Jump to content

Mark (smokey mow)

WSCC Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Mark (smokey mow)

  1. Final picture for the day before I zipped the car back in its Carcoon .
  2. I'd also had the steel plates for the engine cradle fabricated so these were temporarily bolted to the engine and dropped in the back of the car so I could take the measurements for the gear change linkage. While the engine was in the car I also took the oportunity to cut the hole in the fire wall for the gear change rod. There was some trial and error to work out where to drill the firewall, but with some guess work and a couple of attempts the right centre spot was found, before the pilot hole was opened up to its final diameter. The grommet is made from an old off cut of mountain bike inner tube :D sandwiched by a small aluminium collar.
  3. On to the upper firewall next, and again this was just a simple case of forming a couple of bends and then fitting into place. A few weeks ago I'd made a mock-up from carboard so I could fettle it exactly to follow the contours of the upper body and then I transfered the co-ordinate data into a CAD drawing so I could get it cut from aluminium at the same time as the other parts. Wheels and graphics also added. I haven't fitted the number roundels to the engine cover yet as this still needs fettling for the roll bar backstay and the cylinder head.
  4. Another order from the laser cutters arrived just in time for for the weekend. whilst I could have bought a battery cradle and saved myself some time, having my own laser cut from Aluminium works out at 1/10th of the price and just needed a few folds to shape. The spare is for the other JW4. And mounted to the firewall behind the seat. That photo also highlighted that I'd missed a rivet out when fitting the fire wall.
  5. Welcome to the club Olley i thought the column was escort as the allegro ones are generally secured with a bolt rather than a nut? Either way it probalby doesn't matter if you're looking to upgrade to a detachable wheel as with these the top of the column is cut off and a replaced with a welded on slug for the new boss. There was no taller screen option for the early cars, they only came in one height so if you want to go higher then you'll likely need to get something custom made. I'd suggest looking at the seats instead to sit yourself lower in the car, removing the runners if you have them will gain you a few inches or alternatively look at some of the fibreglass shell type seats such as Tillet or JK.
  6. Mines the vice brake, it makes bending small metal parts so much easier.
  7. If I was to spend £75K on any sevenesque car I'd at least expect it to be road legal, that's a pretty big wedge to be spending on a trackday toy.
  8. Wheels collected from the tyre fitters earlier today. With wheel sizes having grown quite considerably sine the 1960's its actually quite difficult to find somewhere that still has machinary that can fit tyres to 10" rims, most I spoke to locally can only go down to 13".
  9. Although the weather outside hasn't been too favourable for working on cars over the last couple of weekends I've still managed to make a small amount more progress, this time with the headrest. in the traditional fashion, i started with a bit of wood... Well technically it's an off cut of oak from when I built my staircase several years ago but the thickness was just right for the job. I don't have a wood lathe but after getting it roughly to the right size with a saw I could then mount it in the metal lathe to turn to the final diameter. A quick sand to smooth the edges off and then several coats of paint later. Meanwhile, while the paint was drying I made the vinyl pad on the sewing machine. and then a bracket made for mounting it to the chassis. and finished
  10. another one I've found for the collection Kit Cars International article on the Westfield SP SP.pdf
  11. Do you know the names of any of the previous owners or is the any clues about its past in the cars documents?
  12. Front uprights look like sierra which would suggest the car is probably a Sierra SDV. If so the bodywork would be ZK but with extra wide rear arches.
  13. Is There any particular reason for wanting to use a pillow block bearing on the column? Or would a rose joint be easier to fit in that space?
  14. Can you give a bit more detail and i might be able to offer a few suggestions. What type of felt do you have? What is the depth of the rafters? Is headroom in the loft room currently an issue or likely to become an issue?
  15. Hi Kevin, I'll give the quick short answer first and that is to say that yes, all kitchens to new build houses require extract ventilation to the outside, although I will correct Geoffrey slightly in to say that it doesn't necessarily have to be by mechanical means. Part F (Ventilation) of the Building Regulations and more specifically Approved Document F 2013 splits ventilation of new dwellings into 4 systems which i shall try to briefly summarise. System 1 - Background ventilators and intermittent extract fans System 2 - Passive Stack Ventilation System 3 - Continuous Mechanical Extract System 4 - Continuous Mechanical Supply and Extract With Heat Recovery System 1 is probably the most familiar to a lot of people as it is bar far the most common fitted to buildings whereby background ventilation for the management of fresh air and control of condensation is typically provided by trickle vents, whilst purge ventilation for the removal of odours and water vapour is achieved through the use of extract fans to all wet areas (kitchens, bathrooms, toilets, utility etc). With system 1 mechanical extract ventilation to the kitchen would be achieved either by uses of a fan rated at a minimum of 60l/s installed anywhere within the room or alternatively via a cooker extract hood rated at a minimum of 