Dear Diary: My journey from Xflow to Zetec... Now definitely done!

[Quinten]

Yes, that's certainly possible, but the lack of swirl pot means fuel starvation is a serious concern.

[neptune]

Quinten are you sure the capacity of the swirl pot on the webcon type units is big enough for your new engine's needs? It looks pretty small and most standalone swirl pots i have been sizing up are circa 1L. I presume they are that big for a reason. Maybe only required for track use on long bends perhaps ?

[Quinten]

Well, the swirl pot is relatively small compared to the stand-alone units widely available on the internets. But it is embedded inside the fuel tank, and as such allows for a very neat installation (no external pumps or filters required). I'm sure a long bend on a track day with fuel below a certain level will still be a problem, but in my day to day driving back and forth to work I am hoping it isn't. After all, a V8 Discovery doesn't run out of fuel when cornering, so why would my teeny Zetec?

[Quinten]

Trial fitted the engine today and have more questions

The Zetec engine mount on the inlet side has a flat bottom, unlike the engine mount on my Xflow. Should there be a rubber between chassis plate and mount? What sort of height? Or is that dependent on the height of gearbox when mounted?

Also, the Xflow mount had a flat base with 2 fixings onto the chassis, but the Zetec only has one. Is that ok?

Then, the alternator seems awfully close to the chassis rail and brake pipe

but it looks like the mount of the alternator can be changed so it ends up lower, yet still maintaining tension on the belt. Does that sound right?

When holding the engine in (what we estimate to be) the final position it looks like

through the tunnel. Can anyone comment on that position and whether the propshaft/gearbox will overcome the diagonal?

[Thrustyjust]

Is that the right mount on the right side ? Yes, you need a rubber mount between the arm and the chassis. I would dry install a gearbox on the engine. Will give a better line to work by.

[Quinten]

It should be the right mount on the right side, as it has a hole for a sensor. It looks as follows

I can't install with gearbox at the moment as it is away being refurbished. Before I took it out I made a measuring block

to give me a sort of datum with regards to the bellhousing.

[Thrustyjust]

It looks too far forward. The bellhousing 'should' be just off the scuttle panel. What gearbox did you have in there ?

[Kingster]

It looks too far forward. The bellhousing 'should' be just off the scuttle panel. What gearbox did you have in there ?

That's correct on later chassis. But q's is older and tunnel won't accept the bellhousing hence the other knock-on effects like alternator position.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Was going to say, from the photo, it looks more like the narrow Type 9 chassis car than a later MT75 version.

Definitely too close with the alternator, a shorter belt and swinging it in might solve it, alternatively a smaller type alternator might be a better solution.

[Quinten]

Yes, my chassis is a 1998 SEW with Type 9 tunnel (no idea if that is a narrow Type 9, or a normal Type 9), and my bellhousing sits a lot further forward

A shorter belt sounds like an idea worth investigating. Am I right in saying that there is nothing special about the belt, other than length and width? It's not got to be a certain length? I've never changed a belt in my life, so no idea what the peculiarities are

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Yep, within limits, belts are just belts. The length, width and number of ribs, if it's a multi-ribbed type belt are the key things.

You'll find most manufacturers build the belt length into the part number, so once you've found the right "type" as far as width and number of ribs goes, it's just a question of looking for one with the right length in the pt no.

Or go to Halfords or similar and work your way down the rack!

One thing to remember, you have to fit the belt! I.e., the alternator needs enough swing left in its travel for you to get the belt on, before swinging it back out again to tension the belt.

[Thrustyjust]

 My pre-lit was earlier chassis and I fitted a type 9 to it. I had to cut the RS2000  bellhousing to allow it to go into the tunnel and cut out the rear chassis gearbox mount out and replaced it 4 inches further back or thereabouts. Seems really far forward to me in the photo. I think that shows by the engine mounts being so far forward. Just when you thought it would bolt straight in   

Alternator belts are easy to work out. Just put the alternator at the place you want it to be and use a piece of string around the pulleys and measure.  

[dombanks]

There should be a rubber engine mount there quinten. It's just bolted though the mount and through a hole on the chassis plate.

What have you got on the other side

[Quinten]

There should be a rubber engine mount there quinten. It's just bolted though the mount and through a hole on the chassis plate.

What have you got on the other side

I've not got anything yet for the exhaust side, although it looks like I can re-use my Xflow mount, by cutting the mounting plate off and weld a Zetec one on instead (thanks Paul for the tip!).

[dombanks]

It wouldn't surprise me.

I have the 2 piece mount on that side

http://parts-shop.westfield-sportscars.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=216&search=Zetec+mount

Rubber mount

http://parts-shop.westfield-sportscars.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=712&search=Engine+rubber