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Martin Keene

Trillogy / Savage Hazard Switch Wiring Guide

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Martin Keene

Firstly, I cannot take credit for this solution. That lies with 'pete g' and 'gadrego', but as the solution is in a number of pieces across several thread's I thought I would bring it all together in one place.

These instructions are designed to replace the standard Westfield Hazard switch like this:

10429.jpeg

With a Trillogy / Savage switch like this:

10430.jpeg

On the back of the Westfield switch there will be the following wiring:

1) LH Indicator Feed - Light Green With Red Stripe

2) RH Indicator Feed - Dark Green With White Stripe

3) Flasher Unit Feed for 1 & 2 - Light Green With Brown Stripe

4) Feed to Flasher Unit - Light Green With Pink Stripe

5) Permenant Live Feed - Purple

6) Ignition Live Feed - Green

7) Earth - Black. This is for the illumination of the standard switch only and can be discarded.

On the back of the Trillogy / Savage switch there is a contact block with 6 connectors, which are 2 x Common, 2 x Normally Open and 2 x Normally Closed. These are the contacts for the Hazard Circuit.

There is also two connections to the switch itself. The two on the switch itself are for the illumination only and need connecting to the instrumention illumination circuit, which is a Red With Orange Stripe wire.

Wiring the actual contact block for the Hazards is as follows:

First Set of Contacts:

Pin 1) Light Green With Pink Stripe - Feed to Flasher Unit

Pin 2) Purple - Permenant Live Feed

Pin 3) Green - Ignition Live Feed

Second Set of Contacts:

Pin 1) Light Green With Brown Stripe - Feed From Flasher Unit

Pin 2) Light Green With Red Stripe & Dark Green With White Stripe (LH Indicator Feed &  RH Indicator Feed) See Note 1.

Pin 3) Not Used

NOTE 1: Light Green With Red Stripe and Dark Green With White Stripe need to be joined together and two diodes fitted in line before they are joined to stop any current back feed.

The diodes need to be wired to allow current to flow away from the switch. So the Anode will be connected to the switch and the Cathode, marked with the stripe round the end, will be connected to the wiring loom.

The diodes required a P600A from Maplins and cost £0.53 plus vat each.

NOTE 2: All of the above will work if you have two tell-tale lights. If you only have one tell-tale light you will need another two diodes to stop back feed from the tell-tale light. You'll know if you need another pair because once you've wired it all up, you'll indicate left or right and both sides will light up as is if you've used the hazard switch.

NOTE 3: This as been produced as a helpful guide no responsibility is held if you follow these instructions and BBQ your car. If you do not know what you are doing, let a professional do it...

This has been a public service anoucement. No switches were harmed in the making, etc...

:D

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adamnreeves
This solution would be even better if it incorporated using the switch illuminition as the warning light as well. My preference would be that the illumination would be permanently on if the switch is off but when the switch is on then the light would blink. I was doodling all sorts of esoterical ways of doing it last night, I am sure I have missed the obvious? I was using a couple of transistors and resistors and another way was thinking of using an additional relay but stumbling at having it light permanenly when off but flashing when on? I did do A level electronics years and years ago but it was based on computer electronics and if I were to use that knowledge I would end up with a microprocessor controlled version!

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pete g
there nothing stopping you using the switches light to flash.not sure you would want lit all the time and flashing when in operation. these switches are very bright. :D

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adamnreeves
there nothing stopping you using the switches light to flash.not sure you would want lit all the time and flashing when in operation. these switches are very bright. :D

yep, I justed powered one up and see what you mean jeeze. So its not a SVA requirement to be lit? I see that you just link 2 to A to make light only on when switch is on. These switches must have inbuilt resistors? Could install a further resistor of say 390ohms to tone it down a bit, could even install a 10K pot!

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adamnreeves

Wired up the switch LED to a power source and pot and played about with various resistances at 12V I found 1K ohm took the edge off the light. 5K made it quite dim but would be able to seen in the dark. So I think 5K is the best value as this provides enough illumination to be seen. Also wire up the +LED to the source 2 and it will glow at full brightness when switched on (could also insert a 1K resistor!) and you have everything.

So in context of the hazzard function, wire red/orange to A with an inline 5K resistor and a diode and then B to earth. Then link contact  2 of the second set of contacts to A. There you have it.

Comments please.

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Martin Keene
This solution would be even better if it incorporated using the switch illuminition as the warning light as well. My preference would be that the illumination would be permanently on if the switch is off but when the switch is on then the light would blink. I was doodling all sorts of esoterical ways of doing it last night, I am sure I have missed the obvious? I was using a couple of transistors and resistors and another way was thinking of using an additional relay but stumbling at having it light permanenly when off but flashing when on? I did do A level electronics years and years ago but it was based on computer electronics and if I were to use that knowledge I would end up with a microprocessor controlled version!

May be one way of doing it would be to feed a 12 feed from the hazards to one side of the switch, and an ignition feed to the other side, so when it is in the off position the led should earth through the hazard circuit somewhere, but when it is switch on it will flash with the hazards. Ah, s**t no, that don't work because you then have 2 lives...

:suspect:

Christ mate your on your own with that one...

