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  1. BillyPee

    BillyPee

    WSCC Member with Mag


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  2. Sparkymart

    Sparkymart

    WSCC Member with Mag


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  3. Mark (smokey mow)

    Mark (smokey mow)

    WSCC Member with Mag


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  4. pistonbroke

    pistonbroke

    WSCC Member with Mag


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 16/09/18 in all areas

  1. Got to the bottom of it (we think). The car was turning over and there was definitely spark. It wanted to start but just never kept got/kept going. With it working 100% the weekend before, we put it down to bad fuel, low fuel pressure, blockage, etc. Yesterday we checked and set the FPR to 3 PSI (it was 1.5 PSI), but that made no difference. All the filters (tank to pump, FPR, carbs) were clean so not that. Ran fresh fuel from a can but that made no difference either. Continued head scratching. Swapped out the new spark plugs for the old ones and... it fired up immediately. I had used NGK Iridium spark plugs for the first time and it has been running on them a couple of weeks ago but the old BRP7ES plugs seem to be what the engine prefers. Strange as the iridium plus were sparking against the head, just must not have been strong enough. Oh well, another lesson learnt.
    4 points
  2. There was only time for a few small jobs this weekend but that was enough to prime and paint all the parts and then complete the final assembly. This is everything that makes up the rear axle. And then fully assembled
    3 points
  3. I did the WSCC private track day organised by @Tom (T3OMF) - Cotswolds AO at Llandow on Friday with the Mini, and have to say thoroughly enjoyed it. The new front brakes were absolutely spot on, and the weight saving definitely helped. I found a bit more to save today as well, I removed the under bonnet sound deadening as well as the cabin pollen filter, netting me a further 1.1kg. Total saving now 76.55kg
    2 points
  4. I did indeed. You guys with your roof and heater... Sheesh... Terry - yes, short course and the viewing was limited but the main point was being able to establish an event here on closed roads. I think a lot has been learned and things can be built on. A good day out in an area of the country that needs a boost.
    2 points
  5. And you Keith did you make it home without the roof off? But it was a lovely setting for a hill climb
    2 points
  6. Great to meet you Martin, Adge and John... So who was the foolish one who arrived with top down? Oh, wait, that was me!
    2 points
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
  9. Let's hope the October meeting is a fine and dry one so you can bring the result of all your hard work. We can then admire your efforts.
    2 points
  10. Cracking event @Tom (T3OMF) - Cotswolds AO, many thanks for organising
    2 points
  11. MoT time for my Z3 2.2i Sport today, and I had a brief word with the tester beforehand on the matter of the rubbish BMW hand brakes, and he agreed. Good start. Later, he comments that the rear suspension is very similar to his E36 Compact and this starts a conversation about handling and track days during which I mention my Westfield. A few minutes go by while he tries to wrench the wheels off my car, then he says "what engine has your Westfield got then?" "Pinto" says I. Turns out he's restoring a Mk2 Escort with a 2.0l Pinto, twin 40s, Maxflow head, 205 block, and FR32 cam - exactly the spec of my Pinto engine. We're firm friends by now! The upshot is a pass with no advisories which I put down completely to the magic of Westfield ownership - by proxy. Hats in the air time!
    1 point
  12. So, after breaking down on the way back from Shelsey Walsh a while back, and having just been made redundant and starting a new job, I'd left the westie in the garage not daring to see what had happened... after a few wild goose chases, the distributor was found to be siezed, causing the drive to shear... sump off and gave it a good checking over....rescuing all the bits of drive in the process. Cam looked unscathed, took off the oil pump housing to ensure all good there too. poured some cheap 10-40 down through the galleries and then cleaned it all up. Sump cleaned and refitted, along with inlet manifold and carbs. Distributor rebuilt by h & h ignition....can recommend those guys btw. new alternator, coil, and ignition module too. timed at 12 btdc and dizzy lined up with no1. a few turns with the plugs out to get the oil pressure up and then plugs in and she fired up on the 3rd spin, so well chuffed. Turned the dizzy round a few degrees to find the fastest idle once warmed up and jobs a goodun.....so far. need to get the timing checked at 5000rpm but relieved so far...only time will tell though. annoyed I missed all the nice weather but other things took priority. Also a shame as there's a new AO locally who is keen as by the looks of things. looking forwards to taking it out again...either this year or next spring. Mart.
