the same approach.

Currently taking rear wheels off to bolt on wing's, figured I'd try to get the shell together in the best way I can, B4 thingking about any drilling, but have everything marked up ready from datums on the chassis.

[BugMan]

Totally agree, cant believe how much movement in one bit moves everything else.

Thanks Team, so glad of everybody's help, i'd be stuck without it

[BugMan]

Q. Is it common practice to put some extra screws in between the arches and the tub/side panels?