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Found 13 results

  1. Chris Broster - Bristol & Bath AO

    Wild idle on Zetec Blacktop

    Hello collective brain, I am struggling to get this pesky westfield back on the road after my fuelling/ignition issues. I too had this fault with my 1.8 Zetec - died on track at Castle Coombe - fixed in pits then spluttered on track so binned it. ed on track so binned it. Sadly died again and had to be recovered home After checking all electrics and fuel etc etc worked again? But then failed on M5 heading to Stoneleigh.... Same thing as you with spluttering and coughing then run down. I did however find that one bolt from the throttle linkage mounting was missing on the ITB and this was causing the linkage to swing when accelerator pushed. Great service from Jenvey - replacement free and next day delivery. I have now... Replaced fuel pump with new Walbro one from Glencoe - Speak to Terry, great service https://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/ (Actually, higher spec for less) Fitted new Sytec in-line fuel filter - again from Glencoe Replaced all hoses with new Cohline fuel lines - Glencoe Checked all relays are working when and how intended - pre-ignition and ignition  Checked all fuses Checked all Earth connections - removed, cleaned and refitted. Refitted vacuum pipe to Fuel Pressure Regulator Replaced all spark plugs and checked for spark etc Checked injectors are firing ok. The result so far is that the car now starts and runs but is currently ticking over at 3000! This has been adjusted down from 4000 by winding in the throttle cable seat (result of reattaching the throttle linkage). So now it is firing again my remaining issue is that on start it races up to 3000 rpm and if I blip the throttle or accelerator pedal it rises but then settles back at 3000? Engine is 1.8 Zetec Blacktop with Jenvey ITB and MBE ECU. I have tried winding the throttle cable to absolute slack and no joy. I tried, gently, lifting the throttle linkage back to try to 'back it off'. The best this did was drop revs by 200? As soon as took pressure off it went back to 3000 plus? I’ll try to upload video of start, revving and fall back to idle. I haven't messed with ECU since it was mapped at InterPro in April. The only thing I think of left to check/change is Throttle Position Sensor. Anyone got any experience, ideas, Jenvey set up instructions or 'how to set idle guides'? Cheers Chris
  2. jonjh1964

    Blacktop Newman Phase 2 Camshafts

    After 6 years of ownership I decided that I needed some more power without breaking the bank. The engine is a standard Zetec Blacktop, Jenvey TBs, ARP bolts, TTV lightweight flywheel and had been mapped by NMS which included a ‘swing’ to get the best out of the standard camshafts. After discussions with Troy at NMS and my local area members I decided upgraded camshafts was the way ahead. I didn’t want to have to do any further work on the internals and also wanted usable power for day to day driving so choose Newman Phase 2 camshafts. The final decision was largely because at around £600 with vernier pulleys, they were a fair bit cheaper than other makes. Fitting them was straight forward as they are timed to the standard pin and bar Ford timings. I checked and reshimmed the lifters, removing the camshafts rather than getting hold of the special tool and also replaced the camshaft seals, cambelt, pulley and tensioner. Newman’s installation instructions states that it’s not necessary to do any set ‘run-in’ but I decided that the standard 2k/20 mins was easy enough to do and took advice that it was good practice. The next step was a trip to NMS which was quite disappointing, a modest increase in power below 4K but then a significant drop in power. After lots of head scratching, adjustments and testing to rule out other potential causes I decided to call it a day and retired to contemplate. The following weekend I removed the TBs, the only thing left after all the diagnostics at NMS, and found that the gasket had melted and been sucked into the manifold and was significantly restricting cylinders 1&4. After discussions with Malcolm (Dorset’s motor engineering guru) I replaced the gasket with on from Burton Power. After a run out it was obvious that the engine was now producing more power so I booked another visit to NMS. After a month’s wait the second visit to NMS was yesterday. Once the car was warmed up Troy started with a power run that confirmed that all was well. After an hour or so of fettling of the fuel and ignition maps he declared all was good and printed out a comparison of pre and post camshafts (also a new non-cat exhaust) Very pleased with the results, Troy’s verdict was that Piper 285s would have given a few more bhp at the top end but not as much torque at the bottom. All in all an enjoyable upgrade to fit, expanding my engineering experience and a reasonable increase in performance for the ~£1200 ‘investment’. However, the original ‘trigger’ was a feeling that I needed some more power was more to losing 15-20 horses due to the inlet restrictions so if I’d found that first I might have got away with only spending £35 on a new gasket. When it comes to bragging rights with a car that weighs in at 615kgs It’s now over the magic 300bhp/ton.
  3. GaryD1971

    Fuelling system?

