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Showing content with the highest reputation on 28/02/14 in all areas

  1. Didn't mean to... went to get some milk, thought take the Westy (no doors no roof no heater) between showers only be 5 minutes... Erm after a half hours getting distracted driving down country lanes (still no milk!) the heavens opened - still loved it!!! Came back cold wet but very happy!! SORNing is for wimps!! Oh and had to go out in the tintop to get the milk!
    4 points
  2. That Duratec certainly has been sold, to meeeeeeeeeee! :d :d :d :d
    2 points
  3. At our recent South East AO meeting we discussed getting the locals from multi areas together again for another car limits day - always a good sociable day Well now's your chance - I have booked in on the date above Get yourself booked in chaps and let's try and get a good gathering of us there http://www.carlimits.com/script/viewEvents.php?type=airfieldactivity&month=20140601
    1 point
  4. Car Data sheets are available for download here. It is a Word 97 / 2003 document which can be opened in just about any text editor. Please try and keep to the layout and style. The bullet points are in a table to preserve standard layout, you should overwrite each bullet with your own spec adding or removing as you see fit. If it all goes to dangler, eMail me and I'll try to help. There will be an opportunity to create, print and laminate this on the day should you need to but I suggest you create your own if you can. PS: Volunteer show helpers urgently needed! Please click here and sign up today!
    1 point
  5. I have bought the yellow one! But I know that 2000 SEi Duratec 'should' be sold today as well. Full WSCC Membership and appropriate car photos within the next week hopefully.
    1 point
  6. Point well made but at least I'll not have to recreate the template every year...
    1 point
  7. I'll check the receipts I get (on whatever car I buy) and try to continue to follow suit. I'm not going to keep fuel receipts tho! I have seen some people do that tho which seems a bit OTT. It is a VDO Gauge, the pictures I took aren't that clear so couldn't see that. Sounds like I am prepped now - just waiting to hear from the garage.
    1 point
  8. Says 2007 under the avatar and it does sound like a bargain! Is it a Type 9 gearbox or an MT75? I didn't think the factory were fitting Type 9's then.
    1 point
  9. I don't know about LS-7 engines, but Flyin' Miata in Colorado installs LS-6 Corvette engines in MX5s. So if an MX-5 engine fits in a Westie, and an LS-6 engine fits in an MX5, then............................... it might fit. You might try contacting Flyin' Miata, as they are also the official builder support for MX5 engined Westfields in the U.S. Bill and Keith are both very knowledgeable.
    1 point
  10. Maybe the factory should give a years free membership to wscc with every new kit sold Just think of all the time they would save on tech questions This club and it's members have to be the factories greatest asset when it comes to spreading the word Could be good for the club too
    1 point
  11. Welcome to the club Brian, I'm sure Nic and the others will make you most welcome.
    1 point
  12. Ok so now onto the pistons and rods. In this case I am using SBD supplied steel rods and slipper piston kit. So the rods come individually wrapped and at present come with no markings on them. In future I believe they may come laser etched. The important thing is not to mark them with anything that might introduce stress into the rods. So I use a paint marker and put lines 1 4 onto one end of the rods so that not only is the rod identified, but also the cap will be maintained the right way around which is critical. In addition during this stage I also put the rods in a soft jaw vice and undo the fasteners as this are done up very tight initially. I also put an extra mark on the end of the cap with the paint pen. A sharpie marker also works well. next taking the pistons I fit the rings to them following the instructions. Marking on the top ring should be face up and the oil ring is made of space that must be put in place first with the oils scrapers added each side. I space the ring gaps 180 degrees apart from each other. Then fit the piston onto the rod securing the gudgeon pin with the C clips and checking they are seated properly in the groove. For clarity I ensure that the rod markings are on the same side of the piston. The piston face has different cut outs for inlet (large) and exhaust (smaller) so I always put the piston on the rod the same way around to make checking and inspection simpler. Now fit each piston to the block in the right order for the rod markings. Also pay attention to make sure the inlet pockets are on the inlet side of the engine. Different people use different techniques to compress the rings into the block. The only time I have ever broke a ring is using a compression tester, so I work the ring into position using a pair of plastic pocking sticks while easing the piston into place manually. Many will hate this idea - but its always worked very well for me. Once they are all in position then turn the block over and unscrew the main cap bolts and separate the rod end caps and place on the bench. The main bearings can be fitted to the rod and cap, These are then liberally coated in assembly lube and the caps refitted ensuring the right cap is on the right rod and the right way around using the earlier markings. The bolts are then done up finger tight. I do the rod bolts using an ARP stretch gauge. These can be picked up in the US for very little and are the only accurate way to pre-load the bolt. Now normally I fit the crank and rods before the main bearing ladder to give more access to the stretch gauge, but I forgot on this assembly so fitting the stretch gauge is a little tight. The gauge fits in the head of the rod bolt and on a small indent on the bottom of the bolt. It can then be zero''d while the bolt is not tight. I then usually tighten the bolt in sequenced torque settings and re-measure. If the main ladder is left out till after this stage then a good quality ring spanner can be fitted which lets you tighten wilt measuring the stretch. A stretch of 6-7 thou is required for the bolts I am using. In addition to the above I measure accurately the length of each fitted bolt and the location. This isn't so I can determine their re-use or not, but rather so that on tear down I can check for any additional stretch in the bolts. Once this is complete I turn the engine over a few times to check all is ok. Next.... Head build up.
    1 point
  13. I've finally got round to finishing this Photobucket isn't quite playing ball as I can't upload anything over 1Mb which would then enable me to upload them in a format that would allow you to edit them for colouring yourselves Anyhow here's the finshed result If anyone fancies making their own, I've produced a few in the most common standard Westfield colours, if you'd like a different colour combination of nose or arches then post up and I'll see what I can do for you enjoy Post Office Red Orange Lime Green Electric Blue Crimson Cream Chrome Yellow Chrome Yellow with Black Nose and Arches Burgandy British Racing Green British Racing Green with Yellow Nose Baby Blue
    1 point
  14. Sorry if I'm being thick but why Stoneliegh organisers? Or do you mean the organisers for the club stand at Stoneleigh.
    1 point
  15. I would have thought a few bob could be put into the clubs coffers by selling them for £5.99 each. I'm sure it wouldn't take long to write up an instruction sheet to go with it.
    1 point
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