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So far in 2 weeks of ownership. LED rear lights Team Dynamics with Toyo proxy Removeable steering wheel boss (Sparco) (makes it sooo much easier to get in and out of) Re wire O/S headlight as previous owner cut the connector off the harness (what the devil why would anyone do that) Left to do. Replace bonnet catches. The standard Westfield OE dont "lock" down and spring up. I guess they have been badly fitted. Purchased Aerocatch for the rear and a stainless latch for the front. Replace boot box. Previous owner cut the original into 3 pieces with strips of ally pop rivited and Dzus fasteners to remove a central panel above diff. Purchased a black one as new of ebay at the weekend (will be along another day for advice about measuring and cutting for the roll bar) At the same time as number 2 fit the 4 point harnesses as there isnt much room for me to get the seat belt done up. Ride height as per my other post Front and rear discs and pads Fronts being done on Saturday. Fit USB charger for phone for SATNAV Loose weight!!!

A snap from this week.... ...picking up my (first) Westy on Saturday, garage prepared with bigger work bench, fluorescent lighting, laminate floor and worked out how to get everything either under the bench or off the ground level. Can't wait to start work on it!

So my westfield has been with me a couple of months now, so the last couple of weeks have been enjoying running round in it, making the most of the decent weather. Still had time to do a few small jobs, including rehanging the exhaust with new rubber bobbin and clamps, and fitting a new horn button as the old toggle switch just to the right of the steering wheel was all to easy to knock when turning the wheel! Also added a "powered by Ford" badge at the rear, which was looking a bit stark without the spare wheel on it. Small things but each little bit does seem to improve the car!

"Wheels. That popping sound you hear, is the sound of a can of worms opening! If only it was as straight forward as that! It isn’t, I’m afraid." I thought it was the Gel coat on the wheel arches cracking. Good to know it was worms in a can.

Thanks guys, I'll see about the 710 ecu, that sounds like it might be the way forward. I have absolutely no idea where to start with mapping an ecu, so if I can get one from omex that will do the job and allow me to have a digital display then I like the sound of that! I'm sure I'll find a buyer for the S2000 ecu. And yes its very exciting knowing that the engine is on its way. It looks lile it is in good shape and that all the important bits are there.

Please note that you can get your tickets online or by cheque in the post to me using the form enclosed with your last magazine. Alan France is the first one I have received for him and his better half. Get booking guys and gals!

As for space, build a wooden trolley at a height to suit you and fit heavy duty castors. That way you can move the whole Shabang forwards/backwards/sideways easily in your confined garage.

One way around the part finding game, is to find out what model/year car the part was originally fitted. Look up on ECP for that car and year and Bobs yer uncle, the list of available parts is listed. For my C20XE engine I search for Vauxhall Calibra 2.0 petrol 1991, works a treat.

Happy Birthdat Q

I’ve sorted the online ordering https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/store/category/6-wscc-speed-series/

Depending on where abouts in the Cotswolds you are thinking of, there is a classic car show at the GWSR railway station at Toddington that a couple of us will be attending. Might give you somewhere aim for if you wanted.

If weather is good I'll tag along, meeting point is only up the road from me, however I've got to be back for 1PM so wont be carrying on to the Cotswolds unfortunately.

Is that good or bad?

Cheers guys. I must say i have been on various forums over the years and i am mighty impressed by the speed and knowlage of you all. Normally elsewhere you get differant opinions but not here. Thanks These days when you go to an auto store they want a registration to order parts, ive tried on line with Eurocarparts and parts couldnt be electronically found. So for example if i go into Halfords (not that i wouldBTW) and ask for sierra 4x4 rear pads and MK3/4 Escort non vented discs you dont hit a brick wall?

Hi, Looks like the same as you, Seiw with 15x7 and 195x50 Toyo's. I agree with your view on over wide tyres. I had a Fiat Coupe a few years back handled badely and tramlined , when went to manufactures spec it was transformed.

As Dave said - a bit of trial and error trying out other owners known size wheels/tyres combinations can help. A good project 'tyre kicking' exercise for a club meet. Mines a factory built yr2000 SEiW, and came from factory with et35 15" 6.5 and toyo 195*50. The last owner had the ride height far too low also, which once set correctly 'for this individual Westie' made a heap of difference with better handling. I now run et35 15" 7.0 with toyo 195*50 which actually have slightly less but still plenty of clearance, but have also run et24 13" 7.0 with 185*60 Avons without issue. You don't say what tyres your running, and that can also impact - tbh imo many owners run far wider tyres than necessary for a road going Westfield to the possible detriment of clearance and handling.

