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just started mazda SDV


daveq92

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thanks for all your answers ,I have now wrote an email to the IVA people after first trying to phone them with no luck and asked for clarification on whether I can use carbs and a stand alone ignition as long as it passes Cat 1 emission test, just waiting for reply.

in the meantime I am going to carry on with my method and if they say its ok all good if not I'll buy a scrapper pre 1995 and use the details from that.

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It is up to you to prove the age of the engine otherwise it will be tested to full bets limits. If you give them another logbook it won't match the engine number in the car, unless you swap the engines over aswell.

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well I haven't even checked the No's match on this one. I use to change engines all the time and not change them on the log book

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Hi all , I had a reply back from the IVA, just had to get it writing it  isn't because I didn't believe you Mark :) belt and braces lol

 

Hi David
Sorry for the delay in replying to your email. There is no requirement to have fuel injection fitted and vehicles are initially given a basis emission test.
Regards
Mick
Technical Officer
Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency | The Ellipse, Padley Road, Swansea, SA1 8AN

So all is good to go I think !

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They will still expect you to pass an emssions test though on the age of the engine. I may be wrong but you might struggle to get a carbed engine through IVA without a cat unless you make serious and potentially catastrophic fuelling changes!

 

It might be worth sticking with the injection until after the test, going for a Q plate and then doing the bike carbs after.

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Are carbs actually going to give any benefit over injection with the mazda plenum?

The mazda intake is very very good, hence why you see little gains with throttle bidies

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Are carbs actually going to give any benefit over injection with the mazda plenum?

The mazda intake is very very good, hence why you see little gains with throttle bidies

I am wondering the same thing really, surely carbs is a backward step? Bike throttle bodies would be better than carbs?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all,  I've been away for a break but back to it now and I'll answer your questions

1st  it will be bike carbs as I have said in earlier posts sorry for any confusion just wrote carbs in the later post 2nd the reason I am using this method is when I sourced the cams I had a few options but after chatting to Kiel at Kelford cams I decided to go for the more fruity option which would not be compatible with fuel injection. Hope this answers your questions guys.

 

So back to my build ill be stripping the engine and sending the head away to be sorted ready for fitting the cams and uprated springs while its away I do a little painting on the block and also send the sump away as every build I read seem to lower this so ill go with the flow.   

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Dave are you using the aluminium steering rack mount kit? I've just put mine in this weekend and the passenger side mount has quite a bit of play in it. Does yours bolt down OK?

 

20140913_181018.jpg

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Hi yes I am but wrapped a 1mm piece of rubber round both ends and also used a bit copper slip to ease the ally brackets on, I have some spare if you PM your address I'll post it you mate. :)

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There are supposed to be 2 plastic spacers that sit under the rack and then there is no play.

 

You can't leave it like that.

 

Find out where your spacers are and fit them sir!

 

CM

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There are supposed to be 2 plastic spacers that sit under the rack and then there is no play.

 

You can't leave it like that.

 

Find out where your spacers are and fit them sir!

 

CM

 

It came with the spacers. The drivers side fitted and is clamped down well, it's just the passenger side it seems to be too thin. Will make a thicker one I think and try the rubber strip.

 

Thanks.

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There do seem to be issues with the fit of some billet type clamps. So far I've only seen it in respect of Rally Design clamps, though.

 

It may well have been a batch with poor tolerances, as some have been way too small, others way too loose.

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Random thought:

 

Just bear in mind that as you move the rack up and down in the clamp, you will affect the bump steer.

 

You should really measure the bump steer at this point, and then slot the holes in the clamp mount or spacer the rack up/down in order to dial it out to as close to zero as possible.

 

Concentrate on the area +/- 3" from parallel wishbones.

 

I would have thought Westfield would have this down pat now - but ALL the (around 10) Westfield's I've owned or set up (another 10?) have needed moving. On a pre lit you have to cut the rack mounts off and weld them back quite away up iirc.

 

CM

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Hi all, A question for all those in the know with mx 5 build, has anyone bought a long range fuel tank from anywhere other than westfield if so can will you let me know please.

 

regards Dave

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