Quinten Posted October 3, 2016 Author Posted October 3, 2016 I only came across it through the locostbuilder forum, it is supposed to be to one for the V8 (not TDIs etc), so I am assuming the flow rate/pressure will be suitable for my 'weedy' 4 cylinder. Can only (so far after googling) find one seller who quotes 3.5 bar and not much else. Still not done googling though Quote
Thrustyjust Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Right, so the conclusion is that there is no conclusion yet, and once I have lifted my Xflow and gearbox I should be able to determine which one is required. This may be a stupid question, but is there a way of testing the correct function of gearbox+engine 'on the work bench'? Why dont you just call Raceline ?. Say you are swopping from a xflow to a Zetec and ask them what you need and see what they say. As for bench testing , as long as the right parts are used , that the clutch arm presses on the pressure plate it should be fine. Ford were quite good at making parts interchangeable between models, but you just need to know by speaking to someone like Raceline on confirming the right parts . Quote
Kingster Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Right, so the conclusion is that there is no conclusion yet, and once I have lifted my Xflow and gearbox I should be able to determine which one is required. This may be a stupid question, but is there a way of testing the correct function of gearbox+engine 'on the work bench'? TBH when I put mine together, I mated it all up on the floor (bench wasn't up to it!) and you could see that there was reasonable "throw" on the clutch arm through the bellhousing - and it all went in OK and has done 7k miles since! Quote
dombanks Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 From my experience with the wrong release bearing using the dunnel setup you will see the release arm in the wrong place. For me the arm was right up towards one end of the slot with the wrong bearing and slap bang in the middle with right bearing. Quote
Kingster Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Right found something that suggests your clutch is a pinto one so reckon that you'd need the pinto release bearing as per the burton link I posted. http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=206113 See pic half way on the post above. Quote
Quinten Posted October 3, 2016 Author Posted October 3, 2016 Right found something that suggests your clutch is a pinto one so reckon that you'd need the pinto release bearing as per the burton link I posted. http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=206113 See pic half way on the post above. That thread leads to a for sale post? I'm not trying to be awkward btw, this is all very very new to me and although I spend pretty much all day on Google, sometimes it is just easier to learn from those who know. Quote
Kingster Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Yeah sorry about my ramblings! The thread shows a Sierra clutch pressure plate that looks just like your new one. Thus you have a pinto clutch setup and therefore need a pinto release bearing. Quote
Quinten Posted October 3, 2016 Author Posted October 3, 2016 Ah, you mean this one. Yes, that does indeed look a lot like mine Quote
Kingster Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Yep. But I'm really sorry for all the confusion! I figured that as I went from an MT75 to a type nine that my experience would be useful - then of course the fact that there's a variety of options available for completion of these items (despite them being "the same") just adds to the bafflement! 1 Quote
Quinten Posted October 5, 2016 Author Posted October 5, 2016 Another question. I've found this nifty fuel pump / swirl pot / sender from Land Rover and it even allows for a different depth of tank as the bottom part slides up/down to fit. Can anyone see a problem with using one of these inside my carb tank where I currently have the VDO sender (in the middle on the top)? I think I've come to the conclusion that this thing, although very nice, is not suitable for our application as it can not be secured to the tank without some kind of screw collar and locking tabs that OEM manufacturers have on their fuel tanks. Unless someone else can see some alternative way of mounting? Quote
Steve (sdh2903) Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 I've used a similar bmw unit in the past. Snug hole in the tank rubber gasket and a large aluminium ring to hold it in. 5/6 sealed end rivnuts and bolts. Will see if I have a pic somewhere. Very simple and never leaked Quote
Steve (sdh2903) Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 Not the best pic but hopefully you'll get the jist 1 Quote
Quinten Posted October 5, 2016 Author Posted October 5, 2016 Cheers! I was concerned about additional holes, but I suppose sealing the rivnuts would take care of that. Hmm, that gives me hope again Quote
Steve (sdh2903) Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 Before I fitted I'd contemplated getting an aluminium ring with threaded holes welded to the top of the tank to avoid unnecessary holes. But went with the closed end rivnuts and it was fine. Just beware of flushing the tank if you do drill it to get all the swarf out. 1 Quote
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