Do you want me to add it to the store @terry everall @John Williams - WSCC Competition Secretary ?

Agree with Stu. rear disks are Escort my 3/4 non vented FRONTS. Calipers look like Sierra rears. (Westfield have used Sierra rear calipers for decades, replacing them with mk4(?) Golf rears at some point in the mid to late 2000’s. The Golf calipers usually have rows of cooling fins cast in though, so don’t look like yours. A very small number of cars have Discovery calipers, but they’re rare). At the front, disks are Cortina my 3/4/5 unvented. (Normally, a small number of owners go vented, but they’re usually part of aftermarket “big brake” kits. Calipers are known as M16’s, they’re a Ford caliper that was common across lots of cars back in the day. They were fitted to Cortina my 3/4/5 models though.

Another job for the winter is to stop the water coming up under the sidescreens (doors). Despite having mudflaps, bubble-doors and adjusting the door strap to bring the door edge tightly against the body, I’m still getting a wet elbow in decent rain. I’ve seen a rubber weather-strip used on Rab (McWestie)’s car so will experiment with that. It’ll stick to the body just off the edge of the door and hopefully prevent water being wind-forced under it. The trick is going to be putting a curve in the strip to match the shape of the leading-to-under edge of the door, and making it all look like a factory option. We always use the doors when roof-less, so the strip shouldn’t be too obvious.

@AdgeC it's not long, I think the guy down south that I visited said that he got his kit about 2 or 3 weeks after ordering. The factory here in Perth imports the chassis from the UK and makes some minor mods to make sure that they pass our regulations, and then the rest of the kit is supplied from stock on hand. I'm a while away yet from being able to order the kit though, I need to sort out a bigger shed to build it in first. Looks like the biggest shed I will be able to have is 5x2.2 metres. I'm just worried that it might be a bit narrow, but hopefully I can make it work. I've seen a few of the time lapse videos on youtube of other peoples builds and they look like they have managed with fairly small garages.

@BugMan time to man up and get your waterproofs and thermals out Heater is very effective at keeping legs warm. Keep over 40mph and you'll stay dry. Towns are a pain though. Enjoy.

I'm with Brad here...... Having started with a full hood myself then being forced to move to half hood due to fitment of an MSA rop. The full hood was far better at keeping me dry and warm during the colder months, and I had very minimal issues of misting due to liberal use of RainEx & RainX Anti Fog. Misting up most likely to occur in more humid conditions and it helps if there is ambient air flow into cockpit, something DaveE has successfully solved with air to heater reroute. It was really great to be able to 'slot' into the Westfield in minimal clothing and slope out the other end of the journey dry. I didn't use the pram frame with my hood, but fabricated a single bar which attached to the mounting points in front of the rop hoop. The 1/2 Hood is very good and I prefer it in warmer times for dealing with odd showers. In prolonged rain/heavy showers, I still have to wear waterproofs due to blow back of water into cockpit from sides and rear. Sometimes getting out with wet road grime over head and back of neck. As Dave E said everyone's works differently so preferences vary on this and use to which Westie is put. Airflow is effected by all sorts of things - exhaust side/size, door/deflector type/shape, rop height, body etc etc which impact on how waters enter or not. If you can pick up a 2nd hand 1/2 hood at right price (Barny's above) to try out and compare, then you could have both to hand depending on weather forecast.

Glad you've got over the power plant hurdle. Any idea on lead time for the kit in your part of the world?

Lets hope the weather brightened up, cos it's crap here this morning

That hood is really nicely taut and smooth, are you sure you want to lose it (and the bows)? I've seen some baggy and ill-fitting ones - this one's a good'un. Has anyone had a half-hood made to suit the full-hood bows - that was going to be one of my winter projects, so that I can still swap-about with the full hood? We use the full hood quite a bit, the heater demister vent keep the screen clear and have got quite slick at entering and exiting the car. I'm also thinking that using the bows would lessen the flapping of a half-hood. I'm also seen someone use a single bow that was a three piece slot-together affair (two uprights and a horizontal) that was slightly higher than the lowish RAC-type bar and a few inches forward, which shortens the distance from the screen to that point - lessening the flapping. That was my other option - make a half-top and full top using one bow, or better still a full-top that unzips to a half-top. As an aside, I have a couple of stiff plastic window blind battens kicking around that I reckon would make good stiffeners for a half-hood, especially slipped into sleeves like a boat sail - pull them out to roll up the top.

