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Dear Diary: My journey from Xflow to Zetec... Now definitely done!


Quinten

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The tank is nearly out, and won't be back in for a long time, so got plenty of time to contemplate and/or clean :yes:

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This weekend I cracked on and got the gearbox out, which kindly dumped most if not all its oil on my drive... doh! Screwfix's No Nonsense Heavy Duty degreaser and a pressure washer got most of it clean again... Pfew!

2016-10-16+14_15_57.jpg

Then it was time to get the rear (live) axle out as it needs new seals. Got the panhard rod and trailing arms out, but I still can't get the bl**dy diff bolts out. Have taken the angle grinder to them, but now I'm stuck. Any more ideas?

2016-10-16+16_51_56.jpg

Also, can anyone confirm that the only way to get the axle out (with the diff, but not the propshaft) is out of the arches, sideways?

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If you are replacing diff seals anyway, you could remove the half shafts and brake drum back plates before removing the axle. This will reduce the weight of the axle that needs to be removed sideways through the arches. It is awkward and an assistant is useful.

The prop shaft should come off with the bolt ends ground off. It is a plain, non threaded hole through the diff flange and prop shaft uj flange. Might be a bit of shoulder left on the bols preventing this?

Jen

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This weekend I cracked on and got the gearbox out, which kindly dumped most if not all its oil on my drive... doh! Screwfix's No Nonsense Heavy Duty degreaser and a pressure washer got most of it clean again... Pfew!

2016-10-16+14_15_57.jpg

Then it was time to get the rear (live) axle out as it needs new seals. Got the panhard rod and trailing arms out, but I still can't get the bl**dy diff bolts out. Have taken the angle grinder to them, but now I'm stuck. Any more ideas?

2016-10-16+16_51_56.jpg

Also, can anyone confirm that the only way to get the axle out (with the diff, but not the propshaft) is out of the arches, sideways?

 

 

To separate the flanges I'd be tempted to use a large flat screwdriver, or cold chisel/knackered wood chisel between them and rapid light hammer taps.

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If you are replacing diff seals anyway, you could remove the half shafts and brake drum back plates before removing the axle. This will reduce the weight of the axle that needs to be removed sideways through the arches. It is awkward and an assistant is useful.

I rather not remove the half shafts, but I can see how that would make things a bit easier.

The prop shaft should come off with the bolt ends ground off. It is a plain, non threaded hole through the diff flange and prop shaft uj flange. Might be a bit of shoulder left on the bols preventing this?

Jen

Yes, I think that is what is happening. They rotate freely when I use a spanner on the nylocs. Bit more grinding required :yes:

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To separate the flanges I'd be tempted to use a large flat screwdriver, or cold chisel/knackered wood chisel between them and rapid light hammer taps.

I tried the flat screwdriver, but I didn't want to try to hard for fear of damaging the flange on the shaft. A chisel is probably a better tool for that though

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Yep, get the grinder back out and finish the job  :d

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Yep, get the grinder back out and finish the job  :d

 

I'm surprised Quinten had the cheek to post a photo and ask for advice on a half finished job  ;)

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I'm surprised Quinten had the cheek to post a photo and ask for advice on a half finished job  ;)

I was quite fed up after cleaning up after the Exxon Valdez dumped its load on my drive and I hadn't even started on the axle yet!

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I was quite fed up after cleaning up after the Exxon Valdez dumped its load on my drive and I hadn't even started on the axle yet!

Oh, dont forget when the prop comes out the back, the gearbox tail is open to let the oil flood everywhere . Just a reminder  :p

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Small bag of cement is in my garage just for oil spills. It makes the clean up job loads easier :)

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Just thought looking at your pic of gearbox in the tunnel - looks like you don't have the wide tunnel, so gearbox sits forward compared to mine. Therefore the engine mounts will also sit further forward. might be something to check?

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