KugaWestie Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 are you suppose to use the castle nut from the Mazda on the front lower ball joint? I'm sure i.e. saw Dino use a locknut but I don't seem to have anything the right size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Yes you want a castle nut and split pin on the lower ball joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 note to self - don't be so keen with the grease when fiitting the rhs ball joint boot lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 feel I've asked a lot of questions in the last couple of days I've dropped in the diff and have started on the rear shocks and wishbones. After fitting the diff brackets to the upper wishbone bracket there seems to be a fairly sizable gap between the diff bracket and the upper shock mount. The manual doesn't call for any washers to be used but can just about see one in the picture in the manual. Damn they are carp black and white photos Putting a bolt through and tightening up would put too much stain on things I think as even with the wishbone bolts only nipped up, there is very little movement in the diff bracket. The headlight bracket spacers I didn't use seem a lovely fit so I may go with that but wanted to run it past you guys whom now faaarrrrr more than I do. Here's a picture of this arrangement: I've done : bolt (longer than they state though), washer, shock bracket, two washers (as per manual), shock, shock bracket, spacer, diff bracket, washer and finally a nut. The shock slants every so slightly forward which makes me wonder that the shock bracket may not be in the correct place. But I thought they were jigged so that shouldn't be the case. Also given the gap described above. The picture may not show the slant very well but here goes: thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Dastardly Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Can't help much but can say that on my build the damping adjusters were on the inside. This might not be the case with a mazda build though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Can't help much but can say that on my build the damping adjusters were on the inside. This might not be the case with a mazda build though? manual says to face outwards and it would hit the wishbone if it were the other way around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 ^^^I agree^^^, Turn the shocks around so the adjusters can be adjusted without removing the wheels, unless Sir Mark says they have to go that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 The lean on the shock is normal for an SDV. On the modular build kits the wheel rarely actually sits central in the wheelarch, however for the SDV westfield appear to have addressed this, but at the slight expense of the shock angle. It's nothing to worry about as the slight missalignment will be taken up in the bush. The position of the top shock bracket looks fine, but i know a few people have had issues with the tollerance on the fabrication of the diff frames, and had got westfield to send replacements. I wouldnt accept those as their position will cause issues fitting the boot box at a later date. I've got a spare pair of diff frames here if you fancy a drive across essex one night and want to compare measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 your diff bracket does seem to lean forward a bit more than mine - let me go nip in up and see if it pull over. hang on a mo............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 ^^^I agree^^^, Turn the shocks around so the adjusters can be adjusted without removing the wheels, unless Sir Mark says they have to go that way. They wont fit the other way around, the adjuster hits the top of the wishbone when at full drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 I'd better shut up then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 I had to fit my wishbone brackets with pry bars, welcome to the club Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 I'd better shut up then It's a quirk of the SDV Bernie. The rear shocks are mounted to the wishbone not the upright as with the modular build kits and also the camber and rear toe is all done via adjustment on the lower wishbone so there's a lot more bracing incorporated into the the upper wishbone to keep everything straight etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 OK. I tightened it up and it pulled in. there was a small gap between the diff bracket and the right hand upper wishbone bracket. That closed up when tightened also look alright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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