    Hi all. I'm at the stage in my build where I'm starting to look at the fuelling system and it's a bit of a mare to be honest. I dumped the 1.4 cvh in favour of an 1800 blacktop which came with the injection system but no ECU. This is not going to fit for the obvious size reasons. I can't decide whether to ditch the original injection for throttle bodies and aftermarket ecu, keep the original injection and modify the steering mechanism to allow the manifold to fit whilst fitting an aftermarket ecu, or try to fit a standard ecu to the standard injection. Bike carbs won't be an option due to the difficulty getting through the IVA emissions test. I'm also working to quite a tight budget. Would be interested to hear the collectives thoughts on the options available, or any that I have missed /not thought of. Thanks.
  4. chris parkin

    Backtop raceline sump gasket

    I've had a leak on the engine over the weekend, stripped the sump to find the raceline sump gasket with a section missing. Fortunately I've found it and I'm certain there's nothing missing so been extremely lucky on that one. Obviously not sure if I've nipped the seal on the way in and caused the damage or if it's been a dodgy gasket, but either way when I ordered last time it took nearly two weeks to arrive from raceline. My question is, does the standard gasket work or is this a raceline specific part? I have just phoned Ford and they want £65+VAT for a replacement which is outrageous and if I can't gaurentee fitment I'm not taking the risk. what are my options?
  5. WESTFIELD SeiW WIDEBODY 2.0 Litre FORD ZETEC - Factory Built in year 2000. Due to a change in circumstance I am offering for sale this amazing machine. (Upgraded from original 1.8 Lt Zetec to new 2.0 Lt Zetec in 2011 – all properly documented.) Original private registration number plate W7 WSC (Westfield Sports Cars) included. Currently fitted with aero-screen, but could easily be converted back to windscreen/hood. Spectacular looking car in it’s original Westfield Chrome Yellow with removable carbon stripes. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Great Specification includes: Westfield SeiW Factory Built and registered in 2000 and on it’s original private plate W7 WSC. Current car mileage 30,200 & MOT tested until April 2018. Engine mileage approximately 11,000. Wide Body in original Chrome Yellow gel coat with removable Carbon Effect stripes & graphics. Fitted Westfield locking “V8” vented bonnet with added safety spring clips. Fitted Carbon Effect front side winglets on nose cone. 4” Headlights & Carbon Effect front indicators. Carbon Effect front cycle-type mudguards and rear arch stone guards. Carbon Effect aero-screen, cockpit side rail caps & side mirrors. Carbon Effect rear light clusters, reverse light & rear fog light. Fitted LED stop/tail light bulbs & number plate lights. Carbon Effect boot aperture cover panel. RAC style roll-over bar with fitted high-level LED brake light. Original Westfield seats & Willans full harness seat belts. Original Westfield dash with added super bright LED indicator reminder lights. New Moto-Lita “Race Car” 12” leather rim steering wheel with polished spokes. New Ripspeed polished alloy gear knob. Ford 2.0 Litre Zetec engine new & fitted in 2010 as an upgrade from the original 1.8 Litre. Raceline alloy wet sump, sump breather oil catch tank, Jenvey throttle bodies & Pipercross air filter. Nose mounted battery with external connector for included “C TEK” battery conditioner. Original Westfield stainless 4-branch exhaust manifold. Westfield MOT safe silencer with internal catalytic converter & pierced alloy heat shield. Omex 600 ECU installed new & set up in 2011 by Northampton Motorsport. Graph & Readouts showing 167bhp on Northampton Motorsport’s rolling road. Great, sporty (legal) noises from both inlet & exhaust! Gearbox is a 5-speed Ford Type 9. Independent rear suspension with Ford Sierra Differential. Drilled & grooved brake discs with yellow callipers & recent Mintex M1144 “Roadsport” pads all round. Stainless braided brake hoses all round. Recently rebuilt suspension all round, with Gaz adjustable shocks & all new ball joints & bushes. 15 inch Westfield alloys with very good 195/50 Toyo Proxos R888 tyres. Can of tyre sealant/inflator as spare wheel is not fitted – parts included to replace if required. Lots of documentation, including original correspondence & purchase receipts for the car & registration number, all MOT’s, engine certificates of newness and receipts for pretty much all of the work done, or parts fitted to the car since it was new. Original windscreen, wiper motor, mirrors, spare wheel, spare wheel rack, boot insert & steering wheel included, along with a few other random spares. MOT tested until April 19th 2018. Asking price £9850 but would welcome serious offers. Price reflects a factory built car, in great condition and history with Westfield Sports Cars "WSC" plate included. ---------------------------------------------------------------------
  6. chris parkin

    Blacktop alternator/starter motor wiring

    Morning all, its been a while since I took the cables off and I didn't take a picture. Can anyone help with the correct location for both starter and alternator? Additionally, on the starter motor end, where does the earth from the chassis bolt to? Is it through the bell housing caphead bolt or to the hex head that goes into the block?
  7. Hi Guys, I am new to the forum so please bear with me if this question has come up again. I have a Westfield SEW fitted with an MT75 Gearbox which I have owned for 18 months. I am in the process of replacing a Ford 1.8L Zetec Silvertop Engine (burning oil) with a brand new Ford 2.0L Blacktop unit. In the process of doing so, I have noticed the flywheel is heavily exposed at engine / bell housing interface (See photos below). I want to shield this when I fit the my engine to prevent grit, dirt and water getting into my new clutch / flywheel assembly. Having done some literature search, I understand a sandwich plate was available through the Ford Dealer network (FINIS 6559240) but having contacted my local dealer, it appears that this has been discontinued. I am looking for advice on whether you are aware of any other place to source such a sandwich plate ? If not new, even a second hand one that I can recondition? Ofcourse last resort would be to make one up, but I would prefer to avoid flaffing around making templates and cutting sheet metal. Any ideas? Thank you.
  8. Wingnuts Dad

