Quinten Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 Oh, dont forget when the prop comes out the back, the gearbox tail is open to let the oil flood everywhere . Just a reminder The gearbox is already out, and yes, I can confirm it contains a lot of oil too Small bag of cement is in my garage just for oil spills. It makes the clean up job loads easier Good tip! Should have some cement from a job leftover somewhere... But I take it you don't use water to wash it away? How do you clean up the oily cementy mess afterwards? Just thought looking at your pic of gearbox in the tunnel - looks like you don't have the wide tunnel, so gearbox sits forward compared to mine. Therefore the engine mounts will also sit further forward. might be something to check? Yes, I think the zetec mounts will sit further forward than the xflow position. I cut a block of wood in the length of how far my bell housing sticks out in the engine bay, so I can drop the engine with mounts on into the engine bay and see what sort of position they need to be in without messing with the gearbox as well. Which reminds me, I still need an exhaust side mount... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrustyjust Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 From past experience of doing spanner work for a mates rally car. I believe its a requirement to prep cars on top of a tarpaulin for the reasons of ground contamination. Although you are almost oil free now, but just an idea for another day maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 The cement soaks the oil up and you just brush it up. Works remarkably well and often leaves little trace! Had my engine and box out too many times and alway spill something out of where prop fits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dombanks Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 I try to leave the box in place for that very reason now. No matter how hard you try the box just pees oil out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 From past experience of doing spanner work for a mates rally car. I believe its a requirement to prep cars on top of a tarpaulin for the reasons of ground contamination. Although you are almost oil free now, but just an idea for another day maybe. Yeah, it also sounds way to sensible... I'm known for starting to work in the garage in my 'normal' clothes just to that 'little job'... You should be able to hear my wife complaining after I come back indoors 4 hours later covered in grease 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
congorobot Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Just thought looking at your pic of gearbox in the tunnel - looks like you don't have the wide tunnel, so gearbox sits forward compared to mine. Therefore the engine mounts will also sit further forward. might be something to check? I saw another members modified bellhousing recently that allowed it to be fitted right back into tunnel as far as the flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 I saw another members modified bellhousing recently that allowed it to be fitted right back into tunnel as far as the flywheel Depends on the tunnel. Just chopped a chunk off my brand new alloy bellhousing to get it to fit. But I have newer chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 I think mines like this one with a narrow tunnel. The bell housing starter hump suits about 1 inch off the bulkhead. When fitting the zetec to replace cvh, at the time I didn't realise it was different to most zetec installs. The problems I've had was the westfield 4-1 manifold would contact the mud guard. And I had to modify the bonnet to close it even though I have a v8 bonnet. The option of cutting the Bellhousing, shortened prop, modified gear linkage and making new engine mounts have crossed my mind. But it's a lot of work, seeing I've overcome the issues anyway. But on the plus side I don't need an expensive water rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrustyjust Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 When I needed to cut a lump out of an alloy bellhousing, I was told to use a wood saw. It will cut like a hot knife through butter. This was by the guy building my crossflow. And he was right. Cut it nice and straight and hardly any cleaning up afterwards either ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 When I needed to cut a lump out of an alloy bellhousing, I was told to use a wood saw. It will cut like a hot knife through butter. This was by the guy building my crossflow. And he was right. Cut it nice and straight and hardly any cleaning up afterwards either ! Dammit - just did mine with the angry grinder and dremmel. Wasn't that easy, but ended up neat enough. Wish i'd known this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin (Mr T) Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 I saw another members modified bellhousing recently that allowed it to be fitted right back into tunnel as far as the flywheel Sounds so much like an innuendo! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsechris Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Suspect this will end up like ours did. A 1991 wide. Had to move the engine mounts forward and also relocate the gearbox mount plate as well. Worst knock-on was the near side front cycle wing hitting the 4-1 so we had to fit widetrack to get back to a sensible turn radius. Bonnet clearance was just OK even with a stock bonnet. Later fitted a V8 bonnet to improve cooling/clearance as it was a tad tight. Even with a chunk hacked off the bell housing there was no way it was going very far back in the chassis. Needed the remote gearshift kit. Remote filter head was essential as well. Even with that, had to skew the engine over to the left slightly to get enough clearance between the steering column and the top of the remote filter takeoff. Not ideal but it's given no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 Uhm... Should I have planned 60 months for this engine swap?!?! I will do a test fit with the new engine as soon as I can get the car out of the garage (without axle)... If only to see what I am up against Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsechris Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 It'll be fine. None of these things are show stoppers, just minor niggles that you need to resolve. Trying to remember now if I moved the engine mount support plates forward or perhaps extended them a bit to accommodate the mor forward location. For sure, bolt engine and box together then get them in the hole as a unit, with the main components available so you can make sure everything fits. I think I also had to put a small dent in one branch of the exhaust manifold to clear the side diagonal tube as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Dammit - just did mine with the angry grinder and dremmel. Wasn't that easy, but ended up neat enough. Wish i'd known this. For those not aware, you do need to be really carefull cutting aluminium with a grinder, it's often best to bin the cutting disc afterwards, just to ere on the side of caution. (Aluminium can sort of melt into the disc as you cut, which can, in rare circumstances, cause the disc to shatter in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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