Tel’s `Tales CURBOROUGH FIG 8 , AINTREE AND 3 SISTERS 2 LAPPER So here is a roundup of the last 3 events I attended Curborough Fig 8 There were 7 Westfields competing at the popular but very slow 2 lap event and we has=d 2 practice and 2 timed runs. It was good to see Howard Gaskin back out and he had installed another gearbox and hydraulic clutch release in a short space of time since it failed at his last event. In P1 I suddenly experienced an intermittent misfire that happened at high revs (so for men that was all the time) and despite my valiant attempts at changing sensors and checking wiring I could not sure the problem and in the paddock the engine ran perfectly which was very frustrating. I even suspected my Quickshifter was faulty but it was ok. Steve Everall had a sticking throttle cable was was easily cured by easing the route to the throttle bodies. He then suffered a bit of a problem with overheating but that turned out to be the earth wire that had come adrift from the fan so was an easy fix. P2 saw John Loudon putting in a fast time and me still struggling T1 and T2 saw the following results Mathew Haynes 101 points Howard Gaskin 99.41 points Steve Everall 91.06 points Johnn Loudon 101 points Terry Everall 94.1 points Garry Bunn 94.90 points Derek Hodder 94.25 p[oints As you can see by my lack of details I point most of the day under my bonnet as well as cursing and swearing at the car as it misfired on every run. I even left early! After the weekend and a lot of head scratching I diagnosed the problem as a faulty wire connection to the Cam Sensor. Well done to John and Mathew on their big points haul. Aintree Sat 1/9/18 5 Westfields this time comprising me, Steve, John Loudon, Mick Skidmore and Chris Griffiths in his Millington Diamond engined car. We walked the track on Friday night and as well as telling stories about past events involving the Flymo , John’s wheel falling off, Richard Carroll driving down one of the golf course fairways awe found lots of noice golf balls for me to use.IO chad my fingers crossed that my car would run ok after the Curborough frustrations and both John and I were after good points. P1 and P2 saw Chrid Griffiths using his big power and posting the best Westfield times (which he did all day). T1 saw John bang in a great banker by breaking my old record from 2015. Steve was reporting a b=ig vibration in the car but we could not find the problem until we got to 3 sisters ready for the Sunday event. I found a cracked chassis rail behind the diff mounting points which is a common problem! Final times were John Loudon 45.23 secs (101.25 points) Terry Everall 45.95 secs Chris Griffiths 44.49 secs Mick Skidmore 49.94 secs Steve Everall 52.01 secs 3 Sisters 2/9/18 Today I wanted revenge over John as he beat me yesterday and we both needed good points. I also was supposed to be at my granddaughter’s 18th birthday party at 6pm back in York so no pressure then! The day started quite cool with thick cloud but it stayed dry and track conditions were perfect as was our paddock positions on the nice tarmac of the pits. 7 Westfields put-on a great display against all the other cars and Lotus 7 cars. P1 and Steve was still getting bad vibrations but I was on a mission and broke the class record straight away even though I was using my old practice tyres. The day went quite quickly despite a single seater visiting a tyre wall and another single seater blowing its engine. John and I went even quicker in P2 and several others were blowing away the records. After T1 Steve and I packed up and left so I could get to the important party but the final scores were as follows Terry Everall 72.28 secs ( 3rd fastest overall) John Loudon 72.40 secs ( 4th fastest overall) Garry Bunn 73.11 secs ( 5th fastest overall) Howard Gaskin 76.27 secs ( 8th tastes overall) Mick Skidmore 77.46 secs Richard Houlgate 79.74 secs Steve Everall 83.21 secs (affected by chassis vibration) All in all a good showing by the speed series guys despite some technical gremlins and 4 people beat there target times. Terry Everall Class G competitor

Mighty car mods boys did a haltech ecu on an s2000 didn't they ? It had a harness adaptor too.not certain if it's a 100% solution as a westie doesn't need all wires but you easily ask I expect Pretty sure that is Australian ?

