Rear light bonding question

[BugMan]

Ok, just started looking at the rear lights on my Sport 250 build, think I've figured out what goes in what holes etc.  Reversing and rear fog quite easy, although WF short on fitting nyloc nuts/washers.

Looking at the LED ring/indicator - fitted yellow bulbs (for now as intend to switch to LED in the future) into the clear holder and can see then see how they screw into the outer ring with the 3 self-tappers.

FW manual talks about bonding these into the rear tub with "Nail's" type products, and I'm looking for suggestions?

Am I right to assume that the idea is to drill 3 matching holes through the tub, to match up with the 3 holes in the ring indicator, and then use some mastic (Nail's) type stuff to make it water-tight,and screw through from the inside, through the tub, into the ring?

On the reflectors, am I also right to assume you just push the reflector into the middle of the red ring,and then fix in the same way as the brake/indicator?

If so i think I'm also missing the self-tappers for this from WF?

 

Appreciate any help and recommendations

 

PS - i bought some Puraflex 40 for panel fitting, would this work for the lights? 

;-

 

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

Yep. I had no self tappers in my kit either! You need quite small fine ones from memory. I recall no more nails was used for some of the LED lights and the relectors. The fog and reserve bolt on to existing studs in the fiberglass. I've flush mounted them post IVA with no more nails too. Ensure you get the orientation correct on the reflectors, they do have a right way up on them.

I made a cardboard template with a compass to get the holes in the right place.

[BugMan]

Ironically I have a compass in my hand as we type Bagpuss

[Rhett Turner - Black Country AO]

I didn't use glue to fix my rear lights, I used a combination of m4 nuts and bolts and small self taping screws. Good job as one of the rear LED lights failed and as the design had changed I had to swap both of them for new.

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

Didn't glue my rear lights in either, just in case of a failure. Fortunately had some SS self tappers in my workshop. Check they look central from the rear, don't assume the holes in the panel are central in the moulding, IYSWIM.

When the rear panel is on the car, you might want to check the fog light is verticalish. Somebody had a problem with IVA on that. Ended up having to space and fettle mine quite a bit to get it looking reasonable. Did the reversing light to match as well.

[Thrustyjust]

I used M4 socket cap bolts and tapped the fittings on the lights. I thought that if I used self tappers, they might expand the plastic and crack it.

[Rhett Turner - Black Country AO]

I originally used m4 socket cap bolts but when I changed the lights, as access was restricted, I ended up cutting the end of the bolts off to give me some m4 threaded bar, I then screwed this into the light (having taped the hole) and then this went through the hole in the body work and I then used a nut to secure. I found trying to get a bolt through the hole and lined up with the hole in the light while working through the boot hole rather difficult.

[BugMan]

Thanks guy's, will avoid the glue, and will tap the holes out for M4, as I have a load of them and generally hate self-tappers.

Just made this jig up out of one of the drive shaft covers which will make things a lot easier.

Not sure if others had this but the rear fog and reverse lights seem to stand out quite a long way on the 3 stud's, is this correct or should they be flush with the rear bodywork ?

[BugMan]

Just now, Rhett - Joint Black Country AO said:

I originally used m4 socket cap bolts but when I changed the lights, as access was restricted, I ended up cutting the end of the bolts off to give me some m4 threaded bar, I then screwed this into the light (having taped the hole) and then this went through the hole in the body work and I then used a nut to secure. I found trying to get a bolt through the hole and lined up with the hole in the light while working through the boot hole rather difficult.

bl****well like that idea, have some bolts that can be made to do that with a bit of hack-saw work

 

Thanks

 

[CosKev]

1 hour ago, BugMan said:

think I've figured out what goes in what holes etc.  

 

Your poor Mrs 

[Rhett Turner - Black Country AO]

1 hour ago, BugMan said:

Not sure if others had this but the rear fog and reverse lights seem to stand out quite a long way on the 3 stud's, is this correct or should they be flush with the rear bodywork ?

I was advised by the factory when I built mine to put nuts on these first, so you end up with light, nut (1), body work & nut (2), plus washers of course. You can then use nut (1) to adjust how far out the light protrudes. 

[BugMan]

Just now, Rhett - Joint Black Country AO said:

I was advised by the factory when I built mine to put nuts on these first, so you end up with light, nut (1), body work & nut (2), plus washers of course. You can then use nut (1) to adjust how far out the light protrudes. 

So did you end up with the fog/revers flush with the bodywork?

 

[Rhett Turner - Black Country AO]

probably not flush,  they stick out a little. I think I wanted to be sure that they were vertical compared to the road rather than parallel to the body work. using two nuts allows a reasonable degree of adjustment.  

[Peter (Monty)]

@BugMan I fitted mine as per the photo below, this is based on the setup I saw at the factory (photos from that visit here).

It looks like your lights have a different housing but the principle should be the same. If you're brave you can drill out the holes an extra 0.5-1mm to allow a bit more twist in the lamp.

[Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO]

As Monty says, had to dress the hole in the body, and carefully in the bolt holes in the fittings to try to get them near vertical to the road.