    1 point
  13. A good day, thanks for your company guys. Rain stopped when I left Newquay. Somewhat damp with a couple of downpours befor Exeter, sunshine when I got back to Somerset Bar/cafe viewpoint very civilised. For me the 5cylinder Audi powered 4 wheel drive Mini was a great piece of Cornish ingenuity! Good entry list all round though.
    1 point
  14. Indeed you can Mark, PM me your details and I will sork out the postage for you tomorrow. Cheers Tiggs
    1 point
  15. Hey Syman, Yep no probs, PM me your address and I will work out the postage for you tomorrow - okey dokey? Tiggs
    1 point
  16. Great day out, a first visit for myself. After breakfast over to the hill clime, kept trying to rain, but stayed away
    1 point
  17. Well, if you're going to get deep in to a Haynes manual, you'll need some tools... HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and jackets. ELECTRIC DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in the bodywork, just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VICE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting light to various flammable objects in your garage. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a live axle/stub axle you're trying to get the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes. PILLAR DRILL: A tall, upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whirls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouc...." HYDRAULIC JACK: Used for lowering a car to the ground after you have installed your new front brake set-up, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front chassis EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of earth straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night or in a garage. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Snap-On Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Sindelfingen, and rounds them off. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. One of the advantages of joining them is the Halfords trade card for those of you who haven't got one. Discounts from Halfords arn't as good as they were 2 years ago but anything is a help and you can get your £12 nwkcog money back in one trip.
    1 point
  20. It can. The main approach people seem to take, if they do anything, is to either drill Speed holes () with a good size hole cutter in a row across the back of the tub, above the diffuser. (Mainly track nails, and outright competition cars, to be fair). Or, the really neat alternative I’ve seen a few do, is to space the rear of the diffuser down a little, so that there’s say a half inch gap between the bottom of the tub and the top of the diffuser. It looks discrete and neat, that way. To my mind, the better way, would be to give the under floor area the proper treatment, and panel in the tunnel from below, along with as much of the engine bay as possible, aiming for as flat a floor as the lowered floor pans, if you have them, allows. At the same time, you could borrow Caterham approach to heat managmenent in the tunnel, with the big Duratec engined CSR’s, and fit a closing plate either side of the tunnel entrance in the engine bay, that closed off much of the gap between gearbox and tunnel - they don’t have to be anything like a perfect fit to the box/bellhousing etc. you’re just aiming to limit the air getting past. That way, you avoid the balloon effect completely, and at the same time feed somewhat smoother airflow into the diffuser. One point I’d make though, is that the Seven shape is very prone to front end lift, in excess of rear end lift. (I’m not for one second saying with simple mods alone, you will achieve downforce, but you may well reduce lift!!) just be careful that you don’t make the proportion of lift front to rear worse than it already tends to be. Personally, I’d always want to add the front end splitter to the nose cone, before adding a rear diffuser, in the vague hope it might keep the balance, somewhat!
    1 point
  21. Snap me to and I didn't wash the Westy today as that normally causes it to rain as soon as I leave the house . See you tomorrow
    1 point
  22. I've popped my hood on, that normally means it will stay dry!
    1 point
  23. Love the ad mate....your enthusiasm really comes through..... pics would be a bonus IMHO. two problems...a narrow and too old school for most, although being a narrow x flow powered owner, they don't know what there missing! good luck with the sale if you go through with it. Mart.
    1 point
  24. Last price drop to £2250 This is a good strong engine and would be excellent for road use. It also has the plug and play ME221 harness, engine coil pack and the ecu has the map, so would be an easy install. The reason for the sale is I'm changing to a crossflow for age and class structure.
    1 point
  25. Oh yes, impromptu Rolling road today and the lovely blast down to in-laws in Yeovil chasing the sun! What Westys are made for.
    1 point
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