Hi all, The calculations have had to be redone as Stu Hill has honesly come foreward to inform us he was running the wrong tyres for Class A which means he won't score any points for this event. Thanks Stu New Results can be found here. Loton (R28) - Saturday results Loton (R29) - Sunday results (wet) Tiggs

The Honda ecu has been made to work in kits, but it's a hell of a compromise, as Ian said, you're stuck with all its sensors etc, then you have all the emissions controls stuff, there are ways round that for some things, faffing around with resistors and stuff, but you still may find the system throws error codes every so often. The immobiliser also requires use of the ignition key, (gets taped up behind the dad, by those doing these sort of conversions), and the Honda digital dash, which doesn't suit the Westfield that well, and is also not configurable. The final straw though, is that unless it's a later ecu system capable of runnin with Hondata or similar, the OEM Honda ecu is effectively unmappable/tweakable. The Westfield Mega S2000 runs a very different engine map and VTEC changeover settings to the original S2000 car, as it's so much lighter. (We go into VTEC mode at 4500 rpm, way lower than the Honda S2000 does) The Omex 630 is a great plug and play solution, but it's Omex's production car ecu, sold to small volume car and bike manufacturers. As such, it is very locked down, normally there is no user access to it at all, although Omex have allowed us Westfield owners limited access to the main maps required for tuning an engine, as Ian said, neat stuff like CAN Bus data outputs are off the table, currently. I don't know what your local ecu options are other the Motec you mentioned, (who are an Australian company, aren't they?) Over here, we have the likes of DTA, Emerald etc who do fully unlocked ecu's, with other features. That said, I know at least one Westfield S2000 kit that the factory has sold that had an Omex 710 ecu in place of the 630. The 719 does have serial dat out, via CAN Bus, to connect to a digital dash. I presume, Omex are able to supply a tweaked version of the 630 map to go on the 710, they're a good co pansy like that. And of course, the premade loom could be supplied 710 compatible! Fantastic to hear your engine will be with you soon, it's such a great milestone when you have that first, big piece of the puzzle.

Charity track day for sick kids, my car looks like a toy among the others

The Omex 630 supplied with the kit is plug and play, however as stated above basic features such as serial data which are available on a standard Omex 600 aren't unlocked. If you go with another ECU, you will have to fathom out the wiring and then get it mapped. You can't use the Honda ECU as you'll need all the Honda vehicle sensors, imobiliser, air con etc to work in conjunction with it. I'm not aware of anyone who's successfully achieved this in a kit car!

he meant, I think, the earlier style kit bodywork compared to ZK, not the FW. With Kit bodywork, while it looks just like the ZK bodywork, there are subtle differences, and the nose, bonnet and scuttle in particular are all a slightly different design and different size to the later ZK type.

I can't fully comment on the direct difference between half and full hood but can comment on the half hood, as it's all I've got and I've no intention of getting a full hood. I've used the half hood in a variety of weather conditions and it's been excellent. I've used it with both wind deflectors and doors, while it offers good protection with wind deflectors it won't keep you fully dry with my right side slowly getting damp. Generally when I've used it like this it been as an emergency so to a degree I've been a little damp to start as I've had to put it up in the rain but at least it's very quick to put on and in general it's always with me. When used with doors it does a good job of keeping the rain out in the very wettest of conditions you can feel some dampness around the neck area but nothing to bad and having the back open does keep air flowing through the cabin. I used it last while traveling 60 miles or so on a very wet Sunday to travel up to Outlon Park for the gold cup with no problems at all both my passenger and I were fine and arrived dry and warm (with the half hood and doors on the heater is far more effective in keeping the cabin hot) what I realize now is that the open rear may not be an issue when moving but it can be when stationary, depending on the wind direction. so I now need to get a shower cap. The half hood and quite often doors are also very useful when travelling long distances at high speed on motorways or dual carriageways, as they stop the buffeting, turning what can be quite a trying journey in to one that's no bother at all.

@Mark (smokey mow) is correct. I transferred a "T" reg onto my "M" reg on the westy. The car was registered in 2012, so in DVLA logic although the car carried an age related plate (1994) the fact it was registered in 2012 meant that I was allowed to put a plate on it as long as it did not make it look younger than 2012. When I took the plate back off at sale, I got the original plate back that the westy was registered under, which was different to the donor vehicle but from the same year

This was two years ago, but I love it,thanks Marcus.

Today’s snap

Hard braking at Bedford Autodrome the other month

Can’t make this gents, will be looking after kids as Jo is away! (Oscar rugby training clash too) Sorry, a good run out would’ve been great. Andy