30l/s. System 2 Passive stack ventilation uses the natural pressure difference of air moving over the roof of the house to draw air out from the building through a series of passive ducts. Ducts with an internal diameter of 125mm are installed to all the "wet areas" whilst the infiltration air is supplied via trickle vents. I see this most often in social housing schemes. System 3 as you'd expect is a constantly running extract fan system comprising of a centralised fan unit with ducts to each of the "wet areas" although the kitchen may use its own extract hood rather than the centralised system. Ventilation to the wet areas is normally linked to humidistats so having a high/low extract rating. As with System 2 the infiltration air is provided by trickle vents. In 15 years of doing this job I can't recall ever seeing a system 3 install. System 4 is probably the second most common method of ventilating a dwelling and much more likely seen in more "high end" properties and flats etc where external noise can be a problem and it's less likely to be opening a window. I'd expect to see your kitchens going in more new houses with this ventilation system than those having system 1. With a system 4 a centralised MVHR ventilation system is installed running continuously and constantly changing the air within the building. The centralised system has both supply and extract grills to the outside of the building, drawing the fresh air in and then expelling the stale air back out again. The fresh air is delivered through ducts to the habitable rooms (bedrooms, living rooms), circulated through the house and then extracted from the "wet areas". Like system 3 humidistats are used to provide a high/low system but unlike system 3 the warm air being expelled is passed across a heat exchanger to pre-warm the incoming air. As the MVHR unit provides supply air there is no need to trickle vents with the system and this type of property probably also wouldn't require a cooker extract hood. Hopefully you're still following by this point!!! Which system of ventilation is ultimately installed will depend on a few factors; the clients brief, architect suggestion or a need to achieve a particular energy rating for the building so as to comply with building regulations. As a kitchen supplier is it reasonable to expect you to know which system the builder has been designed for? I would say absolutely not. Of the 4 different systems I outlined NONE specifically require an extract hood to be installed over the hob and only two of them would require a cooker extract hood to be fitted if the building ventilation system itself is not extended into the kitchen. IMO it would be the responsibility of the principle contractor or the project manager to provide their suppliers and subcontractors with sufficient detail about the design and construction of the building as part of their brief or order. It's not for you to second guess the design and make provision, particularly if as can be seen above it may not even be required. Sorry that explanation didn't end up quite as brief as I was hoping for
  16. Kev, give me a call in the office on 01206 282431 if you want I'll be in till 4:30 or i can type a long reply later tonight.
  17. I've not used them myself but I've read good things on other forums about Boss Racing near Brands Hatch. http://www.boss-racing.co.uk/services/
  18. I can't see where you are but I've used both Graham Hathaway Racing in Maldon and more recently AB Performance in Suffolk for corner weighting and Geo.
  19. I believe the screen pillars might be different though due to the different scuttle profiles.
  20. A little update today as after a 3-month wait (yes really!) I finally collected the wheels from the painters. Things didn't go exactly to plan for them as after two failed attempts at powder-coating they eventually 2-pack painted them as they were having issues with the finish bubbling during baking. We suspect it was some residue left behind from media blasting the original 1968 paint off as there was some soft gunge left behind in the corners of the webs that had to be cleaned out by hand but they didn't want to risk a third attempt at powder-coating hence why they sprayed them. To be fair to Impact Coatings though they honoured the original price we agreed which was actually from a quote they'd given me three years ago.
  21. One more for your archive Scott SE & SEI Price List.pdf
  22. I've a couple from various years, I'll try to dig them out and scan for you.
  23. What does the flange look like on the back of the nose where it locates to the bonnet? Is it a long flat flange or does it return downwards so the front of the bonnet locate with two small pins into grommets? Edit: have you looked at my bodywork FAQ?
  24. I used a combination of M6 studs and M6 nuts so they would be easily removable.
  25. A day off work today gave me a chance to complete another couple of jobs. First task was to make a bracket for the throttle cable. The new master cylinders I'm using have a taller reservoir compared to the original parts which meant they would fet in the way of the throttle cable run to the pedal. The easiest solution was to make a bolt on extension bracket for the oringal mounting that would raise the mounting slightly so it would clear the top of the master cylinder. The other job for the day was fitting the windscreen. I'd had some screen blanks made recently by the laser cutters from perspex but these needed to be formed to the correct shape. I'd been hoping to use the oven but the blanks were slightly too big to fit so I had to resort to using the paint stripper gun to soften the perspex. Once softened sufficiently it was laid over a curved former that I'd made using hardboard and then left to cool. (Sorry for the lack of pictures from this process).
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.