Jump to content

Quinten

WSCC Member
  • Content Count

    2,705
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Quinten last won the day on March 25 2018

Quinten had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

594 Brilliant

2 Followers

About Quinten

  • Rank
    tall dutch bloke
  • Birthday 03/09/1970

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    1998 Westfield SEW 1.8 Silvertop Zetec
  • My Location
    Northampton

Recent Profile Visitors

5,219 profile views
  1. There's a tuner that Westfield themselves uses, just across the road from the factory. The name escapes me now, but they may be able to help? As good as NMS is, they do only really want to do the Omex stuff. Another option may be LynxAE ? There's also a 'nearest tuner' search on the ME website... did you look there?
  2. You've confirmed my suspicion Mike, I think I have to conclude that this fault is of my own doing My fan is ground switched, so when I installed this last year, I used the switched 12V on a relay to switch to ground. In other words, it wasn't connected to the fan. But a couple of weeks ago, when I was tidying up the wiring, I put the 12V directly on the fan, bypassing the fan relay. Surprisingly it managed to last the odd hundred mile I've done so far. And if it wasn't for re-doing the original relay wiring again today, the first time I would have noticed is my car overheating in traffic! Doh! I've ordered a new MOSFET now, so I'll give it a go at least... but I dont think I can hold the Russians responsible now
  3. No idea. It appears to be heat related, so I imagine with it being made in Russia, it is used to lower temperatures At the moment it looks like a £1.99 fix. If it is not fixed, then I'll look at replacing it and confirming the warranty conditions with CBS.
  4. Found out the component is a MOSFET and the top bit and middle pin are effectively the same, so if I can find the model, I should be able to replace it.
  5. Last year at Stoneleigh I bought one of these and although it worked fine for the past year, today I discovered it no longer switched my fan on/off. Upon investigating I came upon this mess The white wire is soldered to a piece of metal which was connected to the component that had completely come away from the PCB. The middle pin appears to be cut short, although it may also have been connected to the same metal piece. This is where I need some help from the likes of @Kit Car Electronics. I'm not scared of doing a little soldering, but I'm not sure what the connections should be. The white wire would carry 12V if the temperature of the sensor (connected to those 4 wires on the left hand side of the PCB) reads between the lower and upper limit set on the display (not shown). The red and black wires are the 12V in and GND to power the controller.
  6. After contacting Oddified, I decided that I wasn't going to risk not being able to drive the Westfield with the nice weather we're currently having, but the car has become virtually undriveable. Have today removed the ECU and will send it to Oddified tomorrow. Fingers crossed he's able to look at it before Stoneleigh, but there is a bleak possibility that I will not be going in the Westfield this year
  7. I'm not normally there on the Saturday, but I could meet you at the entrance? PM me for further arrangements
  8. My old wheels before I changed to 13"s They have tyres on them, but they are old, worn and only suitable for pushing the car around on. The alloys are 6J and have a back space of 12.8cm. Standard 4x108 Ford fitment. Looking for £100 collected from Northampton. Could also bring them to Stoneleigh, but I would ask for a deposit beforehand....
  9. Bit of a late one, but is anyone else going to https://caffeineandmachine.com/built-not-bought-standard-need-not-apply/ tomorrow ? I've not been before, but have heard good things about the place...
  10. Small update. Didn't receive a call back, so went to work in the Westfield this morning and it behaved again impeccably. After work, took a similar route home and eventually ended up experiencing the same problem at the same location as where it happened on Tuesday! Fortunately I was able to keep the engine going better than on Tuesday and drove straight to NMS where Troy spend over an hour trying to diagnose what he called "the worst kind of symptoms". Hooking it up to the laptop proved inconclusive as well. The TPS values were sometimes way out, so he fitted a brand new one but this made no difference to the readings. Swapped the crank sensor for a brand new one and this neither made a difference to the engine running. From the diagnostic screen he could see the injector (something something) setting which should have a low value (below 5 or so) on idle, but you could see it going to above 60/70 meaning it would dump a lot of fuel in causing it to stall. He explained that it looks like either a sensor reading causes the ECU to calculate the wrong injector (something something) value, or the ECU itself is doing something spurious. As my ECU is 20 years old, this may well be it, although the wiring loom is just as old and could be suspect too. In the end, after trying a few more tweaks to the map, he upped the idle RPM ever so slightly, which kept the engine running, and more importantly, allowed the engine to keep running when started. Will have to see how this works out after doing a few more long runs. I'm going to give Oddified a call on Monday to see what his turnaround time is on a refurbish as that's got to be worth a try at this point in time...
  11. The behaviour is more apparent when the engine is warm/hot than when cold. I've spoken to NMS and they think it is most likely the map that needs a minor tweak. They say it is not uncommon to tweak it in that area. Just waiting for a call back when they have time to book it in.
  12. At this moment in time, it could be everything and anything. I came home today from work and rolled the car out of the garage and it fired up as normal and didnt exhibit the behaviour from yesterday at all. The only weird thing, and I'll be popping round to NMS tomorrow to discuss it, is that when you hit the starter button, the car runs almost at the point of stalling and not even registering RPM on the tacho, until you ever so lightly tap the accelerator. Once you do that, the revs raise to 1K rpm where it idles as normal. I've ordered a new fuel filter and some new sparks, but hopefully NMS can shed some light on the map.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.