Mark (smokey mow) Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I'm intrigued as to how much movement there will be for the gearbox/prop so want a little play once it's all fitted. A lot more than I'd expect to be normally, the standard bobbin mounts are far to soft. There's several of us that have had problems, but this works as a fix. http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/74428-diff-noise-under-extreme-cornering/page__view__findpost__p__739706 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Good video... that is a fair amount of movement. I might try and source some of those RS mounts towards the end of the build. AND chop those bolts down. I've got a set of luggage scales so I might measure how much movement there is with 20kg of sideways force, then again once the new mounts are fitted. Assuming 20kg is enough to move it at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Looking good Dommo - I like your driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Started lots of jobs this week, and managed to finish a few of them today. First up, drilling the passenger engine mount. A bit tricky, you need to ensure you don't drill into one of the chassis tubes underneath the plate, and indeed leave enough space for a washer. Got there in the end! The engine is now all bolted in, just the gearbox holes to drill. I paid some attention to the drivers footwell area, chopping 8mm from the stud on the clutch master cylinder and a couple of mm off the brake. This meant the pedals would go back a bit further and has transformed my opinion of the seats. Just this small adjustment and they've gone from odd, to really comfortable. I also drilled the hole for the steering column. Rather than follow the positioning the manual states, I instead studied a later photo where it showed they'd made some 'adjustments'. I don't think I'm spot on, but I'm close! I'll wait until I've decided on the final position for the upper column before sending the middle one off for adjustment. I've already admitted defeat in that I won't be using the Mazda stalks as I wouldn't be able to get at the ignition switch. OCD will soon kick in and the clutch pedal will be adjusted slightly I'm sure! The washer bottle has been fitted to the passenger bulkhead, with the bolt heads being inside the footwell to keep intrusion as low as possible. The cooling system has been the main theme though. I started test fitting the coolant reroute parts sourced from this very forum. SmokeyMow's silicone hoses, and TIGBrother's aluminium handiwork. This of course necessitated the radiator being attached which wasn't too difficult. There's a kinked 90 degree hose from the back to get it up and over the manifold. I had to take the dipstick off it's original mounting on the gearbox to get this to fit, so will have to form a new bracket for that. The first of the aluminium pipes goes over the exhaust manifold, then there's a dogleg and a shorter aluminium pipe to the radiator. I need to source a coupling hose to attach this. I could of course use one of the many hoses I've already got, but I want it orange! Another dogleg is fitted to the radiator outlet, but it's tight up against the chassis. No way around that unfortunately, I'll have to find some way of protecting it. The original thermostat housing is blanked off, with a bleed screw added to the top. I've made a list of what pipework I need to finish it off (another short aluminium length, two 90 degree bends and some 8mm hose) so will get that ordered next week. As a final small job, I fitted the horns using rivnuts. So jobs still to finish are the rear fuel hoses - need some more hose clips and to fit some convoluted hosing. The coolant pipework, obviously, and the gearbox mounting. Jobs to start next week are measuring the length of propshaft to get that shortened, and, ominously, wiring looms. dangler ups this week include stripping the thread on the clutch hose banjo bolt (it was too long, new slave cylinder bought!) and having to replace a brake calliper at the rear. It has siezed on it's mounting and I'd finally gotten around to investigating it. This means, more painting. Arrgh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark (smokey mow) Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Another dogleg is fitted to the radiator outlet, but it's tight up against the chassis. No way around that unfortunately, I'll have to find some way of protecting it. You can shorten the hose which helps as it moves the bend closer to the radiator and away from the tube. IIRC I think I had to do that on mine. Alternatively fit some spacers between the radiator and it's bottom mountings to move the bottom of the radiator foraward. It looks good it orange Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KugaWestie Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I also shortened that hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 The Westfield supplied hose does have a shorter length on one side. I did think about cutting it but I'm reluctant because, damn it it's a good looking hose! </sissy mode> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLiNK Motorsport Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Dom, in the above pic the radiator is 'solidly bolted' to the bottom chassis bracket, really you don't want this as vibrations through the chassis can cause problems with the rad leaking. Get some small exhaust rubber bobbins and mount it with these; you can get them so they have an M6 stud on each end - one end screws into the rad mount and the other passes through the chassis bracket and bolts up. This will be better for the longevity of your Radiator and make the hose fitment easier. Cutting silicone hoses is easy; mark where you want to cut with a felt tip marker, wrap some masking tape round the hose then use the edge of this tape as your 'cutting line' . Cut with a new blade in a stanley knife. The 'overflow' on the Radiator is still open; I'm not sure if the MX5 cooling system uses this port (Mark?) but most just tap it for an M5 bolt and insert a bolt liberally covered in silicone. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Slipping a hose clip over the pipe first and using that as a hard edge to cut up to helps too. I've also found using, (carefully), one of those knifes with the long blades in snap off sections gives you a nice long even cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 And the WSCC membership proves its worth once again. Small rubbers (snigger) will space the radiator away a touch as well. I've been cutting the fuel hoses with a hacksaw but I'll grab a blade like Gadgetman mentions on the way home from work. With regards to the radiator overflow, I think this goes up to top of the header tank. I'm think people have had issues with it, or the pipe from it rubbing against the nose cone too. With the FW front end, I guess I'll have to wait and see if that applies to me. Would have thought the nose cone would be the same dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 If you have access, RS a good source of the rubber mounting bobbins, plenty of choice. They do some with nice long mounting studs that can be trimmed to suit perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 I don't have an account with RS, but a couple of these bad boys should suffice? http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Cotton_Reel_Rubber_Mount_20mm_Dia_x_15mm_COT1 Can always trim the studs down if they're too long (manual said 16mm bolts). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Looks spot on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIG Brother Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Dom thought you all ready had the short section of ally hose to finish it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dommo Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 The one with the two feeds coming off? Yeah I've got that, it's just a pipe from the dogleg at the bottom of the radiator to the 90 degree after said pipe I need, which I ordered tonight along with the rest of the silicone hoses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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