    Fit Blacktop head to Silvertop 2L Zetec

    Can anyone advise please? I have a 2L Zetec, an early version purchased in 1998 from Raceline. The head is described as a Silvertop and it is standard, casting number 958MR-6090-CC on exhaust face. I wish to fit a later Blacktop which I have, casting number XS76090AC. The later head has marginally larger valves and will be the basis for further mods. Externally the heads do look very similar but not identical and nothing that can't be modified to suit I think. However are the water ways, oil ways etc the same? Has anyone undertaken this alteration and aware of any problems please?
  9. 7heaven

    2.0 Blacktop Engine parts

    For sale are a series of Blacktop 2.0 Zetec used parts in good condition. My original plan was to recondition and tune the engine, but instead I bought a complete, new unit, so all these parts are now surplus to requirements. (Prices in Brackets are the current new prices at Burton Motorsport) Blacktop Raceline Sump - Exhaust side starter motor £250 (£532) Sold to CRAIG R Blacktop Raceline Water rail - including fitting kit and thermostat & housing - £150 (£285) Sold to Kernow Still for Sale Starter Motor -Exhaust side £50 (£156) Flywheel & Clutch assembly £50 ( ) Blacktop Rocker cover £20 Ignition Coil Pack and leads £30 (£80) Cylinder head & Std Cams £100 (£160 surcharge for cylinder exchange, Cams ??) Block, rods, pistons & crank - make an offer Currently all the remaining bits are bolted together, but I am not selling it as a 'runner' - just as spares or for reconditioning. If you want all the rest of it, it's yours for £200 - collection only from Norfolk please. (Happy to post bits) Any questions please PM me. Thanks Jason
  10. BabyBlue

    2.0 Zetec Blacktop Wanted

    Blacktop zetec 2.0 wanted in good running order.
  11. Aerodynamix Ltd

    Rocker Cover

    Wanted : Silvertop and Blacktop Rocker Covers for Zetec and bolts used for centre , condition unimportant even damaged , or a borrow if you have a spare one .
  12. Terryathome

    Piston Ring Gaps

    Je pistons with pro seal rings in Blacktop brand new engine. The JE info advises bore X 0.004 for the ring gaps which = 0.015" for top ring and 2nd ring is slightly bigger, but I have been advised to use 0.010" for top and 2nd ring. Oil ring is standard 0.015" whatever the application so that's not an issue. So what do you think, anybody done ring gaps and what have you set yours at? It’s all down to the spec of the engine and the heat generated/expansion. No guesses with this thread please as engine damage is on the books if I don't get this right. Need someone who has done this and can advise of the results. Terry
  13. Terryathome

    Supercharging 2.0 Blacktop

    I now have the engine bits to supercharge my new engine but will be doing it in 2 stages Stage 1 1. Strip new engine and install steel con rods with ARP 2. Install new forge JE pocket pistons (aiming for cr about 11:1) might need to skim head but will have to work that one out. 3. Port & polish head (bolt back on using ARP studs) 4. Install new up rated Ginneta cams, specially designed to be the most extreme you can get without changing the cylinder head internals 5. Fit low sump from 1.8 engine 6. Fit throttle bodies from 1.8 engine 7. Fit flywheel/clutch from 1.8 engine 8. Install 3.62 LSD 9. And anything else that I have missed of the list above to get the car back on the road. 10. Get the engine mapped so I can run the engine in That’s stage 1 complete and i'm back on the road with hopefully 190bhp ish. Trying to complete this in time for the good weather May/June? When funds allow buy the remaining bits 11. Supercharger mounting bracket (I already have Rotrex C30-94 supercharger) just need the mounting bracket and the oil cooler Oh and the intercooler 12. New exhaust 13. New ECU (hoping for Omex 600) Anybody got one cheap? loom wouldn't go a miss as well 14. Small alternator 15. Fit all of the above, maybe August by the time when i have all the bits together. 16. Get her going and run the supercharger in 16. Rolling road here I come. BHP? anything between 250 & 300, I think the lower end will do fine Stage 2 competed Maybe new gearbox when I’ve broken the MT75 lol Now if you can help me (with pictures) of the intercooler mounting and the oil cooler in the front nose cone that would be more than helpful. I know it’s going to be tight fitting these in the nose cone but there must be a best way to install these bits. Regards Terry
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