Quinten Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 23 hours ago, CraigHew said: What's rattling / vibrating? Damn you and your ears Paul @black st called me yesterday after I posted the video and told me if it was running on all cylinders? I had no idea, so after a chat, he kindly offered to come over today with his synchrometer and tools and see what was going on. After some diagnosing it looks like the coil pack is not working 100% of the time and most persistently, the spark in number 2 does not fire. We'd picked up a set of new sparks in the mean time but neither Halford or Eurocarparts had the coil pack in stock, so we had to leave it at that. But then I mentioned about the rattle (truth be told, I had heard it as well, but I wasn't sure if it was something or what it was) that @CraigHew may have been referring to. It was quickly diagnosed as the starter motor that fails to disengage after the engine is running. So... if you cast your mind back to last year where I struggled to decide if the clutch/flywheel I got with the engine was suitable... I think the answer is no. Am now angry at myself for running out of money at a time where it would have been easy to fix... but Paul reckons we can get the engine out and in again in a day once I've got the right gear. 1 Quote
KugaWestie Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 Damn that's annoying You should be able to pull the engine in a couple of hours, maybe 3 tops. Add another hour for refitting is my normal rule of thumb. Last time I pulled mine out in 90 minutes, but I have had a few goes now Quote
Thrustyjust Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 Did my crossflow in 45 minutes to pull out. Needless to say there was no interest in the coolant running down the drive.Ex Manifold off, fuel line off, alternator and starter off, engine mounts off, big mother beam in garage used and bellhousing bolts and on the floor it went. Carbs and everything else still attached. But no whizzy turbos or intercoolers in the way !! Quote
Kit Car Electronics Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 1 hour ago, Quinten Uijldert - Northants AO said: Damn you and your ears Paul @black st called me yesterday after I posted the video and told me if it was running on all cylinders? I had no idea, so after a chat, he kindly offered to come over today with his synchrometer and tools and see what was going on. After some diagnosing it looks like the coil pack is not working 100% of the time and most persistently, the spark in number 2 does not fire. We'd picked up a set of new sparks in the mean time but neither Halford or Eurocarparts had the coil pack in stock, so we had to leave it at that. But then I mentioned about the rattle (truth be told, I had heard it as well, but I wasn't sure if it was something or what it was) that @CraigHew may have been referring to. It was quickly diagnosed as the starter motor that fails to disengage after the engine is running. So... if you cast your mind back to last year where I struggled to decide if the clutch/flywheel I got with the engine was suitable... I think the answer is no. Am now angry at myself for running out of money at a time where it would have been easy to fix... but Paul reckons we can get the engine out and in again in a day once I've got the right gear. Q, @Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO has a spare Gen2 coil pack - we're using his Gen 1 pack for Scott's conversion - maybe you could get that one at a good price? Since the coil pack is wasted spark with cylinder 2&3 fired together, you could switch them over and check the problem moves to the other cylinder - or maybe you did that already? I presume your problem is a pinion to ring-gear spacing one? Maybe you can modify/swap your starter/ mount rather than having to pull the engine out? Quote
CraigHew Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 whilst inconvenient you'll feel better knowing all is well once fixed... Quote
Kingster Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 Quinten you can have the coilpack if you need it. Just cover postage. 2 Quote
Quinten Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 Got a coil pack coming tomorrow, courtesy of Amazon Prime (and no, I did not pay THAT much, they must have had it on a pricing error!) Have priced the rest up at Retro Ford, can anyone see anything missing, or offer cheaper better value for money options? Quote
Kingster Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 Mine doesn't use the pinto clutch. Rather the very early Mondeo 220mm one that (I believe) matches the flywheel you have linked. Quote
Quinten Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 Going by their description (see http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/content/zetec-rwd-flywheel-z015) it takes a Pinto clutch. Quote
Thrustyjust Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 Not sure I would worry about the spigot bearing. Its the same gearbox going on the same crankshaft in the same bearing you currently have. They 'can' be a a sod to get out and fit in and if its fine leave alone 1 Quote
Quinten Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 I wasn't sure if it was good form to replace it whilst it was easy to do. Will put it on the 'optional' shopping list Quote
Kit Car Electronics Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 What did I miss? Why do you need a flywheel and a starter motor? Don't you just need a starter motor that works with your current flywheel (whatever that is)? Quote
Quinten Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 Mike, the flywheel that came with the car is massively thick, which cause the release bearing to sit against the finger plates. That is one thing. The other thing is that the starter I have should be the correct starter. Without knowing what starter would work where would I go? I have already 2 starter motors on the shelf which where bought 'on the off chance' they'd fit. I agree it would be the simplest (cheapest) option, but even if I'd find one that would work ok, I still dont know if my clutch will work ok due to the distance mentioned above. Quote
Kit Car Electronics Posted April 1, 2017 Posted April 1, 2017 Hmm, not sure about the clutch, but that either works or it doesn't, surely? For starter motors, I'd contact Tom McCay for a suitable Wosp starter: http://www.amp-starters.co.uk/ - he's really helpful and will tell you the measurements you'll need (likely the bellhousing stepped ring diameter and distance from bellhousing face to ring-gear face). With a Wosp starter you get the added benefit of being able to rotate the solenoid to wherever you fancy. Just for reference, I have a silvertop 2.0l with a lightened 1.8l flywheel and a Type 9 box with RS2000 bellhousing. 15months ago Tom sorted me out with this: 1 x WOSP LMS261 - Morris Minor / Zetec raceline sump Reduction Gear Starter Motor WOSP LMS261 - Morris Minor / Zetec raceline sump Reduction Gear Starter Motor (LMS261) GBP 161.67 + GBP 32.33 VAT (20%) ----------------------------------------------------------- Shipping Standard Delivery - FREE - UK - Mainland excl Highlands & Islands GBP 0.00 + GBP 0.00 VAT (20%) ----------------------------------------------------------- Order Value = GBP 161.67 VAT = GBP 32.33 Total = GBP 194.00 (GBP = British Pounds) Quote
Quinten Posted April 1, 2017 Author Posted April 1, 2017 Cheers Mike, that same starter is now £273.60... I appreciate the suggestion, but my flywheel is a beast and a complete unknown I wouldn't be able to replace the clutch if I kept it, quite simply because the part doesn't seem to cross reference anything. We've been through the LUK catalogue trying to find a better combo, but came up empty. Quote
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