Quinten Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 any good ? http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=94_735 I reckon they are, cheers! Site bookmarked for tomorrow to compare against the real thing (I'll be the 1st to admit that my photos are crap ) Now for your next challenge Trying to find out which wire is what on my ignition barrel. I've got the Allegro column (19mm/48 spline), so I presume an Allegro ignition barrel? First position (from off) unlocks the steering lock, second position 'activates' the car and third (returns to second position) starts the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 The dash wiring looks okish from here but those blue and red aluminium crimps have to go. the 'House' connectors, as you say, are on my headlight connectors, don't know what they called either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisme Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Off the top of my head ... Brown is "live" power (always on), White/Red is to starter motor solenoid, White goes to Fuse box to supply power to "vital" things (fuel pump, ignition etc) whilst Green goes to the other fuse box for lights etc (I think - I did check this out on mine a while back but I can't find the piece of paper I wrote it down on !!), So lights will work at any time but fuel pump / ignition only when ignition switch is on and obviously starter only when turned to "start" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Cheers again. Hopefully armed with the above I should be able to confirm that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 So the plugs are indeed the ones from Autosparks, and I'm going to need 3x 5-way and 1x 7-way. Now I am just wondering which blade terminals I should be going for or + ? My plan is to put most of the 'gear' behind relays, so I think I'll only going to need 1mm2 thin-wall (16.5A) for the switches and instrument lighting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 The bottom type. With a decent crimper, and that doesn't necessarily mean a massively expensive one, "F" crimps like the bottom type will give good solid reliable crimps, time after time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Cheers Dave! As I'm completely starting from fresh, it's good to hear the voice of experience. Had already bookmarked a crimp tool previously recommended (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181460919306) on the forums (can't remember which thread it was though) which is hopefully a decent enough one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 Ok, I've been a dumb *rs and not paid much attention to the inidcator/hazard light situation and now it is all in bits, it's a bit of a mystery how the Westfield Self-Cancelling Indicator module, the hazard switch and the flasher relay(s) operate together... The self-cancelling module has 3 cables coming out of it 1) a pair of red and black, which are live (but is it permanent or ignition switched live?) and ground. This is the easy bit 2) a trio of wires; green/red + green/white, which are going into the indicator switch; and a red/black wire which is the common on the indicator switch. This I could still make out... 3) a trio of wires; green/red + green/white, which are connected to the tell tale light (both to a different leg, so I assume current flows either from green/red to the green/white, or the other way around?) and then a mysterious green/brown wire which according to my label connects to the hazard switch... but why? Does anyone have a clue? I suppose if anyone has the installation instructions for the self-cancelling module handy, then that may help already... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 Just had another thought, could the green/brown wire be (through the hazard switch) from the flasher relay? That would sort of make sense to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dombanks Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Off the top of my head ... Brown is "live" power (always on), White/Red is to starter motor solenoid, White goes to Fuse box to supply power to "vital" things (fuel pump, ignition etc) whilst Green goes to the other fuse box for lights etc (I think - I did check this out on mine a while back but I can't find the piece of paper I wrote it down on !!), So lights will work at any time but fuel pump / ignition only when ignition switch is on and obviously starter only when turned to "start" id sort of agree. brown is direct to battery, red white is starter white is to the fuses and the green is a switched or permanent live (things like the fan that may be controlled by a swtch but needed when ign is off) you could check the connections using a meter. see what continuity there is between stages of the key turn. if nothing between the brown and green then its a switched live, if there is then its a permanent live. quineten your assumption may be along the right line, the hazrd switch needs a permanent live connection so the flashers work when the ign is off. on my car dark green is permanent live cant remember the green brown, i think its to the flasher relay id need to check on a diagram. the green red and green white are for the LHS and RHS of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Yeah, I figured the ignition barrel wiring out already. I'm now only after the wiring instructions for the self-cancelling module from Westfield to confirm what I think it does... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dombanks Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 i found the indicators to be the most complicated bit of the wiring. although it became the most simple bit for me when i used a self cancelling motorbike type box as all of the hazard switch/relay etc was removed and replaced by 7 wires. 2x live 1 earth and 2 outputs and 2 inputs. i have also built a little loom that the original system can be used to implement the original system tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Don't find the indicators really that difficult, just the little black box without instructions... May have to resort to a bench test instead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 No-one got the instructions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 I reckon the above should take care of the hazards and the indicators. Any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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