:D

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Martin Keene
there nothing stopping you using the switches light to flash.not sure you would want lit all the time and flashing when in operation. these switches are very bright. :D

yep, I justed powered one up and see what you mean jeeze. So its not a SVA requirement to be lit? I see that you just link 2 to A to make light only on when switch is on. These switches must have inbuilt resistors? Could install a further resistor of say 390ohms to tone it down a bit, could even install a 10K pot!

I'd be stunned if it needs to be illuminated when not in operation for SVA, all the normal cars I have had the hazard switch only flashes when they are on.

If that is the case then you need to take a feed from pin 1, on the second set of contacts, feed from flasher unit, wire that to the light and from there to earth. I think...

If memory serves, the first set of contacts send the ignition live to the flasher unit via n/c, and when the switch is pressed it goes n/o and switches the flasher to permenant live so the hazards work with the ignition off. In n/o the indicator circuits are isolated from the returning feed from the flasher and pressing the switch goes n/o and connects the to the returning permenant live. Something like that.

get the power to the flasher unit regardless of switch position/ignition position, so your indicators work regardless of the switch and the second set of contacts take the feed from the flasher and send it to the indicator sircuit.

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adamnreeves

there nothing stopping you using the switches light to flash.not sure you would want lit all the time and flashing when in operation. these switches are very bright. <!--emo&:D

yep, I justed powered one up and see what you mean jeeze. So its not a SVA requirement to be lit? I see that you just link 2 to A to make light only on when switch is on. These switches must have inbuilt resistors? Could install a further resistor of say 390ohms to tone it down a bit, could even install a 10K pot!

I'd be stunned if it needs to be illuminated when not in operation for SVA, all the normal cars I have had the hazard switch only flashes when they are on.

If that is the case then you need to take a feed from pin 1, on the second set of contacts, feed from flasher unit, wire that to the light and from there to earth. I think...

If memory serves, the first set of contacts send the ignition live to the flasher unit via n/c, and when the switch is pressed it goes n/o and switches the flasher to permenant live so the hazards work with the ignition off. In n/o the indicator circuits are isolated from the returning feed from the flasher and pressing the switch goes n/o and connects the to the returning permenant live. Something like that.

get the power to the flasher unit regardless of switch position/ignition position, so your indicators work regardless of the switch and the second set of contacts take the feed from the flasher and send it to the indicator sircuit.

Feed from pin 1 or pin2 from second contacts yes, Pin 1 probably physically easier though  :)  Edited, actually its got to be pin 2 otherwise it will flash when using indicators as well and we don't want that  :)

I have got some P600A diodes now, how big are these, they look like dams! Checked the specs and the max current rating is 6A. That's quite a bit. Indicators bulbs per side = 2 * 5w = 10w which is less than 1A at 13.8v! I am thinking about using 1N5400 series of diodes which are rated at 3A but physically much smaller (DO201 case).

Not sure how the flasher unit works but if it is anything like a relay then I actually do not need an additional diode like I thought.

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Martin Keene

I didn't bother doing that maths on the diodes, I just followed the recommendation from ones of the chaps mentioned in the first post.

FWIW, I don't think you won't anything to danity though, they aren't supported with a nice PCB in a car...

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adamnreeves

I didn't bother doing that maths on the diodes, I just followed the recommendation from ones of the chaps mentioned in the first post.

FWIW, I don't think you won't anything to danity though, they aren't supported with a nice PCB in a car...

Actually I forgot that they are 3 indicators per side not 2! I also actually tested the current drawn on the front indicators tonight and at 12V it was 1.3A so assuming 3 X 1.3A then 3A would not be quite enough so I used used the P600A. However as I bought some I used one of the smaller ones between the RedOrange illumination feed and Pin 2.

I have tonight made a small loom for this and tested with a power supply, the said switch and a breadboard and it works exactly how I wanted, infact no, better  :D  :D

Img_2666.jpg

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Tigger
Actually I forgot that they are 3 indicators per side not 2!

Try 4 Adam, you forgot the warning lamps but hey, I'm just being picky :D

Tiggs

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adamnreeves
Actually I forgot that they are 3 indicators per side not 2!

Try 4 Adam, you forgot the warning lamps but hey, I'm just being picky :D

Tiggs

Well yes and no, not incandescent on mine, Dash2 so current will probably by 20milliamps! But you're right! damn!

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Martin Keene
I didn't bother doing that maths on the diodes, I just followed the recommendation from ones of the chaps mentioned in the first post.

FWIW, I don't think you won't anything to danity though, they aren't supported with a nice PCB in a car...

Actually I forgot that they are 3 indicators per side not 2! I also actually tested the current drawn on the front indicators tonight and at 12V it was 1.3A so assuming 3 X 1.3A then 3A would not be quite enough so I used used the P600A. However as I bought some I used one of the smaller ones between the RedOrange illumination feed and Pin 2.

I have tonight made a small loom for this and tested with a power supply, the said switch and a breadboard and it works exactly how I wanted, infact no, better  :D  :D

Img_2666.jpg

So you've got the switch to flash when the hazards are on, negating the need for the seperate light? Might be worth adding the instructions for that as well. I know there sort of on here already, but they're a bit messy.

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adamnreeves

Martin,

Yes that's right no need for seperate lamp, neat eh? Anyway once I have installed I intend to fully document and might even do a youtube video of the switch in action. I shall post it all back here.

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Martin Keene
Very cool... Don't have a need for it myself, but useful for all others.

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