Dash board fixing

[BugMan]

Ok team, just finished getting my scuttle to fit onto the chassis as its currently got the rear-panel, and side panels fitted to locate the rather complicated cut-out for the fly-by-wire throttle.

Have my dash fitted out with some of the switches etc, following AdgeC lay-out, without the AIM dash in it yet,and have just offered up the dash panel to roughly line up the edges.  I also used a straight line to bend the 2 welded on brackets, to help support the dash, is that correct?

I have worked out that the crash pad which goes around the outside must then cover the bolt's holding the dash to the scuttle, and following other builds am going to order the M4 clips

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Speed-Fastener-Chimney-Tapping-Metric/dp/B01MCYOL7I/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521243951&sr=1-4&keywords=Metric+Screw+Lug+Spire+Clips

Have not seen anybody really detail how many screws are generally used to bolt the two together, so looking for advise on how many to use?

I'm then assuming that the crash pad is fixed using hook & loop tape to hold this in place?

I like the idea of being able to drop out the dash if needed by just un-screwing after removing the crash pad. 

Have a bag odd button head M5 screws/washers/nyloc's x10 sets from WF, but that seems like a hell of a lot of LARGE fixings so am planing to switch to M4, and that I think nuts would be a b***h to un-do if I ever needed to remove

 

[BugMan]

Just checked the supplied fixings, and to add further insult to injury I think they are Imperial, not M5 as they measure 4.75mm 

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I’m not really keen on those sort of fixings for the dash, the ones I’ve experimented with before on GRP have never worked overly well, especially in the confines of tight edges like you have in the scuttle. Rivnuts, in aluminium, carefully applied, are much better, or some people use the rubber version of Rivnuts, fairing mountings?

Yeah the original bolt and screw set up is a real pain!

I’ve never had to bend anything to fit the dash, but not impossible I guess...

I use M4 for the dash as well. On a standard type dash, it probably is about 10, I’ve used, spaced evenly round. (Fewer on the contour dash, due to the overhang around the speedo and rev counter, and needing to trim away the lip of the scuttle to suit).

Yes, the crash pad is fixed on with hook and loop tape, unless you fit a tonneau (post Iva of course), in which case, you rivet on press Stu DS for the cover, which also tend to anchor it to the scuttle.

[BugMan]

Thanks Dave, really appreciate the help.  I have a bit of the scuttle cut away for the fly-by-wire so I’ll test on that.

On a related question, I assume you then fix the scuttle to the shell using the fitted rivet nuts, with a suitable hole drilled through both, and then a screw and washer on the inside to hold everything in place?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Yes, the scuttle is “just” held down by the four M6 bolts into those four Rivnuts in the chassis. Though for sealing purposes, some also lay the scuttle on a bed of silicon. (Alternatively, use closed cell foam between them, or similar. Though you might still want to add a bead of silicon to the joins once the scuttle is bolted down).

The pedal box cover or in your case DBW cover will no doubt add a few extra fixings and sealing, but it’s the M6 bolts that really take the load.

[Thrustyjust]

As @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary says. I used aluminium M4 rivnuts for the dash and I put a splodge of coppa slip on the bolts just in case and everything undoes pretty easily. Make sure with the crash pad you use lots of glue to redo the vinyl as mine came undone whenever I took the thing off, so unpeeled and used car builders adhesive and it seems to have cured this issue. I also used M4 countersunk bolts in black with a flat face as it stops the vinyl pulling through when nipping up

 

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

Have a good look and feel around the edge of your dash. Mine was already predrilled in the Ali. but covered on both sides by the leather cloth. Easier to locate them from the back, no padding there. I found a adjustable hole punch worked a treat on the leather cloth, once I'd found the holes.

This might give you a guide where to start looking

I had some M5 Ali rivnuts supplied in my kit. I had M5 SS button head bolts in stock. They're only penny's at places like Toolstation or Screwfix, useful to have a variety I found.

Bumper pad secured with Velcro, again had a length supplied.

Found this place, that supplies black SS flanged bolts like TJ suggested. Excellent service, ordered at 10.30 Thursday, arrived in post 13.00 Friday. Not as cheap as Toolstation, but appear to quality bolts.

https://www.carbolts.co.uk/

 

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

With the bumper pad, unless things have changed, you need to sculpt it to fit the Aim dash!

Youll need to unpeeled the leather cloth from the front edge local to Aim position. Then trim back the grp to give clearance, then restick the leather cloth. Again, as TJ I've restuck bumper pad leather cloth and Velcro using Evostick. Found a way to remove bumper pad is to work a 6" steel rule between the Velcro, and work my way round. If not I found the Velcro came away. Don't want to use Evostick on the scuttle, in case I upgrade the dash in future!

Bumper pad trimming

I missed out the dash bolt immediately above the Aim dash, all a bit tight in that area. Dash appears rigid enough.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I’ve not tried Evostick for trim, so this might be irrelevant!

Of you use a good upholstery type contact adhesive, (from Car Builder Solutions, or wherever) and get the high temperature  version, it won’t peel away in the summer sun the way regular stuff does. But more importantly, it can be cleaned off either when applying or (on a solid substrate, like GRP or metal), years later, by use of WD40!

The more dried out and set it is, the more you need to soak old contact adhesive deposits in WD40, but it will eventually remove all traces.

[BugMan]

Thanks guy's I'll go and have a feel of my dash today, and fitting the AIM was next on my list.

I'm hoping today to try the bonnet and nose cone to see if I need to fiddle with the nose cone mountings. 

Having seen everybody else having to move the rad, and dispute being told I would be OK by WF, I have put off doing anything much with the nose.

I also have a GRP/fiberglass duct for the rad, which I've not seen on any builds before, is this new?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

4 minutes ago, BugMan said:

I also have a GRP/fiberglass duct for the rad, which I've not seen on any builds before, is this new?

Pictures?

ive only seen a GRP duct with the V8 ducted nose, previously. Otherwise, the optional nose ducting - Aerorace duct, officially, was flat packed aluminium, and obviously, being for the Aerorace model, not designed to go on the intercooler/radiator package.

Be interested to see the new design part.

[BugMan]

Here you go, freshly unwrapped 

 

[BugMan]

Ok, no mounting holes in the dash - Ug

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Ah, I've never seen one properly, but that does ring a slight bell! I wonder if it's from the Sport Turbo?

[BugMan]

Perhaps WF took inspiration from Steve's 250 build to duct the in-coming air, as I've not seen one like this in any of the current builds?